What did you build today (Pictures) ?
Looks really good! I like the LED bridge.
Next step: build an entire keyboard and flash QMK to it!
Nice project, I thought about something similar but to operate a fan, which is way harder than communicating with a computer, I should have started with that.
Very little nice sensor that one...
@monte Where do you buy that e-ink displays? they look awesome
@berkseo nice! Just today, I've ordered something similar but with an led mounted sideway, to make more diffused glow of the opaque resin that will cover these:
@Danielo-Rodríguez I've bought mine on aliexpress, but you can find them at several different places. They are produced by a company named Good Display (Dalian Good Display Co., Ltd to be precise). They have different sizes and colors with different price and performace too. Also they are sold by Waveshare, but the displays are the same, I believe.
The other day I received PCB of a long-awaited project. Yesterday and today, I soldered the device, designed and printed the case of the device. It works, wow!!!
I'm surprised no one here has built anything Covid19 related--even something as basic as a handwashing timer or something like that. I, for one, am tired of singing songs to time myself, and getting kids to handwash for the full recommended duration is, well, something I'd rather let automation enforce instead of me!
@NeverDie From these things, which are in the photo above, can make an informant COVID-19. Show the trend, the number of infected people to date in your location, and so on.
A MySensor'ed temperature controller for my utility cabinet, which runs too hot due to all the electronics in there (cable modem, router, switch, etc.)
In its current version it is able to control a 12V 120mm PWM fan, and reads the temperature from 3 DS18B20 temp sensors (inlet, 'ambient' and router).
Later I might add a temperature controller to keep the ambient temperature stable at a a few degrees above inlet, by controlling the fan's dutycycle.
As all sensors in my utility cabinet are powered from 5V USB, I used a step-up converter to generate the 12V required by the fan.
After soldering everything together I wasn't happy with the orientation of the JST headers for the temp sensors, so a small PCB was added to mount them under 90 degrees:
All data and control is routed to Node-red, stored in InfluxDB and graphed in Grafana:
You can see the temperature of the router ('USG') go down with increasing fan rotational speed (lower chart, 'rpm.mean').
Temperature decrease is not as big as I hoped for, so I might need to install a fan with a bigger airflow.
My new gateway with leds for state and the only node I have: A wireless arcade button controller
@Danielo-Rodríguez you might already be aware of this, but all that metal close to the nrf24 antenna will probably block some signal.
Joerideman last edited by Joerideman
Well, it not really a build I plugged in wires, and copied code. Found a random usb charger and put it all in my workspace to be.
And I absolutely love this thing. Maximum of 3 hours work. I was having fun, so it could be more.
I considered that there could and should be a display on this thing, but not for now. I made this, because I have never experimented with temperature sensors and I just received a few. Now I can just see what happens with the temperature in there.
sensor is a AHT10 temperature and humidity.
I used this library: https://github.com/enjoyneering/AHT10
I repurposed Hek's DHT code, and swapped the readings with the AHT's
workspace after but still filling it.
monte last edited by monte
Today I've finally swapped my outdoor relay node with something descent.
This was my very first mysensors node that I've built when I was only starting to mess with arduino, probably around four years ago.
This board uses cheap 5v power supply and an amplified version of NRF24 module from Ebyte. It supposed to be poured with silicone ore resin, but I am yet to find suitable box, the size of this board appeared to be bigger then most of such cases designed for compound pouring. But I'm planning on making next version, with non-isolated power supply, which will help to achieve smaller size.
My new project of a temperature and humidity sensor with an electronic ink display 1.02 Inch ( GDEW0102T4 ), very low power consumption, very small device.
USB + ESP8266 adapter for W2812B LED strip.
Well, this is actually a Tasmota + Openhab build, but could easily be MySensors.
Also worth noting, this 5m 150 led strip draws too much current to reliably use with a USB wall adapter.
Very nice renderings.
W2812B uses about 50mA at full brightness, so you'd need a power supply that can deliver 7,500mA if you run the entire strip at maximum.
