Please add the documents required by the CERN license used.

Interesting, please note that you need to be a licensed ham radio operator, in order to use the APRS network.

@alexsh1 the reason i am using the 18650's is the fact i have a steady stream of them coming in for my large battery packs. I have a couple hundred that aren't dead but just aren't quite up to to the standard i am putting in my big packs.

Hi @Siddharth-Velappan The warmup time of the MH Z19b is 3 minutes. So 2 is probably fine, but you could probably do 3 just in case. Although 2 would save your more battery time. Do you mind explaining your setup a bit more? I would love to do something similar but I do not know where to get started with the PIC microcontroller!

...soon | multi sensor | mysensors | nrf52832 | final tests – 01:33— Андрей Ламченко

Hi, General description is available on english version. Sorry for bad translate.

First soldered device: And a small test:

@anticimex You are too fast Now the CERN files are uploaded!!

Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions: in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain? is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways? i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board? Thank you very much

BTW, I like how you both made a case for it. Very nice!

@chbla said in Multiple uses battery RFM69 node: Can anyone suggest a source for the parts? Are there any sources that you can upload the files by any chance? If you mean can you upload a BOM to a company and then it generates a basket of the items, then i know that farnell and maybe digikey do this. But i only use this feature that is built into EAGLE pcb designer, so i'm not sure if they support it directly on their websites, might be worth a look. http://www.farnell.com/ http://www.digikey.co.uk

@koresh said in Button size radionode with sensors swarm extension: @christoph-blank Hi, thanks for using this board. In the first version of this board the divider is conected after LDO, so you can't measure voltage above 3.3V. In the second version the divider is connected to the battery directly. You use 3.2v battery so it is not problem for you. But LiFePo4 battery has very flat discharge curve so it can be hard to read this level with reasonable accuracy. I will try to find LiFePo4 battery and add some piece of code soon. Yet you can play with followed code // Get the battery Voltage int sensorValue = analogRead(BATTERY_SENSE_PIN); // 1M, 470K divider across battery and using internal ADC ref of 1.1V1 // ((1e6+470e3)/470e3)*1.1 = Vmax = 3.44 Volts /* The MySensors Lib uses internal ADC ref of 1.1V which means analogRead of the pin connected to 470kOhms Battery Devider reaches * 1023 when voltage on the divider is around 3.44 Volts. 2.5 volts is equal to 750. 2 volts is equal to 600. * RFM 69 CW works stable up to 2 volts. Assume 2.5 V is 0% and 1023 is 100% battery charge * RFM 69 HCW works stable up to 2.5 volts (sometimes it can work up to 2.0V). Assume 2.5 V is 0% and 1023 is 100% battery charge * 3.3V ~ 1023 * 3.0V ~ 900 * 2.5V ~ 750 * 2.0V ~ 600 */ #ifdef MY_IS_RFM69HW int batteryPcnt = (sensorValue - 750) / 1.5; #else int batteryPcnt = (sensorValue - 600) / 3; #endif Thank you very much, what are the other differences between V1 and V2? I believe I have V1 but I'm not sure. The above code is what I currently use, and I removed the sensor part of the module. However, it shows 100% until the end (until it's not sending anymore). Looking forward to your tests! Christoph

What is the max ampere capacity of 3.3V battery it can charge ? Is there any upper limit like 1000mAh or 3300mAh like that ?

In deep Sleep the cunsumption is below 19µA, but i have to send with PA_MAX. On some Windows the open/close frequency is verry high, so the battery is to fast emty. The CR2032 is good, but i want more "lifetime"

You can put 100uf on each even 200uf would not be able to handle only one tx, so.. but you need them at least for coin cells. you would need more capa to handle tx..but the more capa the more time they take for recharging, and the recharging if big, increase internal res of the coin cell and that's not so good too; to prevent this that would need a current resistor limiter..etc a whole balance! On mine for instance, I have 100uF for coincell, 100uF for PIR and 86uf on radio. Fresh varta coincell 3.02V, after multiple presentation tx 2.85V if I remember, not so bad. but that's an homemade pcb. Another notes, it's better to use ceramic capacitor (because of leakage, if you want to optimize), and better smd, but that's not your case I think.

@NeverDie Yes, you are correct - it is based on ATMega1284P. So not relevant My point is that I'd rather stick to the datasheet rather than overclock, but that's just me. And yes I realise that Moteino is overclocking, but the size, voltage and flash are really appealing to me.

@mardah oh... you mean pin change system, not extint. You can use it of course.

Thanks again, learned a lot... I decide to give a try there, I also had a look on some components' datasheet and seems to be what I need... Let's see, if end up getting the boards I'll publish a review here later.

@JahFyahh - I still haven't managed to et round to it. I've been really busy since this project and its still hectic here. I'm sure i read a few reviews somewhere, here or google. Not sure.

Thats perfect.. definitely have to try this.. Thanks!!

Nice! Will be interesting to hear about how long the CR2032 lasts.

@MiKa which box are you referring to? Generic boxes are available here: https://www.mysensors.org/store/boxes

Here is a new enclosure for the My Slim 2AA Battery Node. Not as slim but the overall form factor is still small. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3269357

When you read the data sheet correctly you can see, that the distance between the pins is different for a AA and AAA battery holder. That`s why I was asking if somebody can recommend a holder that fits.

@birinderk - https://github.com/sundberg84/HomeAutomation/tree/master/MysX template EasyPCB

@fets So far, I have only built the 5x5 board (but the others should be schematically identical). The only issue I have found so far is that I cannot get the ISP port to work. But I have checked and I have an identical setup on the 1.0 board and that worked, so I suspect the programmer is too weak to drive the net on this one. So it is not a board-issue per se, and might only be an issue on the 5x5 board as routing is the most complex on that one due to the size.

Since some people people have found this useful I'm posting an update. Six months have passed and I'm very happy with the results. The nodes using the 4 second sleep are barely now into the nominal voltage of two AA batteries (3V) and I think those can last a copule of years like that. The 2 second sleep node is dipping a lot faster, but I suspect that the cause is the Si7021 taking readings every 3minutes that is accelerating the decline, even then I think this one could almost make it to a year.

Thank Sensor ready work. (I have not valid binary Optiboot)

@NeverDie Perhaps but the design is a bit too simple and unoriginal. I'd have to clean up the files a bit and I haven't touched Eagle since I made this board several years ago.

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/802/mqtt-and-batterylevel/2

Looks like it has been a year or two now. Is it still going on the original battery?

Hi @tbowmo, do you mind to explain a bit about the design? I'm interested with your design. I will use these steps for removing voltage regulator, http://goo.gl/CsZaNg So the design will be battery > external step up regulator (http://goo.gl/PFt99R - to stabilize 3.3v) > vcc pin ? with these then I can use my first post design? Thanks

@dzairo there is a nice PinChangeInterrupt library that you may want to look at.

@sundberg84 I also on my last work removed the LG33, it's faster Well this most likely have been provided as info, but else it's here: Remember to burn new OPTIBOOT 8MHz into the Arduino Pro Mini and then I also use avrdude with a usbtinyISP to set the fuse to not check battery voltage monitoring, this is done after I have flashed this with Arduino IDE avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -U efuse:w:0x07:m```