Best 3d printers

[bjacobse]

@crumpy10
Looks like your skirt are fine (The round first prints) but inside your print you get to little PLA through your nozzle
is temperature correct?
is is a good source from PLA? or is it that came along the 3D printer, then swap and use new PLA
If you have Bowden extruder, is it extruding correctly? maybe the gear slips
And then maybe is your bed 100% calibrated?

I don't think your nozzle is clogged as the skirt looks ok

[bjacobse]

@alowhum
NO it can't be used as 3D printer, it's not accurate enough
QA from their homepage:
Would it be possible to place circuit components on circuit boards using this arm or does it not have enough precision?

Yes, the repeatability is 0.2mm, This is enough for PCB soldering.

My 3D printer, zonestar 802 have this accuracy:
XY-Axis Positioning Accuracy: 0.012mm

[alowhum]

@bjacobse thanks!

[bjacobse]

@crumpy10
Try FIRST to level your bed - PLA can't stick to air if you have too much distance between nozzlehead and bed.

[vseprosto90211]

I like Monoprice's Maker Select Plus, because it proves the fact that you don't need to spend a fortune to buy a good 3D printer. It has a large build area, a heated bed and can handle lots of different materials. Maybe you should also pay attention to this one.

[NeverDie]

@Crumpy10 said in Best 3d printers:

But could someone tell me what causes this?

Your print head is too high: you need more "squish" on the first layer. Evidence: the print lines need to meld into one another without gaps between them and be flatter than what your picture shows. Running a calibration should fix this, though you can also do an "on the fly" adjustment if you notice it starting badly, generally when printing the skirt.

I have a Prusa 3 modded to use an all copper heatpath so that it can print faster than the stock version. An Ender 3 seems perfectly good though, and for the same money you can own more than one and parallel print. :eye:

If I were to upgrade further I'd build an enclosure to make it quieter and run some kind of hepa carbon air filter on it to minimize emissions, regardless of what brand I owned. The last I checked (around a year or so ago) there weren't any good kits for that except for one that was priced sky high for schools or corporate use.

[alowhum]

@alowhum said in Best 3d printers:

https://www.cnx-software.com/2019/04/22/zonestar-z6-entry-level-portable-3d-printer/

I bought the Ender 3 (non-pro). It's my first 3D printer. So far it's great. I'm going to add an Mini E3 board to decrease the high-pitched noise from the stepper motors. I also bought a $9 3D Touch, a fake BLTouch, for auto bed levelling. Although it's not really needed? The bed has remained stable. Then I'll install that following this guide.

I've also used a Pi Zero W I had lying around to install Octoprint. No more hassle with SD cards. There's even a plugin called "Spaghetti Detective" that uses machine learning to watch webcam images of your print being made. If your print goes wrong, it automatically stops it.

[dzjr]

MySensors Friends,

I also plan to finally purchase a 3D printer.

What do you recommend for a beginner right now?

What do I want to make?
Enclosures for sensors.
small parts .
and who knows what else in the future.

So I am looking for a 3D printer that I can gain experience with as a beginner.
  not too small, maintenance friendly, but that does not mean that I do not want to carry out maintenance.

I don't really know yet what material I want to print with, what is the best and most versatile material to start with?

Thank you in advance for your advice and thinking along.

dzjr

[pptacek]

@dzjr it depends what do you need it for. This is my 2 cents on 3d printing at the moment.

If you need to print something small with high detail, get an SLA printer like Elegoo Mars. It is cheap, easy to understand and resolution is amazing. Prints out of the box, but it is messy and smelly.

Otherwise:

1. You are a complete noob, you have no clue how that stuff works, you just want to print. Get Prusa and print PLA. Basic printer, not great but reliable and great company support and great community.
2. You are a complete noob on a budget but willing to learn. Get Ender 3 and print PLA. It is basic, cheap, but gets a job done. Community support is great, but expect you will have to tinker with the printer.
3. You are a moderately experienced in tech and you need a workhorse. Get FlashForge Creator Pro or similar and print PLA, PETG or even ABS. Community support is great, that thing is an older design but it just works.
4. You are moderately experienced, with special (tinkering) demands. Here it gets very personal. There is a bunch of RepRap style printers with a moving bed (which I hate). There are some deltas (why??) and there is growing number of CoreXY printers of various sizes (Two Tree, Elf, Tronxy...). I would probably go that route. Stick with PLA and PETG.
5. Geek with time, resources, and curiosity. Build your own CoreXY printer. Voron, Railcore, etc. Print what you want.

I skipped 1) and 2) and went through 3) - 5). I personally own Elegoo, FlashForge CP, Elf, and CoreXY of my own design.

[alowhum]

@dzjr have a look here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/gdbu1o/purchase_advice_megathread_what_to_buy_who_to_buy/

I think the 'consensus' is that these are the beginner printers to go for currently:

Under $200
Ender 3. It's recommended as a cheap beginners machine. This does not have any automation features though, such as automatic bed levelling, detecting if your fillament runs out, etc. Although you can add those if you want. It's also quite noisy.

Above $200
For a more hassle free experience I believe the Prusa i3 Mk3S is the recommended one to go for. It's more expensive of course, but you get a lot of that automation.

It also depends on what material you want to print. Woodgrain filament cannot be used with the Ender's default extruder, for example, it will damage it. Something worth checking before purchase is it it can print flexible filament. That stuff is amazing! In general it seems ABS filament has become very unpopular.

Don't worry too much about things like touch screens. You'll likely want to get a Raspberry Pi and install Octoprint on it. That way you can send prints to your printer and monitor its progress without having to babysit it. You don't want to be sitting next to those fumes and the noise all the time.