@mfalkvidd Yeah, I realize I can only use a portion of the strip, or keep it very dim. I actually bought this with the hopes of flashing with Tuya Convert, but turns out they switched to non ESP modules. So, I figured I would make my own.
ncollins last edited by ncollins
A bed occupancy sensor. 4 50kg load cells, an HX711, and a Wemos D1 to make a wifi scale that rests on a bed slat under the boxspring.
Given the placement and weight distribution it doesn't turn the bed into a huge bath scale, but definitely accurate enough to use the deltas to estimate if there is someone in the bed. I can also tell when our 12lb (5.5kg) dog is on the bed.
I have rules in openhab to turn the overhead fan on and off. Also disables some TTS notifications if somebody is in bed.
markjgabb last edited by
thanks to assistance of some of the people here i now have up and running a front gate controller for my double front gates (Solar powered)
now have a node that monitors the batteries, knows if the gate is open or closed and has a relay for activating the gate
Compact, simple NRF52 motion sensor
Ebyte E104-BT5032A NRF52832 module
MH-SR602 Motion Sensor
LiFePO4 AA Battery
tssk last edited by
MYS PoE MQTT Gateway with 868Mhz LoRa radio in IP55 85mm x 85mm box
- arduino pro mini 3.3V clone
- SX1276 with spring antenna
- W5500 lite
- 5V 802.3at power over ethernet splitter (gutted)
- SPELSBERG IP55 box
My new arduino project wireless weather mini station with electronic ink display 2.9 inches (GDEH029A1), very low power consumption,compact size, housing with magnets. The device can use si7020 / 21, sht20 / 21, HTU20/21D or BME280 sensors. Use the MINEW MS50SFA RF module with nRF5210, nRF52811, nRF52832 chips, or the EBYTE E73 module with nRF52840 and nRF52833 chips. Soon to be available on openhardware.io
tssk last edited by tssk
Prototype of room sensor for stardard electric box
- arduino pro mini 3.3V
- sx1276 radio
- 2x1.5V AA battery holder
- battery measuring circuit according to https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery
- ABB Tango cover (drilled)
Cover is not fully closed to allow air circulation. But I would preffer some method to drill holes/grill into it - any tips to get decent looking result?
any tips to get decent looking result?
- Drill at low RPM so you don't melt the plastic.
- If you're going to drill a bunch of holes to make a kind of grill, then preferably use a CNC (even a cheap one!) to drill them so that they don't look hodgepodge.
@tssk - really like your design! Well done.
@sundberg84 thanks for creating this thread btw. You got the 1st and 1001st post
Today im testing and outdoor node in a new PCB, but I had mixed csk and ce on the radio (it's a dual radio PCB).
@ncollins Just wondering: why 4 load cells per sensor instead of only one?
- At 50kg per cell, 4 would allow me to actually turn the bed into a huge scale if I decided to go down that route
- I don't believe these are intended to support a significant load for extended periods of time, they can permanently deflect. Given they always have the weight of a king size mattress + boxspring, I wanted to distribute that as much as possible
Current issue: outdoor nodes random stops/disappears - maybe during the time when its high humidity, so trying to try some different approaches i read - this multisensor is getting painted with clear nail polish. Also this PCB is a new board im testing, that Im hoping to be the base for my "final" home automation nodes. Still in dev. but great possibilities!
@sundberg84 Gaskets that are held under tight compression seem to work well at holding out moisture. I've seen a number of commercial products that rely on that and only that for in-ground radio sensors.
Here's an example from the new Flume (version 2) water meter monitor:
It gets strapped to your water meter, typically in the ground. All it has is one gasket to seal out everything. This particular box just snaps closed. No screws! Quite a difference from Version 1, which also used a gasket, but had 12 screws holding it snug.
tssk last edited by tssk
@sundberg84 Really like the shape and look of the PCB! I hope I can achieve similar result for my room sensor.
And another of my completed projects is a mini weather station running on nRF52832 and nRF52840, you can install bme280 or si7021, htu21d. Powered by a single cr2450 battery. As always soon to be on openhardware.io
@berkseo By calling it a mini weather station now you'll need to add an anemometer and rain gauge...
@NeverDie Sorry, I didn't know there were rules like that now :), then it would just be a temperature, humidity and pressure gauge with weather forecasting, okay?
franz-unix last edited by
this is my last node. A 3d printable smart USB power hub.
