Battery-powered irrigation controller

Tmaster

i think that AA batteries hardly approach the 1A discharge if its your selenoid rate.
Another thing you can change is NEVER trust on a incoming signal to shutdown you valve. if power fails or signal is missing ,you selenoid will be open all life because gw never send the signal in time .

what i did is: call time from GW , store it on irrigation node ,and then after time out(2 hours) it shuts off alone .in fact i don't have any code to control valves from gw . Gw only receive status for domotics. all time for valves On and Off its on the node.
See the timeaware sensor example to know how get time from gw and how handle it
you can just use for ex:
if(hour()==09) { //if its 9 hour AM TURN ON
digitalwrite (valve, HIGH)
}
if(hour()==10) { //if its 10 hour AM TURN OFF
digitalwrite (valve,LOW)
}

Or on shutdown implement a "time out"timer (if millis have been passed turn off) like on "blink without delay" example

https://github.com/mysensors/MySensorsArduinoExamples/blob/master/examples/TimeAwareSensor/TimeAwareSensor.ino

user2684

@Tmaster that's a very good advice, especially if keeping it open for too long could create any damage. But I'd rather keep the logic on the controller otherwise I'd need to flash a new sketch on a weekly basis. The timeout approach would probably be more close to my requirements, even if millis() doesn't work for sleeping nodes, I can still work with the time as you suggested.
Another issue I'm experimenting with this valve is the loss of pressure, which is of course expected but it is so strong I cannot cover my garden correctly :-/ So an alternative I was evaluating is to hack my legacy irrigation controller which is very basic but I need to find a way to handle the rotary encoder. But on the same time I don't want to move away so soon from those valves ;-)

Tmaster

the only desvantagem you have is ; not having main power there .Because if you have it you coud use standart 24v AC irrigation valves ,controlled by 5vDC as i did and then if power fails it just goes off, because they need current(+-200mha) for work. And they are cheap. the bi state 9v version cost more than 30€ and i never use it

gohan

Timeout is a nice safe feature, but also could be that if you loose connection to controller for more than X minutes it should shut everything down.

user2684

@Tmaster that's my issue, I don't have power there so I was trying to find out a way to have this working with batteries. But regardless of the issues I'm experiencing, the idea to add an additional safe guard is definitely great, thanks again for the advice!

user2684

Just to share this pointer from a similar project: http://rayshobby.blogspot.it/2010/06/minty-water-valve-controller.html. It is actually way beyond my knowledge to understand all the steps but I guess could be useful for somebody here.

Changing valve and stepping up to 24v seems too complex for my requirements but adding a big capacitor could be something worth trying also here.

user2684

Yet another quick update on this. I think I was able to mitigate somehow the few issues I had:

Regarding the abnormal battery consumption, I placed two 330uF capacitor between gnd and Vcc of the H-bridge powering the valve and they seem to help. After a few on and off the battery went from 4.70V to 4.68V so it was not affected at all. Not sure if it is a good idea or not but I thought could help the valve to be more gentle against the battery. I've also added a sleep of two seconds just after the digitalOutput pulse so to allow the board not to suffer of the voltage drop before sending the ack back to the controller (it was sometimes lost before).
Regarding the pressure lost at the valve, I was able to gain this pressure somewhere else. First of all I bought new, high quality irrigation sprinklers and they cover with exactly the same pressure almost 50% more ground than the old one. Then I removed a few junctions which were losing additional pressure. Now at least it is usable since I have full coverage of the garden (about 100 square meters) with a single sprinkler.
Regarding the safeguard, I've added a very simple timer to my sketch. When a valve is turned on, the time starts (it just counts the number of cycles to make it simple). If too many cycles have passed by and the valve is still on, turns it off automatically.

Bottom line, I was about to give up with this but now I'm back on track :)

Tmaster

@user2684 said in Battery-powered irrigation controller:

Regarding the abnormal battery consumption, I placed two 330uF capacitor between gnd and Vcc of the H-bridge powering the valve and they seem to help. After a few on and off the battery went from 4.70V to 4.68V so it was not affected at all. Not sure if it is a good idea or not but I thought could help the valve to be more gentle against the battery. I've also added a sleep of two seconds just after the digitalOutput pulse so to allow the board not to suffer of the voltage drop before sending the ack back to the controller (it was sometimes lost before).

AA bateries can't handle much current. You are feeding an solenoid (coil) that probably requires 1A for switch state and it drains too much from aa battery. Buy a 12v /7a battery from chinese brand for 10€ and use a voltage regulator from ebay and you have you problems gone.

user2684

@Tmaster thanks, I'll give it a try as well! regarding the voltage regulator, is there anything able to provide >1A as output as far as you know? Thanks

rozpruwacz

Hi all, I just wan't to share with You my idea about controlling bi-stable solenoids (let it be valves or latching relay, doesn't matter). And I wonder why nowbody considering this solution. I'm talking about this kind of circuit http://www.avrfreaks.net/sites/default/files/Latching relay driver.jpg. And those two transistors that have to be controlled with two pins may be replaced with a push-pull driver like L293 (or L203DD which has built-in clamping diodes) which can be cotrolled with just one pin (HIGH - open; LOW - closed). This L293 will make the hardware interface the same as with monostable relays.
So pros are:

simple circuit (relay, capacitor, L293 IC and additional capacitor for power supply filtering)
simple interface (use it like normal relay)
safe - bi-stable solenoids have maximum pulse with, with this circuit there is no possibility to cross that requirement (the pulse width is defined by the RC constant of the capacitor and solenoid)

