My Slim 2AA Battery Node

[meddie]

@ahmedadelhosni said:

@meddie THanks for the answer.

Can you please also explain your final result to reach 4uA. I have also the same problem and current is 90uA and sometimes drops to 20uA, then rises again. Thanks.

Edit: I figured out that I was using the 3.3v from arduino UNO. CHanged to two 1.5 batteries. THe current drops to 1.4uA when contact is open but sometimes it is also 15 uA. And when contact is closed it is 60 uA, and sometimes drops. Don't know why it is not stable.

Edit 26.1.2016: I managed to reach 1.4uA with door opened, and 15uA when closed. I guess the problem was with the wiring. DOn't really know but I used a battery holder instead. I will try to rechange the resistor value to 1Mohm and reupdate.

Edit 27.1.2016: ok I created another node and connected the contact sensor in series with the 1Mohm and the output is the voltage divider. now it is 1.4uA when open and 4.6uA when closed.

Thanks

Yes, i used a 1 Mohm reisitor instead of the internall pull up. You can read this few messages above. This was a tip from GertSander

[Tomasz Pazio]

Hi, I build the board but I still have issues with burning ATMega328p chip.
Can you describe and attach files that should work?
The only success "burn" I had with burning bootloader was with hex and boards entry from first post using arduino uno and ips programer ( so it is like burning uno bootloader with your setup)
After that I was trying to upload sketch but than it was not possible because of "?# in boards file but there is no such sign.
I rewert file to stock and burn sketch like it would be standard uno board but using programer and not standard usb. No idea if it is corect so that is why I ask for more details.
Thank you in advance
Tomasz

[m26872]

@Tomasz-Pazio Sounds more like some issue with the IDE and boards file than hw and fuses/bootloader. Have you tried different IDE versions?

[meddie]

@ahmedadelhosni
what is it on the door? is that a plastic wrap?

[ahmedadelhosni]

@meddie

The sensor is drawn by black rectangle. This is adhesive tape like this : http://2.imimg.com/data2/YX/UQ/MY-3910304/sale-bopp-clarity-adhesive-tape-250x250.jpg

The other red rectangle on the door was old tape I didn't remove. Actually before getting my boards I used a bread board and a battery for testing, so I needed a tape for support and keeping it in place :)

[meddie]

:thumbsup:

[Tomasz Pazio]

@m26872 thanks for advice, bootloader burned on IDE 1.0.x and after that, sketches are uploaded properly on 1.6.x.

One more question, how it should report battery state? I can not see any variable created for this in Vera.

[m26872]

@Tomasz-Pazio Great! If I remember Vera correct, a variable should be created automaticly upon first message if you use the sendbatterylevel() fuction.

[Cliff Karlsson]

anyone care to write down the exact precedure of how to burn a new bootloader to the atmel chip? what files goes to what folders and so on.

[GertSanders]

@Cliff-Karlsson I'm experimenting with several versions of Optiboot (various upload and upload combinations) for my board. Once that is done, I will add it to the documentation of my board. I'm extending the sketch found here:

http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11635

[m26872]

@Cliff-Karlsson Let's continue your bootloader trouble discussion in it's own thread:
http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2975/how-do-i-burn-a-bootloader-to-an-328p-with-uno-bootloader-preinstalled/8

[rsachoc]

OK, so finally I have received most of the parts I need to build a few of these sensors. I want to go with a temp sensor at first, the si7021. So I wanted to check what "other bits" I need (newb alert).

From there, do I need both 1 and 2? If so, what are these?

From here, what are 3 and 4? Do I need both?

Also, depending on the answers above, do I solder to exactly the same pins? Have I missed anything?

Thanks

[Cliff Karlsson]

Ok, finaly succeded in burning the bootloader. Now comes next part. Fuses and lockbits, I have no idea what this means but is this what I need to do?

avrdude -C ../etc/avrdude.conf -c usbasp -B5 -p ATmega328P -U lfuse:w:0x62:m -U hfuse:w:0xDE:m -U efuse:w:0x07:m -U lock:w:0x2F:m

[meddie]

oh, yes! And you have to be carefully with them, because to set the fuses wrong, can destroy your µcontroller

[meddie]

if you look to message Nr 179 you will find my bootloader and the correct fuses for this. But its a 1MHz Bootloader and the fuses too.
Dont use it if you want to run it at 8 MHz.

[bjacobse]

Web-based fuse calculator
A different way of evaluating fuses is presented at this web page:
http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc

At the bottom I inserted your fuses.
Translation:
Divide by8-> if your mcy board uses 8Mhz, then you now use 1Mhz Clock (Good this enables that you now can use a lower voltage down to 1,9V)
SPI is enabled, then you can program your mcu with FTDI cable
BOD mcu will not power down mcu when you have a low voltage (So you can use down to 1,9V)
I write 1,9Volt since this is the lowest voltage your NRF24L01+ can use for operation

[Cliff Karlsson]

Sorry for asking the same questions over and over but I have just used the files linked at the top of this thread.

This is the bootloader that I used:

atmega328_1a.hex (Optiboot for 9600baud at 1MHz)

##############################################################
# Add the new board to boards.txt (normally located at "C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr"
# The *.bootloader.* etries only matters if you want to program bootloader (and fuses) from Arduino IDE. 
# See http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc (select Atmega328p) for interpretation of fuse values and how 
# extended fuses are written in different applications (07h in Arduino IDE = FFh in Atmel studio).
##############################################################

apm96.name=APM Optiboot internal 1MHz noBOD 9600baud

apm96.upload.tool=avrdude
apm96.upload.protocol=arduino
apm96.upload.maximum_size=32256
apm96.upload.speed=9600
apm96.bootloader.tool=avrdude
apm96.bootloader.low_fuses=0x62
apm96.bootloader.high_fuses=0xde
apm96.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x07
apm96.bootloader.path=optiboot_v50
apm96.bootloader.file=atmega328_1a.hex
apm96.bootloader.unlock_bits=0x3F
apm96.bootloader.lock_bits=0x2F
apm96.build.mcu=atmega328p
apm96.build.f_cpu=1000000L
apm96.build.core=arduino
apm96.build.variant=standard

Do I still need to add fuses or is that done when the bootloader is burned?

[ahmedadelhosni]

@Cliff-Karlsson

It is already done when you burn the bootloader.

apm96.bootloader.low_fuses=0x62
apm96.bootloader.high_fuses=0xde

[m26872]

@Cliff-Karlsson said:

Ok, finaly succeded in burning the bootloader.

Great news!! With Arduino as ISP? Any particular tips to share?

[Cliff Karlsson]

@m26872 I am fairly sure that all methods work in normal cases but nothing worked for me fore some reason :) .

The only way I could get it to work was when I finaly put the chip in an Arduino Uno clone with 328p Dip(?) socket and connected an USBtiny ISP to the ISCP of that Uno. It took just a couple of seconds and then it was done :).

I flashed like 6-7 ships right away with bootloader and blink-sketch just for fun. Biggest problem now is to get the damn chip in/out of the sockets without bending any legs. But I ordered a chip extractor to remedy that problem (in 4-6 weeks :()