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Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors

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  • sinczeS sincze

    @sundberg84 Ok tnx for the heads up. Currently I have everything in DEMO up and running on a NANO on my desk (using the exact same pins as I would on your PCB.
    I was thinking of the following. Power the PCB with 5v and use a 5v arduino mini, use the LE33 to power the Antenna with 3,3v. Hopefully this will enable the pins Mys pins A0 ...Dx with 5v.(Have to look at the schematic to be sure). Keeping your advise in mind to add some extra juice I have to power the RELAIS & Temp sensor separately with 5v and keep the grounds of everything together with the PCB. I think it should work. But maybe I am missing something.

    sundberg84S Offline
    sundberg84S Offline
    sundberg84
    Hardware Contributor
    wrote on last edited by
    #154

    @sincze all you can do is test and learn !!

    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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    • sundberg84S sundberg84

      @dbemowsk @sincze - its a good idea with a proto board or you can build something and add as an shield on the MysX connector... I would also suggest you run a seperate power regulator for the sensors... atleast do some calculactions before adding them in because LE33 can handle maximum of 0.2A i think.

      dbemowskD Offline
      dbemowskD Offline
      dbemowsk
      wrote on last edited by
      #155

      @sundberg84 Couldn't think of the name of the MysX connector when I did that post, but that's what I was talking about putting the header on to connect to the proto-board. Mainly to act as a proto-shield. I would agree to run the sensors from a separate regulator. If he plugs it into the MysX connector he should have access to RAW power if he jumpers the pads next to the MysX connector, and then he may be able to make use of at least one of his LM1117 regulators on his shield, provided that he runs the sensors from 3.3V. I am assuming that his LM1117's are 3.3V regulators and not the 5V versions.

      Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
      Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

      sinczeS 1 Reply Last reply
      2
      • dbemowskD dbemowsk

        @sundberg84 Couldn't think of the name of the MysX connector when I did that post, but that's what I was talking about putting the header on to connect to the proto-board. Mainly to act as a proto-shield. I would agree to run the sensors from a separate regulator. If he plugs it into the MysX connector he should have access to RAW power if he jumpers the pads next to the MysX connector, and then he may be able to make use of at least one of his LM1117 regulators on his shield, provided that he runs the sensors from 3.3V. I am assuming that his LM1117's are 3.3V regulators and not the 5V versions.

        sinczeS Offline
        sinczeS Offline
        sincze
        MySensors Evangelist
        wrote on last edited by
        #156

        @dbemowsk Got in stock 2 types of LM1117 the 3,3v and 5v. In any case the relais need 5v, the temp sensor as well. So If I read RAW in your answer that triggers me to watch out. ;-) I'll start soldering some pins and measure the voltage. as @sundberg84 said.. "all you can do is test and learn !! hehehe. Part of the Mysensors fun. And ofcourse this forum provides me with experienced feedback.

        sinczeS 1 Reply Last reply
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        • sinczeS sincze

          @dbemowsk Got in stock 2 types of LM1117 the 3,3v and 5v. In any case the relais need 5v, the temp sensor as well. So If I read RAW in your answer that triggers me to watch out. ;-) I'll start soldering some pins and measure the voltage. as @sundberg84 said.. "all you can do is test and learn !! hehehe. Part of the Mysensors fun. And ofcourse this forum provides me with experienced feedback.

          sinczeS Offline
          sinczeS Offline
          sincze
          MySensors Evangelist
          wrote on last edited by sundberg84
          #157

          So this is where the project is at. Using regulated 5V.
          Still missing the 0,1u capacitor, but it is on its way,
          0_1510686541052_PCB_001.jpg

          The voltage divider is working fine 5v -> 3,3v.
          Maybe I am missing some(connection)thing as I don't have 3,3v at the Antenna 3,3/GND connector. Did I miss something as I am not a PCB expert, sorry.

          sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
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          • sinczeS sincze

            So this is where the project is at. Using regulated 5V.
            Still missing the 0,1u capacitor, but it is on its way,
            0_1510686541052_PCB_001.jpg

            The voltage divider is working fine 5v -> 3,3v.
            Maybe I am missing some(connection)thing as I don't have 3,3v at the Antenna 3,3/GND connector. Did I miss something as I am not a PCB expert, sorry.

            sundberg84S Offline
            sundberg84S Offline
            sundberg84
            Hardware Contributor
            wrote on last edited by sundberg84
            #158

            @sincze

            I don't have 3,3v at the Antenna 3,3/GND connector

            If you measure these points, what do you have?

