Roller Shutter
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rfm modules have an external antenna, that is why they can be mounted like they do on moteino boards.
NRF modules incorporates an anteanna, and you need to keep the anteanna area (+ some space around it) clear of components and tracks. on both sides of the PCB. Otherwise they will interfere with the antenna radiation.
I use the build in 3D viewer in kicad. (Using almost bleeding edge of kicad on linux, with additions from CERN)
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@tbowmo: thank you for your explanation. So I think it is not a good news for me (nrf24) aaaaaaa I will loose my hairs on this:sweat_smile: even if I plan to use rfm, my brother have a lots of nrf24. I think he will need move to rfm. But I will try, big challenge for me.
For kicad, interesting info, thanks. -
@Fabien: I have an idea for nrf24 problem, maybe dumb I don't know.
- on bottom of nrf, paste piece of paper
- then add a piece aluminium sheet or anything else with a wire to connect it to gnd
- then paste another piece of paper
Do you think it could work? Or maybe antenna will not like the ground plane...
just ideas, in case.
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I have the ftdi header on the sensebender board mounted on the atmel chip side (opposite the radio) and have not had any problems with radio range or packet loss. My deployed sensebenders are all between 3 and 7 meters from gateway or repeater.
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@tbowmo: ok. so in my case it is not a good idea to put 2 radio footprints as it will increase size. As I have already done the job, I will make 2 versions. easier.
In the other hand, the mini pro version (a little bigger) I have already traced could handle both radio with some minor change.So, I have now all recommandation I need. So I am able to finish it and send to fabhouse for test. I will inform you when board and sketch all done.
Thanks again to all. -
Hi @scalz
A question, there is a reason to do not use an encoder instead of the acs712 and the stop buttons to know the position of the shutter?
Cheers
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Hi.
I am not sure what do you mean with "stop button" (end stops?) and encoder. I have made this board for multi purpose, not rollershutter only. And in dualrelay, I can know power consumption too.
I need to update 3d view. But my schematics and pcb are my latest rev. I am waiting for my pcb (end of the month).
Maybe there are other good ideas as I am not electronician. But I have learnt a lot at my job and thx to internet:smile: -
Hi.
just to share :smile: as I have received some boards today. so here a screenshot for rollershutternode.
It is not soldered yet, I just wanted to see if my hilink, relays and nrf footprints was ok. it's ok! but too bad I forgot to order varistor and fuses (fuse will be between the screw terminals, and varistor on right bottom corner...
these boards was ordered at Seeed. -
@jemish: I will test it on somfy rollershutter (220v motor). but the board can be used with 12-24-110v motors/load. and I need to finish the rollershutter sketch too and check everything.All will be ok in maybe... two weeks I hope.
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@Fabien: yes I have done some tests and worked on the sketch too.
So for rev 1.0, I have made a mistake on opamp of acs712. not big but a little embarrassing to fix onboard.
Good news is I have no stability problem (regarding relays, button interrupt, or smd nrf near buttons pinheader). I was afraid about that. so it's cool.Rev 1.1 is finished (but not ordered) and I am working on documentation before release. it won't take long time I hope :wink:
In rev 1.1 :- opamp for acs712 updated
- 0805 onboard led added (was missing but it can be useful!)
- 0805 CTN for temperature of the board (under hilink)
- better silkscreen
for your question about triac and acs712, I can't tell you. I am not sure, but don't see why it could not work. but if it is for rollershutter node control, I am not sure if triac is best option..
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I don't think relay is a good option for 230VAC motors. On start current is very high and relay's life will be short. And second problem with SR086 for example I have only 60mA under 3.3V, It could be a problem for NRF+ATMEGA328+Relay command (transistor).
I prefer to chose triac like ACST8-8G (DPAK) wich is fine for controlling motor and very small. -
@Fabien:
cool. it could be interesting. I thought about triacs and making my own power supply too and for lots of reasons I choosed relays and hilink.- I wanted something the most secure and galvanic isolated.. and for triac you would need an opto. then multiply by 2 for Up and Down. So for one rail, counting all components involved, footprint is near relay, maybe bigger.
- omron relays are small and not power eager. I don't enable two at same time for rollershutter motor.
- triac makes more emi. Add to this an homemade powersupply...I wanted to be sure for radio..
- I think fibaro rollershutter uses relays (two). If triacs was a good option I think they would have used it as they uses triac in others products. but I am note sure, I have none of these. I just looked at their docs.
Anyway, your way is interesting too! try and test I will follow your work for sure :wink:
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yes I understand. I thought exactly about same problematic. my design is 47x48. I was hoping to make smaller too.
another cool idea could be to make custom wallbox...with touch sensor plate or gesture recognition.@scalz
I'm following this post closely I like the idea, I have some motors controlled via RF but I don't like the controllers or the reliability. I will see how to retrofit them with your controller after you have tested and did all the hard work! ;) I believe I can just Hijack the motor wires and use the relays and the boards for all the logic. I like what you have setup but I will have to see your sketch first.I have some old Hunter Douglass motorized shutters that use IR remote I hacked them with an reed relay on a node that acts as a push button. Just like pushing the button on the motor. Unfortunately the new shutters I got don't have a manual push button or I would do the same.
