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  3. 💬 My Slim 2AA Battery Node

💬 My Slim 2AA Battery Node

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arduinomysensorslow powerbatteryenclosurenrf24l01
27 Posts 17 Posters 9.2k Views 14 Watching
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  • CosmocatC Offline
    CosmocatC Offline
    Cosmocat
    wrote on last edited by
    #2

    I´ve read about your battery node with great interest. Nice work! Do your nodes keep their meshing capability after you put them in sleep mode?

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • mfalkviddM Offline
      mfalkviddM Offline
      mfalkvidd
      Mod
      wrote on last edited by
      #3

      If you mean a repeater node (https://www.mysensors.org/download/sensor_api_15#create-repeating-nodes ) the answer is no. The radio is shut off during sleep so it can not receive. For a repeater node you need a permanent power supply.

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • CosmocatC Offline
        CosmocatC Offline
        Cosmocat
        wrote on last edited by
        #4

        Thats what I suspected. Thanks for quick response.

        1 Reply Last reply
        1
        • carlekiC Offline
          carlekiC Offline
          carleki
          wrote on last edited by
          #5

          Hello :)
          In the BOM file there is C5 capacitor, but I can't figure out where it does stand on the board. Can you help please ?

          CosmocatC m26872M 2 Replies Last reply
          0
          • carlekiC carleki

            Hello :)
            In the BOM file there is C5 capacitor, but I can't figure out where it does stand on the board. Can you help please ?

            CosmocatC Offline
            CosmocatC Offline
            Cosmocat
            wrote on last edited by
            #6

            @carmelo42 Hi, I have not (yet) built a "Slim 2AA battery node" so I'm afraid I'm not the right guy to ask. Good luck though.

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • carlekiC carleki

              Hello :)
              In the BOM file there is C5 capacitor, but I can't figure out where it does stand on the board. Can you help please ?

              m26872M Offline
              m26872M Offline
              m26872
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #7

              @carmelo42 0_1476822768316_slimC4C5.PNG

              1 Reply Last reply
              2
              • carlekiC Offline
                carlekiC Offline
                carleki
                wrote on last edited by carleki
                #8

                thanks @m26872 :)

                I have ordered smd capacitors for c5 ... but I think it will be good :)

                Can you explain the role of the C5 cap ? I know that C4 is for decoupling for the radio, but C1, C2, C3 and C4 : I don't know !

                Another little question :)
                with my brand new atmega328p, I have burned the bootloader with an arduino uno with the "ArduinoISP" in it.

                After that, I have sent the sketch with another arduino (with it's own atmega removed) and my brand new atmega like that :
                https://www.arduino.cc/en/uploads/Tutorial/ArduinoUSBSerialSimple.png

                Is it possible to put the sketch in the atmega directly on the slim2aabatterynode board ? With an FTDI serial device ?

                m26872M 1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • loiphinL Offline
                  loiphinL Offline
                  loiphin
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #9

                  Keep in mind that if you are trying to use a DHT11 or DHT22 attached to the Slim 2AA, it only seems to work with 8 or 16MHz.. I couldn't get it to work with the ATmega328 running at 1MHz! It works fine with 8MHz internal oscillator :)

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • carlekiC carleki

                    thanks @m26872 :)

                    I have ordered smd capacitors for c5 ... but I think it will be good :)

                    Can you explain the role of the C5 cap ? I know that C4 is for decoupling for the radio, but C1, C2, C3 and C4 : I don't know !

                    Another little question :)
                    with my brand new atmega328p, I have burned the bootloader with an arduino uno with the "ArduinoISP" in it.

                    After that, I have sent the sketch with another arduino (with it's own atmega removed) and my brand new atmega like that :
                    https://www.arduino.cc/en/uploads/Tutorial/ArduinoUSBSerialSimple.png

                    Is it possible to put the sketch in the atmega directly on the slim2aabatterynode board ? With an FTDI serial device ?

                    m26872M Offline
                    m26872M Offline
                    m26872
                    Hardware Contributor
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #10

                    @carmelo42 Sorry for a late reply. In short C2 is to reset the avr, C1 and C3 are to decouple the avr. And C4,C5 for the radio as you say. The caps are there as a recommendation, precaution, stability, etc, and all of them are not always necessary when it's supplied by battery.
                    And yes, the idea of the FTDI-6-pin-header and bootloader is to provide ability to load sketches the normal Auduino way with FTDI and Arduino IDE.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • JonnyDev13J Offline
                      JonnyDev13J Offline
                      JonnyDev13
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #11
                      This post is deleted!
                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • miljumeM Offline
                        miljumeM Offline
                        miljume
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #12

                        Hello, I have built a number of these sensor nodes and really like the generic design!
                        However I have run into trouble when trying to build a power meter with a photo sensor.
                        I am using the code from MySensors but also tried other sources but my problem is that the digital pin i am using (D3) dont drop enough for the sensor to treat it as digital 0 as it stays at 2.3 V with a 2 AA battery power attached

                        When trying the pulse sensor with external power it works perfect so it seems like D3 is floating which also is confirmed when I measure on D3 without the sensor attached. (approx 2.7V)
                        I have used this row in my sketch pinMode(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR,INPUT_PULLUP);

                        Any clues what I can try?

