@Maciej-Kulawik said:
Some comments:
- You should include resistors (e.g. 100 ohm) between mc pin and transistor gate. Just to protect controller pin agains high current (when gate is charged).
- PWM output is available only for some pins. "On most Arduino boards (those with the ATmega168 or ATmega328), this function works on pins 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11."
So I don't think you can use pin 4 for green.- Additionally - PWM on pins 5 and 6 is a little broken; arduino core libraries use the same timer for millis() and delay() functions. Refer to documentation:
"This will be noticed mostly on low duty-cycle settings (e.g 0 - 10) and may result in a value of 0 not fully turning off the output on pins 5 and 6."- R2 is not necessary. Just enable internal pull-up in controller. The same for R1.
- Your schematic is a little bit ugly
There are missing may dots on signal connections.
The rest is quite fine. I also plan to build similar node.
It's the most beautiful schematic I've ever made. It's also the first one I've ever made 
Thanks for the feedback, really appreciate it. You're right about the PWM pins on the Arduino. My prototype seems to be working fine when connected to pin 4. I'll see what it does when the PCB's arrive.
@Dwalt said:
I am confused as to why this board would be powered by both 12V and 230V. Seems a bit redundant. What use case am I missing?
You could run the board on 12V. This design just takes the GND of the LED power supply and feeds that through the MOSFET's for driving the LED's. With this you can use whatever power supply you need for the LED's and swap them if you upgrade from 12V to 24V for example. I take the 230V that goes in to the LED power supply and feed that in the board for powering the arduino, radio etc.
