PIR am312
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Anyhow, looking at the reference circuit design in the am612 "sensor manual" (see page 7 of http://akizukidenshi.com/download/ds/senba/Pir-Am612.pdf), I see that there is a photoresistor (a GL5528) there. Is it somehow adjusting the sensitivity based on the ambient light level? The GL5528 appears to be sensitive to 540nm light (i.e. green light) according to its datasheet
(http://akizukidenshi.com/download/ds/senba/GL55 Series Photoresistor.pdf). I'm not sure that's a trick that the am312 can do. Can it?I just love these Ford vs. Chevy debates. :)
By the way, where should that photoresistor be positioned? Under the IR lens, or should it have its own window? I'm guessing under the IR lens to keep things "tidy".
I just love these Ford vs. Chevy debates. :)
We are French, we only have Peugeot vs Citroën debates, or Renault vs Peugeot :D
Else @scalz misunderstood what we were talking about, he was just talking about changing the "on" duration of the sensor by software (as it's fixed on the am312). No the sensitivity.
About the photoresistor in the doc is connected to the OEN pin (Output ENable) of the AM612 (one more pin the am312 doesn't have), so that with the reference design it will only trigger and switch on the light when it's dark.
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I recieved mine today and changed a HC-SR501 on a working Slim node to this but I failed to make it work.
I then tried to remove the voltage regulator (red arrow) and solder the jumper (blue) to power it from the bat but even with fresh batterys... no go! I watched the circuit to make sure i found VCC/GND and out but maybe i understood something wrong.
The second i put the old HC pir back that one worked again.
Any ideas?Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
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I recieved mine today and changed a HC-SR501 on a working Slim node to this but I failed to make it work.
I then tried to remove the voltage regulator (red arrow) and solder the jumper (blue) to power it from the bat but even with fresh batterys... no go! I watched the circuit to make sure i found VCC/GND and out but maybe i understood something wrong.The second i put the old HC pir back that one worked again.
Any ideas?Any chance you hooked up the polarity wrong when you tried it out? I did that to one of my three and completely fried it. It's dead.
Your PCB looks the same as mine, but the silkscreen is different. The polarity you marked on your photo looks correct to me, and it agrees with the "+" sign on your silkscreen. Mine didn't come with a "+" on the silkscreen.
Unrelated to your question, but I notice that yours came with a different lens. Do you have a link to where you bought yours?
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Any chance you hooked up the polarity wrong when you tried it out? I did that to one of my three and completely fried it. It's dead.
Your PCB looks the same as mine, but the silkscreen is different. The polarity you marked on your photo looks correct to me, and it agrees with the "+" sign on your silkscreen. Mine didn't come with a "+" on the silkscreen.
Unrelated to your question, but I notice that yours came with a different lens. Do you have a link to where you bought yours?
@NeverDie http://www.ebay.com/itm/262527326905?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I had two and tested them, maybe I fried them... but i dont think so.
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@NeverDie http://www.ebay.com/itm/262527326905?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I had two and tested them, maybe I fried them... but i dont think so.
Check to see how much current it's drawing when you have it powered up. If it's fried, it will be drawing more than expected.
Also, try connecting a voltmeter between the middle pin and ground with it powered on. When it detects motion, you'll notice a change in voltage.
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@NeverDie http://www.ebay.com/itm/262527326905?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I had two and tested them, maybe I fried them... but i dont think so.
The lens in your photo doesn't appear to match the lens in the ebay listed where you got it from. The lens in the ebay listing is the kind I have, which I'm not happy with. I hope you get yours working, as it would be nice to know if your lens works better than mine.
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The lens in your photo doesn't appear to match the lens in the ebay listed where you got it from. The lens in the ebay listing is the kind I have, which I'm not happy with. I hope you get yours working, as it would be nice to know if your lens works better than mine.
@NeverDie thanks for your tips!
Will try it out and let you know about the lens. -
I just now threw together a primitive barebones breakout board for the AM612:
It wastes a lot of space because of the large SR501 lens cover that it's meant to go with. Also, it's really just "Plan B", as I'm hoping Version 1 of NCA78's PIR shield will work.
Nonetheless, if anyone wants the PCB files for my primitive breakout board, I can post them.
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I just now threw together a primitive barebones breakout board for the AM612:
It wastes a lot of space because of the large SR501 lens cover that it's meant to go with. Also, it's really just "Plan B", as I'm hoping Version 1 of NCA78's PIR shield will work.
Nonetheless, if anyone wants the PCB files for my primitive breakout board, I can post them.
