I've updated the docs at home-assistant.io with sketch examples. Look at the light example.
https://home-assistant.io/components/light.mysensors/#example-sketch
It's what I used for testing during development. It adds an RGB sensor/actuator also besides a dimmer, but you can just remove any references to rgb in the sketch.
The dimmer slider will only be visible after turning on the light and clicking the entity in the gui to bring up the more info card.
@NeverDie Thx for appreciating the work done. There will also be an open source part in the future. When and how extensive the open source part will be, remains to be seen. The release of certain information (block diagram, ..., in this post) is related to those open source parts.
There are some OBD solutions, however most of them (in my experience) give back low frequency data put by the car manufacturer on the OBD-bus (CAN, ...). Therefore transients evolving directly from the battery could only be recorded if the manufacturer sends those data accordingly on the bus. Due to the small bandwidth(also because of other car data that have to be sent, ...), such battery data are sent more often once per second or less. Fast battery events (i.e. cranking events, ...) are therefore imperceptible. Unless the manufacturer processes the fast events and then sends them (once per second or less), which is very unlikely if the manufacturer does not market this feature itself. Third parties devices for high frequency sensing costs several hundreds dollars.
In my experience, important battery states (especially the fast ones) are recorded by measuring and processing corresponding data directly on the battery.
I agree with you about the limits related to the communication over Bluetooth. But i think Bluetooth 5.0 will improve a lot. However, WiFi will always remain an important option due to the high data throughput. The combination of both (BLE & WiFi), especially with regard to energy consumption, will gain in importance.
@yoshida hi!
Im not sure where you get that #9 should be A5? Looks right to me. The pin is connected to pin 9, and that is D3.
For a rotary encoder, it depends on your input - but don't you want an analog signal in? In that case you use the analog pins.
Edit: offcourse, if you use a module converting it to digital like described in the the build section you use a digital pin.
Hi @neelam, welcome to the forum!
The dimmer example should work. If you want to use only the esp8266 with wifi (no nrf/rfm or other radio), you'll also need to add gateway settings from https://www.mysensors.org/build/esp8266_gateway
