@NeverDie Thx for appreciating the work done. There will also be an open source part in the future. When and how extensive the open source part will be, remains to be seen. The release of certain information (block diagram, ..., in this post) is related to those open source parts. There are some OBD solutions, however most of them (in my experience) give back low frequency data put by the car manufacturer on the OBD-bus (CAN, ...). Therefore transients evolving directly from the battery could only be recorded if the manufacturer sends those data accordingly on the bus. Due to the small bandwidth(also because of other car data that have to be sent, ...), such battery data are sent more often once per second or less. Fast battery events (i.e. cranking events, ...) are therefore imperceptible. Unless the manufacturer processes the fast events and then sends them (once per second or less), which is very unlikely if the manufacturer does not market this feature itself. Third parties devices for high frequency sensing costs several hundreds dollars. In my experience, important battery states (especially the fast ones) are recorded by measuring and processing corresponding data directly on the battery. I agree with you about the limits related to the communication over Bluetooth. But i think Bluetooth 5.0 will improve a lot. However, WiFi will always remain an important option due to the high data throughput. The combination of both (BLE & WiFi), especially with regard to energy consumption, will gain in importance.

Good point! Will consider in the next version...

Nice job, efficient and clean ! I'm tempted to buy this microscope now, so I can make your led light

@yoshida I'm not sure... Maybe

@krisztian Hi krisztian, the singleLED board - as its name suggests - features only one LED output. If you want to have a setup with multiple LED strips you need to design a board with multiple outputs. I have already designed a board with 4 outputs, but I haven't built it. In terms of software you need to register multiple sensors in your program like this: #define numCh 4 //the number of outputs const byte ledPins[] = {9,6,5,3}; byte ledLevel[numCh]; boolean ledDimWay[numCh]; //in the setup function request the dim levels from the gateway for(byte i=0; i<numCh; i++) request(i, V_DIMMER); //in the presentation function register multiple lights for(byte i=0; i<numCh; i++) present(i, S_DIMMER); //if you receive a signal, you need to check for the sensor id setLED(message.sensor, requestedLevel); //to set the LED level (function: setLED) you need to use the sensor id to determine brightness and pin //Fade LED to set level int delta = (level - ledLevel[child]) < 0 ? -1 : 1; //Write to LED analogWrite(ledPins[child], map(ledLevel[child],0,100,0,255)); I will probably publish the whole code once I have built and tested the 4LED controller (i call it "MySensors rainbowLED") Hope I could help you ThetaDev

I have already published all the documentation, on my website, GitHub and openhardware.io For now I leave the node as finished. SmartHome: Wireless LED RGBW Controller – 00:55— giltesa

@yoshida hi! Im not sure where you get that #9 should be A5? Looks right to me. The pin is connected to pin 9, and that is D3. For a rotary encoder, it depends on your input - but don't you want an analog signal in? In that case you use the analog pins. Edit: offcourse, if you use a module converting it to digital like described in the the build section you use a digital pin.

@Nca78 Yes, I was actually thinking using DIP switch (or even more easy to read thumbwheel switch) to give a unique ID to each node! As soon as I receive the extra radio modules I ordered, I'll test that. @Grubstake I'm afraid you're right! But it's ok to have just a few days of battery life. As I wrote, it might be often disassembled and reassembled.

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Very nice! I'm planning to build a 12x12 led 40x40cm "screen" and Fadecandy looks like a great match to create art to display on it.

This is a simple, low-cost and quick project that can get a high spouse acceptance factor. Mirror Remove the led strip from the aluminum profiles. Cut the aluminum profiles and the covers to appropriate length. I used a hacksaw to cut profile+cover at the same time to ensure the got the same length. Cut the led strips at one of the cut points using a side cutter. Remove the old wires (they are too short to reach the box) and solder new wires. Put the led strip back inside the aluminum profile. Note that there is a small grove at the back for the strip, this ensures that the strip is close to the profile to maximize cooling. Glue the profiles to the mirror. I used slow-curing epoxy. Electronics box Drill holes in the project box for the switch (6mm) and the potentiometer (6mm should be enough but was too tight so I used 8mm). Drill a 4mm hole for the wires to the led strips. Upload the sketch to the Arduino Connect the Arduino and the battery packs and put them inside the project box. Fasten the project box using double-sided tape. Big thanks to my wife for letting me use the action photo.

Do you have interest to try OH2 together with MySensors Ethernet Gateway to get working? I do not have enough force to push developers to make this happen. At the moment there is some problem on this, because full control is not possible. I think that MySensors Serial Gateway is working with OH2, but I don't like to use it. I like to connect my devices into LAN not cabling via old fashioned way using serial wires.

The choice of MOSFET can be tricky. Seems that irlz44n was discontinued so you may need to find one adapted to the voltage and current you want to handle. In all the cases you need to get a logic MOSFET too, meaning that they are fully open usually around 1 to 3V. Also I'm sort of confused as it seems to me that L7812CV is a Voltage regulator, not a MOSFET. So if you are actually using that in the MOSFET spot it will definitively not work. Especially if you are handling high current or voltage I would recommend using one from a reputable source for your MOSFET, I recently switched from mouser / digikey / aliexpress to mostly use http://www.arrow.com as you get free regular shipping, event if you order a couple of components (no affiliation to them whatsoever).

this kind of optic fiber is probably only plastic so for a full DIY , you can use also fishing wire with a big power led or an old chistmass tree optic fiber lighted.....

@Samuel235 said: Just one of many ideas, the possibilties are endless. I'de always go for RGB leds over just white, allows for more customisation while able to still give you the same white as the white leds. ... unless, as in my use case, colors are not needed. I'm too stingy to pay for the unused dry powder!

This should work with Domoticz, it's what I intend to use with it. I've received the boards from China and I'm currently working on a version 2 of this board. There are some errors in the design of version 1 that I need to get out. New version will be up shortly.

@Homer I've made a 2 double LED dimmer as well works very good and can easily be extended with more dimable leds. See my project here

@mfalkvidd said: I am using them at 12V so the power would be ~4W. Not too much but still enough to get the sink hot! The voltage makes no difference. 5A is still 5A. you are right brain fart

@destos Wow!

Thanks for the reply. I am not looking to use an LCD, although that may be the best solution. For now, I plan on creating a simple set of LEDs and buttons. I have looked over the code, and was wondering which part of the code is retrieving the status of a sensor? What if I have multiple motion sensors, how would I retrieve each unique value?

I didn't think the voltage drop would make enough of a difference to notice, but i guess it does. I might have to research and look for a more efficient Mosfet.