Also don't worry about flexible removable magnetic printer beds. From what I can tell glass beds offer the best quality for things like PLA, which is what you'll most likely be printing in generally.

Whatever you do, go for a printer that has a large community of users. If you go on websites like Thingiverse you'll immediately notice which printers are popular. If you look at the most popular new 3D print designs you'll currently find a lot of Ender specific creations.

[akyle32]

Im using the Monoprice 3D Printer the price is below $200. I bought it a few months ago so Im not sure what its price today. 3d printing is a really fun hobby. If you need more 3d printer options, you should check out this website.

[dzjr]

@pptacek
Thank you for your response to my message,
It took a little longer on this side because my work took a lot of time this week.

1 & 2 will not apply to me either, I may not have 3D printing experience, but I have enough technical skills to adjust and assemble something, but I don't want to be able to print something first. half an hour to adjust everything.

So if I see your message like this, it would end up on the Ender 3 (Pro?) Or the Flashforge Creator Pro.
I was thinking of max € 500 myself, but is it worth the price difference of about € 400?

Ender 3 = € 180
Ender 3-Pro = € 235
Flashforge Creater Pro = 625

[dzjr]

@alowhum

Thank you for your response to my message,
It took a little longer on this side because my work took a lot of time this week.

I have read through part of the link, and keep reading that the Ender-3 (pro) would be the best choice?

Of the Prusa i3, I read on the Dutch platform Tweakers.net that there are some safety aspects, so would the power supply not be fireproof?

So if I see your message like this it would end up on the Ender 3 (Pro?)
Also thanks to @pptacek's response

How did you mean the touch screen? do you mean that you actually have to replace the controller with a Raspberry pi?

[alowhum]

Of the Prusa i3, I read on the Dutch platform Tweakers.net that there are some safety aspects, so would the power supply not be fireproof?

I haven't read that, but I haven't looked into the Prusa deeply. I bought the Ender 3 because of its price to performance ratio.

I wondered if I should get the Ender 3 pro. The only thing it really added that I wanted is a better power supply. But since it doesn't really impact anything, and you can always upgrade later, I decided to go with the normal Ender.

How did you mean the touch screen? do you mean that you actually have to replace the controller with a Raspberry pi?

No, I mean that some 3D printers come with fancy touch screen interfaces. The way you normally use them is that you put a file on an SD card, put that SD card in the printer, and then use the on device interface to start the print.

But you can also connect a Raspberry Pi to your printer (it has a USB port), and then it can control the printer. Once you do that, you can start, stop and follow prints through a web interface. No more hassle with SD cards. It's something you will want.

I use a 10 euro Raspberry Pi Zero W for this.

[dzjr]

@alowhum

I also think I'm going to buy an Ender-3,
The difference between the 3 and the 3-Pro turns out not to be very big, in this video they tell the differences.

If I would like to have a larger / other later, the costs are manageable, I think ....
Or is the Flashforge Creator really worth the extra money (my dad wants to contribute too)?

Thank you for explaining the Raspberry Pi addition,
I have already seen a tutorial how it works, I still have a Pi-3 and Pi-2, which I can use nicely, also in combination with a camera.

[alowhum]

Go for the Ender. It has wide support. You'll love it. Later you can always sell it second hand - precisely because it's such a popular machine.

[pptacek]

@dzjr difference between Ender & FFCP is huge. Let me point out the most important once:

1. Enclosed build volume. You can print ABS, ASA, HIPS, PC, or any other "engineering" materials which shrink a lot and they WILL delaminate if printed on something like Ender.
2. Two extruders mean you can print support structures using soluble filaments. That will give you an advantage in printing complex parts.
3. Z only moves up. Let it sink for a bit. On the Ender, you are moving the entire mass of the print with every Y move. It is a terrible concept and only works for tiny printers.

I understand why people like small RepRap printers (Ender). They are cheap, simple, easy to understand, and easy to fix. But they have serious limits which some people are underplaying. RepRap printers, in general, can never achieve higher print quality than gantry or corexy printers. It is simple physics. Enclosed, they take prohibitive amounts of space compare to their build volume, etc ...

I'm not saying they are bad. Just know your limits. Ender is great if you are on a budget.
Good luck!

Edit: It is also important to mention, that getting "a printer" to where you want it to be, usually costs at least the same amount as the printer itself. So if you buy € 235 printer, expect to spend another ~€ 250 to do upgrades (PEI build surface, better extruder, better hotend, BL-touch, stiffening brackets, ... list never ends). This is not a cheap hobby, really.

[dzjr]

@pptacek Thank you,

Clear explanation, it certainly has an important difference.

Do you think I have to pay a significant amount for the FFCP to improve it?

I had more or less opted for the Ender-3, but I can still opt for the FFCP ...

I understand that it is not a cheap hobby, hence the question of what is the best buy for me as a start.

[pptacek]

@dzjr To be completely fair, there is one big downside of the FFCP and it is the control board. FFCP is running an 8-bit MightyBoard (MakerBot board) clone which is running Sailfish firmware. That FW is great for what it does on 8-bit UC, but that era is now gone. I still have it, I still use it, but there is and won't be any new development. So sooner or later, you would likely have to replace it with something else.

So, unless you really need to print ABS, ASA, PC, Nylon, or other "hard" stuff, my suggestion is to go with Ender with an open mind (and side budget) that you will do updates. This will get you into the 3d printing quickly and you will learn some valuable lessons without wasting much money. If you find out you like it and you "need some more", I strongly suggest you go for good CoreXY experience.

If you know you need to print for outdoors (ASA) or you will be doing some engineering parts from ABS, PC, or Nylon, forget about Ender and start saving for something better.

[dzjr]

@pptacek

Than i will order the Ender-3!

maybe when i will buy another printer later, but we will see.