            • plus (left pin) on blue screw terminal (should be 5v)
            • reg jumper (should be 5v)
            • Vin voltage reg (should be 5v)
            • Vout Voltage reg (should be 3.3v)

            You should be able to follow the trace from Vout to VCC(radio) with your eye.
            You can do a continuity test from Vout to VCC (radio) and GND(radio) to GND(screw terminal) to comfirm connectiom.

            What kind of voltage regulator do you have? Did you check the pinout matched vin/vout/gnd ?

            Still missing the 0,1u capacitor, but it is on its way,

            No rush, this supports the voltage reg but unless you do some heavy things you will do without.

            Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
            RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

            sinczeS 1 Reply Last reply
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            • sundberg84S sundberg84

              @sincze

              I don't have 3,3v at the Antenna 3,3/GND connector

              If you measure these points, what do you have?

              • plus (left pin) on blue screw terminal (should be 5v)
              • reg jumper (should be 5v)
              • Vin voltage reg (should be 5v)
              • Vout Voltage reg (should be 3.3v)

              You should be able to follow the trace from Vout to VCC(radio) with your eye.
              You can do a continuity test from Vout to VCC (radio) and GND(radio) to GND(screw terminal) to comfirm connectiom.

              What kind of voltage regulator do you have? Did you check the pinout matched vin/vout/gnd ?

              Still missing the 0,1u capacitor, but it is on its way,

              No rush, this supports the voltage reg but unless you do some heavy things you will do without.

              sinczeS Offline
              sinczeS Offline
              sincze
              MySensors Evangelist
              wrote on last edited by
              #159

              @sundberg84 I did measure the following:

              plus (left pin) on blue screw terminal (should be 5v), is 4,96 V
              Vin voltage reg (should be 5v), is 4,96
              Vout Voltage reg (should be 3.3v), is 3,3

              sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
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              • sinczeS sincze

                @sundberg84 I did measure the following:

                plus (left pin) on blue screw terminal (should be 5v), is 4,96 V
                Vin voltage reg (should be 5v), is 4,96
                Vout Voltage reg (should be 3.3v), is 3,3

                sundberg84S Offline
                sundberg84S Offline
                sundberg84
                Hardware Contributor
                wrote on last edited by
                #160

                @sincze but still 0v at radio VCC?

                Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                sinczeS 1 Reply Last reply
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                • sundberg84S sundberg84

                  @sincze but still 0v at radio VCC?

                  sinczeS Offline
                  sinczeS Offline
                  sincze
                  MySensors Evangelist
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #161

                  @sundberg84 unfortunately yes. However.

                  You can do a continuity test from Vout to VCC (radio) , (We have no beep for continuity)
                  and
                  GND(radio) to GND(screw terminal) to comfirm connectiom. (We have a beep for contiuity)

                  sundberg84S 2 Replies Last reply
                  0
                  • sinczeS sincze

                    @sundberg84 unfortunately yes. However.

                    You can do a continuity test from Vout to VCC (radio) , (We have no beep for continuity)
                    and
                    GND(radio) to GND(screw terminal) to comfirm connectiom. (We have a beep for contiuity)

                    sundberg84S Offline
                    sundberg84S Offline
                    sundberg84
                    Hardware Contributor
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #162

                    @sincze if this is so you have a broken pcb trace (first time I ever heard of) do you need to replace the trace with a wire.

                    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                    1 Reply Last reply
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                    • sinczeS sincze

                      @sundberg84 unfortunately yes. However.

