π¬ Roller Shutter Node
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It's ok, i haven't seen the fuse in the primary of the hilink ;)
with this fuse, the protection is guaranteed, then you don't need termofuse in this project :+1:
thanx for answer how you made your choice and i hope the release will arrive soon :) -
@scalz I agree with you it's not the best choice, I just want to try it anyway and see how it behaves. The configuration you use is probably the one used in commercial products, but my neighbour has some electric shutters with fibaro modules and they are really tiny, I wonder what relays they use. They have an external antenna (a wire) so it probably eases the internal design, they use a transformerles design, but I still don't get how they can fit relays inside and respect clearance/creepage.
I'm tempted with your board, but like many others the SMD components are putting me off at the moment. Wonder if this type of board would not be a good candidate for an ESP8266 module ?
It would take space similar to a radio module, but without any routing needed to connect to atmega. (and the castellated pins are not very hard to solder :)) -
@scalz I agree with you it's not the best choice, I just want to try it anyway and see how it behaves. The configuration you use is probably the one used in commercial products, but my neighbour has some electric shutters with fibaro modules and they are really tiny, I wonder what relays they use. They have an external antenna (a wire) so it probably eases the internal design, they use a transformerles design, but I still don't get how they can fit relays inside and respect clearance/creepage.
I'm tempted with your board, but like many others the SMD components are putting me off at the moment. Wonder if this type of board would not be a good candidate for an ESP8266 module ?
It would take space similar to a radio module, but without any routing needed to connect to atmega. (and the castellated pins are not very hard to solder :)) -
@Nca78 oki it's good to experiment by yourself you're right :) and if you do something better, sure i would use it ;) I'm not dumb!
for esp8266, i thought about it too.
First, I'm not a fan of wifi for rollershutter, it's like a door..I prefer something more secured with atmel/rfm/signing. But i have tried in eagle to see.
footprint was not really better! just looking at the topview, it's difficult to make smaller..as you can see with @dpressle board, which is nice design though, but 5x5, not same features, and i don't know about thickness, antenna near traces etc..so not same goals as I said.for fibaro modules, I don't have one so i can't tell, I know they are good in miniaturization. but I'm pretty sure they are using transformless, with a very tight, controlled and professional design etc..but my design is opensource work (almost for the moment) with a current sensor which can add some versatility who knows.
Maybe not so easy to handsolder for noobs, i can agree.
I could have used 0603, instead i kept 0805. in case middle experienced people would build it with moderate tools. even a noob who want to learn and know a bit about AC. On my side, no glasses and i don't need a magnifier with 0805, nor 0603 but it's easier with one. Maybe lucky. Try maybe you don't need it too guys, with little patience, pratice and fun :) I admit I'm not noob but I'm not former electronician.A trick: if not really friendly with smd, and need some boards, a stencil costs 15-20$, it's reusable, boost the job, and if you don't have reflow oven, there are multiple alternative like using your solder iron as solder paste is already applied, or hot gun etc.
taste and colours sometimes... :)
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@Nca78 oki it's good to experiment by yourself you're right :) and if you do something better, sure i would use it ;) I'm not dumb!
for esp8266, i thought about it too.
First, I'm not a fan of wifi for rollershutter, it's like a door..I prefer something more secured with atmel/rfm/signing. But i have tried in eagle to see.
footprint was not really better! just looking at the topview, it's difficult to make smaller..as you can see with @dpressle board, which is nice design though, but 5x5, not same features, and i don't know about thickness, antenna near traces etc..so not same goals as I said.for fibaro modules, I don't have one so i can't tell, I know they are good in miniaturization. but I'm pretty sure they are using transformless, with a very tight, controlled and professional design etc..but my design is opensource work (almost for the moment) with a current sensor which can add some versatility who knows.
Maybe not so easy to handsolder for noobs, i can agree.
I could have used 0603, instead i kept 0805. in case middle experienced people would build it with moderate tools. even a noob who want to learn and know a bit about AC. On my side, no glasses and i don't need a magnifier with 0805, nor 0603 but it's easier with one. Maybe lucky. Try maybe you don't need it too guys, with little patience, pratice and fun :) I admit I'm not noob but I'm not former electronician.A trick: if not really friendly with smd, and need some boards, a stencil costs 15-20$, it's reusable, boost the job, and if you don't have reflow oven, there are multiple alternative like using your solder iron as solder paste is already applied, or hot gun etc.
taste and colours sometimes... :)
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@Samuel235 Elecrow when i order pcb, or oshstencils.com is great too
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@Samuel235 Elecrow when i order pcb, or oshstencils.com is great too
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@Samuel235 Elecrow when i order pcb, or oshstencils.com is great too
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Hey guys :)
this time is time for update ;)
rfm69 version is uploaded. Added a bit of documentation. github in sync with this topic. gerbers and design files released too.
Only STL and the sketch are missing, not for long, I have just finished to write and try formatting my post, upload and check everything etc.. Maybe there are some typos in doc I think etc..I am looking if it could be interesting to use PCBA through pcbway or others.
At least, pcb should be available here through pcbway, I have pushed the button :)Enjoy :v:
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Great, I would be interested in PCBA board as I'm not feeling motivated for playing with solder paste and buying a reflow oven yet ;)
I'm more interested in a NRF24 version and if you can only get RFM69 version with PCBA then I will adapt, but maybe you can have an option without the radio ?
