I have already published all the documentation, on my website, GitHub and openhardware.io
For now I leave the node as finished.
SmartHome: Wireless LED RGBW Controller – 00:55— giltesa
Thanks for the reply. I am not looking to use an LCD, although that may be the best solution. For now, I plan on creating a simple set of LEDs and buttons.
I have looked over the code, and was wondering which part of the code is retrieving the status of a sensor? What if I have multiple motion sensors, how would I retrieve each unique value?
This is a simple, low-cost and quick project that can get a high spouse acceptance factor.
Mirror
Remove the led strip from the aluminum profiles.
Cut the aluminum profiles and the covers to appropriate length. I used a hacksaw to cut profile+cover at the same time to ensure the got the same length.
Cut the led strips at one of the cut points using a side cutter.
Remove the old wires (they are too short to reach the box) and solder new wires.
Put the led strip back inside the aluminum profile. Note that there is a small grove at the back for the strip, this ensures that the strip is close to the profile to maximize cooling.
Glue the profiles to the mirror. I used slow-curing epoxy.
Electronics box
Drill holes in the project box for the switch (6mm) and the potentiometer (6mm should be enough but was too tight so I used 8mm).
Drill a 4mm hole for the wires to the led strips.
Upload the sketch to the Arduino
Connect the Arduino and the battery packs and put them inside the project box.
Fasten the project box using double-sided tape.
Big thanks to my wife for letting me use the action photo.
@yoshida hi!
Im not sure where you get that #9 should be A5? Looks right to me. The pin is connected to pin 9, and that is D3.
For a rotary encoder, it depends on your input - but don't you want an analog signal in? In that case you use the analog pins.
Edit: offcourse, if you use a module converting it to digital like described in the the build section you use a digital pin.
Not yet !
In fact, the interrupt must be short enough and fast enough to be sure to not miss the RFM69 interrupts.
The code for 8 dimmers will not be really more complicated : in fact, each time we got a zero cross, we must set a timer to zero, and then wait the good amount of milliseconds to turn on the needed outputs.
So, yes, we'll have an interrupts each 10ms (each time the wave crosses the zero, to be precise !), but I think all we have to do in the interrupt handler is set the timer to zero (or to micros() ...) and then on the main loop, wait the good amount of time for each output before setting them ON.
Seems simple on paper, perhaps it will not work on the chip....
In facts, my main concern is : will the RFM interrupt be short enough to not disturb the zero crossing interrupt ?
Although, not yet tested the RFM : do we NEED the interrupt pin ? Can't we poll frequently the RFM?
