@petr-nosek my problem was maily unrealiability. They worked for minutes or weeks and then stopped (or anything in between).
All other nodes work flawless.
Maybe give it a try at next project

If this really solves the problem...would have saved me a lot of headaches. Got rid of all my relay nodes in the meantime.

@karl261 said in BME280 How to use it outdoors:

Now after 2-3 month more outside the sensor seems to be finally dead.

Quite old thread, but wanted to provide an update:
I have a BME280 up and running since about 1 year now. It is in the weather station outside on the roof. It is vented very well but protected from direct exposure to sun, wind and rain. Readings are reliable. What I did is treating the whole board except the sensor chip with this:
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sometimes it is good to write it down...
would it work, if I have the push buttons in series with some resistors on an analog input (to read which button was pressed, different values, based on resistance) and connect it in parallel to digital D2 to send the interrupt?
That should work...

Dears
I know my idea is not really a sensor but as I have quite a few sensor nodes deployed I wanted to make it easy and reuse the framework.

My challenge and I am a bit out of ideas is, I want to build a kind of remote control with multiple push buttons, in theory I have digital pins 2-7 available. This would be ok. However as it should be battery powered, I wanted to put it to sleep. But then a wake-up only works on D2/D3.
Shift registers also do not seem to work, at least what I found out as it would not send the interrupt correctly to wake it up.

The best I came up so far: motion sensor to wake it up and then go to sleep again after a certain time. But then it needs to be picked up and cannot be used when it is laying on a table.

Any thoughts?

cheers,
SJ

@dakipro well WAF is important. Mine complained a lot when things didn't work but as it is quite stable she enjoys it but would never state that

A perfect solution is always very difficult to achieve. However when looking at my office where all blinds are triggered at the same time on any side of the building, it never works well and just annoyes anyone.
Here at home, it works in most cases but you could always tune a bit. That is what I meant with "starting with azimuth and forget about elevation". There are cases in early morning during bright winter days when sun rises there is sun shining and blinding us at the dining room table. temperature difference is too low and it would not react. Two possibilities:
a) manually trigger or
b) build an even more complex rule (which I did).

But these are cosmetics. And one could not predict all cases over 365 days in all possible weather situations.

Regarding dead switch:
I do not have any logic in my actuators. Fullstop!
All comes from openHAB.
First of all I do have one master switch, this kills everything. No actuator can be triggered automatically (sometimes important for WAF).
Second there are certain conditions which cannot be overruled: e.g. if it starts raining, the roof windows close also when the wind speed is above trigger, rollershutters go up. These are mainly in order to prevent damage (except when master switch - rule 1 - is off).

And then the rest could be easily achieved. If done with MySensors, just send an additional fake state back to the controller when you manually trigger something and then check in your rules:

//light goes on
send( myLightSwitch.set(1) );
send( myManualStatus.set(1) );

Then check in your rules if that value for myManualStatus is 1 or 0.

I work for example with my rollershutters like this: when it goes down automatically, it goes to 85%. If it shall go up, I also check if it is at 85% - if not, then someone set it manually and I do not move it. Chances are pretty high, that if it is triggered manually it is not at 85% and rather at 84 or 86 or even something completely different.
But then when sun sets, it overrides again and automatic kicks in again.

@neverdie I am not that smart, just using the library from my controller: the astro binding for openHAB. It returns any time of the day the sun position based on your location. So what I do is basically check for any window* in the house if azimuth is between two values and if true checking in addition if sun is shining and when both are true, the rollershutter will go down. When sun stops shining or the sun has moved away, it will go up again.
Elevation is no big deal in my case, only on the western side in late afternoon during winter months but for a start, I would recommend working with azimuth only.
Also the inputs for down and up should have different values (e.g. going down > 10 degree; going up < 8 degree) otherwise they might constantly go down/up when reaching the peaks.
And to make it more complicated, I also added conditions if someone is present, if it is raining, wind is too strong etc.

Elevation is mainly used to trigger sunrise and sunset events (open in the morning, close in the evening)

*for practical reasons I have groups based on the side of the house, but then doing different things.

@dakipro why bother with individual sensors at the windows? You can calculate the sun position (azimuth and elevation) any time during the day and check if it would be possible for the sun to shine into the room. And in second step you only need to know if sun is shining or it is cloudy. Simplest way is using an online weather service. However I noted that this is not very reliable. My solution is based on MySensors:
It is a weather station with some sensors (rain, temp, pressure). I've started with a light sensor but found it very unreliable also protection from environment is difficult.

So at the end my sun senors is quite simple. One dallas sensor exposed to the sun and a second one in the shade. If the difference is high enough, sun is shining. Depending on your geographical location and preferences values might vary but for me (Zurich, CH) 10 degree celsius seems to be a good value.

either what @gohan said or persist the values in OH

All:
thank you for your contributions. I think I have finally fixed the problem. It was due to the input side from solar and I had overvoltage shutting down my charge control board. This is quite strange as it has been running for a longer period and then stopped. Maybe it altered and at some point the tolerance went down.
Anyhow it is logical: When I had good sun, I measured 6.2V on the input side which seems to be too much for the board - even the solar panels are all rated at 5V.
I added a voltage regulator making sure the solar output is max 5V. Since then it seems to be stable.
Of course this is not optimal as this is causing some loss.
Does anyone have a potentially better solar charger control board for an input of around 4-9 V to charge a 3.7 LiPo?
Currently using those: LiPoCharger AliExpress

Cheers
SJ

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