                      You can do a continuity test from Vout to VCC (radio) , (We have no beep for continuity)
                      and
                      GND(radio) to GND(screw terminal) to comfirm connectiom. (We have a beep for contiuity)

                      sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84
                      Hardware Contributor
                      wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                      #163

                      @sincze or a bad solder joint...

                      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                      sinczeS 1 Reply Last reply
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                      • sundberg84S sundberg84

                        @sincze or a bad solder joint...

                        sinczeS Offline
                        sinczeS Offline
                        sincze
                        MySensors Evangelist
                        wrote on last edited by sincze
                        #164

                        @sundberg84 as I am not a soldering king... we will check the work and report back...... applied a bit more solder to the vout and we have beep ;-) now let's continue the work.
                        Wow, 3,3 and 3,29v on the antenna. tnx.

                        sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                        1
                        • sinczeS sincze

                          @sundberg84 as I am not a soldering king... we will check the work and report back...... applied a bit more solder to the vout and we have beep ;-) now let's continue the work.
                          Wow, 3,3 and 3,29v on the antenna. tnx.

                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #165

                          @sincze no worries. Good luck.

                          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                          sinczeS 1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • S Offline
                            S Offline
                            SolderNewbie
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #166

                            Hi,
                            I‘m new to MySensors and the Newbie PCB. At the weekend I build my first sensor but I had one Problem. I want to use battery powered sensors so I’m using the 3.3V battery booster. I’m have connected/soltered everything and the Arduino was runing fine. But the NRF24-Module wasn’t working. I cheked it and there was no voltage at the Vcc pin of the NRF24. Then I found out, the NRF24 is only powered if the battery jumper is closed. If the battery jumper is opened there is not voltage at the NRF24 module and also not at the 3.3 pin of the MysX pin out. Ist this correct?I thought the NRF24 is powered by the battery booster by default. Or did I get it wrong?

                            gohanG 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • S SolderNewbie

                              Hi,
                              I‘m new to MySensors and the Newbie PCB. At the weekend I build my first sensor but I had one Problem. I want to use battery powered sensors so I’m using the 3.3V battery booster. I’m have connected/soltered everything and the Arduino was runing fine. But the NRF24-Module wasn’t working. I cheked it and there was no voltage at the Vcc pin of the NRF24. Then I found out, the NRF24 is only powered if the battery jumper is closed. If the battery jumper is opened there is not voltage at the NRF24 module and also not at the 3.3 pin of the MysX pin out. Ist this correct?I thought the NRF24 is powered by the battery booster by default. Or did I get it wrong?

                              gohanG Offline
                              gohanG Offline
                              gohan
                              Mod
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #167

                              @SolderNewbie of course you need to close that jumper since you are using batteries.

                              S 1 Reply Last reply
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                              • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                @sincze no worries. Good luck.

                                sinczeS Offline
                                sinczeS Offline
                                sincze
                                MySensors Evangelist
                                wrote on last edited by sincze
                                #168

                                @sundberg84 tnx.
                                I looked at the FAQ and could not find an explaination how to use the pins TX/RX.

                                The following is now on my build list, but maybe if I can use TX/RX pins it will free something...

                                1. LED RX=A05
                                2. LED TX=D02
                                3. Relay_1=A00
                                4. Relay_2=A01
                                5. Relay_3=A04
                                6. Temp_D03 (total of 4, resistor currently already soldered into the wire)
                                7. Door_Switch=D05
                                8. Leakage_Switch=D06

                                I tested the sketch on a Arduino Nano and it is working, now I need to convert everything to the Easy/Newbie PCB. ;-)

                                sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • gohanG gohan

                                  @SolderNewbie of course you need to close that jumper since you are using batteries.

                                  S Offline
                                  S Offline
                                  SolderNewbie
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #169

                                  @gohan
                                  But i want to power the NRF24 with the battery booster and not directly with the batteries. Is this possible? The NRF24 modules is working with 1.9V than i have to replace the batteries. But with the battery booster i can drain the batteries down to 0.4 V each!