                        sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • miljumeM miljume

                          Hello, I have built a number of these sensor nodes and really like the generic design!
                          However I have run into trouble when trying to build a power meter with a photo sensor.
                          I am using the code from MySensors but also tried other sources but my problem is that the digital pin i am using (D3) dont drop enough for the sensor to treat it as digital 0 as it stays at 2.3 V with a 2 AA battery power attached

                          When trying the pulse sensor with external power it works perfect so it seems like D3 is floating which also is confirmed when I measure on D3 without the sensor attached. (approx 2.7V)
                          I have used this row in my sketch pinMode(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR,INPUT_PULLUP);

                          Any clues what I can try?

                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                          #13

                          @miljume said in 💬 My Slim 2AA Battery Node:

                          INPUT_PULLUP

                          What kind of sensor do you use? Some sensors have an analog and digital output. The Digital should return either 0V or VCC while the analog returns all analog values between 0V and VCC.

                          You could try an external pulldown resistor of 10k to ground if you think the pin is floating.

                          Another approach is to elaborate with a photoresistor only and to get a clean 0/1 use an transistor. If the voltage drops to low though for the pin to get a clear 1 (2.4v on 3.3v atmega) you might need a DC/DC step up booster.

                          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                          miljumeM 1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • sundberg84S sundberg84

                            @miljume said in 💬 My Slim 2AA Battery Node:

                            INPUT_PULLUP

                            What kind of sensor do you use? Some sensors have an analog and digital output. The Digital should return either 0V or VCC while the analog returns all analog values between 0V and VCC.

                            You could try an external pulldown resistor of 10k to ground if you think the pin is floating.

                            Another approach is to elaborate with a photoresistor only and to get a clean 0/1 use an transistor. If the voltage drops to low though for the pin to get a clear 1 (2.4v on 3.3v atmega) you might need a DC/DC step up booster.

                            miljumeM Offline
                            miljumeM Offline
                            miljume
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #14

                            @sundberg84 Thank you for your feedback! I used the design found here so the sensor is OK. I had also tried to use a pulldown resistor but it showed that I had used too low value. When I use 10k as you suggested it worked like a charm, thank you! What I dont understand is why I should need the pulldown resistor in the first place? Shouldn't it be possible to solve that in the software?

                            sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • miljumeM miljume

                              @sundberg84 Thank you for your feedback! I used the design found here so the sensor is OK. I had also tried to use a pulldown resistor but it showed that I had used too low value. When I use 10k as you suggested it worked like a charm, thank you! What I dont understand is why I should need the pulldown resistor in the first place? Shouldn't it be possible to solve that in the software?

                              sundberg84S Offline
                              sundberg84S Offline
                              sundberg84
                              Hardware Contributor
                              wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                              #15

                              @miljume - I dont think you can solve a floating pin in the software. Im not that experienced with internal pullups either so someone else have to answer that. Good you have it working though!

                              Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                              RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              1
                              • KoreshK Offline
                                KoreshK Offline
                                Koresh
                                Contest Winner
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #16

                                Internal pull-up resistors have 20-50k resistance. It may be not enough.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                1
                                • B Offline
                                  B Offline
                                  buxtronix
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #17

                                  For those looking to 3d print a case for this, if you cant find the right sized ducting, I designed one thats unobtrusive:

                                  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2418194

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • Aki1988A Offline
                                    Aki1988A Offline
                                    Aki1988
                                    wrote on last edited by Aki1988
                                    #18

                                    Hello, i made a few. is someone interested in these nodes in Germany? We switched to an other Home Automation (wife: you can't build something DIY in our house that is so important than a light switch ...) system and so those nodes were never used. All nodes come untested and most of them unflashed. It would be a shame if they would just lay around here. Shipping is on you, the nodes and other s no longer needed (mysensors) stuff is free. Nodes are in Germany, and i will send them via DHL. if you are interested write me a mail to aki1988 (at) me (dot) com - first come first serve.
                                    Edit: gone

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    1
                                    • J Offline
                                      J Offline
                                      Johove
                                      wrote on last edited by Johove
                                      #19

                                      I built a couple of these nodes last year, I used 8 MHz internal, fuses off, and a DTH22.
                                      This a node on a dometizc network, it measures temperatur and internal voltage every 6 minutes, then it deep sleep.
                                      I can confirm that these nodes last more that a year on 2 aa batteries.

                                      0_1517680680891_Image.png

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • G Offline
                                        G Offline
                                        GHoggan
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #20

                                        Hello, I placed an order through the openhardware.io website with Itead last night.
                                        They came back this morning with a ticket saying :
                                        Your gerber file: 571bf156249971713bb044ea.zip (Normalized Name:A100151928AN_A2AGLF002A.zip) in the order #100151928 is rejected.
                                        The reason is:
                                        The Gerber file doesn't have outline layer , please add it and re-upload the new file , thank you.
                                        Can you please assist as I don't really want to cancel my order.
                                        Thanks in advance
                                        Glenn

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • joaoabsJ Offline
                                          joaoabsJ Offline
                                          joaoabs
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #21

                                          Hi,

                                          This board has an ICSP header. Does it mean that I can use it to burn the bootloader in a new ATMega328 chip?
                                          I've been trying to do burn the minicore in a board with all the required capacitors and resistor but without the NRF, but without success...
                                          Any idea?

                                          Thanks,

                                          sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
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