Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??
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I'm also looking forward about test results. I've seen the module however never totally trusted; until I found this topic. The price and size are perfect for under-socket installation. If further results come out good, I'm eager to see in-wall projects.
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This one is not "safe", but it is an In-Wall AC to DC converter. Transformerless. With a 3A Solid state relay:
The converter output is 3.3V at 100mA and the solid state relay is a Triac.
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Looks very nice, but you cannot use it for sensors or actuators that can be touched by hand and do not comply with the insulation standards, since parts of it will be connected to mains.
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Did anyone look at the SwitchMote PSU over at LowerPowerLab? More info here. The kit is fairly expensive ($30) but I wonder how much it would be to source the components yourself since someone else has done all the design work.
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Did anyone look at the SwitchMote PSU over at LowerPowerLab? More info here. The kit is fairly expensive ($30) but I wonder how much it would be to source the components yourself since someone else has done all the design work.
@TD22057 I would say the cost of this PSU is dominated by the Recom converter onboard. Farnell charges E14,58 for single pieces (http://nl.farnell.com/recom-power/rac02-05sc/ac-dc-converter-2w-5v-reg/dp/1903060?searchRef=SearchLookAhead).
Rest of the components will be a few Euro's, and ofcourse the PCB (which contains a number of milled slots for isolation).
All together you will get fairly close to $30 when building it yourself. -
@Bertb Yes, it shouldn't be touched. It can be used with wall-mounted mains switches, though. Placed behind it.
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@ceech said:
Yes, it shouldn't be touched
Nice! just label board !LIVE!
Not safe due to no fuse? Do share, making your own boards with solder mask?
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So basically it is like any other consumer Zwave switch or X10 just box it up (3D printer on stand by) with 2 micro buttons with a rocker face and I want 10. :) But sorry I digressed from the OP in my excitement.
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@ceech Yes I like the idea of course the board would be housed inside of a box, my idea is to incorporate the box with a daughter board with 2 push buttons on and off like Zwave switches use. Yes please send me, if you are worried I will use safely I was taught to work on all power 120v - 480v as if it is live so that you remain alive!
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@ceech Yes I like the idea of course the board would be housed inside of a box, my idea is to incorporate the box with a daughter board with 2 push buttons on and off like Zwave switches use. Yes please send me, if you are worried I will use safely I was taught to work on all power 120v - 480v as if it is live so that you remain alive!
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Another China iphone plug destroyed.
This has been working for 2-3 weeks without problems... the plug runs a 5v arduino and a normal 240-5v relay with button and led, standard sketch.
One day it just didnt started and i opened it up and saw a melted plastic cover and some burned component.
I have felt the relays a couple of times and noone has been really hot.
Im getting a bit shaky here... how far from disaster (big fire) is this?
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BTW, the review of HLK PSU should be published in 'few days' according to the guy from http://lygte-info.dk . Can't wait for that!
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@sundberg84 Yikes! That is exactly why I started this thread. I don't want to burn my house down...
@rvendrame Awesome! Can't wait either!
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This is fantastic news!!
Would anyone be able to provide a parts list and wiring diagram based on the recommendations from the test site (pasted below)?
"A few notes for using it:
Electronic wears down faster when warm, especially capacitors, i.e. keep it as cool as possible for long lifetime.
I would place a fuse or fusible resistor before the converter, the fuse is not supposed to be replaceable, when it blows it is time to replace the converter.
A MOV accross the mains input would probably also be a good idea."
http://lygte-info.dk/review/Power Mains to 5V 0.6A Hi-Link HLK-PM01 UK.htmlOnce we have a that info I will update the first post so everyone reading this in the future doesn't have to read through 200+ posts to get to the conclusion. Thanks to everyone who helped with this!!!
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The wiring is easy to describe.
Put a fuse in line between the "hot" mains AC input and the power supply module input (the "neutral" can go directly to the power supply). Put a MOV across the power supply input (on the PS side of the fuse).
For small spikes, the MOV would protect the PS by absorbing most of it. For longer surges, the MOV would cause the fuse to blow, probably sacrificing itself in the process.
Maybe others can help with component selection (for 120v and 240v mains). I see that in the case of Littelfuse, the fuse is rated by RMS AC voltage, so a 140v MOV would work for a nominal 120VAC mains). http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics_technical/application_notes/varistors/littelfuse_selecting_a_littelfuse_varistor_application_note.pdf
I don't know if RMS rating is standard, or if some are rated by their DC voltage conduction threshold, but one would want to be sure of that for the brand they are getting.
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Some more thoughts from the guy who analyzed it:
"Hi Ricardo
It looks safe enough to me, except I want a fuse or fusible resistor before it. The purpose of the fuse is to blow when the module is worn down and maybe shorts. How fast it wears down will depend on temperature, at very high temperature it might be less than ½ year, at more moderate temperature it might be 10-20 years. The main culprit is the capacitors, their lifetime depends on temperature and quality of the capacitor.
Second risk for failure is large transients on the mains that may damage the module, again the fuse is there to prevent things getting out of hand if the module breaks down.The module can get hot if you pack it into the wall, especially if it is inside a lot of insulation. Doing a few test with a DMM and a temperature probe taped to the module inside the wall might be a good idea when running the module near full load.
I do not know the stuff used to fill with, but usual it will not easily catch fire."
