@fanfan , not sure if that may help you, but in my case I discovered that even in sleep mode the BME280 still drawing current (up to 1mA). The only solution I found was to bring down the SCL and SDA pins before entering in the sleep mode.
Something like this:
digitalWrite( A4 , LOW );
digitalWrite( A5 , LOW );
sleep( 60000 );
wait(200);
weather_sensor.begin();
wait(200);
Not sure if this is best way but it worked for me...
@nikola-collins , yes, I just got the same conclusion. After installing the latest SPIFlash lib from lowpowerlab.com, and changed the constructor to "SPIFlash flash(8)" (like your code), seems that now I have ~12uA in sleep mode.
Thanks anyway!
Just a comment for this board, the minimum current consumption in mySensors Sleep() that I could achieve is ~700uA, with 2XAA batteries.
According to seller, this the benchmark for this board.
I should have enquired it first, before buying 10 boards... one more lesson learned!
@abarkow , did you print the cover? Is it a flat cover or they are cuts between each key?
According to this, avoid trailing edge dimmers to control inductive loads (fan motor in this case).
I purchased this module:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wireless-Module-CC2500-2-4G-Low-power-Consistency-Stability-Small-Size/32702148262.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.L1Dfwj
This is the pinout...
... and I'm in doubt how to wire GDO2, GDO0, RFSC above.
RFCL - SCK (pin 13)?
GDO2 - leave open?
GDO0 - CE (pin 9)?
RFCS - CS(pin 10)?
Would you mind to clarify? Thanks!
@user2684 , I have same smoke sensor as you (as per picture you posted). How did you end with this? I'm experience many false smoke alarms, no matter what resistors/diodes I use.
Sorry for reopen such old thread!
You can find "Hi-link like" PSUs at Aliexpress for less than $2 USD. Not sure how less you can reach by producing them by yourself.
Despite the security (which of course is the most important aspect here), such kind of circuit usually consumes from 2 to 10w (depending on AC voltage and C1 value), no matter in standby or not. I did some testing in the past and at end I dropped in favor of hi-link and similar small PSUs.
@Yago-Casasnovas , the one mentioned by Boots runs a coincell. There is no wire to connect it, just glue anywhere and it will send commands to your controller. The standard one uses 433Mhz (like a garage door remote control), while the hacked version from Nca78 transforms it in 'mySensors enabled'.
It doesn't control any light though, like the one you found from Broadlink. If you want a module to replace the original switch, wired to the lamp, search for 'Livolo' in the forum and you will find some hacks too.