What did you build today (Pictures) ?


  • Mod

    In case anyone hasn't seen the logger before, it is available at https://www.openhardware.io/view/532/The-Logger-Machine-Short-and-long-term-serial-logging


  • Hardware Contributor

    Another picture from today:
    cd572dd2-1092-478e-bb59-6200ef28ad7a-image.png

    Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???


  • Hardware Contributor

    @sundberg84 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

    Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature

    They don't like it when it's too cold. Check page 4 :
    https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/lithiumcoin_appman.pdf


  • Mod

    @sundberg84 looks like you can ditch the temperarure sensor and just use the battery voltage to measure the temperature 💪



  • 20200422_132110_resized.jpg

    433 MHz ESP 32 MQTT Gateway with proper antenna


  • Hardware Contributor

    @Nca78 - Well, its been around 14-17dgr C today, so almost room temp. Strange
    @Yveaux - hahaha, best answer! Saving uA!



  • @NeverDie sorry if it's a bit off topic, but I see that 10 pin ARM box connector you use in several of your designs, and I was wondering if it offers anything extra in addition to the regular 6 pin programming pins. I'm asking specifically because I want to try some of your nrf52832 designs, but would like to avoid spending extra money on special connectors and cables. Thanks!


  • Hero Member

    @idanronen No, nothing extra. It just conveniently and transparently interfaces to the ribbon adapter cable used by the Nordic nrf52 dev kits for programming external nRF52 MCU's. If you want to roll-your-own, you can do away with most of the pins. I myself migrated to a smaller connector in later designs.



  • @NeverDie thanks for clarifying!
    So for example in the mini breakout board (https://www.openhardware.io/view/471/Ebyte-nRF52832-Small-Breakout-Board) I could just align the 6 pads and use a standard 6 pin pogo programmer right?


  • Hero Member

    @idanronen Yup. If you have more questions, you should probably ask them on a different thread than this one, as it's off topic here.



  • Offtopic in terms of mysensors platform, but somehow tangent to a home automation. I've made a batch of concrete switches/push buttons which are in this case simple buttons with led backlight and all the logic is located centrally in distribution box, based on KNX ABB module. But I am planning on making smarter and more complex version which could use Mysensors as its transport.
    _MG_6056.jpg
    _MG_6063.jpg
    and a photo of insides of one of the prototypes at first stages of development
    11.jpg



  • @monte Nice work! I love the looks of the concrete switches, do you have some links or useful information on how you did it.
    I have a project of a doorbell that could use such a switch.

    Thanks!


  • Hero Member

    @monte It's a real pleasure to see such professional looking design!

    I'm curious though: the button in your teardown looks clear:
    alt text
    so how does it turn black and give the solar eclipse effect? I mean, I can see the 4 LED's that comprise the "sun," but how does the button (the "moon" in this analogy) go from clear to black?



  • @NeverDie tanks for describing it as "professional":)
    The clear button on the last photo was one of prototypes as I've mentioned, frankly process of refining the button part to make it work as it should was the longest part of the development. Now it is made in two stages: at first the transparent acrylic part is cut on laser machine, then it placed into a mold with curing mix of resin and concrete, which makes it's black top layer that blocks the light from below. 3mm acrylic base and 2mm resin top layer.
    But I have to say that next batches will be made the other way, which is already in my mind:)

    @MatiasV thanks! Well, I coluld describe the whole process of making, but it requires a lot of work like making propper mold, the process of trial and error while trying to achieve consistant pour and at last the complex process of making a button that would work without sticking.
    Frankly I don't think it's worth time and effort if you plan tho do only one switch for yourself. But I can give you hints about concrete mixture and other stuff, if you're just interested in it's concrete part.


  • Hero Member

    @monte Now that you've mastered the medium you can cast your own tile to texture a wall:
    alt text

    I met a local architect who did such a thing for her own home. She only had to create a handful of different molds, and then random placement gave the illusion of more than that. Maybe they could be secret panels for hiding all your home automation control equipment behind. High WAF that would be. 😁


  • Admin

    Just made a fun (and useful) sensor / device, using a arduino pro-micro (atmega32u4), and VL53L01 TOF distance sensor.

    It's an auto lock device for my pc, I have mounted the VL53L01 to the bottom of my center monitor, and then have it measure the distance to my body, whenever it exceeds 1m (or is out of range), I increase a counter. When the counter reaches 20 (seconds) I send keypress GUI+L, to lock the screen (works equally well on ubuntu and windows).

    When I return to the desk again, it is detected by the arduino (distance is now under 1m again). And it then sends CTRL+ALT+DEL to start login procedure.

    The arduino sketch is available on https://gist.github.com/tbowmo/7e9934796d47566dc09e7b3bc5b2f208

    next project should probably be to find a better enclosure, and build one for when I return to the office in a month or two, when the corona lockdown is lifted more

    f28a180c-322f-4360-ae28-1a4efc93ecad-billede.png

    8cdc94f7-be29-4706-986e-9583c7c5cd25-billede.png



  • @sundberg84

    I finished my fully functional panel for domoticz, using Display Nextion ...

