@chbla said in Multiple uses battery RFM69 node:
Can anyone suggest a source for the parts? Are there any sources that you can upload the files by any chance?
If you mean can you upload a BOM to a company and then it generates a basket of the items, then i know that farnell and maybe digikey do this. But i only use this feature that is built into EAGLE pcb designer, so i'm not sure if they support it directly on their websites, might be worth a look.
http://www.farnell.com/
http://www.digikey.co.uk
@berkseo
Yes, it's available here. The documentation is a little bit scarce I admit but if you understand Apache MyNewt and its build system it should be pretty straightforward theoretically.
I will add more details when I have the time. The code was tested and it's in production. Works without a glitch so far.
@NeverDie said in The Harvester: ultimate power supply for the Raybeacon DK:
Edit: This guy found another couple of possibilities as to what the E50D chip might be: https://www.electroschematics.com/pfm-module-circuit-surgery/
I have the same board as this guy. I removed the LED and resistor because they are on the input side, so they are almost useless anyway. For a board such as this, with a promised 0.9v startup voltage on the input side and a promised 5v on the output side, they really should have been attached to the output, not the input, to show roughly when it is that the board is producing useable output.
At a 20mv "keep alive" input voltage, the input measures 0.5ma using a uCurrent Gold. That means the keep alive energy is 10 microWatts. Offhand, for the application we've been discussing on this thread, I suspect that number is too high to be practically useful, because at only 20mv input we'd be collecting far less than 0.5ma current from a tiny panel. At least now we know.
Hi @Siddharth-Velappan
The warmup time of the MH Z19b is 3 minutes. So 2 is probably fine, but you could probably do 3 just in case. Although 2 would save your more battery time.
Do you mind explaining your setup a bit more? I would love to do something similar but I do not know where to get started with the PIC microcontroller!
@m26872 said in Encapsulated transformers instead of traditional switching power supplies like Hi-Link:
for me the sunny season is too short.
I havn't yet tried to use solar batteries in winter so maybe I have the same problems (despite the fact that I'm living 3 degrees south of you), but I have backup solution for very cloudy winter days - regular battery charger.
It might be possible to power the Arduino off the output pin. Since they are dirt cheap I would just test it.
But like the others I would suggest to use the interrupts of pin 2 and 3.
For my battery powered 3.3v pro mini I use 3.3v pir sensors without the voltage regulator. The standard 5v pir needs at least 4.5v just to step it down internally to 3.3V. On these I had problems with voltage stability because I stepped it up to 5V. Also the battery lifetime was poor.
With the 3.3v pir version this thing runs for months. With the solar panel on top maybe forever.
