https://hackaday.com/2016/05/31/fixing-the-terrible-range-of-your-cheap-nrf24l01-palna-module/ https://web.archive.org/web/20180825143815/http://blog.blackoise.de/2016/02/fixing-your-cheap-nrf24l01-palna-module/

@Sandolution , @bwn , @electrik Did anyone of you find a solution for this problem?

@tiana I have not used it, but it is possible to create different revisions. See https://www.openhardware.io/view/4/EasyNewbie-PCB-for-MySensors#tabs-revisions as an example.

@yveaux thank you for letting me know about this great project! The thread is also very useful. I managed to find a relatively quiet range in channels.

@alowhum thank you

Hello Berk, Is it possible for you to share your schematic for this project please? especially the power part?

@anticimex You are too fast Now the CERN files are uploaded!!

I have already published all the documentation, on my website, GitHub and openhardware.io For now I leave the node as finished. SmartHome: Wireless LED RGBW Controller – 00:55— giltesa

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

Hi @talhatec , The remote controls work well. 4 months ago I installed a new battery and from time to time I press the button to check if they continue with battery, they sleep correctly. I remain pending to change the RF antenna for a better one and to improve some failures in the connectors of the battery that at the moment are very fragile (the pad has little copper). The casing can be purchased online https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bluetooth-4-0-GPS-Tracker-Locator-Smart-Alarm-Anti-lost-Device-Self-Portrait-SC/401394156488 For now the project is stopped, I want to test the Aqara sensors (I buy them this week), in any case the domotics is now my lowest priority.

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

@dzungpham0703 I buy them on Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180706102504&SearchText=HTTM If you apply hot air it is easy to take off the white "double sided tape" and the plastic.

Please append support RS485

It depends if you want to use an antenna with some gain or not

Hi guys, I've made MySensors node based on that sketch, but I can't figure out, how to send V_VAR message from Home Assistant to set rollTime. Any ideas? I'm interested in UI number_input or something simmilar.

I have uploaded photo, see above...

@kalina, Thanks. So it will not work for my configuration. Wall switch (push button) is already installed. No possibilities to draw more electrical wires. Moreover, if i put the board near the light, i have just the Neutral and the return wire from the wall switch. No Live wire to power on the mysensors board. I think in my ase the best way is to manage everything in my garage in the electrical main board where all the wires are mapped. I can get L + N for mysensors power supply. And i can continue to reuse the original wall switch independently of the Mysensors board.

@Alan-Minor said in Small nRF24L01+ Shield for ESP8266 Wemos D1 Mini: @NeverDie "Move" the trace to a different pin. AFAIK, yes.

The RPI becomes an ethernet gateway.

id also second the use of 18650s

@mfalkvidd Thank you! It works. I was searching for "A0" not the GPIO number (newbie here) Thank you once again.

Hi @blackchart, Unfortunately, all devices are sold out. Further production is possible only when ordering more than 10 devices (in this case, I also can modify the device to suit your needs).

Sorry. Disregard.

I like those relays. Is that 3 different switched outputs? One thing I always liked about european wall switches is that they give you more room for components. I would like to use a similar type of relay for my in-wall switches, but with the way US single gang wall boxes are, there is a pretty narrow space constraint. I might be able to fit it if I did away with the thermal fuse, but I don't want to give up tat bit of added safety just for that.

Ah.... Ok

@antonholmstedt a pro mini fits if you cut the corners, check out https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6612/door-sensor-remix-of-some-mys-community-efforts

I liked domoticz (was very easy to set up and use). Together with dzVents scripting wasn't that difficult either. But I also had some problem with it lately, so I was actually thinking about switching to openhab (2).

@schif Hello, Thanx for you comment. Yes you can use it but use a ceramic capacitor

Any news on this project? Thanks!

What are the parameters of this radio, I could not get it to work. Suspicions that he had no speed 250.

Forgot about this guy... Updated the project a little, the PCB now have footprints for both normal and PA+LNA modules. The old boards are still available on the github repository if needed. Even with the extra length added to the PCB with the dual footprint, it is overall still smaller than a regular non SMD NRF24L01 module.

I see a lot of "!TSF" and "NACK" which seems to be radio communication problems. That's MySensors related and can be related to many things, from soldering problem to power / capacitor issues. In MY_DEBUG mode you should see your temp/hum printed on serial every ~15s so there is something wrong there, either wiring or a code issue. Ty with the example included with the library "i2c_SI7021.h", without any MySensors related stuff, to see if your sensor is detected. You should see temp/hum on the serial.

In deep Sleep the cunsumption is below 19µA, but i have to send with PA_MAX. On some Windows the open/close frequency is verry high, so the battery is to fast emty. The CR2032 is good, but i want more "lifetime"

@alexsh1 Hi Alex, I tested the Sanity check on the the Arduino sensor node, and status came back OK. However I could get this to work on the Raspberry Pi, seems like this function is not yet supported. At least I couldn't find any info on it using the "./configuration -h". I don't have a AMS1117 available so I can test that. I connected my Arduino Nano and NRF24L01+ to the Raspberry Pi via USB, that would really well. So I might just use this solution instead as I see little benefit of connecting the NRF24L01 directly to the GPIO pins on the Raspberry Pi. Next step is to start building some battery powered sensors that I can use, and get MyController setup properly.

@gohan Yes, you are right, this is done by cnc router.

Hi @aramko-aramko. Unfortunately, this model is already sold. You can look at the upgraded version of this device - MDMSNode "Lighting" Rev 1.1.

