Which are the *best* NRF24L01+ modules?
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@NeverDie I already bought these ~20 radios from 5 different dealers...
@AWI I am not sure, therefore I am asking here. But what more can I do? I am using a default sketch with only this modification:#define MY_NODE_ID 70 #define MY_PARENT_NODE_ID 0 #define MY_REPEATER_FEATURE falseThe node is useable, so it sends reed contact changes to the mqttClientGateway which sends it to my raspi. Is the static method preventing the node from deep sleep?
I live in northern germany. Thx for the offer. But I dont really believe, that all radios are faulty by now.
@rollercontainer
I still suspect either a configuration or a measurement error. I suggest you photograph in detail everything you're doing and post it. If you're overlooking something, maybe somebody will spot it. Otherwise, there's just not much to go on. -
I setup a new Arduino IDE 1.6.9 portable with MySensors 1.5 and flashed a standard 8MHz bootloader with BOD off.
Idle current is nearly unmessureable by my MM, showing only 0,01 mA at 60,00 mA range.
Next step is to get a 1MHz bootloader to work with low current.Thx for your words, guys.
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flashed the 1MHz Optiboot again, compiled the sketch and loaded it up. Idle current is staying under 0,01mA. So, looks like the 2.0.0beta libs are "guilty".
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flashed the 1MHz Optiboot again, compiled the sketch and loaded it up. Idle current is staying under 0,01mA. So, looks like the 2.0.0beta libs are "guilty".
@rollercontainer Interesting...with 2.0b I have 6uA consumption in a sleep mode on Pro Mini + nrf24l01+
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hi.
there is no interest to use 1mhz during sleep mode because in this mode clock is stopped. No matter the freq, if you have no problem in your circuit and software is well configured and bod disabled, just the atmel in standalone is consuming 140nA in deep sleep.
1mhz can be helpful during active mode but it reacts slower, wake up slower, and can cause trouble for communication like serial... and sometimes it can be less effective vs keeping internal rc.
But 1mhz is useful, used in certain ways of course, i use it too ;) -
it is working with lower voltages at 1mhz, thats the reason I use it on a 2 AA node.
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But @scalz is saying that only in sleep mode the frequency does not matter, it has no effect on the power consumption. However, it will effect your power consumption while the MCU is awake, but there're discussions regarding the length of time its awake some times means that it uses less power if using a higher frequency due to it performing its tasks quicker and then returning to sleep.
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So, I guess the question is whether waking up at 8mhz on 1.8v will be a problem or not. It's out of spec according to the datasheet. I'd certainly much prefer to wake-up the atmega328p at 8mhz than 4mhz or 1mhz, because then the wake-up time can be very, very short (<4us). No other setting that I know of comes anywhere close to 4us.
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it is working with lower voltages at 1mhz, thats the reason I use it on a 2 AA node.
@rollercontainer I have 8Mhz working below 1.8V. The problem is that below 1.9V, it is unstable as the radio may be working intermittently. I think @GertSanders reported his node running down to 1.6V at 8Mhz. In any case, I do not think one has to run 1Mhz as power saving compare to 8Mhz is not massive and clock is not working - the latter is by far important for my needs.
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it is working with lower voltages at 1mhz, thats the reason I use it on a 2 AA node.
I have found that the NRF24L01+ PA LNA radios I have, have 100% packet loss and will not sleep if driven with voltages over 3.0v I have dropped the supply to 2.7v and now have minimal packet loss and the radios will sleep at all power level settings.
Current draw is 4.7uA including 328P + RTC when asleep as measured with a uCurrent Gold.
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I have found that the NRF24L01+ PA LNA radios I have, have 100% packet loss and will not sleep if driven with voltages over 3.0v I have dropped the supply to 2.7v and now have minimal packet loss and the radios will sleep at all power level settings.
Current draw is 4.7uA including 328P + RTC when asleep as measured with a uCurrent Gold.
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@doug That is an interesting observation. Was there a specific reason to test this? Have you tried other voltages also?
