CNC PCB milling
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I'm now 4 for 4 with the sneak up method. Each time it worked, so I feel comfortable I can rely on it. I now start with a cutting depth of z=-0.03, and then, as needed, I "sneak up" on the final cutting depth from there. That yields the minimum cutting depth, which in turn avoids trace obliteration.
I'm just glad it works. :)
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I suspect using a roller, such as the following, might help in flattening the pcb down against the waste board:
https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71010-Handle-J-Roller-Rubber/dp/B00NFAOCVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515463577&sr=8-1&keywords=laminate+roller -
I suspect using a roller, such as the following, might help in flattening the pcb down against the waste board:
https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71010-Handle-J-Roller-Rubber/dp/B00NFAOCVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515463577&sr=8-1&keywords=laminate+roller@neverdie You will get nowhere near the same downward pressure... just using your hands or tapping it down with a rubber mallet is more effective imho....
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Argh, the CNC totally died again. Except this time it isn't a bad power supply. Rather, the woodpecker board is non-responsive. Looks as though I'll have to order a replacement woodpecker board. :(
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I found a place which sells a very similar looking board with epacket delivery, so I ordered from them: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GRBL-0-9J-USB-port-cnc-engraving-machine-control-board-3-axis-control-laser-engraving-machine/32800881096.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.234.rCVwg2&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10151_10065_10344_10130_10068_10324_10342_10547_10325_10546_10343_10340_10548_10341_10545_10084_10083_10613_10615_10307_10614_10059_10314_10534_100031_10604_10103_10142,searchweb201603_36,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=fda46a77-2501-458a-bcbb-474154a6fced-34&algo_pvid=fda46a77-2501-458a-bcbb-474154a6fced&transAbTest=ae803_5&priceBeautifyAB=0
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@NeverDie
too bad! perhaps it's just power supply regulator or a fet which died?? or maybe one of the drivers, just ideas.. I don't know this board.
Saying this because that was the first things I checked on my 3d printer Ramps board- changed ldo (on arduino mega) because I didn't trust clones..
- a few fets for better rdson (on the Ramps board). then there was no more heat..
- and of course I calibrated the steppers drivers
Edit: argh, i misread it's non responsive..then mcu maybe.
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I found a place which sells a very similar looking board with epacket delivery, so I ordered from them: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GRBL-0-9J-USB-port-cnc-engraving-machine-control-board-3-axis-control-laser-engraving-machine/32800881096.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.234.rCVwg2&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10151_10065_10344_10130_10068_10324_10342_10547_10325_10546_10343_10340_10548_10341_10545_10084_10083_10613_10615_10307_10614_10059_10314_10534_100031_10604_10103_10142,searchweb201603_36,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=fda46a77-2501-458a-bcbb-474154a6fced-34&algo_pvid=fda46a77-2501-458a-bcbb-474154a6fced&transAbTest=ae803_5&priceBeautifyAB=0
@neverdie I believe the boards with a removable Arduino Nano are better, if the uC fries you can replace it without replacing the whole board.
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@neverdie I believe the boards with a removable Arduino Nano are better, if the uC fries you can replace it without replacing the whole board.
@executivul similar to the RAMPS boards for 3D printers. It's all modular so if your uC or a stepper driver dies, you can just replace that one part.
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@neverdie I believe the boards with a removable Arduino Nano are better, if the uC fries you can replace it without replacing the whole board.
@executivul said in CNC PCB milling:
@neverdie I believe the boards with a removable Arduino Nano are better, if the uC fries you can replace it without replacing the whole board.
I agree that seems like a far better design, for exactly that reason. I'm hoping this isn't something that happens regularly. If the replacement dies too, then I'll make the switch.
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@executivul said in CNC PCB milling:
@neverdie I believe the boards with a removable Arduino Nano are better, if the uC fries you can replace it without replacing the whole board.
I agree that seems like a far better design, for exactly that reason. I'm hoping this isn't something that happens regularly. If the replacement dies too, then I'll make the switch.
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I've read from one of the sellers of the nano based grbl boards that they're typically hardwired against microstepping, but that the shields for the arduino uno don't typically have that problem. So, with that in mind, I'll probably order this as a backup in case of future failures: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/A4988-Driver-CNC-Qunqi-Shield-Expansion-Board-for-Arduino-V3-Engraver/32639790781.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10151_10065_10344_10130_10068_10324_10342_10547_10325_10546_10343_10340_10548_10341_10545_10084_10083_10613_10615_10307_10614_10059_10314_10534_100031_10604_10103_10142,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=14eaf328-95a3-442a-be93-ac1ee33f07f5-4&algo_pvid=14eaf328-95a3-442a-be93-ac1ee33f07f5&priceBeautifyAB=0
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@NeverDie
too bad! perhaps it's just power supply regulator or a fet which died?? or maybe one of the drivers, just ideas.. I don't know this board.
Saying this because that was the first things I checked on my 3d printer Ramps board- changed ldo (on arduino mega) because I didn't trust clones..