Cons are:

the capacitor between relay and the ground has to be quite large about 1-2mF so its size is significant
the l293 ic maybe not very cheap

user2684

Hi, just to spend a final word on this project. Despite the battery consumption is not that great (even if I believe by better sizing the capacitor the result would be much better), three AA battery lasted for more than two months powering the valve on and off twice a day and checking in with the controller every minute. I've changed the battery recently just because the valve operates at 3.6v and I was unsure there was enough power to still perform in a good shape for long. Below the battery discharging trend:

ionu

@user2684 How is your project going now? I am trying to use the same valves and diver board but I can not seem to get it to work. Could you answer some questions for me in order to help me get it to work.

Am i right in saying that if I connect the power leads of the valve to a + source (Li 18650 4.1v 2500ma) it should open the valve and the if I reverse the the leads it should close the valve?

user2684

@ionu very sorry for missing your reply for more than 6 months but I didn't get any notification :-( Your understanding is correct, if you just connect the + and - of the battery to the valve you should hear a "click" and if you reverse the wire, another "click". I wonder if that battery would be powerful enough, I've noticed that valve drains really a lot of current (>1A) when triggering. Try with AA batteries at first, just to check if the valve is functioning.

My project has evolved over the time, let me share a picture below:

1: is the amazing EasyPCB from @sundberg84 RFM69 version
2: since the valve works at 3.7v I'm powering the project with 3 AA batteries. I've noticed the valve works just fine with 4.5v when full, till down to around 3v
3: this is a step down regulator for providing 3.3v to the arduino and the radio. I've soldered it there on the EasyPCB (where a booster is supposed to be soldered) since I needed to use the voltage divider which is not available when using the voltage regulator spot. For this reason the battery is connected to the "<=3.3" plug
4: this is the voltage divider for measuring the battery, since we have 4.5v I've coupled the 1M with a 300k
5: this is the bi-stable valve. Can be found on amazon for 5 euros. Ships from china of course
6: this is a 2200uF capacitor placed between the + and the - of the H bridge controlling the valve. Without it, the huge current drain would destroy the battery shortly
7: this is an analog rain sensor. It is powered on by an arduino pin so to save battery while sleeping
8: this is an analog soil moisture. It is powered on by an arduino pin so to save battery while sleeping
9: this is a button to manually turn the valve on or off. It is connected to the arduino pin 3
10: this is the H-bridge capable of controlling the valve since rated at 2A

The code I'm using, based on NodeManager, is the following:

/**********************************
 * MySensors node configuration
 */

// General settings
#define SKETCH_NAME "Irrigation"
#define SKETCH_VERSION "2.0"
#define MY_NODE_ID 6

// RFM69 radio settings
#define MY_RADIO_RFM69
#define MY_IS_RFM69HW
#define MY_RFM69_NEW_DRIVER

// Advanced settings
#define MY_BAUD_RATE 9600
#define MY_SMART_SLEEP_WAIT_DURATION_MS 1000
#define MY_SPLASH_SCREEN_DISABLED

/***********************************
 * NodeManager modules for supported sensors
 */

#define USE_BATTERY
#define USE_SIGNAL
#define USE_CONFIGURATION
#define USE_ANALOG_INPUT
#define USE_DIGITAL_OUTPUT
#define USE_INTERRUPT

/***********************************
 * NodeManager built-in features
 */

// Enable/disable NodeManager's features
#define FEATURE_DEBUG ON
#define FEATURE_POWER_MANAGER ON
#define FEATURE_INTERRUPTS ON
#define FEATURE_CONDITIONAL_REPORT OFF
#define FEATURE_EEPROM OFF
#define FEATURE_SLEEP ON
#define FEATURE_RECEIVE ON
#define FEATURE_TIME OFF
#define FEATURE_RTC OFF
#define FEATURE_SD OFF
#define FEATURE_HOOKING ON

/***********************************
 * Load NodeManager Library
 */

#include "NodeManagerLibrary.h"
NodeManager node;

/***********************************
 * Add your sensors below
 */

// built-in sensors
SensorBattery battery(node);
SensorConfiguration configuration(node);
SensorSignal signal(node);
PowerManager power(-1,A1,300);

// Attached sensors
SensorRain rain(node,A4);
SensorSoilMoisture soil(node,A5);
SensorInterrupt button(node,3);
SensorLatchingRelay2Pins valve(node,5,6);

/***********************************
 * Main Sketch
 */

void toggleValve(Sensor* sensor) {
  valve.toggleStatus();
}

// before
void before() {
  // setup the serial port baud rate
  Serial.begin(MY_BAUD_RATE);
  /*
  * Configure your sensors below
  */

