I'm looking for a person to collaborate on writing an FW for the UMI6R2 board in the Arduino IDE.

First batch of devices arrived. Looks fine. I hope I will manage to install it in garden to the end of the week.

@openhardware-io Hi: (Please direct to Feanor-Anglin if possible) I previously ordered some 4RelayDIN PCBs off openhardware.io and got v1.6 PCBs but the info on the site I found is only for an earlier version of the PCB board. I am trying to build some of the boards but there are additional compomemts on the newer PCB board. The main one which looks to be a driver IC. Would you please share the updated information with me or perhaps update the openhardware.io site. Many thanks, Rod

Sorry for the delay first of all, unfortunately I didn't get the notification of this thread If you are using a latching relay I'd recommend using SensorLatchingRelay1Pin or SensorLatchingRelay2Pins which should take better all the aspects of a latching relay. Then you can still use the safeguard for closing the door after a given timeframe. And yes you have to set a reporting interval even if not intuitive at all. This is because the safeguard is checked in the loop cycle which is called only if a reporting interval is set. So if you have a safeguard set to 1 minute, the report interval should be 1 minute or less. Thanks!

Hello Berk, Is it possible for you to share your schematic for this project please? especially the power part?

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

@dzungpham0703 I buy them on Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180706102504&SearchText=HTTM If you apply hot air it is easy to take off the white "double sided tape" and the plastic.

@Jonathan-Roberts said in Simple AC/DC Switch WeMos: @nca78 bummer. So I think 2 options... What if the Wemos is raised off the PCB. That would be almost 5/8". In your experience would that help? And maybe the best option, slide the antenna module straight down,. move the relay up and spin it around so the connections are on the outside edge. I'm trying to make this multi-purpose and allowing both headers to be fully functional to other projects. thx for the advise. 1 would help but not that much. It's already not a good thing to have the transformer just next to it on the side, so you should avoid blocking one more direction with tracks. I don't understand your necessity to have connectors available for something else on the relay that is too high to put anything on top ? 2 sounds like a much better option, make sure you have nothing right and left of the antenna when you move things around. The problem you will have with this layout is the USB in that situation... It doesn't sound like a great idea to me to use Wemos on this board especially for the relay part, it's just a cheap chinese relay with 3/4 components so why not just put them directly on you board to make the layout so much easier ? I have the feeling that you're trying to make things "easier" by using Wemos and its shields, but in the end you seem to lose more than you gain. And neither does it seem "safer" to use their relay shield as it forces you to have extra wires between main of the HLK and relay shield connector.

If you can figure out a way to control them maybe using an optocoupler, it could be an option

Hi @blackchart, Unfortunately, all devices are sold out. Further production is possible only when ordering more than 10 devices (in this case, I also can modify the device to suit your needs).

@zmatokan said in NModule: @Nca78 Are you still working on this pcbs? i think it would be great to add a version that supports HiLink 220ac->5dc module on powerboard. No I'm not working on NModules anymore, I have a few old nodes using atmega/nrf24 but I switched to NRF5 for "basic" nodes now, and to ESP32 for more "advanced" stuff. NModule was designed for beginner and simple/riskless use, so I don't think adding high voltage option is a great idea, it's better to use an external power supply and connect the output to the powerboard.

Ah.... Ok

I liked domoticz (was very easy to set up and use). Together with dzVents scripting wasn't that difficult either. But I also had some problem with it lately, so I was actually thinking about switching to openhab (2).

@Samuel235 said in Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module: OMRON G3MB-202P Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component. I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection. I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ). The most important information is the melting integral. The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia. So we need any further information about: the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses) the melting integral from the device which we want to protect the maximum voltage the maximum switching current the breaking capacity Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know) Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are: from 25 to 100 A²s 230 V AC 16 A So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values: 230 V AC 2 A maximum switching current I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here) The fuse have to be: I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection rating voltage over 230 V AC rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A) a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time. And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available. If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2). And the temperature fuse can work for all components too So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01. I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?

Hi, I finally received the boards from the manufacturer(big thanks to @Seeed-Fusion). I manage to assemble one board by soldering the components and such and...it WORKS(including OTA)! I will post the instructions on openhardware.io project page.

Hi, did you assembled the board and tested it? I am thinkiing of making some of them, is there something I should watch out for? Thanks!

The send-function is used to send updates to the controller, in your case the physical-button-switch-change. Doing the send, does not control anything on the node itself.

@nicomedia I stumbled on this doing a google search. Just wondering if you are still trying to get your Sonoff's working with your Vera controller? If so, I have written a blog post on the subject. It uses a different firmware called ESP Easy and an HTTP Switch plugin on the Vera rather than MySensors. but it works rather well for me. Here is the link to the blog post: https://dan.bemowski.info/2017/07/04/using-a-sonoff-with-espeasy-and-vera/ I use this in conjunction with some MySensors wall switches that I built. https://dan.bemowski.info/2017/06/11/my-start-into-open-source-hardware/

Hi @koresh - I had a little accident on the AC side :-). I was wondering what values the 2 resistors (TH and SMD) and diode are ? Thanks!

That's cool, just thought I would throw it into the pot. I don't use OpenHAB so can't be of much help there i'm afraid.

Do you really need a compact device?