- a few fets for better rdson (on the Ramps board). then there was no more heat..
- and of course I calibrated the steppers drivers
Edit: argh, i misread it's non responsive..then mcu maybe.
@scalz said in CNC PCB milling:
@NeverDie
too bad! perhaps it's just power supply regulator or a fet which died?? or maybe one of the drivers, just ideas.. I don't know this board.
Saying this because that was the first things I checked on my 3d printer Ramps board- changed ldo (on arduino mega) because I didn't trust clones..
- a few fets for better rdson (on the Ramps board). then there was no more heat..
- and of course I calibrated the steppers drivers
Edit: argh, i misread it's non responsive..then mcu maybe.
It's receiving power, because the red LED lights up when I connect to it. The atmega328p also appears to be receiving the characters I send to it, because there's an LED that lights very briefly when I do that. However, I'm not seeing that it is sending any characters back, and I'm guessing there would be yet another LED which would indicate that if there were. So, I'm guessing most likely the mcu is dead. I wouldn't be surprised if it got some kind of electrostatic shock when probing, since the probing circuit appears to be wired directly to one of its pins. Also, I was attaching the probe immediately prior to its dying. That makes it a prime suspect in my mind. I don't want to over-react, but for the future I may try isolating that circuit with an opto-isolator or similar to hopefully prevent a recurrence. On the face of it, the present design seems like a heartache just waiting to happen.
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@neverdie or you could just mill your own board since now you have the tools :ok_hand:
@executivul said in CNC PCB milling:
@neverdie or you could just mill your own board since now you have the tools :ok_hand:
Not if it's broke he doesn't.
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That's the original designer of that shield :
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@scalz said in CNC PCB milling:
@NeverDie
too bad! perhaps it's just power supply regulator or a fet which died?? or maybe one of the drivers, just ideas.. I don't know this board.
Saying this because that was the first things I checked on my 3d printer Ramps board- changed ldo (on arduino mega) because I didn't trust clones..
- a few fets for better rdson (on the Ramps board). then there was no more heat..
- and of course I calibrated the steppers drivers
Edit: argh, i misread it's non responsive..then mcu maybe.
It's receiving power, because the red LED lights up when I connect to it. The atmega328p also appears to be receiving the characters I send to it, because there's an LED that lights very briefly when I do that. However, I'm not seeing that it is sending any characters back, and I'm guessing there would be yet another LED which would indicate that if there were. So, I'm guessing most likely the mcu is dead. I wouldn't be surprised if it got some kind of electrostatic shock when probing, since the probing circuit appears to be wired directly to one of its pins. Also, I was attaching the probe immediately prior to its dying. That makes it a prime suspect in my mind. I don't want to over-react, but for the future I may try isolating that circuit with an opto-isolator or similar to hopefully prevent a recurrence. On the face of it, the present design seems like a heartache just waiting to happen.
@neverdie interesting.
the LEDs are driven by the communication line itself, so if you send a character on serial to the board, then basically your data will flash the MCU's RX LED, not the MCU.there should be no problem at all with the touch probe solution/circuit. it equals to a simple button sensing on a common arduino's pin, it cannot cause the MCU's death, if you are connecting everything properly.
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Once I find my dragon, I'll burn a new atmega328p with the grbl 1.1 and replace the suspect atmega328p. Hopefully it will work then. If not, then I'm guessing it's the the usb-to-serial chip gone bad. Anyhow, one way or another I'll get to the bottom of it. And if I don't, a replacement board is on its way.
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Once I find my dragon, I'll burn a new atmega328p with the grbl 1.1 and replace the suspect atmega328p. Hopefully it will work then. If not, then I'm guessing it's the the usb-to-serial chip gone bad. Anyhow, one way or another I'll get to the bottom of it. And if I don't, a replacement board is on its way.
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@neverdie don't stick to you missing dragon programmer. use an arduino as an isp programmer instead. also, if you burn the bootloader, next time you can use the usb connector for update.
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I extracted the atmega328p chip that was on the woodpecker and attempted to read it. Fail. Normal voltage is 5v on a fresh chip, but it was reading only 4.8v. Also, it got quite hot. So, I think it is defective.
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I've established that the GRBL1.1f firmware assumes it's running at 16Mhz. So, I guess I'll try the following fuse settings, typically used on a 16Mhz Pro Mini:
pro5v328.bootloader.low_fuses=0xFF <<< same as 8 MHz pro5v328.bootloader.high_fuses=0xDA <<< same as 8 MHz pro5v328.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x05 <<< same as 8 MHzBODLEVEL = 2V7 RSTDISBL = [ ] DWEN = [ ] SPIEN = [X] WDTON = [ ] EESAVE = [ ] BOOTSZ = 1024W_3C00 BOOTRST = [X] CKDIV8 = [ ] CKOUT = [ ] SUT_CKSEL = EXTXOSC_8MHZ_XX_16KCK_14CK_65MS EXTENDED = 0x05 (valid) HIGH = 0xDA (valid) LOW = 0xFF (valid)