I was building a boost converter with one of these Texas TPS61097A-33DBVT the NRF I was using on battery didn't work with the boost CCT. I tried with 4-5 of these modules all from the same supplier and none of them worked. My scope showed they were transmitting and the uGold was showing sleep mode was not happening. When connected to an adjustable converter I notice that if I wound down the voltage under 3.0v they would spark into life. Its the same with all the NRF PA LNA modules I tried.
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I bought my first NRF24L01+ modules from cg market and I created some simple nodes (temp/hum and binary switch) using 3V coin battery, and they are up since last January. Than, I'm wondering why :unamused:, I bought other modules from another seller and I got a lot of problem: the binary switch (same of the other one in software and hardware) fails many times in sending communications to the gateway and after just 1 month I had to replace the battery; another node cannot even communicate at all if I move it in another room different from the gateway (of course I tried different values of decoupling-capacitors) :disappointed:
I have to get new modules :cry: -
I have found that the NRF24L01+ PA LNA radios I have, have 100% packet loss and will not sleep if driven with voltages over 3.0v I have dropped the supply to 2.7v and now have minimal packet loss and the radios will sleep at all power level settings.
Current draw is 4.7uA including 328P + RTC when asleep as measured with a uCurrent Gold.
@doug said:
I have found that the NRF24L01+ PA LNA radios I have, have 100% packet loss and will not sleep if driven with voltages over 3.0v I have dropped the supply to 2.7v and now have minimal packet loss and the radios will sleep at all power level settings.
Current draw is 4.7uA including 328P + RTC when asleep as measured with a uCurrent Gold.
Would you please post a photo of what the module looks like? It might offer up some clues.
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@doug I do have the same ones bought at alice from the shop link. I also have issues and basically not functioning. I will try your "fix" and see how it goes. Did you do some shielding?
Cheers,
SJ -
@doug I did some quick tests and I can confim that the modules work better with less voltage. I made best experience with 2.5-2.6V. However they are still much much worse than all others I have and not worth the hassle IMHO.
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@doug I did some quick tests and I can confim that the modules work better with less voltage. I made best experience with 2.5-2.6V. However they are still much much worse than all others I have and not worth the hassle IMHO.
@parachutesj said:
. However they are still much much worse than all others I have and not worth the hassle IMHO.
Which other ones do you have that perform better? It would be very useful to know.
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@doug I do have the same ones bought at alice from the shop link. I also have issues and basically not functioning. I will try your "fix" and see how it goes. Did you do some shielding?
Cheers,
SJ@parachutesj said:
@doug I do have the same ones bought at alice from the shop link. I also have issues and basically not functioning. I will try your "fix" and see how it goes. Did you do some shielding?
Cheers,
SJFWIW, I use these exact ones and I get very good range with them, without additional shielding.
Cheers
Al -
@parachutesj said:
. However they are still much much worse than all others I have and not worth the hassle IMHO.
Which other ones do you have that perform better? It would be very useful to know.
@NeverDie
I have the shielded ones from IC-Station:
http://www.icstation.com/22dbm-100mw-nrf24l01ppalna-wireless-transmission-module-p-4677.htmlBack to the ones discussed here:
When doing the basic test from earlier in this thread I am getting massive packet loss even if the modules are very close together. Ok, maybe it needs to be shielded, power too high etc and tried having them separated with no luck, still massive packet losses. Of course this is no scientific research.Without tweaking, modifications, special antenna orientation the shielded IC-Station ones just worked for me. I am not saying the others don't work, they just perform not in my setup very well.
Also as a comparison, I have some cheep modules from Aliexpress they outperform the ampliefied ones (at least within the house):
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-LOT-NRF24L01-wireless-data-transmission-module-2-4G-the-NRF24L01-upgrade-version/1593276910.html

Those modules look very poor build to be honest but seem to be ok. They came in one single back, some pins bent but nothing which couldn't be fixed. Minor packet losses and antenna orientation seems to be key.
In comparison, I also bought some more expensive ones, which claim to be original:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-Original-Genuine-NRF24L01-Wireless-Module-2-4G-wireless-communication-module-2-54mm-Interface-2/1781618813.html

Those came in a nice protected box and look very well made.
They work, I even think better than the others - but I already blew two of them. Not sure what went wrong :-(Just received some SMD ones which haven't been tested yet.