If someone is interested, here all the details.
nagelc last edited by
I am testing a node with a DigiPyro, PYD 1598 motion detector. It is advertised to be low power and runs from 1.8 to 3.6 volts, so should run well with a coin cell. They have to be programmed with several options and I have not found a lot of documentation. I went with what seemed like the most sensitive choices and it seems to work so far. More research needed . ...
I bought a couple of these from DigiKey for around $4 each. Now they are more than $12 each and there is no stock. So, these may not be as good a choice as they seemed at first. We'll see . ...
Joerideman last edited by
The milling topic got my interest and I have been working on getting a machine for myself.
So far I have just assembled the machine and realised milling is a bit more difficult to start then 3d printing.
anyway, I would like to share my progress. I am building video's now
No circuitsboards yet, but here is a introduction of my way to victory.
BearWithBeard last edited by BearWithBeard
Winter time is tinker time!
This is a compact environmental sensor node with an E-Paper display. My goal was to have a decent screen-to-body ratio with a simple and minimalistic display, easy to read from a distance. It is the first design in which I did not use an ATmega MCU. It is also the first time that I used KiCAD instead of EAGLE, soldered no-lead SMD components and worked with an EPD.
- It features a SHTC3 sensor to measure temperature and relative humidity and a VEML6030 to measure the ambient light, so that I can toggle lights or other appliances in the room based on temperature, humidity or light conditions.
- I have also added a MEMS sensor (LIS3DH) to auto-detect the device orientation and rotate the EPD image accordingly and / or detect tap events to toggle between different display modes / data sets.
- It can be powered directly from a 3V source or use the optional 3.3V boost circuit which accepts 1.5V or 3V sources.
I finished soldering and testing all the components today and just started programming the rough "framework". Looks promising so far! But still lots to do, including finalizing the 3D printed enclosure. This is how it is supposed to look in the end:
Hi guys. I recently made a plant watering control sensor with an electronic paper display. Today I did my first tests, ..everything went well
Take a closer look at the max44009 light sensor and the lis2dw12 accelerometer. You can save a few microamps.
First attempt at a modular NRF52805 based board. The smaller board has a Si7021 temp + humidity sensor and a BH1750 light level sensor, both I2C. Ideally, I should be-able to make other sensor boards with the same footprint as long as the sensors are I2C.
- CR2032 Battery (~1.5 years between battery changes)
- 10P 0.5 FPC connector for programming and serial debugging
- 2 LEDs with solderable jumpers
- On/Off switch (I find this really useful, especially when fighting with coin batteries)
- RST button
- Secondary button that I use to force immediate readings
- Footprint for centered button for alternative use as a remote button (my most common MySensors node)
I'll post pictures of the enclosure when it's ready.
I'm also waiting on delivery of a slightly larger version of this board that holds a 2477 battery and a SMD PIR motion sensor.
Very, very beautiful project! I also already have several such radio modules from different manufacturers. Here are just these ebyte specifically, they are without dc-dc. ...I plan to transfer support from nordic sdk to sandeep mistry (just like I did with 52810 and 52811), but how do you flash them under mysensors? Maybe there is already some shorter way?
@berkseo Thank you!
First, I made the compatibility changes to SandeepMistry. This was surprisingly easy. The SDK in SandeepMistry/nRF5-arduino does most of the heavy lifting. I had to modify a few of the precompiler conditions to exclude PWM, change some serial definitions, and update to new handler naming conventions: https://github.com/sandeepmistry/arduino-nRF5/pull/442
Then, I defined a new Generic NRF52805 variant in mysensors/ArduinoHwNRF5 and handled one assumption of LPCOMP: https://github.com/mysensors/ArduinoHwNRF5/pull/12
Last, I had to handle a few small assumptions in the MySensors library: https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/pull/1461
Playing around with enclosure designs for my new node
skywatch last edited by
@BearWithBeard Very nice indeed!
Sensor node on the left, button node on the right.
10P 0.5 FPC connector for programming and serial debugging
How many of the 10 pins do you actually use?
@NeverDie Currently using 6, [GND, VCC, SWDIO, SWCLK, - , TX, RX, -, -, -]
The latest addition to my coin cell nodes, a PIR motion sensor based on the Ebyte NRF52805 module.
