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  3. 42v LED dimmer

42v LED dimmer

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  • the cosmic gateT Offline
    the cosmic gateT Offline
    the cosmic gate
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    Want to use this circuit ( https://www.mysensors.org/build/dimmer) for dimming the Philips LED we have above the table. But the 230 adapter they use gives an output at 42 V . Whats the easiest way to use this "sensors" with this Philips LED light ?

    There's more than meets the eye

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    • SweebeeS Offline
      SweebeeS Offline
      Sweebee
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      The example you posted uses a irlz44n. According the data sheet it can handle 55v, so that should work. To power the arduino you can look for a stepdown module.

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      • the cosmic gateT Offline
        the cosmic gateT Offline
        the cosmic gate
        wrote on last edited by the cosmic gate
        #3

        But maybe the arduino input on the RAW ports ?
        I think i need some Step Down dc-dc convertor for this

        There's more than meets the eye

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        • sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          @the-cosmic-gate said:

          But maybe the arduino input on the RAW ports ?
          I think i need some Step Down dc-dc convertor for this

          Yes - you do. Ardunio can handle 12v on raw (in best cases - clones can fry).

          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

          the cosmic gateT 1 Reply Last reply
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          • sundberg84S sundberg84

            @the-cosmic-gate said:

            But maybe the arduino input on the RAW ports ?
            I think i need some Step Down dc-dc convertor for this

            Yes - you do. Ardunio can handle 12v on raw (in best cases - clones can fry).

            the cosmic gateT Offline
            the cosmic gateT Offline
            the cosmic gate
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            @sundberg84 said:

            @the-cosmic-gate said:

            But maybe the arduino input on the RAW ports ?
            I think i need some Step Down dc-dc convertor for this

            Yes - you do. Ardunio can handle 12v on raw (in best cases - clones can fry).

            Thnx , thnx the layout would be different. Because the LEDs needs 48v

            There's more than meets the eye

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            • TheoLT Offline
              TheoLT Offline
              TheoL
              Contest Winner
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              I fried a ProMini 3.3V while putting 12V on the raw pin. I suggest you add some power regulator and feed the Arduino with no more than 9V. Better safe than sorry.

              I'm lucky I can still feed the ProMini throught the FDTI pins, but it's not ideally.

              the cosmic gateT 1 Reply Last reply
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              • TheoLT TheoL

                I fried a ProMini 3.3V while putting 12V on the raw pin. I suggest you add some power regulator and feed the Arduino with no more than 9V. Better safe than sorry.

                I'm lucky I can still feed the ProMini throught the FDTI pins, but it's not ideally.

                the cosmic gateT Offline
                the cosmic gateT Offline
                the cosmic gate
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                @TheoL said:

                I fried a ProMini 3.3V while putting 12V on the raw pin. I suggest you add some power regulator and feed the Arduino with no more than 9V. Better safe than sorry.

                I'm lucky I can still feed the ProMini throught the FDTI pins, but it's not ideally.

                aaai frying one would cost you €5 :) i already ordered some power regulators to set the input on this raw ports.
                But the re-think the design a bit

                There's more than meets the eye

                TheoLT 1 Reply Last reply
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                • the cosmic gateT the cosmic gate

                  @TheoL said:

                  I fried a ProMini 3.3V while putting 12V on the raw pin. I suggest you add some power regulator and feed the Arduino with no more than 9V. Better safe than sorry.

                  I'm lucky I can still feed the ProMini throught the FDTI pins, but it's not ideally.

                  aaai frying one would cost you €5 :) i already ordered some power regulators to set the input on this raw ports.
                  But the re-think the design a bit

                  TheoLT Offline
                  TheoLT Offline
                  TheoL
                  Contest Winner
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  @the-cosmic-gate I think I order 5 ProMini's for around 8 dollars. So the damage wasn't too big ;-)

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                  • E Offline
                    E Offline
                    emc2
                    Hardware Contributor
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    I'm in the process of building a 34V LED dimmer (waiting for my dirtypcbs to be delivered). I'm doing a 34V -> 12V (I plan to also control a 12V cpu fan) -> 3.3V

                    I've been using http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/281/dms-78xxsr-47233.pdf (12V version) on my breadboard but 5V and 3.3V versions are also available.
                    These modules are awesome, no heat, very stable, well filtered, available on mouser for ~$9. Usually overpriced on ebay (~$30)
                    Technically the datasheet say it should be able to handle 40V for low currents even up to 45V maximum.
                    If you only power the arduino / radio this step down module at 5 or 3.3V may be a good option for you.

                    Another option is http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Terminal-12V-1A-Switching-Voltage-Regulator-Power-Supply-/251971614470
                    I bought 2 of these to be on my final PCB. Max is supposed to be 40V but it may be worth testing at 42V. Seller is the maker, he is very friendly and should be able to tell you if 42V is fine.

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                    • the cosmic gateT Offline
                      the cosmic gateT Offline
                      the cosmic gate
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #10

                      i just recieved the voltage regulator and tried it without result :(
                      The LED light i;'ve got lphilips InStyle

                      In the spec's i read that i have to use for dimming : phase cutting dimmers , that's something different the PWM i think ;S ?

                      Is there oneother solution i can try / use ?

                      There's more than meets the eye

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                      • B Offline
                        B Offline
                        boozz
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #11

                        @the-cosmic-gate
                        That should be a leading edge (Triac based, relatively cheap) or trailing edge (expensive) dimmer I suppose.

                        a leading edge dimmer is discussed in this thread: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3953/4-channel-ac-dimer/2

                        Is there anyone here that combined a mysensors-sketch with a trailing edge dimmer?

                        BR,

                        Boozz

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