110v-230v AC to Mysensors PCB board

[krizzziz]

@cygnus said:

The board looks really nice! Just one question though; what about temperature protection? In this thread people talks about gluing a thermal fuse on top of the HLK-PM01, is that something you considered or do you think it's unnecessary?

Good point, been following this topic because of the other topic about the HLK-PM01 ad to dc regulator. And after extensive testing the outcome was that there should be added the thermal fuse because of additional safety. What do you all think?

[DrJeff]

@krizzziz
I have seen in some commercial wall switches thermal cutoff/fuses they are usually to the top of the offending (heat producing components) not necessarily directly touching. I have definitely added them to mine for peace of mind. Like this one:

http://i.imgur.com/rqOawGmm.jpg

Just make sure you heat sink when soldering them into place and check them after installation.

[korttoma]

@mvdarend said:

For anyone else that bought the 5.5v DC varistors from the given link, double check them before using them.

I wish I would have read this a week ago. Would have spared me from a "WTF!" moment.

[Quinie]

I'm trying to build this nice litte board. Got a long way but now i'm stuck.

The BOM for version 3.2.3
100nF + 100pF Capacitors
4.7uF Capacitors

Schematics.
c1 100nF
c2 100uF
c3 4.7uf

I'm don't have a lot of knowlegde but the 100uF seems te be missing from the BOM. The placement of this part is under the HLK. I have a lot of trouble place the C1 and C2.

I have a ceramic one with number 104 in C2. I thought this is the 100nF. So should it be in C1? But it's so small and nice. And then C2 is missing from the BOM and the only 100uF I have from an other project is big. It realy won't fit under the HLK.

Can some-one give some insight on the BOM, C1 and C2, Ceramic code numbers.
This would realy help me and maybe a few others.

Also on my board the holes for the fuse 2 where to small had to drill them out. Second the request for a thermal-fuse. But thanks for this great design.

[shabba]

What order did people solder the components on?

[shabba]

Anyone? The part list (ie mapping of CX etc) is in this post - not in the doc with the zip file so makes things very confusing.
Thanks.

[shabba]

@aproxx Could you clarify the capacitors please? C2 on a post in this thread is 100uF but there are hard to get as ceramics and even the half height ones I have make the arduino stand very high off the board.

Thanks muchly!

[AWI]

@shabba http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-lot-Multilayer-ceramic-capacitor-0-1uF-104-50V-100nF-104M/32429917283.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_7

you can solder these under the processor board

http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-100pcs-lot-100uF-16V-Electrolytic-Capacitor-16V-100UF-5x7mm-Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/32255105372.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_7

the 100uF does not have to be a ceramic one...

[shabba]

thanks for reply @AWI - The 100nf one does not go under - it is the 100uF one that does. I have a small electrolytic one (it is slightly smaller than the second link you mention) and there is still not enough space - my arduino is too low - I could try and find higher pin stands. I'm sure some ppl will go off and buy all these parts like me so I hope they are aware. Would have been ideal for a SMD really (like the varistor right beside it).

[AWI]

@shabba I don't have a 100uF capacitor under the Arduino and don't think there needs to be one... Take a look at the pictures. The two large 4.7 and 100 uF are next to the black box

[Quinie]

I still have trouble figuring out the C1 and C2. Here are some picture of my build so far.
Not sure all the components are placed correctly.

C1 is placed with a small 100nf (104) but BOM in zip say's this is wrong.
As you can see i placed this one, cause the 100uf will not fit

[AWI]

@Quinie looks correct. This is the position of the large capacitors (mind the polarity - minus to the edge of the board)

I also noticed you mounted the regulator correct. ;-)

[shabba]

So the regulator needs swapping about and the BOM cap values are incorrect from post (http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1540/110v-230v-ac-to-mysensors-pcb-board/37) above that states :::
C1 100nF capacitor
C2 100uF capacitor
C3 4.7uF capacitor

?

[bjornhallberg]

Hmmm. I got the 5.5V DC varistor from another AliExpress seller and I'm a bit puzzled as to why it starts smoking after a few seconds. Tried several of them. The HLK gives a solid 5V output. I'm assuming I got some lower voltage varistors by mistake?

[AWI]

@shabba Right... if you look at the schematics you can see that the two capacitors can be swapped without consequences

[m26872]

@bjornhallberg Maybe I've missed reading something, but why use a varistor for 5 Vdc and not a zener diode?

[shabba]

@AWI Thanks! Very true!

[bjornhallberg]

@m26872 You're probably right, I just followed the BOM. I'll see if I can stock up on some diodes from AliExpress for future use.

[korttoma]

Whould a 5.1V zener work?

edit: removed the link to the product so that no one would buy it the specs of it is to tight to be used with HLK.

[Cliff Karlsson]

Just a stupid question, the "G3MB-202P DC-AC PCB SSR In 5VDC,Out 240V AC 2A " What happens if I forget and plug something more power-hungry like a toaster or a microwave-owen? does any of the fuses blow or does the relay break ?