@NeverDie - well both modules draw 12uA and changes to 111uA on motion... reading on VCC. That would suggest they are working... strange I cant get an interupt then... I also see the battery voltage in motion and 0v when not on signal out... so thanks for the tips... the module is working. I just need to figure out why it doesnt trigger the interrupt.
I will work some more on this later... only thing that can trigger a interrupt is me touching the metal pinheader. Tried adding a capcitor but no luck.
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RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz -
@NeverDie - well both modules draw 12uA and changes to 111uA on motion... reading on VCC. That would suggest they are working... strange I cant get an interupt then... I also see the battery voltage in motion and 0v when not on signal out... so thanks for the tips... the module is working. I just need to figure out why it doesnt trigger the interrupt.
I will work some more on this later... only thing that can trigger a interrupt is me touching the metal pinheader. Tried adding a capcitor but no luck.
@sundberg84 said in PIR am312:
@NeverDie - well both modules draw 12uA and changes to 111uA on motion... reading on VCC. That would suggest they are working... strange I cant get an interupt then... I also see the battery voltage in motion and 0v when not on signal out... so thanks for the tips... the module is working. I just need to figure out why it doesnt trigger the interrupt.
I will work some more on this later... only thing that can trigger a interrupt is me touching the metal pinheader. Tried adding a capcitor but no luck.
Maybe your circuit needs a pull-up or pull-down resistor on the interrupt pin to make it work? That's what it sounds like.
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@sundberg84 said in PIR am312:
@NeverDie - well both modules draw 12uA and changes to 111uA on motion... reading on VCC. That would suggest they are working... strange I cant get an interupt then... I also see the battery voltage in motion and 0v when not on signal out... so thanks for the tips... the module is working. I just need to figure out why it doesnt trigger the interrupt.
I will work some more on this later... only thing that can trigger a interrupt is me touching the metal pinheader. Tried adding a capcitor but no luck.
Maybe your circuit needs a pull-up or pull-down resistor on the interrupt pin to make it work? That's what it sounds like.
@NeverDie - A good idea again... just took for granted that was handeled in the sensor since im used to that with the other pirs... silly me. I will give it a shot later.
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I got my am312 and I confirm the blind spots and a range of about 3 meters. I'll have to try to use a bigger lens from the 501 and see what happens.
PS I also compared side by side with a radar sensor and have to say I am impressed with the sensibility and the "all-around" visibility -
@NeverDie - A good idea again... just took for granted that was handeled in the sensor since im used to that with the other pirs... silly me. I will give it a shot later.
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@sundberg84 Did you get it working? I have exactly the same problem.
I added a 10K pullup resistor but still no luck.
@maghac - no and I didnt have time to try the pulldown either. My next step would be a transistor. I see a current reaching 114uA when triggered so the module works but maybe 114uA isnt enough to trigger the interupt? Someone that knows?
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@maghac - no and I didnt have time to try the pulldown either. My next step would be a transistor. I see a current reaching 114uA when triggered so the module works but maybe 114uA isnt enough to trigger the interupt? Someone that knows?
@sundberg84 said in PIR am312:
@maghac - no and I didnt have time to try the pulldown either. My next step would be a transistor. I see a current reaching 114uA when triggered so the module works but maybe 114uA isnt enough to trigger the interupt? Someone that knows?
I never actually hooked mine up to an atmega328p. I just had it in a test jig, where an nfet turned on/off an LED based on the voltage of the middle pin. That worked fine.
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So I soldered an am612 to NModule PIR shield, put an SR501 lens but unfortunately I experience a similar behavior with some blind zones where I can move with the PIR bothering to trigger. I'll do more tests (especially when playing with sensitivity, it's supposed to be at max value now) but it is disappointing at the moment :(
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I never actually played around with SR501's. Do they have the same type of "blind spot" issue? I know that for professional grade motion detectors, it's not uncommon to have two PIR's inside them. I had always thought it was for avoiding false alarms, but maybe it's more of a coverage issue.
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The SR501 I tested at home has actually better range and coverage. I am now testing the radar sensors and they seems interesting as they "see" through walls too :D
PS of course radar sensors are good only for powered sensors
The SR501 I tested at home has actually better range and coverage. I am now testing the radar sensors and they seems interesting as they "see" through walls too :D
PS of course radar sensors are good only for powered sensors
Yes radar sensors seem great, I have received one (5.8GHz version with 2 PCB boards) and ordered RCWL-0516. I will test them for detection through my false ceiling, but I'm not sure they will be stable when powered using HLKs ?
