110v-230v AC to Mysensors PCB board
-
Another question about the thermal fuse. I might be wrong on this, but I guess its purpose is to break the power if the HLK overheats. But If placed in the intended place would not the PCB need to be on fire to have the thermal fuse be warmed up to 73 deg C?
-
Another question about the thermal fuse. I might be wrong on this, but I guess its purpose is to break the power if the HLK overheats. But If placed in the intended place would not the PCB need to be on fire to have the thermal fuse be warmed up to 73 deg C?
@Cliff-Karlsson said:
Another question about the thermal fuse. I might be wrong on this, but I guess its purpose is to break the power if the HLK overheats. But If placed in the intended place would not the PCB need to be on fire to have the thermal fuse be warmed up to 73 deg C?
I guess you're supposed to glue the thermal fuse to the hlk and run wires from this point to the designated footprint of the fuse on the pcb.
-
@Sefi-Ninio said:
Hi, @toabhishekverma
Well, your suggestion might work, I am not sure a switch that is meant to be connected to 220v mains can be connected to the gpio pin.I think, adding an additional relay to the pcb and allowing them both to behave like a 3way switch will allow for maximum flexibility.
- It could control 2 separate lamps
- It could behave like 2 3-way switches
- It could behave like a single 4-way switch
I would have done it myself, but I have no clue 😀
@aproxx , what do you think about adding another relay (for a total of 2 on board) and making them 3-way?
@Sefi-Ninio said:
@Sefi-Ninio said:
Hi, @toabhishekverma
Well, your suggestion might work, I am not sure a switch that is meant to be connected to 220v mains can be connected to the gpio pin.I think, adding an additional relay to the pcb and allowing them both to behave like a 3way switch will allow for maximum flexibility.
- It could control 2 separate lamps
- It could behave like 2 3-way switches
- It could behave like a single 4-way switch
I would have done it myself, but I have no clue 😀
@aproxx , what do you think about adding another relay (for a total of 2 on board) and making them 3-way?
OK Guys,
I've decided to try and use the original V3.2.3 plans and add another relay to them (with your permission, @aproxx).The board will have to be a bit bigger, I will have to make room for another relay along side the existing one, and I will have to also make room for its connectors.
Not a big problem, I think, as it is already very well designed and has a small footprint, but still.I need a bit of help from you guys, though - I am a complete noob when it comes to the wiring and electricity. I can handle the coding, no problem, but the electricity is very new to me.
I am assuming that besides adding the second relay, no other components need to be added - no resistors, capacitors, varistors etc.
Is my assumption correct?Thanks!
-
@Sefi-Ninio said:
@Sefi-Ninio said:
Hi, @toabhishekverma
Well, your suggestion might work, I am not sure a switch that is meant to be connected to 220v mains can be connected to the gpio pin.I think, adding an additional relay to the pcb and allowing them both to behave like a 3way switch will allow for maximum flexibility.
- It could control 2 separate lamps
- It could behave like 2 3-way switches
- It could behave like a single 4-way switch
I would have done it myself, but I have no clue 😀
@aproxx , what do you think about adding another relay (for a total of 2 on board) and making them 3-way?
OK Guys,
I've decided to try and use the original V3.2.3 plans and add another relay to them (with your permission, @aproxx).The board will have to be a bit bigger, I will have to make room for another relay along side the existing one, and I will have to also make room for its connectors.
Not a big problem, I think, as it is already very well designed and has a small footprint, but still.I need a bit of help from you guys, though - I am a complete noob when it comes to the wiring and electricity. I can handle the coding, no problem, but the electricity is very new to me.
I am assuming that besides adding the second relay, no other components need to be added - no resistors, capacitors, varistors etc.
Is my assumption correct?Thanks!
@Sefi-Ninio said:
I am assuming that besides adding the second relay, no other components need to be added - no resistors, capacitors, varistors etc.
Is my assumption correct?Thanks!
You need at least a second transistor.
-
maybe a fuse to protect relay output.. ?
and plz add a second switch, to control an other node or anything.. -
So basically, I should duplicate the current circuit for the new relay...
-
I am facing a little problem with the fuses. I am using these:
5V DC: http://www.ebay.de/itm/321697892220?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
When I connect the pcb to power the LED on the Arduino flashes and then the 500 mA Fuse in the 5V circuit dies. I am now using the 300 mA resetable Fuse for the 5V part as well, which seems to work without problems. How can it be, that the 500 mA fuse dies and the 300 mA fuse does not?
-
Jan Gatzke; chinese brand electronics... who knows what can happens....
i ordered all stuff needed to make my pcb with maximun 4x4cms to use inside wall switches (like zwave fibaro modules). i will try to reduce that board by not using connectors and solder the cables directly etc..
Something that i don't know is why use a varistor and fuse on secundary??? arduino already have an polyfuse PPTC Resetable fuse, and someting bad that happens with nrf24 will burn the 3.3V regulator.. its that varistor and fuse realy needed?
-
As promised, I've got an update for this project. The board has been tested in the past week, and everything is working as expected. Compared to the previous board I've posted, I have updated the following:
• Solder pads of LE33CZ have been placed a little wider apart to avoid short circuit while soldering.
• Solder pads of the resettable fuse (Fuse2) has been placed closer together to better fit the fuses of the BOM.
• Moved the NRF24L01 connector a bit away from the solid state relay. Should make it easier to solder.
• Moved Fuse2 to another location on the board, away from the 230v circuit.Some 3D pictures (Top and bottom):
Anyone who is interested can order the PCB HERE
Some documentation, and all gerber / DipTrace files (in case you would like to make some modifications) can be found here: MySensors board v3.2.3.zip.
