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  3. 2 channel in wall dimmer

2 channel in wall dimmer

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  • A ahmedadelhosni

    Thank you all. I still want to know whether there will be charges also when I unplug it or not ?
    I am giving the example of a wall plug because it can be plugged and unplungged several times and the terminals can be touched.

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    Denke
    Hardware Contributor
    wrote on last edited by
    #38

    @ahmedadelhosni That all has to do if you have some sort of bleeder. or something that uses the charge. So in my design on the secondary side (+5V) there is always something that consumes the current. On the primary side you can see that there is bleeder resistors in paralell with the capacitor. So it should be safe from that aspect

    RaspberryPi-Openhab

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    • D Denke

      @ahmedadelhosni That all has to do if you have some sort of bleeder. or something that uses the charge. So in my design on the secondary side (+5V) there is always something that consumes the current. On the primary side you can see that there is bleeder resistors in paralell with the capacitor. So it should be safe from that aspect

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      ahmedadelhosni
      wrote on last edited by
      #39

      @Denke yeah great. I understood now.
      I am thinking of using LNK304 to produce 120mA max. Still trying to investigate how to layout the pcb design correctly from a safety prespective.
      Thanks for support

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        Denke
        Hardware Contributor
        wrote on last edited by Denke
        #40

        Boards are now ordered. Lets hope they will work fine. I have some doubts about EMI coming from the boards when dimming. So now it will be measure and correct if needed

        RaspberryPi-Openhab

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          Denke
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #41

          Finally new boards have arrived..

          Assembly will start soon:)
          0_1458579519569_20160321_172537 [297989] (2).jpg

          RaspberryPi-Openhab

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          • D Denke

            Finally new boards have arrived..

            Assembly will start soon:)
            0_1458579519569_20160321_172537 [297989] (2).jpg

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            ahmedadelhosni
            wrote on last edited by
            #42

            @Denke Nice :) I am really excited to see your results.
            Regarding the resistor which is in parallel to act as a bleeder. What value do you think the most suitable ? 100K ? 1M ? and howa much watt ?

            Thanks.

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            • A ahmedadelhosni

              @Denke Nice :) I am really excited to see your results.
              Regarding the resistor which is in parallel to act as a bleeder. What value do you think the most suitable ? 100K ? 1M ? and howa much watt ?

              Thanks.

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              Denke
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #43

              @ahmedadelhosni
              Hi I have used 1M as bleeder in 0603 size. This resistor should be able to handle around 0.1W.

              If i have calculated right the power in the bleeder resistor should be around 0.05W

              RaspberryPi-Openhab

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                ahmedadelhosni
                wrote on last edited by
                #44

                Any pictures of the assembled board ?

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                • A ahmedadelhosni

                  Any pictures of the assembled board ?

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                  Denke
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by Denke
                  #45

                  @ahmedadelhosni Have not started the assembly of these boards yet. Im currently doing assembly of my other project Wirsbo/Uponor thermostat replacement. And those boards seems to be fully functional.

                  I will post a picture as soon as I get it assembled

                  RaspberryPi-Openhab

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                  • D Denke

                    @ahmedadelhosni Have not started the assembly of these boards yet. Im currently doing assembly of my other project Wirsbo/Uponor thermostat replacement. And those boards seems to be fully functional.

                    I will post a picture as soon as I get it assembled

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                    ahmedadelhosni
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #46

                    Thanks @Denke

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                      ahmedadelhosni
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #47

                      0_1459108094968_upload-1fb891ae-8d4b-4987-99e9-f797e2264042

                      If I am not mistaken, isn't this the bleeding resistor in parallel with the cap ?
                      Why is there a reverse diode ? Won't this block the current from passing from the + terminal of the capacitor to the resistor then to gnd ?

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                      • A ahmedadelhosni

                        0_1459108094968_upload-1fb891ae-8d4b-4987-99e9-f797e2264042

                        If I am not mistaken, isn't this the bleeding resistor in parallel with the cap ?
                        Why is there a reverse diode ? Won't this block the current from passing from the + terminal of the capacitor to the resistor then to gnd ?

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                        GertSanders
                        Hardware Contributor
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #48

                        @ahmedadelhosni
                        It's a zener diode which will pass current once voltage is above 24v and then the resistor protects it from complete shorting to ground.

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                          Denke
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #49

                          First components added after a visit to the lab at work and some soldering under the microscope
                          0_1459367729436_20160330_214502Resized.jpg

                          RaspberryPi-Openhab

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                            Denke
                            Hardware Contributor
                            wrote on last edited by Denke
                            #50

                            Hi just wanted to get an update on this project.
                            I have assembled 2 pcb (not all components) to start debug the processor platform and surroundings. Unfortunatly i got a bit stuck as i have problems loading the boot loader. I have tried to use the process suggested on arduino.cc using an nano as ISP. I get alot of strange behaviours and are not able to upload.

                            Any tips and tricks is well received if you have any.

                            Othervise i will rest this project for a couple of weeks to be able to finnish my other thermostat project as well start a new, as the pool season is around the corner. And i really would love to be able to corntol pupm, lghts read temperatures and other stuff.

                            But if i find some good tricks i will pursue the goal to finnish this in wall dimmer before summer.

                            RaspberryPi-Openhab

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                              Oitzu
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #51

                              @Denke said:

                              I get alot of strange behaviours and are not able to upload.

                              You not yet have added the nrf24, or? With the nrf24 module added the upload via isp will not work.
                              Can you describe any more behaviour? Log output, led flashing...

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                                sundberg84
                                Hardware Contributor
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #52

                                @Oitzu - why should not burning a bootloader to the atmega work without the nrf24 attached?

                                Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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                                  Oitzu
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #53

                                  @sundberg84 in most of my cases it failed due to spi interferences.

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                                    sundberg84
                                    Hardware Contributor
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #54

                                    @Oitzu Ahh, sorry I missunderstood you - the other way around. I read it like you had to have the nrf attached to make it work :)

                                    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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