@ceech
I really like this design, however I think it has a problem:
According to the datasheet the TPS610986DSET has no feature to disconnect the load at low battery voltages. I think the result will be that e.g. a ESP32 or other power hungry chips will not power up properly. The TPS63031 might therefore be a better fit.
btw.: Do you still sell assembled versions of this design? Would you be willing to create a new version with the TPS63031 and probably also with 10 or 20F capacitors or an board to solder your own capacitors.
Best regards
Tobias
Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions:
in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain?
is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways?
i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board?
Thank you very much
@m26872 said in Encapsulated transformers instead of traditional switching power supplies like Hi-Link:
for me the sunny season is too short.
I havn't yet tried to use solar batteries in winter so maybe I have the same problems (despite the fact that I'm living 3 degrees south of you), but I have backup solution for very cloudy winter days - regular battery charger.
@alexsh1 the reason i am using the 18650's is the fact i have a steady stream of them coming in for my large battery packs. I have a couple hundred that aren't dead but just aren't quite up to to the standard i am putting in my big packs.
Hi all,
Should anyone face the same problem, I found the root cause: brownout threshold. I burned a new bootloader (Optiboot 8.0) without such trigger and the node has been working with used batteries (~2.7V) since May.
Hope this helps.
It might be possible to power the Arduino off the output pin. Since they are dirt cheap I would just test it.
But like the others I would suggest to use the interrupts of pin 2 and 3.
For my battery powered 3.3v pro mini I use 3.3v pir sensors without the voltage regulator. The standard 5v pir needs at least 4.5v just to step it down internally to 3.3V. On these I had problems with voltage stability because I stepped it up to 5V. Also the battery lifetime was poor.
With the 3.3v pir version this thing runs for months. With the solar panel on top maybe forever.