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • gohanG Offline
                                    gohanG Offline
                                    gohan
                                    Mod
                                    wrote on last edited by gohan
                                    #170

                                    I think I did once a little mod for that case: I shorted Vin and Vout where the radio voltage regulator would be.

                                    PS but I shorted REG and not BAT

                                    S 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • gohanG gohan

                                      I think I did once a little mod for that case: I shorted Vin and Vout where the radio voltage regulator would be.

                                      PS but I shorted REG and not BAT

                                      S Offline
                                      S Offline
                                      SolderNewbie
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #171

                                      @gohan Thanks for this hint!
                                      I put a jumper into Vo and Vi of the voltage regulator pins and shorten it, that's all! Not needed to shorten REG or BAT jumper! The Vi pin is connected to the Vo of the battery booster and the Vo of the voltage regulator pin is connected to Vcc of the NRF24 module.

                                      Maybe an idea for rev 10? Battery booster powered NRF24 module?

                                      sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • S SolderNewbie

                                        @gohan Thanks for this hint!
                                        I put a jumper into Vo and Vi of the voltage regulator pins and shorten it, that's all! Not needed to shorten REG or BAT jumper! The Vi pin is connected to the Vo of the battery booster and the Vo of the voltage regulator pin is connected to Vcc of the NRF24 module.

                                        Maybe an idea for rev 10? Battery booster powered NRF24 module?

                                        sundberg84S Offline
                                        sundberg84S Offline
                                        sundberg84
                                        Hardware Contributor
                                        wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                                        #172

                                        @SolderNewbie

                                        If the battery jumper is opened there is not voltage at the NRF24 module and also not at the 3.3 pin of the MysX pin out. Ist this correct?I thought the NRF24 is powered by the battery booster by default. Or did I get it wrong?

                                        This is correct because you dont want to feed 3.3v from the booster to the radio. The radio is very sensitive to noise (which will be the case with the booster) and since the radio can handle down to 1.9v the pcb is used like the description How?>Battery 3.3v @ https://www.openhardware.io/view/4/EasyNewbie-PCB-for-MySensors. This will feed the vattery voltage only (not from Booster) and therefore not give noise to the radio.

                                        As mentioned above by @gohan its possible but not recommended... unless you got some really good modules you will end up with a 2m range on your radio (or no connection at all)

                                        Maybe an idea for rev 10? Battery booster powered NRF24 module?

                                        This is why Rev 1 and 2 never made it... I have been trying this out since 2014 and it just doesnt work. You might get lucky with 1 or 2 modules that works (or pay alot for low noise boosters which isnt my thought with EasyPCB).

                                        I would instead suggest lowering BOD and/or change bootloader.

                                        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                        gohanG S 2 Replies Last reply
                                        0
                                        • sinczeS sincze

                                          @sundberg84 tnx.
                                          I looked at the FAQ and could not find an explaination how to use the pins TX/RX.

                                          The following is now on my build list, but maybe if I can use TX/RX pins it will free something...

                                          1. LED RX=A05
                                          2. LED TX=D02
                                          3. Relay_1=A00
                                          4. Relay_2=A01
                                          5. Relay_3=A04
                                          6. Temp_D03 (total of 4, resistor currently already soldered into the wire)
                                          7. Door_Switch=D05
                                          8. Leakage_Switch=D06

                                          I tested the sketch on a Arduino Nano and it is working, now I need to convert everything to the Easy/Newbie PCB. ;-)

                                          sundberg84S Offline
                                          sundberg84S Offline
                                          sundberg84
                                          Hardware Contributor
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #173

                                          @sincze

                                          use the pins TX/RX

                                          what do you mean? You can find the pins on the MysX connector (bottom left on the PCB). Instructions on how to use the pins isnt my cup of tea. You need to google that or you have to look at the arduino homepage.

                                          There isnt anything to convert from nano to EasyPCB (except to find the right pins). The sketch will work just fine as it is.

                                          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                          sinczeS 1 Reply Last reply
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