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RGBW LED strip current

jocke4u 15 Nov 2014, 13:04 last edited by

Hi,

I have a stupid question and since it's referenced in the "MySensor shop" I would like to post here

The LED strip on the "MySensor store" here http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575069610&toolid=10001&campid=5337433187&customid=&icep_item=171158397695&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg
says

Specifications:
● Color: RGBW Mixed
● View angle:120°
● Working Voltage: 24V DC
● LED Quantity: 300 leds/5 M(150pcs RGB LED and 150pcs White LED)
● Working Current/Meter: 6A
● Output power: 72W /5 Meter

As I understand 5050 SMD LED have a standard power consumption of 0,24W/LED = 72W for the one above which seems ok. With 24V it should be 3 Amp for 5 m (72W/24V) and not 6A per meter as it says.

Also it would be good to have a good recommendation on 12V LED driver as you also have 12V LED strips in the shop
/ Jocke
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I didn't think the voltage drop would make enough of a difference to notice, but i guess it does. I might have to research and look for a more efficient Mosfet.
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@Nca78 Yes, I was actually thinking using DIP switch (or even more easy to read thumbwheel switch) to give a unique ID to each node! As soon as I receive the extra radio modules I ordered, I'll test that. @Grubstake I'm afraid you're right! But it's ok to have just a few days of battery life. As I wrote, it might be often disassembled and reassembled.
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This is a simple, low-cost and quick project that can get a high spouse acceptance factor. Mirror Remove the led strip from the aluminum profiles. Cut the aluminum profiles and the covers to appropriate length. I used a hacksaw to cut profile+cover at the same time to ensure the got the same length. Cut the led strips at one of the cut points using a side cutter. Remove the old wires (they are too short to reach the box) and solder new wires. Put the led strip back inside the aluminum profile. Note that there is a small grove at the back for the strip, this ensures that the strip is close to the profile to maximize cooling. Glue the profiles to the mirror. I used slow-curing epoxy. Electronics box Drill holes in the project box for the switch (6mm) and the potentiometer (6mm should be enough but was too tight so I used 8mm). Drill a 4mm hole for the wires to the led strips. Upload the sketch to the Arduino Connect the Arduino and the battery packs and put them inside the project box. Fasten the project box using double-sided tape. Big thanks to my wife for letting me use the action photo.
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My Project • mysensors temperature led ota iot wifi battery powered bluetooth ble low power rgb motion sensor hardware 3d print battery sensor fota mcu enclosure battery monitor pcb layout battery voltage bluetooth low energy measurement alarm system software antenna 32bit pcb manufacturi pcba dc-to-dc • 7 Jan 2021, 20:57 • William Meli 10 Jan 2021, 11:51

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10 Jan 2021, 11:51

@NeverDie Thx for appreciating the work done. There will also be an open source part in the future. When and how extensive the open source part will be, remains to be seen. The release of certain information (block diagram, ..., in this post) is related to those open source parts. There are some OBD solutions, however most of them (in my experience) give back low frequency data put by the car manufacturer on the OBD-bus (CAN, ...). Therefore transients evolving directly from the battery could only be recorded if the manufacturer sends those data accordingly on the bus. Due to the small bandwidth(also because of other car data that have to be sent, ...), such battery data are sent more often once per second or less. Fast battery events (i.e. cranking events, ...) are therefore imperceptible. Unless the manufacturer processes the fast events and then sends them (once per second or less), which is very unlikely if the manufacturer does not market this feature itself. Third parties devices for high frequency sensing costs several hundreds dollars. In my experience, important battery states (especially the fast ones) are recorded by measuring and processing corresponding data directly on the battery. I agree with you about the limits related to the communication over Bluetooth. But i think Bluetooth 5.0 will improve a lot. However, WiFi will always remain an important option due to the high data throughput. The combination of both (BLE & WiFi), especially with regard to energy consumption, will gain in importance.
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@krisztian Hi krisztian, the singleLED board - as its name suggests - features only one LED output. If you want to have a setup with multiple LED strips you need to design a board with multiple outputs. I have already designed a board with 4 outputs, but I haven't built it. In terms of software you need to register multiple sensors in your program like this: #define numCh 4 //the number of outputs const byte ledPins[] = {9,6,5,3}; byte ledLevel[numCh]; boolean ledDimWay[numCh]; //in the setup function request the dim levels from the gateway for(byte i=0; i<numCh; i++) request(i, V_DIMMER); //in the presentation function register multiple lights for(byte i=0; i<numCh; i++) present(i, S_DIMMER); //if you receive a signal, you need to check for the sensor id setLED(message.sensor, requestedLevel); //to set the LED level (function: setLED) you need to use the sensor id to determine brightness and pin //Fade LED to set level int delta = (level - ledLevel[child]) < 0 ? -1 : 1; //Write to LED analogWrite(ledPins[child], map(ledLevel[child],0,100,0,255)); I will probably publish the whole code once I have built and tested the 4LED controller (i call it "MySensors rainbowLED") Hope I could help you ThetaDev
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Good point! Will consider in the next version...

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