@JahFyahh - I still haven't managed to et round to it. I've been really busy since this project and its still hectic here. I'm sure i read a few reviews somewhere, here or google. Not sure.
You can put 100uf on each even 200uf would not be able to handle only one tx, so..
but you need them at least for coin cells.
you would need more capa to handle tx..but the more capa the more time they take for recharging, and the recharging if big, increase internal res of the coin cell and that's not so good too; to prevent this that would need a current resistor limiter..etc a whole balance!
On mine for instance, I have 100uF for coincell, 100uF for PIR and 86uf on radio. Fresh varta coincell 3.02V, after multiple presentation tx 2.85V if I remember, not so bad. but that's an homemade pcb.
Another notes, it's better to use ceramic capacitor (because of leakage, if you want to optimize), and better smd, but that's not your case I think.
Advantage of this sensor is fast and easy installing by the non qualified personal. The sensor is designed for large agriculture facility with many greenhouses where is needed to be controlled temperature and humidity, the atmospheric pressure is for control the motor of air inlet and outlet. With help of the sensor installed outside the greenhouse provide information about positive/negative pressure inside the greenhouse.
Finlay the software read accurate temp/humid value of the Si7021, and only atmospheric pressure of BMP180, the temperature sensor inside the BMP180 is used only by the sensor itself to provide accurate atmospheric pressure measurements.
The sensor can be used also for home automation, and drone applications where is needed correction of the UAV barometric sensor compared to the ground barometric sensor, also humidity measurement can help the pilot to calculate more accurate flying time.
@nekitoss
I used 3.3V pro mini with regulator removed and powered by Vin pin. Also removed leds from the pro mini.
I used minicore bootloader.
I used the small pir sensors and again removed the regulator to power directly from the pro mini outputs.
After that sleep the node and trigger on interrupt.
Send battery level once a day.
Use inbuilt battery level monitor and not external components that constantly drain power to get battery level.
1.8V is 0% on the graph (not visible yet!) but I have had nodes working below 1.7V It's a matter of luck with that it seems.
Hope this helps you on the right track. I'll try and help if you want.
This is the latest image and still going strong after 18 months. Voltage is at 2.903V
Here is photo of the test example - I need to make a case and produce more of them over winter.....
Here is the same build/code of a window sensor. Similar time frame but hardly triggered.....