The PIR sensor is a Senba S16-L221D-2. I'm measuring around 24uA, which is higher than advertised, but with the 6-7uA from the NRF52805, should still get me 3-4 years on a single 2477.
Today i have assembled the latest revision of my Lighting X3 for DIN rail mounting.
Oh yes, I forgot to share photos of my new project - Multinetwork Mysensors Gateway. The main idea of this gateway is that it can at the same time serve up to four different networks (Lora - RFM9X, 2.4 GHz - NRF24 and ISM band RFM69). These networks can be assembled in separate modules and each user can build own set of modules. The incoming stream will be connected via Ethernet on various ports, for example, the gate will have the IP address 192.168.1.128, and each subnet will be served on ports 5003 - the first subnet, 5004 - the second, and so on ...
@kalina looking great! Is it opensource?
@monte Not certainly in that way. In this project, everything is open source with the exception of the board with an ethernet (based on STM32). The ethernet board was developed by my partners and they are not ready to share it yet. But I hope I can persuade them to do it
@kalina I like how it both consolidates and reduces wall-wart clutter all in one stroke.
I don't see any antennas though. Where do they go? And does having multiple radios packed close together like that create any noteworthy EMI? I knew a guy who had set up an RFM69 hat on his Raspberry Pi but later found that the raspberry Pi produced a lot of RF noise/EMI that reduced the effective range of his gateway. I don't know whether or not that might happen in your case, but I thought I'd mention it to help with your troubleshooting in the event you notice any unexpected range reduction.
@kalina I see. I have the same STM32 chip and was going to use it in one of my next projects, so I asked to get some inspiration
@NeverDie EMI is a big topic. I think there will be no problems. I am going to do some tests of communication
quality for various modules and antennas. As for the antennas, I am going to fixed them to the body through the holes, but I have not yet decided on the location. As for connection antenna to the module you can see the on photo ...
Hello everyone. I want to show you my new device, battery powered air quality sensor. The device also has light, temperature, humidity, and atmospheric pressure sensors. I am currently testing the software.
@berkseo I'm curious: which air quality sensor did you opt to build into your device, and what about it did you prefer over the other available air quality sensors that you might have picked, but didn't? Two or three years ago I looked into a few different sensors, but they looked bigger that what you've settled on and their capabilities were pretty narrow. Hopefully the sensor offerings have gotten better since then.
@NeverDie sgp40 sensor is used, I also test the bme680, but the results are worse there.
hlehoux last edited by hlehoux
My first RFM69 Battery sensor: an ultrasonic sonar to measure the level of my fuel tank (don't laugh, winters can be cold in Burgundy )
Nice work @hlehoux!
Electronics and fuel sounds like a scary combination to me
hlehoux last edited by hlehoux
@mfalkvidd You're right: For production i'm going to build isolation for the sensor not to be in contact
Anyway: The flash point of domestic fuel oil is 55 ° C, which means that fuel oil cannot ignite below this temperature. In addition, in its liquid form, fuel oil is non-flammable at room temperature.
KooLru last edited by
- Temperature and humidity sensor AHT-10
- NRF52823 module
- Power board CR2477
Connected via MYSX connectors
Firmware based on NodeManager library
franz-unix last edited by
my last creation: the d-diot hub v.3.0
The hub A (wood) is a dual MySensors gateway (RFM69 and NRF24) based on two ESP8266 modules and a BLE gateway + RGB controller thanks to an ESP32 module and ESPHome firmware.
The hub B (grey and red) is an IR gateway and RC 433 Mhz gateway based on ESP32 modules with an ESPHome firmware. The hub B has also an integrated step-up and step-down voltage regulator based on Arduino Nano.
To allow the maximum flexibility in placement inside the house, each module can be build as a stand-alone piece of hardware or combined in a single device (see pictures).
The hub is meant to be used with Home Assistant, the case is 3d printable and as usual, if someone is interested, there is a dedicated wiki page with all the details and the build instructions.
KooLru last edited by
I2S/IIC to MYSX converter
Configurable via jumper matrix
@KooLru - very clever sollution for the lines.