[Tutorial] How to burn 1Mhz & 8Mhz bootloader using Arduino IDE 1.6.5-r5

[Lendog]

Nice work.... that would have been handy a few days ago :) i had to figure out burn bootloader as well

If its any help to anyone else. the setting bootloader.extended_fuses=0x04 - changes the BOD to 4.3v

Had to use it on a 5v board as the original 2.7v caused lockups when had low voltage (was running board off solar panel)

[GertSanders]

Here are all the possible values:

bootloader.extended_fuses=0x04 -> BOD at 4.3V
bootloader.extended_fuses=0x05 -> BOD at 2.7V
bootloader.extended_fuses=0x06 -> BOD at 1.8V
bootloader.extended_fuses=0x07 -> BOD disabled

[flopp]

@GertSanders said:

Here are all the possible values:

bootloader.extended_fuses=0x04 -> BOD at 4.3V
bootloader.extended_fuses=0x05 -> BOD at 2.7V
bootloader.extended_fuses=0x06 -> BOD at 1.8V
bootloader.extended_fuses=0x07 -> BOD disabled

How low(volt) can you go when BOD disabled?

[GertSanders]

@flopp The atmega seems to function down to 1.6V (lowest I measured it). Depends on the working frequency. Check the datasheet. There are variations in each production batch.

The NRF24L01+ can only go down to 1.9V. My guess is that some modules do work at lower voltages at 250KBit rates, but then more transmission errors are possible.

With two AA batteries in series, going from 3V down to 1.9V and a node with an average consumption of les then 10 uA, I think you can get more then 1 year life out of it.

[flopp]

@GertSanders
Wow 1 year. I will try this tut in the weekend.

[GertSanders]

@flopp Not with a standard Arduino board, but with a Sensebender Micro or any board with power consumption below 10uA. An atmega328p on a breadboard is the simplest case. For a very good tutorial go here: http://www.gammon.com.au/breadboard

If you need an assembled board: https://www.openhardware.io/view/1/Sensebender-Micro.

It is the officially supported board for MySensors library. On OpenHardware.io you will find more options.

Have fun !

[flopp]

@GertSanders
Ok, I have read somewhere that a Pro Mini can go down to 1.8v, not possible?

[GertSanders]

@flopp A pro-mini can do this if the fuses are set properly (when powering via Vcc for instance). If you power the Pro Mini via the "raw" pin, then power passes through the on board power regulator first, and this one will not allow 1.8V as far as I know.

[flopp]

@GertSanders
Good to hear. I will reply how it went

[GertSanders]

@flopp look for messages on power saving on pro mini on this forum.

[drock1985]

hi @ahmedadelhosni

Thank you for the tutorial. Quick question: Is it possible to just take the Atmega 328 chip with the freshly flashed bootloader, and just stick in in the Arduino Uno to program a sketch?

[LastSamurai]

@drock1985 I think I have done just that. It only needs to have a bootloader (you could just flash one there though).

[flopp]

I have successfully burned a new bootloader to a pro mini clone, now I can run it down to 1,8V(I think) tried 2,6V and it still works

Thanks for a great tut

[drock1985]

Awesome @LastSamurai thanks.

One other question: Is it possible to just use a standard USB to FTDI converter to flash the sketch? Ex: flash bootloader using an Uno, then install in a SlimNode and use the FTDI connector there to flash?

[LastSamurai]

@drock1985 Yes once it has a bootloader that should be possible (you need to use the right settings though ;) )

[drock1985]

@LastSamurai

What settings would those be? Would they be things outside of the tutorial?

Sorry to ask so many questions. Never flashed an Arduino before outside of connecting a USB cable to an Uno or Nano

[LastSamurai]

@drock1985 Mainly the baudrate but if you just burn the standard e.g. Arduino Uno bootloader and then use the IDE with the Uno settings everything should work fine. If you encounter errors you can still check your settings ;) They are in the boards.txt file of the IDE.

Just try it though, it really isn't that hard ;)

[siod]

very good work instruction, thank you !! :thumbsup:

[rsachoc]

Hi there, and thanks for the tutorial. I'm trying this for the first time (the ATmega is going to be used in a slim temp node), and I'm receiving this message you mentioned:

avrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature.
Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override

You mention we should try the following:

Maybe your chip is configured to run on an external crystal clock. I tested with two values and it succeeded. I used 10Mhz and 20Mhz as I didn't have 16 Mhz.
Connect the crystal to pin 9 and 10
Note: You won't need the crystal except for the first time as the new bootloader is configured to run on internal 1Mhz or 8Mhz.

I don't quite follow what this means? Do I need a 10mhz, 16mhz or 20mhz crystal attached to the breadboard like you show in the video? If so, is that the only change I would need to make?

FYI I'm using an Arduino clone (Buono uno r3, set at 5V)

[ahmedadelhosni]

@rsachoc Maybe I need to rephrase the sentence :)
I meant that any crystal value will work. I didn't have 16Mhz, but I had the values 10Mhz and 20 Mhz. So I tested with 10 Mhz and I bypassed the error and didn't come again. I wanted to know further whether the crystal value is important or not. So I got another chip with preloaded arduino bootloader, and tested with 20Mhz. Also I succeeded. Thus I assume that you can use any value for this step .

I am also using Uno clone and this is the only thing I did regarding this issue. I didn't even add capacitors to the crystal. Just put any value and test.