@aproxx hello. can i know how you rendered your PCB layout to 3D , if any tutorial it can guide me
to achieve that .thanks
-
Wow, this thread has been really active in the past few months! I'm sorry for my absence, but I kind of got dragged into other projects.. :)
A new version of the board will be shared soon! Compared to the current board following changes have been made:
- A second solid state relay has been added. This 2nd relay is optional, so if only 1 device needs to be controlled just 1 relay needs to be installed and everything will still work fine.
- The board size has been increased just a little bit to fit this 2nd relay. Size is still 5x5cm only.
- Some components have been moved in order to make it easier to solder them (This was a bit tricky on version 3.2.3 because some components were really close to each other).
- Traces between the relays and the connectors are now 'open air'. So there is no mask on top of the traces. This way it is possible to reinforce the traces. By doing this it shouldn't be any problem to connect a 2A load to the board.
- A temperature cut-off has been added to the board.
- The varistor for the low voltage circuit has been removed because it's not really needed anymore with all the extra security measures on the high voltage side of the board.
Currently this board is still on it's way from China, but as soon as I've received this board I'll share all the documentation and everything else which is needed on this forum! This will probably happen in 3-5 weeks from now, so stay tuned! ;)
-
Wow, this thread has been really active in the past few months! I'm sorry for my absence, but I kind of got dragged into other projects.. :)
A new version of the board will be shared soon! Compared to the current board following changes have been made:
- A second solid state relay has been added. This 2nd relay is optional, so if only 1 device needs to be controlled just 1 relay needs to be installed and everything will still work fine.
- The board size has been increased just a little bit to fit this 2nd relay. Size is still 5x5cm only.
- Some components have been moved in order to make it easier to solder them (This was a bit tricky on version 3.2.3 because some components were really close to each other).
- Traces between the relays and the connectors are now 'open air'. So there is no mask on top of the traces. This way it is possible to reinforce the traces. By doing this it shouldn't be any problem to connect a 2A load to the board.
- A temperature cut-off has been added to the board.
- The varistor for the low voltage circuit has been removed because it's not really needed anymore with all the extra security measures on the high voltage side of the board.
Currently this board is still on it's way from China, but as soon as I've received this board I'll share all the documentation and everything else which is needed on this forum! This will probably happen in 3-5 weeks from now, so stay tuned! ;)
-
bad news :-/ then why have you fuse at home ? 400 000 V has security measures, why add more security ? it's juste our life, childs life !!
do you know what is a "security transformer" ? the hlk-pm01 isn't one. -
bad news :-/ then why have you fuse at home ? 400 000 V has security measures, why add more security ? it's juste our life, childs life !!
do you know what is a "security transformer" ? the hlk-pm01 isn't one.@vil1driver said:
bad news :-/ then why have you fuse at home ? 400 000 V has security measures, why add more security ? it's juste our life, childs life !!
do you know what is a "security transformer" ? the hlk-pm01 isn't one.It's not that I think that security isn't important, but I believe that no security on the low voltage side is safer than having a false sense of security. As I've read above, lots of the low voltage fuses were not reliable. And that's one reason I dropped it in the newer design.
All that aside: I never ever EVER intend to mount these boards on locations people can reach (unless they intend to). Everything is placed safely behind a light switch or in a completely closed plastic box. The only thing that COULD be touched is the wires to the switch itself (And even those will be out of reach if the lid of the switch is on). But since these switches are only connected to ground and a digital input, those wires don't do any harm.
But yes, I do know what a 'security transformer' is. And no, I completely agree the HLK-PM01 itself isn't a secure transformer. But considering the price, the added fuses and temp cutoffs, and the plan to mount these in a safe location, I believe the HLK-PM01 does the job well. ;)
-
thanks for your answer,
-
Secure? ... A varistor and a 8v fuse on secundary line! ...
Never touch devices when powered to mains. A simple light bulb that you can touch on metal part, a tablet charger that can blow up... just don't touch the module and put it inside wall (not wood) or circuit case. -
Wow, this thread has been really active in the past few months! I'm sorry for my absence, but I kind of got dragged into other projects.. :)
A new version of the board will be shared soon! Compared to the current board following changes have been made:
- A second solid state relay has been added. This 2nd relay is optional, so if only 1 device needs to be controlled just 1 relay needs to be installed and everything will still work fine.
- The board size has been increased just a little bit to fit this 2nd relay. Size is still 5x5cm only.
- Some components have been moved in order to make it easier to solder them (This was a bit tricky on version 3.2.3 because some components were really close to each other).
- Traces between the relays and the connectors are now 'open air'. So there is no mask on top of the traces. This way it is possible to reinforce the traces. By doing this it shouldn't be any problem to connect a 2A load to the board.
- A temperature cut-off has been added to the board.
- The varistor for the low voltage circuit has been removed because it's not really needed anymore with all the extra security measures on the high voltage side of the board.
Currently this board is still on it's way from China, but as soon as I've received this board I'll share all the documentation and everything else which is needed on this forum! This will probably happen in 3-5 weeks from now, so stay tuned! ;)
-
@jemish The boards were sent to me from China 5 days ago. I don't have a tracking number available, but usually it takes between 3 and 5 weeks before they reach me (Belgium). I already have all the necessary components, so within a week after I received the boards I'll provide this topic with an update.
-
Its been a long time since I built one of these but I recall there were some gotchas. I have a bunch of version 2.2.3. Besides the silk screen showing wrong orientation for the regulator what else was there?
Perhaps @aproxx could update first post?
Thanks!
