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  3. How to power 5V sensor?

How to power 5V sensor?

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  • P Offline
    P Offline
    peerv
    wrote on last edited by peerv
    #1

    Re: Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors

    Hi all,
    Can somebody give me a tip on how to get 5V for the Distance Sensor on the Rev9 EasyPCB with 3.3V Arduino with battery power.
    Use power booster?

    sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • P peerv

      Re: Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors

      Hi all,
      Can somebody give me a tip on how to get 5V for the Distance Sensor on the Rev9 EasyPCB with 3.3V Arduino with battery power.
      Use power booster?

      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84
      Hardware Contributor
      wrote on last edited by sundberg84
      #2

      @peerv - well, if you have a 3.3v arduino - why power it with 5v? Do you have a sensor that req. this?
      I would power everything with 5v from a USB adapter and use a voltage regulater on the PCB for 3.3v

      Edit... missed distance sensor.

      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • gohanG Offline
        gohanG Offline
        gohan
        Mod
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        I guess the booster could be necessary

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        0
        • P Offline
          P Offline
          peerv
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          Thanks, but..... need to power it with batteries!
          What is the best approach to get 5V for the Distance Sensor?

          M zboblamontZ 2 Replies Last reply
          0
          • P peerv

            Thanks, but..... need to power it with batteries!
            What is the best approach to get 5V for the Distance Sensor?

            M Offline
            M Offline
            manutremo
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            @peerv if you really really need to use that combination of 3.3v arduino and 5v sensor + battery, you'll probably need a step up booster. The problem with normal boosters is that they consume energy constantly so they may reduce the life of your battery. I'm not sure they exist but you may want to search for low quiescent current step up. If i remember well, pololu had some of those; some models include enable pins, so you could just switch the sensor off when not needed. I usually find the pololus on ebay.

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            • P peerv

              Thanks, but..... need to power it with batteries!
              What is the best approach to get 5V for the Distance Sensor?

              zboblamontZ Offline
              zboblamontZ Offline
              zboblamont
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              @peerv As @manutremo pointed out, these boosters use power, even when enable is switched down. The trick for battery power is to cut all but the basic standby power.
              Having already gone through this evolution for a 5v ultrasonic, in my own case the solution was a 3v dual coil latching dpdt relay switched by two mosfets, requiring two pins to switch on and off. This offered switching of 5v power for the US on one contact, and 3v for the level converter on the other. The beauty of these small signal relays is the fast on/off times, and zero power consumption when latched in on/off.
              I used separate battery packs for the node supply and the 5v circuit....

              sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • gohanG Offline
                gohanG Offline
                gohan
                Mod
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                you could also use a 5V battery pack and use an LDO to power the 3.3v arduino

                1 Reply Last reply
                1
                • zboblamontZ zboblamont

                  @peerv As @manutremo pointed out, these boosters use power, even when enable is switched down. The trick for battery power is to cut all but the basic standby power.
                  Having already gone through this evolution for a 5v ultrasonic, in my own case the solution was a 3v dual coil latching dpdt relay switched by two mosfets, requiring two pins to switch on and off. This offered switching of 5v power for the US on one contact, and 3v for the level converter on the other. The beauty of these small signal relays is the fast on/off times, and zero power consumption when latched in on/off.
                  I used separate battery packs for the node supply and the 5v circuit....

                  sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  @zboblamont - I have made some test with a 3.3v node and power to a 5v booster coming from a digital pin from the MCU. This pin can be turn off when not used, but I dont have any long term results... its truly a diy hack and there probably are 100 things that could go wrong with this setup.

                  A 5v sensor with a 3.3v node/battery is a hard one!

                  Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                  RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                  zboblamontZ 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • sundberg84S sundberg84

                    @zboblamont - I have made some test with a 3.3v node and power to a 5v booster coming from a digital pin from the MCU. This pin can be turn off when not used, but I dont have any long term results... its truly a diy hack and there probably are 100 things that could go wrong with this setup.

                    A 5v sensor with a 3.3v node/battery is a hard one!

                    zboblamontZ Offline
                    zboblamontZ Offline
                    zboblamont
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    @sundberg84 The only problem I found was a lack of available pins on the particular node type I selected due to onboard RTC and RFM69. I haven't decided yet whether to release additional pins by removing LEDs or switches.
                    0_1509441063360_WP_20170902_13_56_09_Pro.jpg
                    Top is the WhisperNode, below it the logic converter, left to right the ultrasonic, the booster and the relay board.
                    I had initially bought single coil latching relays, but this required an H bridge which posed issues. The dual coil relay solved the problem with mosfets driven from two pins.
                    Unfortunately I forgot that two pins I used for Trigger and Echo were needed by the RTC version, so not sure now whether to use the WhisperNode as a I2C receiver transmitter and have a 5v pro-mini cover the ultrasonic and the adjacent gas meter...

                    sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • zboblamontZ zboblamont

                      @sundberg84 The only problem I found was a lack of available pins on the particular node type I selected due to onboard RTC and RFM69. I haven't decided yet whether to release additional pins by removing LEDs or switches.
                      0_1509441063360_WP_20170902_13_56_09_Pro.jpg
                      Top is the WhisperNode, below it the logic converter, left to right the ultrasonic, the booster and the relay board.
                      I had initially bought single coil latching relays, but this required an H bridge which posed issues. The dual coil relay solved the problem with mosfets driven from two pins.
                      Unfortunately I forgot that two pins I used for Trigger and Echo were needed by the RTC version, so not sure now whether to use the WhisperNode as a I2C receiver transmitter and have a 5v pro-mini cover the ultrasonic and the adjacent gas meter...

                      sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84
                      Hardware Contributor
                      wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                      #10

                      @zboblamont - I can see your strugle, and Im not sure if I would think its worth it. The amount of work and troubleshooting compared to building a 5v Pro mini? The only downside are that you need a powersupply (like a phonecharger) nearby.

                      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                      zboblamontZ 1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • P Offline
                        P Offline
                        peerv
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #11

                        Thanks guys, enough challenges to think about!

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • sundberg84S sundberg84

                          @zboblamont - I can see your strugle, and Im not sure if I would think its worth it. The amount of work and troubleshooting compared to building a 5v Pro mini? The only downside are that you need a powersupply (like a phonecharger) nearby.

                          zboblamontZ Offline
                          zboblamontZ Offline
                          zboblamont
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #12

                          @sundberg84 The details and methods to release additional pins are all in the documentation, so not a problem, however my original idea was to have capability to swap over devices, hence my reluctance to do surgery.

                          Low energy use info is plentiful on the 5v pro-mini, the booster is the PIA for low energy, so that will probably be relay controlled in any instance...

                          A steep but interesting learning experience...

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