  // battery sensor
  battery.setMinVoltage(3.2);
  battery.setMaxVoltage(4.6);
  battery.setBatteryInternalVcc(false);
  battery.setBatteryPin(A0);
  battery.setBatteryVoltsPerBit(0.00459433);
  battery.setReportIntervalMinutes(30);

  //signal sensor
  signal.setReportIntervalMinutes(30);

  // valve
  valve.setSafeguard(60);
  valve.setWaitAfterSet(2000);
  valve.setLegacyMode(true);

  // button
  button.setInterruptHook(&toggleValve);
  button.setInitialValue(HIGH);
  button.setInterruptMode(FALLING);
  button.setInvertValueToReport(true);
  node.setInterruptDebounce(1000);
  
  // rain sensor
  rain.setPowerManager(power);
  rain.setReportIntervalMinutes(10);
  rain.setRangeMin(300);
  rain.setReverse(true);

  // soil moisture sensor
  soil.setPowerManager(power);
  soil.setReportIntervalMinutes(10);
  soil.setRangeMin(500);

  // node configuration
  node.setSleepSeconds(60);
 
  /*
  * Configure your sensors above
  */
  node.before();
}

// presentation
void presentation() {
  // call NodeManager presentation routine
  node.presentation();
}

// setup
void setup() {
  // call NodeManager setup routine
  node.setup();
}

// loop
void loop() {
  // call NodeManager loop routine
  node.loop();
}

#if FEATURE_RECEIVE == ON
// receive
void receive(const MyMessage &message) {
  // call NodeManager receive routine
  node.receive(message);
}
#endif

#if FEATURE_TIME == ON
// receiveTime
void receiveTime(unsigned long ts) {
  // call NodeManager receiveTime routine
  node.receiveTime(ts);
}
#endif

Rain and soil moisture are connected to A4 and A5, reports every 10 minutes and are powered on just before taking the measure through pin A1. The button through the hooking function toggles the valve, when pressed. The valve (or better the H-bridge) is connected through pin 5 and 6 (off and on). The node wakes up every minute to pick up from the controller new orders (using smart sleep). There is also a safeguard of 60 minutes (if something goes wrong with the communication, irrigation is turned off regardless after 60 minutes).

Andreas Menzel

@user2684 hi,
Thank you for sharing your project here!!! I've been looking quite a long time until I found it :)

I have a question regarding safety problem. In case the battery drops after opening below the voltage needed to close it again the water would not stop. Do you have an idea how to solve this problem?
Or do you just replace the batteries "early" enough?

skywatch

@Andreas-Menzel That is an old thread, but my thoughts would be to send battery level back often enough so you have time to change it, or better yet send battery level and add solar panel to recharge battery. A lot will depend on usage frequency, temperature, levels of sunlight etc...

You could also add a flow sensor or pressure switch to alert you if the water does not turn off.

user2684

@Andreas-Menzel I personally tend to replace the batteries early enough. I also have at the controller level a couple of safety checks with are ensuring 1) the "close" message is acknowledged by the sensor and if not resend it again 2) a humidity sensor in the ground checking if it is still irrigating after e.g. 2-3 hours the valve is supposed to be closed.
I've noticed if the battery is almost over and unable to close the valve once, it will likely succeed when retrying. Then of course batteries have to be changed.
Over the years I've refined this old project over and over mainly making the capacitor bigger since the valve would otherwise drain so much current to dramatically shorten the battery's life. But this is still border line for the capability of a battery powered sensor I believe.

chamroeun ou

@user2684 I am also planning to build latching valve controller. But my valve is 2" to 4" and Its coil specifications are as follow:
V: 6-20Volt DC (optimal is above 9volt)
Capacitance Required: 4700uF
Coil inductance: 90mH
Pulse duration: 20 to 200mili seconds.

Do you think h-bridge will work or do you have a better suggestion for this? My goal is also to run the controller on battery and place in farm so it must be waterproof.

Andreas Menzel

@user2684 @skywatch thank you for your feedback! :)

skywatch

@chamroeun-ou If you need to reverse polarity then a H bridge would be good - I would aim for 12V (maybe a lead acid battery with solar panel and small charge controler). This assumes a coil pules reversal to change over the relay, if it is dual coil relay then it will be different, but we don't have that info. Also note the coil resistance and therefore current needed. A 6681FNG H bridge would be good as it is rated up to 15V and handles 1A with ease...

Gilles BILLARD

@chamroeun-ou said in Battery-powered irrigation controller:

@user2684 I am also planning to build latching valve controller. But my valve is 2" to 4" and Its coil specifications are as follow:
V: 6-20Volt DC (optimal is above 9volt)
Capacitance Required: 4700uF
Coil inductance: 90mH
Pulse duration: 20 to 200mili seconds.

Do you think h-bridge will work or do you have a better suggestion for this? My goal is also to run the controller on battery and place in farm so it must be waterproof.

HI,
I'm doing quite the same project at the moment; I ordered H bridge and also some flow detectors to check if the bistable valve is really in the desired position ( open not to see a desert, closed not to flood everything)
Powered by 1 solar panel + 9v batteries + load controler + step down converters for Arduino and radio.

Battery-powered irrigation controller

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