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Which presentation to use for a Turbidity Sensor?

Shiny Hardware Contributor last edited by

I'm using this analog sensor: https://www.dfrobot.com/product-1394.html

and I saw there's a S_WATER_QUALITY
but I'm not sure what V_ to use.

The sensor basically measures how transparent the liquid is, to detect if gunk is growing in your water tank or pipe.
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@TheoL Not only did I put in delays, too, but I put in delays that were based upon the ID (which was stored in NVRAM)! This helped. caveat: This is probably not accurate be helps to explain the challenges with a large network. My initial experience with Arduino/nRF24 was using the libraries from TMRh20. Those libraries allowed a node to be a repeater, but only for 6 nodes. The primary node 0, master, only allowed 6 nodes to connect to it. The nodes connected to it also allowed 6 nodes. Subsequent nodes had to go through one of these repeating nodes. But the depth was only 4 deep. The master assigned node IDs if the node didn't already have one; similar to a MAC address. The master also kept track of the addresses (ARP table?). Addresses were 4 octets (base in the form of D/C/B/A. A node connected directly to the master had an address of 0/0/0/a (where 0/0/0/0 was reserved for the master). A node connected through another node had an address of 0/0/b/a, and so forth. But what happens is that a parent node has to mange the data from all its child nodes and their child nodes and their child nodes. Thus a node would get so bogged down dealing with this traffic that it din't do its sensor task very well. It is my belief that MySensors either uses TMRh20's libraries or has developed some aspects based on his initial work. I see that that TMRh20 has a version 2 and I have not experimented with it. I did find that MySensors worked better than version 1. Thus, my curiosity. I am also duly impressed at the magnitude of hardware. Currently a nano like device from Aliexperss is US$2-3, nRF24 ~ US$1, power supply ~ US$1.50, power cord ?, case?, sensors!? While the hardware cost is daunting, even with a PCB it's a lot of work building those up. So, yeah, I'm impressed! -OSD
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I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome
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Hello all, I studied a little bit more this part of the circuit and it's a standard self oscillating flyback converter or a ringing choke converter as others call it. Indeed it provides the most compact solution for space constrained designs. But all of this comes at a cost: it's difficult to obtain a stable circuit and it has to be tuned by trial and error - at least this is what the literature says. I'm not a switching power supplies expert here(even though I want to learn more about SMPS's in general but my time is limited for now) but I've come to a conclusion: it's difficult to tune this or to change the existing circuit to accommodate the mysensors circuits power requirements. I tried various combinations using sleep schemes and to change the flyback converter components as other mentioned in the mysensors forum and indeed I can power up my custom design that is presented in this thread BUT it's NOT STABLE. From time to time the switching transistor(mje13003) burns out and this is because I removed the resistor placed at the input of this power supply - near the bridge rectifier and replaced it with a wire(this is not the same resistor as @Lukaspp replaced from the base of the transistor which is the startup resistor for the flyback converter). Now the only purpose that I imagine for this resistor is to suppress the transients - but it has a big value(100Kohm) which limits the current to a non-usable value for our purpose. I know that there are other solutions to overcome the transients but they are either bulky or too slow for this(correct me if I'm wrong here). More than that let's not forget that we have 2 power supplies here and when the lights go on the first supply(flyback) input gets shorted by the relays contact(I have the relays variant btw not the one with triac) so I'm thinking that other transients appear here as the primary inductor doesn't like that as far as I know - so I assume the above mentioned resistor of 100Kohm comes into play here too. Another role for it would be to limit the inrush currents. I played with that value too but it needs to be very low to have something stable and I got a value around 200ohms but that doesn't help as it's too low and after some time the resistor burned up and saved my transistor :simple_smile: . Now with all the tricks in the world and tuning the flyback converter to give more current this won't help as again let's not forget we have a SERIES circuit here so without external intervention we can't achieve that(only if we break somehow the laws of physics or maybe my thinking is limited :simple_smile: ). In this case the external capacitor placed across the light bulb comes into play to supply enough current to the standby circuit which is our flyback converter over here. I played with that one too and from 0,47uF I got to 4.7uF to have a decent result - but this one gets bulky and more expensive from obvious reasons. And let's not forget that the light bulb itself has some impact overall because this is the actual LOAD that we want to control and there are various light bulbs over there with various requirements. More than that they have their power supply embedded which in most of the cases is a(you guessed maybe): a self oscillating FLYBACK CONVERTER or similar. So this one too has inrush currents, transients which are sensed down the line to our dear Livolo switch and affects my custom board stability again :simple_smile: - isn't life beautiful? :simple_smile: So far these are the results of my trials and none of them proved to be stable so I kinda gave up on this and will try to use a normal powering scheme somehow(as Sonoff switches with a battery powered touch switch on the wall). Not the best solution of all but this is what you get when the infrastructure wasn't thought for this scenarios from the beginning. The Livolo guys thought of all of this I assume so that's why they stayed only with a simple circuit - a PIC mcu which maybe sleeps most of the time and a simple radio receiver which draws around 5mA or even less - so yeah that's why this works and it's stable in its original form.
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Chur.
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I recently build successfully a mysensor node based on an Arduino Uno, a Robolink IR sensor and a Robolink DHT11 sensor. The last two from an Elektor sensor kit ever bought for my son when he was still interested by electronics . My controller is Home Assistant, so I did a merge of the given MySensors example sketch and the Home Assistant example sketch together with the DHT11 sketch. The airco is a Samsung one, so in the sketch you will find these defines uncommented. Replace by your airco manufacturer. People interested in building one, can find my sketch on https://github.com/ericvb/MySensorsArduinoSketches @ToniA a big thanks for the work to decode all these IR sequences!
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Which presentation to use for a Turbidity Sensor?

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Which presentation to use for a Turbidity Sensor?

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Running out of nodeId's General Discussion • mysensors • • NielBierman

💬 Easy Switch Box OpenHardware.io • mysensors arduino switch atmega328 lora low power • • openhardware.io

💬 Wireless Touch Switch: Triac Model - (For Livolo crystals) OpenHardware.io • mysensors nrf24l01 relay switch light atmega328p light switch livolo w25x40clsnig • • openhardware.io

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54Online

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Running out of nodeId's
General Discussion • mysensors • • NielBierman

💬 Easy Switch Box
OpenHardware.io • mysensors arduino switch atmega328 lora low power • • openhardware.io

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OpenHardware.io • mysensors nrf24l01 relay switch light atmega328p light switch livolo w25x40clsnig • • openhardware.io

💬 MySensors temperature sensor
OpenHardware.io • mysensors temperature • • openhardware.io

💬 RFM69 Livolo 2 channels 1 way EU switch(VL-C700X-1_Ver_C2)
OpenHardware.io • mysensors livolo • • openhardware.io

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OpenHardware.io • mysensors whareora • • openhardware.io

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