@Andrew-Currie Downloaded KiCad and used it to import jBoard2.brd and output .gbr files via Plots plus the .drl file. Checked using GerbView and uploaded to PCBWay. Hopefully this will now work...
When you read the data sheet correctly you can see, that the distance between the pins is different for a AA and AAA battery holder. That`s why I was asking if somebody can recommend a holder that fits.
Hello,
I'm thinking about upgrading this board to include pinout for LIS3DH breakout board, like this one :
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LIS3DH-Three-Converters-Motion-Accelerometer-Triaxial-Acceleration-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Development-Board-Replace-ADXL345/32840326778.html
and ditch the ADXL shield as it's not a good solution, it has either the ADXL345 which uses too much power, or the ADXL362 which is ultra low power but lacks advanced functionality like tap/double tap detection.
I would like to have feedback of users on this (do it sound useful ?), and also know if anyone uses the SMD footprints on the board, for leds and for reserve capacitors, as it could be a cleaner board without those footprints.
I would make the following changes :
put footprint for LIS3DH accelerometer along the "NModule connector" as it has too many pins to put elsewhere
keep only one I2C footprint on the side, for "GY-49" MAX44009 light sensor breakout board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-49-MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32828654450.html
temperature/humidity would be via the existing "SMD" footprint, it's not through hole but very easy to solder as it's 2.54mm pad spacing
remove SMD footprints for LED, add footprint for through hole reserve capacitor, keep SMD footprints for reserve capacitors only if I have space for them
shield would be a bit extended to go over the 2 M2 holes in the "power" part of the NModule, so it could be fitted with spacers and nylon screws and have stable/reliable mechanical connection between NModule and Shield. Basically this would be the footprint of the shield :
So in the end it would make one shield to have Temperature/Humidity/Light/Acceleration or Temperature/Humidity/Light/Door.
@kalina, Thanks. So it will not work for my configuration. Wall switch (push button) is already installed. No possibilities to draw more electrical wires.
Moreover, if i put the board near the light, i have just the Neutral and the return wire from the wall switch. No Live wire to power on the mysensors board.
I think in my ase the best way is to manage everything in my garage in the electrical main board where all the wires are mapped. I can get L + N for mysensors power supply. And i can continue to reuse the original wall switch independently of the Mysensors board.
@shabba
Hi, unfortunately I don't have time and patience for doing BOM's on all of my projects but in this case it's not very hard as the external component count is greatly reduced by using the NRF51822 RF SOC which is a PTR5518 module from Aliexpress. Other than that there is the Microchip touch sense controller - MTCH105 and the usual smd resistors(0603) and caps. Other than that you're not forced to use and solder the onboard dc-dc converter so you don't have to worry about those components - you just need to solder the 3V_EN jumper to use the Livolo 3V output coming from the main relays/power supply board.
I have already published all the documentation, on my website, GitHub and openhardware.io
For now I leave the node as finished.
SmartHome: Wireless LED RGBW Controller – 00:55— giltesa