At the moment I would order only 1-2 boards to make some intensive testing first, I have some big windows (over 2m*2m so it will need a relatively powerfull motor), and tropical weather with high temperature and high humidity.
But if it survives the local conditions I have 9 manual roller shutters in my appartment and I know some neighbours are interested in home automation stuff also, with 350 appartments in my building there's some potential for orders :D -
@Nca78
wow! cool.
I hope it will fit your needs ;)For the nrf24 version, I just need to add few silkscreen, and it's ok to upload, it's the same version, only rerouted a bit differently at radio side.
don't worry no need of a reflow oven, just a fine solder iron. but I agree, sometimes because I feel something easy I think it's easy for other..
That's why I will ask pcbway for the PCBA and I will ask my regular fabhouse too.
I am thinking :- only pcb
- only smd parts soldered, up to us to source others component like relays, radio etc..
- full assembled. curious to see the cost.
On my side, I can do very small batch sometimes. like 10-20 boards. But I live in France, so, for far country it may be not interesting regarding shipping fees etc
I'm also actually working on release for others boards..I need to sort all my stuff, to have more air for software and new hardware.. :)
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@Nca78
wow! cool.
I hope it will fit your needs ;)For the nrf24 version, I just need to add few silkscreen, and it's ok to upload, it's the same version, only rerouted a bit differently at radio side.
don't worry no need of a reflow oven, just a fine solder iron. but I agree, sometimes because I feel something easy I think it's easy for other..
That's why I will ask pcbway for the PCBA and I will ask my regular fabhouse too.
I am thinking :- only pcb
- only smd parts soldered, up to us to source others component like relays, radio etc..
- full assembled. curious to see the cost.
On my side, I can do very small batch sometimes. like 10-20 boards. But I live in France, so, for far country it may be not interesting regarding shipping fees etc
I'm also actually working on release for others boards..I need to sort all my stuff, to have more air for software and new hardware.. :)
@scalz in fact je suis FranΓ§ais ;)
Do you think you can have one board ready in around a month time ? I'll have family coming from France at the end of september so I can give you an address in France where to send the board :)I'm pretty sure I'll be ok with smd after some time, but I'm just not ready yet. I have bought some kits to train before I try before I do it on real boards/components.
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@Nca78 hehe. that's what I thought first time i saw your nick, don't tell me why maybe the 78 :) that's fun.
I will see. this is nrf24 board you want, isn't it? I have no of these in stock but I have an order of multiple pcb to do this week. so I will buy a set. I will use DHL..not so patient when there are new boards to try :) So I will tell you what I can do..
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@Nca78 hehe. that's what I thought first time i saw your nick, don't tell me why maybe the 78 :) that's fun.
I will see. this is nrf24 board you want, isn't it? I have no of these in stock but I have an order of multiple pcb to do this week. so I will buy a set. I will use DHL..not so patient when there are new boards to try :) So I will tell you what I can do..
@scalz If you are not ready with the NRF24 version I will be fine with a RFM version, I'll just build a RFM gateway it's not a big deal, and I'll have no excuse not to try all those nice boards with RFM69 that are on openhardware ;)
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nrf24 smd version is uploaded. Have fun
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@Scalz : Hello, what a great job ! it's exactly the thing i'm trying to do since few months. But severe issues with relay and my 220v rolling shutters. Actually, the relays freeze sometimes and stay glue to a position. I read a lot about the inductive load and snubber, but i'm a newbie with electronics. I tried differents relays : from blue one classic to APF30205, but always fails.
Did you encounter problem with your OMRON G5Q ? Is the varistor the solution or it's only for other purpose (security,...). Here is my project https://github.com/coxifred/PimpMyCeliane/wiki
Thanks for you response, and congratulations (twice). -
@coxifred
Hello. sorry for delay..busy time..
I already did my design when I saw your build. But I preferred to not use wifi for rollershutter..If you're newbie in electronics, be careful with AC and your motors ;)
- I don't see any safety on your build..
- seems your relays are in //, so not interlocked. Better in serie, so you can't do UP & DOWN at same time. Not a problem in software, but if parasitic problems, then it could happen.
I have no problem with my relays but I have only tried on a somfy motor, and another old blind motor.
Relay can stay glued because of multiple reasons, not easy to debug at distance ;)
- EMI parasites etc... esp8266, especially nodemcu module could be sensitive. And lot of wire etc near AC lines etc is a nasty combo. this would not pass EMI tests!
- So, at relay input : EMI for instance or, I don't know if your relay module has this, but that's better to use relay driver or at least some diode. . It can avoid improves false things on relay input.
- If you're sure you have no problem on relay driver/transistor side, then it can be at output. It can be stayed glue in inductive overload for instance. If bad quality relay. If relay is good quality. Perhaps you need an additional snubber. Which is why I have oversized my relays (10Amp).
Maybe I have missed few others points, but I hope that will help you :)
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@scalz : Thanks for your response. For me all eletronic/software before output is ok. I tried with simple bulbs, works every time, no glue. The problem appears only with rolling shutter motors (wich are not somfy, but 220v). I think i need a snubber (for inductive overload ) but don't know how to wire it at the output, and wich model. I'll buy your relay model and test again. Perhaps i was not lucky with my relay. I even buyed a Chacon/DIO (433) rolling shutter module to see what kind of relay are they using. I have to take a voltage measure on the (chacon) input's relay, not node, too much time:)
Thanks 4 your response.