What did you build today (Pictures) ?

[Woeka]

@woeka .... and the enclosure is from Surtronics.

[dbemowsk]

So I started work on a PCB for my OLED keypad scene controller. While designing it I wanted to make it with a few different switch configuration options. One design is the current layout like I have posted in my pics. One other proposed layout was one with up, down, left, right and select buttons. I designed it with 9 buttons which would allow for both of these configurations and more. Here is the proposed board:

If anyone can see any problems or have any other suggestions for this design, let me know.

[NeverDie]

@dbemowsk said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

If anyone can see any problems or have any other suggestions for this design, let me know.

You had earlier lamented the low refresh rate. If you have the gumption, how about adding an SPI OLED interface such that it can do either I2C or SPI for the OLED? Having that extra option would only cost you at most 2.54mm in the vertical dimension.

[sundberg84]

Recieved some PCBs today and one is the HLK-PM01 breakout which I will start working on for a project.

[dbemowsk]

@neverdie I'll look into that option. I'll have to see the difference in the pinouts between the I2C and SPI displays. Thanks for the suggestion.

[dbemowsk]

@neverdie I was exploring your suggestion of having both I2C and SPI options for the OLED display. One issue is that I do not have the SPI bus MOSI AND MISO PINS broken out on the headers. Because of this, to run it over SPI, I would have to modify the controller board, which I may do on a future release of the board.

[sundberg84]

Finished assembling my HLK module...

[dbemowsk]

@sundberg84 Out of curiosity, How did you solder your thermal fuse on? What temperature thermal fuse did you use?

[sundberg84]

@dbemowsk 74dgr C and solder it as usual (but quick and make it go down in temp before solder again). No problem. I have longer legs so it can touch the HLK module and that might help.

[dbemowsk]

@sundberg84 the last few I did on my scene controller power supply boards I ended up using an ice pack on it while soldering. I had blown a good handful of these till I figured that out. I use similar 73°C fuses and keep the legs as long as I can and attach it to the side of the HLK case with a tiny dab of superglue.

[mfalkvidd]

Holding the leg with a big pair of pliers is, in my experience, a good way to keep the temperature down. Something like this can absorb a lot of heat:

[dbemowsk]

@mfalkvidd I would agree, but when space is cramped, those are not always a workable solution. Great suggestion though.

[mfalkvidd]

@dbemowsk true. But from the photo sundberg84 posted, there seems to be a lot of space so in his particular case it should work. Needle-nose pliers are also useful. They can't absorb as much heat, but they absorb some (especially if you put them in the freezer first ;-) ) and fit into tight spaces.

[dbemowsk]

@neverdie So because of your suggestion, I decided to explore the revision to the main controller board. I have not posted this revision to OpenHardware.io yet. Thought I'd get some feedback here first.

Some of the minor changes that I made were to the definitions of the headers. The headers now are labaled J1, J2 and J3. One other change was to combine the old J2 and J3 together into one header which is now designated J2. The biggest change was breaking out the MOSI and MISO SPI lines to the new J1 header. All changes are backward compatible with the old switch board hat. Here is the proposed board design. With the SPI bus now broken out, this will now allow the use of SPI capable displays and sensors such as the 128 x 64 OLED display for my current display/keypad board. I will make the changes to that soon.

The schematic is simple.

[NeverDie]

@dbemowsk I thought they were all on the same board. I hadn't realized that they were separate boards. Also, at least on the schematic, the pinout on your pro-mini looks unusual.

[dbemowsk]

@neverdie It was one that I found on EasyEDA that was contributed by a user. Some of the other ones didn't have A4 and A5 for I2C on them. All parts are correct on the board layout though which is what matters.

My setup for these is 3 boards. Power supply, controller and switch/sensor board with faceplate. This is how the 3 boards stack together.

This setup allows me to build different faceplate boards with various switches, displays and sensors depending on what the needs are.

[dbemowsk]

So here is an updated board layout that with the new controller board layout will allow for either a 6 pin SPI or 4 pin I2C OLED display. J4 through J7 are jumper headers that tell whether you are using a 6 pin SPI or 4 pin I2C display.

[NeverDie]

@dbemowsk Or maybe use solder jumpers instead.

[sundberg84]

Building some loggers which i might sell later on.

[sundberg84]

And want to make a tip about smd component organisation...