Today I build a basic node for temperature (DS18B20) and analog input. Most of my nodes feature a DS18B20 connection as it only 'costs' a 4k7 resistor and a connector.
PCB is etched.

@mfalkvidd

and a simple 'trick' to allow higher currents if necessary:

A network cable has 8 leads in it. Any spare pair of leads not used for something else (e.g. data....) can be used to increase the current strength of the 5V and return (GND) line.

@hannibal

The purpose of the capacitor (use an elco for this) is to make sure that the voltage remains smooth (no ripple or sudden drops) by buffering a small amount of energy (capacity). From that point of view: the larger the value, the better.
The next question would be if your source is able to supply the current to keep the capacitor filled. From that point of view a small capacitor would be the better choice, but too small would give you too less buffered capacity....

The practicial approach is to test it; I've done that and I found out that a 4.7 uF was good enough. Up to values of 100 uF (never tested with higher values of elco's) worked as well, but these are larger....

Better is worse than 'good enough'

Have fun!

BR,

Boozz

@Reza
just try it and see what happens

@mfalkvidd
I think you’re right. I only had a look at the first image and there the C1 location was not visible as the nrf-module was in front of it.
My bad

@emc2
According to some datasheets a K-type thermocouple would be my first choice. Look here for a table on K-types

a MAX31855 can be used to interface to the arduino. See some explanations here and here.

I haven't read all of the information above, but the datasheet for the MAX31855 tells us that it can be used from -270º up to 700º.

Could be a starting point I think.

Good luck,

Boozz

Thank you both for the contributions.

@mfalkvidd: Thanks a lot for pointing me towards the technique to turn it on /off. This will become very handy in the future for sure.

BR,

Boozz

Ja auch, aber bin Hollaender

@mfalkvidd

I agree that powering the nrf via the uno's onboard 3.3V can be problematic. Unfortunately I experience the same issues with my pro-mini's and here the nrf's are powered via an external 3.3V LDO voltage regulator (MCP1700, TO-92). Now and then a sensor or repeater simply stops.
Cut and paste from Jim Danforth: Hitting reset button makes it reconnect and instantly update.

I've never tested my nrf's (china, ebay) but I guess this could be the source of the problems we're experiencing.

I think it's worth trying the quality meter as discussed in this tread

BR,

Boozz

@kimot @monte
It appears to me as what has been described by @monte is almost completely covered by the Tasmota project: https://github.com/arendst/Tasmota

@alexno Is this (high pressure) injection moulded? What's the material?

@zboblamont
Although I didn't completely analyse your sketsch I remember from some time ago that I ran into problems once I moved the one-wire- pin from 3 to another pin. No idea why, and never actually took the time to troubleshoot this, but when I brought it back to pin 3 all my problems disappeared with the dallas sensors.

Hope it helps.

BR,

Boozz

@kimot said in My experiences with MySensors:

And for "MESH" topology.
Arduino "painlessMesh" library for ESPs exists

WIll have a look at that too in the near future. Thanks for hinting me towards this.

Boozz

@kimot said in My experiences with MySensors:

MySensors is goot for nodes a far away in my garden and for nodes with low energy consumption and fast reaction when wake up.
When MySensors node is sleeping and then wake up, it immediately continues in program flow immediately from the place of "sleep" command.
Wemos, when sleeping an wake ups, reboots and must connect to AP, which takes 8s to 2s when we do some tweakings.

Ok, so if I do not misinterpret your words, it's better / easier to use mySensors for the tasks as specified above and use WEMOS / 8266 for other tasks. Some pretty distinct way of where and how to use it.

Thanks a lot for the info provided. I appreciate that. I will give this a try sooner or later for sure.
Up to now my experience with mySensors is positive. Yes, now and then the radio's give me some troubles, but that's part of it. Still a very inexpensive way to collect data and switch on the lights in my garden house, dim some LED's all over the house and get alarmed once the ground-water reaches a level so I have to watch out my basement isn't flooded.

Thanks

Booz

@rodaman: May I remind you of my questions:

@rodaman
...
However, I'm interested in your Wemos setup.
I've got some questions from which I'm sure you can give me the right quidance:
I guess it used some bandwith in your Wifi network? can I use it similar as mySensors topology or even with mySensors libraries?
Can it be used with batteries (sleep modes and so on) for a long time?

thank you in advance for your values answers,

BR, Boozz

Unfortunately no reaction from your side till today. In the meanwhile I've searched the internet for a ESP8266 or ESP32 mesh network as an alternative for the mySensors network. I cannot find a good working open source (read Arduino based) startpoint, so I'm wondering if you could direct me to a good starting point.

Thanks,

Boozz

@rodaman
Although fully agree with @mickecarlsson and @tbowmo (I have been lucky with really cheap nrf24L01+ modules I think) and have a similar experience as @TheoL (MySensors works fine with nr24L01+ modules) I can state that mySensors is very much alive.

However, I'm interested in your Wemos setup.
I've got some questions from which I'm sure you can give me the right quidance:
I guess it used some bandwith in your Wifi network? can I use it similar as mySensors topology or even with mySensors libraries?
Can it be used with batteries (sleep modes and so on) for a long time?

thank you in advance for your values answers,

BR, Boozz

@pelle84 said in How to get 5v pulse from a water meter:

someone that can help?
i add the sensor manual
its the PR7 version.

I think you need to be a little bit more specific about what PR7 type you bought. I see a multiple of schematics in the manual, and only you know which one to use as you know what device you've bought.
Suggestion: publish the schematic from the manual that corresponds with your device.

Another question: How dit you connect the device to the arduino, and how is it powered (internal battery or via the arduino or via an external power supply). Again, as you're not specific about the device you have, we can't be of help I'm afraid.

Suggestion: draw the schematic or make an image, and publish that.

BR, Boozz

@jimmyjames said in Question: FL5150 LED Dimmer - replace a analog potentiometer with a digital one:

..., the only downside is then you need a power supply for the ESP32 and isolated one and another power supply for the I2C isolator on the FL5150dimmer side as it uses upto 6mA 5vdc and the DAC use 1mA so that is inconvenient.

Have you considered using isolated DC-DC converters? Then you may be able to keep all in the concept of "only 240v wires go in and out".

Will take a look at the video within short

BR, boozz

@jimmyjames said in [Question:

I intend on improving it to a more usable and safer point.

Could you elaborate a bit on the last part, the safety issue; I think you mean that it is not a very safe circuit at the moment: No isolation between 230VAC and the microprocessor part or am I missing something?

BR, boozz