The updates have been applied to Rev 2, below we have a list of everything that has been added/modified; Modification footprint for 3 items to make it easier to mount (Slow blow fuse, Thermal Fuse and Voltage Regulator) when hand soldering. Modification to nRF24L01+ Module to remove the short to ground on VCC line. Added the additional silkscreen labeling that was missed off by accident. This should be all that is needed for Rev 2 to be a successor to the Rev 1. We still have the issue with having to use pogo pins to program through the ISP connection, or to temporarily solder jumper wire into the 6 pin connection while uploading, then everything else can be programmed through the on-board FTDI connection. Will get the gerber files generated ASAP and then get them sent off for testing production runs.

Or even this MOSFET and it would seem this is the datasheet after a quick google.

@yury said in Wall Socket Insertable Node: Looks cool! Do you have experience with capacities switches? I did not play much with them. afraid to use close to AC interference though... You need to use a capacitive IC with active shielding, basically you have an extra electrode around your touch electrode and the touch IC will compare capacitive change of the touch electrode with capacitive change from the shield electrode. If the change is due to electrical interference then both electrodes will be changed in a similar way and the IC will not trigger.

Good to know, indeed my setup is working now with stable libraries thanks to this helpful community. I'll go back later to development libraries to see if I'm able to work with it as well.

Hi, nice projet. I am very interested in it. But why you are using 5 V and not 3.3 V? The ATmea328 works with 3.3 V too and the NRF have to use 3.3 V. The only restriction on 3.3 V is the clock limitation for the Atmega (8 MHz). But with no crystal it don't care. For example you could use an HLK-PM03 instead of HLK-PM01 and remove the linear voltage regulator. So you get more space an everything have the same voltage level. And another point is, it is recommended to use a capacitor (0.1 µF) to ground for each voltage pin (Vcc, Avcc, Aref).

My current roller roller Shutter switch are two pushed buttons up and down. No stop button. When release the push button up or down, the shutter will stop. WIll it be compatible with this board or will i have to change the buttons ?

@drock1985 I guess your switch string should be as follows, #Switches (Lights) switch 1: platform: mqtt state_topic: "mygateway1-out/2/1/1/0/2" command_topic: "mygateway1-in/2/1/1/0/2" name: "test1" payload_on: "1" payload_off: "0"

@Alphalove I highly recommend itead products, especially for those just getting into MySensors. They remove alot of the pitfalls that electronic noobs (such as myself) encounter when building their first sensor nodes. I used the RMini to build my first relay and it could not have been easier. Many of the troubleshooting problems posted on the forum have to do with setting up relays and these boards eliminate many of those issues. I also recommend the nano shield from itead to any entry level electronics noobs for setting up early sensor nodes who are not ready for intricate soldering. It provides a nRf socket and a power jack and breaks out all of the nano pins with individual power and ground headers. Just plug in a nano and nRf and program from USB and power the entire setup through a single jack - perfect for beginners.

Thanks for this input, please can you share which kind of relay i have to use ?

The distance sensor is supported in the beta version of Domoticz

@kunall , do you have a wiring diagram for this? I am having some issues with my relay module (but i think this is to do with it being 3.3v)

@dias I want a code with 2 relays and 2 pir You got to get started coding then If you bump into problem you can ask questions here.

@hek said: Does the repeater send any sensor data itself? The dashboard "last update" only reflect data coming from the repeater. No, all it is is a repeater. The only node that could send its signal through it is my doorbell which won't send anything until the doorbell is pressed, so I guess that all makes sense. I only have one sensor that is communicating all the time, which is my garage door switch which also sends temp values. The funny thing is that it is this switch that is the most reliable and ALWAYS works the instant I ask it to. the relay switches that I have turning operating some lights, that is the only thing I have them doing and there are times that I am having to repeatedly press there button on the dashboard to finally get the relay to work.

I need your help pls

@gadu String totalProjectSuccess = itWorks + wifeIsHappy;

@Shivanand-Chanderbally I recently finished a node using the acs712 and found it to be very sensitive to nearby magnetic fields. It is best to have it as far away from these as you can.

@BulldogLowell Yes, all is working, thanks. If you want to use this code for reference it is fully functional.

@C.r.a.z.y. yeah.... those are VERY bouncy. are you interrupt triggering or just using a state change? post your code, let's make sure you have it de-bounced enough.

@Dwalt oh wow.. thanks so much.. i was waiting for you to get back to me but never saw this post.. and i just happened to stumble on it when i was looking to see if you had been back on the forum or not. I'm good with the hardware side of things and can shell script and do windows scripting. but still have not learned this coding yet. i have all the hardware for the 433 stuff. i even got the RF stuff to work (on my RPI2) and sniffed all my codes i could just never get it to work with my arduino stuff. likely the code, so i'm excited to give your code a go. Thanks!

I have it ,look to my project.. project from example directory working .. but if power on node then register to gateway but not send actual state of relay .. I do it ..

Hi again I think so to, here is the new code. Scene_Controller_6_buttons_and_5_Relays.ino I reduced the relays to 3, and all the devices is in vera, but the relay status update is stile slow / not happing The scene controller has now child id = 0 and the relays 1-3.

Be aware that sensor need to have 20 consecutive failed transmissions before starting to look for a new relaying node.