Any plans on an rf69 version?

Hi @berkseo. Thanks for the suggestion, but could you describe in more detail? As for my TODO list, there is already a task to add 485 interface to the gateway. My latest device "xRoom" have this interface. ps/ Where have you gone? I have been working on "xRoom" shield. A small announce: Do you remember the discussion about multinode? So, it will be available soon))

@EddyG PCB received and tested, new version (v1.1) available here and on github.

Okay, finally got the original nrf24l01 SMD modules with the square chip visible... As exptected, things work just fine now, so the culprit of my issues was really the incompatible/fake "nrf24l01" SMD modules with the epoxy blob. If you want to use normal nrf24l01+ modules together with this smd gateway, DO NOT USE the smd module with the epoxy blob, as they won't work. Using only the fake SMD modules might work, too, but mixing the fake modules with real ones does not work.

The choice of MOSFET can be tricky. Seems that irlz44n was discontinued so you may need to find one adapted to the voltage and current you want to handle. In all the cases you need to get a logic MOSFET too, meaning that they are fully open usually around 1 to 3V. Also I'm sort of confused as it seems to me that L7812CV is a Voltage regulator, not a MOSFET. So if you are actually using that in the MOSFET spot it will definitively not work. Especially if you are handling high current or voltage I would recommend using one from a reputable source for your MOSFET, I recently switched from mouser / digikey / aliexpress to mostly use http://www.arrow.com as you get free regular shipping, event if you order a couple of components (no affiliation to them whatsoever).

Hi, nice projet. I am very interested in it. But why you are using 5 V and not 3.3 V? The ATmea328 works with 3.3 V too and the NRF have to use 3.3 V. The only restriction on 3.3 V is the clock limitation for the Atmega (8 MHz). But with no crystal it don't care. For example you could use an HLK-PM03 instead of HLK-PM01 and remove the linear voltage regulator. So you get more space an everything have the same voltage level. And another point is, it is recommended to use a capacitor (0.1 µF) to ground for each voltage pin (Vcc, Avcc, Aref).

@Oitzu Thanks. I have order an NRF with external antenna and will see if that helps

@vikasjee Alex used the hardware described at the start of this thread. You will find all design documents on Openhardware.io

Firmware upload doesn't seem to work BR Jonas

@tlustoch The node is a very simple one. So I never considered boot loaders, as the node would not need changing sketches during it's lifetime. I have boot loading functionality on my other designs, this one is a minimal board. Any extra chip would beat the purpose of the word "minimal". It's a dumb node for a reason

@acb Hi @acb and others, regarding "Do you know if there is a version of this board that is pad-compatible with the C-versions of these HopeRF RFM69s before I go searching? (Since I believe the C-versions are also pad-compatible with the RFM95s…)" - did you find any alternative? I'm in the same boat looking for an adapter from NRF24 to the footprint of RFM69*C = RFM95/96. Thanks, Joost

Yes its for an Sony Product, because i tested around a bit. The IP is unique and the mac was also tested with DE:AD:BE:EF:FE:ED with no results

@MiKa which box are you referring to? Generic boxes are available here: https://www.mysensors.org/store/boxes

@joaoabs said in My Slim 2AA Battery Node: Thx! Done!

When you read the data sheet correctly you can see, that the distance between the pins is different for a AA and AAA battery holder. That`s why I was asking if somebody can recommend a holder that fits.

@fets So far, I have only built the 5x5 board (but the others should be schematically identical). The only issue I have found so far is that I cannot get the ISP port to work. But I have checked and I have an identical setup on the 1.0 board and that worked, so I suspect the programmer is too weak to drive the net on this one. So it is not a board-issue per se, and might only be an issue on the 5x5 board as routing is the most complex on that one due to the size.

@Fat-Fly MySensors is now natively supported to run on Raspberry. See here for instruction on how to build: https://www.mysensors.org/build/raspberry

@AWI said: Can you share what is in the box? I am getting curious.. arduino_nrf24l01.rar

I've a sensor running with naked 328p, 3.3V, 8 MHz internal Osz and DHT22. Maybe I'm lucky?!

@xefil said: Thanks @hek and @kalle Sorry, but I'm not good to understand the debug of the scanners. In the RF24/examples/scanner/ the range is between 0000->->->7777 Those are the high order nibble of the channel byte. The low order nibble is just below it. The 125 channel numbers are printed "sideways" in hex. I would expect a list of channels between 1 and 13. You're thinking of wi-fi. This isn't wi-fi. In the second scanner (wiFi scanner found on arduino forum) It's more accurate. It seems noisy between channel 3 and 9. So, the questions are: What does default channel 76 mean? 2476Mhz? yes Would mean above channel 13, on channel 14. In this case these channels are free, based on the results. I've seen I can use: #define RF24_CHANNEL 76 //RF channel for the sensor net, 0-127 How to interpret the scanners result? Most of all the "RF24/examples/scanner/" which has an output I cannot identify in a channel. The bigger the number below the channel, the more active it is. I would like to understand the result and so choose the right channel, not only trying without knowing what I'm doing Thanks a lot for the support! Simon

@brettzky84 there is TONS of this on the Vera website, and many many folks are connecting them with a (serial I think) interface that you may buy and the plugin @Dwalt mentioned.

@TommySharp Hmm dont really remember, but I think this was the solution https://github.com/knolleary/pubsubclient/issues/46 ntruchsess created this issue in knolleary/pubsubclient closed PubSubClient.h:72: error: section attribute not allowed for ‘<anonymous>’ #46