@4994james or just use internal vcc measurement as described on the same page. That saves you the voltage divider. I wrote a convenient library to measure vcc internally : https://github.com/Yveaux/Arduino_Vcc

Welcome to the forum @mitchdes Yes, you are correct.

The product listing for the step-up that the OP is using says: Sucks the juice out of your batteries. Sounds like it delivers on what it promises....

@Puneit-Thukral Could you post your full working sketch please? I'm revisiting some of my 51822 nodes that have sat collecting dust for a long time and thought i might try to get them working again.

Please add the documents required by the CERN license used.

Interesting, please note that you need to be a licensed ham radio operator, in order to use the APRS network.

@alexsh1 the reason i am using the 18650's is the fact i have a steady stream of them coming in for my large battery packs. I have a couple hundred that aren't dead but just aren't quite up to to the standard i am putting in my big packs.

Hi @Siddharth-Velappan The warmup time of the MH Z19b is 3 minutes. So 2 is probably fine, but you could probably do 3 just in case. Although 2 would save your more battery time. Do you mind explaining your setup a bit more? I would love to do something similar but I do not know where to get started with the PIC microcontroller!

@berkseo Thank you for your answer Good continuation on your nice project.

Hi, General description is available on english version. Sorry for bad translate.

First soldered device: And a small test:

@anticimex You are too fast Now the CERN files are uploaded!!

Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions: in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain? is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways? i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board? Thank you very much

BTW, I like how you both made a case for it. Very nice!

@chbla said in Multiple uses battery RFM69 node: Can anyone suggest a source for the parts? Are there any sources that you can upload the files by any chance? If you mean can you upload a BOM to a company and then it generates a basket of the items, then i know that farnell and maybe digikey do this. But i only use this feature that is built into EAGLE pcb designer, so i'm not sure if they support it directly on their websites, might be worth a look. http://www.farnell.com/ http://www.digikey.co.uk

@mahesh2000 https://www.openhardware.io/view/299/Button-size-radionode-with-sensors-swarm-extension

What is the max ampere capacity of 3.3V battery it can charge ? Is there any upper limit like 1000mAh or 3300mAh like that ?

In deep Sleep the cunsumption is below 19µA, but i have to send with PA_MAX. On some Windows the open/close frequency is verry high, so the battery is to fast emty. The CR2032 is good, but i want more "lifetime"

@Yveaux said in Battery Powered Sensors: .... All was ok, so what did you change (and why) A the very beginning, hesitating with the procedure, I've probably burnt the Minicore bootloader in the programming ProMini without noticing it... That's the only explanation I see.

You can put 100uf on each even 200uf would not be able to handle only one tx, so.. but you need them at least for coin cells. you would need more capa to handle tx..but the more capa the more time they take for recharging, and the recharging if big, increase internal res of the coin cell and that's not so good too; to prevent this that would need a current resistor limiter..etc a whole balance! On mine for instance, I have 100uF for coincell, 100uF for PIR and 86uf on radio. Fresh varta coincell 3.02V, after multiple presentation tx 2.85V if I remember, not so bad. but that's an homemade pcb. Another notes, it's better to use ceramic capacitor (because of leakage, if you want to optimize), and better smd, but that's not your case I think.

@NeverDie Yes, you are correct - it is based on ATMega1284P. So not relevant My point is that I'd rather stick to the datasheet rather than overclock, but that's just me. And yes I realise that Moteino is overclocking, but the size, voltage and flash are really appealing to me.

@mardah oh... you mean pin change system, not extint. You can use it of course.

Thanks again, learned a lot... I decide to give a try there, I also had a look on some components' datasheet and seems to be what I need... Let's see, if end up getting the boards I'll publish a review here later.

@JahFyahh - I still haven't managed to et round to it. I've been really busy since this project and its still hectic here. I'm sure i read a few reviews somewhere, here or google. Not sure.

Thats perfect.. definitely have to try this.. Thanks!!

Nice! Will be interesting to hear about how long the CR2032 lasts.

@MiKa which box are you referring to? Generic boxes are available here: https://www.mysensors.org/store/boxes

@joaoabs said in My Slim 2AA Battery Node: Thx! Done!

When you read the data sheet correctly you can see, that the distance between the pins is different for a AA and AAA battery holder. That`s why I was asking if somebody can recommend a holder that fits.

@mickecarlsson , thanks for your answer and help I ordered the NRF24 version So , will cancel it and order RFM69 version Cheers, JC

@fets So far, I have only built the 5x5 board (but the others should be schematically identical). The only issue I have found so far is that I cannot get the ISP port to work. But I have checked and I have an identical setup on the 1.0 board and that worked, so I suspect the programmer is too weak to drive the net on this one. So it is not a board-issue per se, and might only be an issue on the 5x5 board as routing is the most complex on that one due to the size.

@ozrex, I don't want to assume your knowledge level. However the truth is that you will probably need to put together different bits and pieces from various threads in order to come up with your own custom solution (the A/C interface (IR) part, the battery part, etc...). Maybe it is worth it to create your own new thread, or maybe you want to keep researching / trying on your own a little longer first. The latter is admirable, and is the way I usually do it, too. Some times to a fault in my own case. Don't suffer along in silence if you are struggling to find the information, make a thread instead. If it becomes too difficult you may give up. We all need some small successes along the way to keep motivated and keep it fun. Probably best to create a new thread (I don't want to derail this one too much) but something you might want to look into is OpenMQTTGateway. I use it for my 433mhz, but it also supports RF, BLE, LoRa (and perhaps others in future) all on the same gateway! To me that was the way to go... And so far has been flawless for me.

Thank Sensor ready work. (I have not valid binary Optiboot)

@NeverDie Perhaps but the design is a bit too simple and unoriginal. I'd have to clean up the files a bit and I haven't touched Eagle since I made this board several years ago.

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/802/mqtt-and-batterylevel/2

Looks like it has been a year or two now. Is it still going on the original battery?

Hi @tbowmo, do you mind to explain a bit about the design? I'm interested with your design. I will use these steps for removing voltage regulator, http://goo.gl/CsZaNg So the design will be battery > external step up regulator (http://goo.gl/PFt99R - to stabilize 3.3v) > vcc pin ? with these then I can use my first post design? Thanks

@dzairo there is a nice PinChangeInterrupt library that you may want to look at.

@sundberg84 I also on my last work removed the LG33, it's faster Well this most likely have been provided as info, but else it's here: Remember to burn new OPTIBOOT 8MHz into the Arduino Pro Mini and then I also use avrdude with a usbtinyISP to set the fuse to not check battery voltage monitoring, this is done after I have flashed this with Arduino IDE avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -U efuse:w:0x07:m```