    I don't know where to post, sorry !!! lol

    20200514_202815.jpg 20200516_211738.jpg 20200516_211820.jpg 20200516_211810.jpg 20200516_211815.jpg


  • Hardware Contributor

    Interupted by our first "Summer" lightning, but in replacing my old Rfm69 gateway (old one works, but uses a ftdi adapter for Serial communication and i have another need for the adapter). In the same time im taking up signing. The node has a atsha chip but I never used it properly which im going to try to fix.

    IMG_20200523_162944.jpg



  • Hi guys,

    today I have finished the 3d printable case of the d-diot hub.

    20200524_101250.jpg 20200524_101318.jpg 20200524_101419.jpg 20200524_101329_HDR.jpg 20200524_101340.jpg

    The hub basically is a Raspberry Pi 3 with the d-diot board (see this topic) that offers the following functionalities:

    • IR Gateway (blaster and receiver) to control every device that has a dummy infrared remote.

    • 433 Mhz Gateway with the RFLink firmware running on the on-board ATMega2560 microcontroller

    • Dual MySensors Gateway: NRF24 (2.4 Ghz) and RFM69 (868 Mhz).

    • Latch circuit to power-on and safely power-off your Pi with a simple button press.

    • SSD1306 I2C Oled display controllable in Home Assistant

    • Radio activity LEDs for IR and Mysensors gateways

    • Nice and powerful web interface thanks to Home Assistant

    • Easy setup and configuration with the d-diot image

    If someone is interested, here the detailed build instructions.



  • @NeverDie My experience shows that the Chinese sensors that are sold on Aliexpress have a low quality printed circuit Board. When used outdoors, they may deteriorate within 1-2 seasons. Inside the house, in a flower pot, the service life is much longer. As for such sensors developed independently, the quality of printed circuit boards that are ordered through the services of jlcpcb, pcbway... very high.



  • @NeverDie I personally took a bottle of nail polish and coated every sensor I had. I had a hunch that moisture seeping might affect the capacitive sensors so I took precautions. They've lasted a year now with no sign of deteriorating.


  • Hero Member

    Thanks! Earlier in 2020 I started a shoot-out of different weatherproofing coatings, and I can already see that Spray Max 680061 is by far performing the best out of all the hard coatings that I tried: https://www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/2k-clear-coat/ So, for that reason, I suspect it would also perform very well at moisture proofing capacitive PCB soil probes.


  • Hero Member

    I built a picoamp current source and tested a picoammeter that I built from Gyro's design that was posted on the EEVblog forum. It turns out it can measure even single digit picoamps to an accuracy of less than a picoamp (i.e. less than one trillionth of an amp!)

    calibration_2mb.JPG

    https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/static-control-requirements-for-picoamp-measurements-using-ucurrent-gold/msg3101836/#msg3101836



  • Today I finally found some time to put a few modules together.
    A cheap solar cell (€1.35 a piece) with recharcheable battery which feeds via a step-up converter (€0.70 /pc) a pro-mini (5VDC). The DS18B20 is read every 5 minutes.
    Now I’m Interested how long this sensor will do its job.

    IMG_4200.jpg



  • Hi, everybody. Yesterday I made a case for my new device with an e-ink display 2.7. the Case turned out to be quite thin. The dimensions of the device in the case are 86.5 mm X 59.5 mm X 11.5 mm. The new device is a continuation of the project - https://www.openhardware.io/view/629/EFEKTA-TempandHum-sensorver-nRF52-E-Ink-display

    photo_2020-07-16_14-59-38.jpg photo_2020-07-16_14-59-41.jpg


  • Plugin Developer

    Man, things are starting to look very professional around here.



  • Made a prototype board for writing a software for one of my projects. Goal was to have everything needed on a board no bigger then a 1.54" eink display, and to make it doable at home by my own.
    I was gladly surprised that everything worked (after a sleepless night of fighting through-layer connections, and soldering/desoldering FPC connectors) 🙂 The only I've messed up is order of connector pins, so the display is connected the wrong way...
    IMG_20200723_172110.jpg
    IMG_20200723_162420.jpg

    It also has pads for SHT30 sensor so it may be somehow useful after development is done.



  • @monte said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

    FPC

    Excellent handwork. I also dealt with such FPC conectors :), here are the correct FPC conectors - https://aliexpress.ru/item/32794813863.html



  • @berkseo Thanks!
    Link doesn't open. I have the right ones, I've just messed up PCB layout. Somehow pins on the board goes in the wrong direction, so the most left pin is #24 instead of #1 🙂



  • @monte fixed the link, html.... not htm



  • @monte By the way, this version of screens is discontinued, it is better to develop software for new versions



  • @berkseo thanks for mentioning that. But as I understand the change in software would be just including another header file, if I'm using GxEPD library. There is a mention on github that there is GDEH0154D67 model as a replacement for GDEP015OC. Or do you mean that they are discontinuing 1.54" displays completely?



  • @monte said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

    Or do you mean that they are discontinuing 1.54" displays completely?

    Yes, I mean that these displays are no longer produced. And it is better to focus on new ones.



  • @berkseo well, that's a shame. They are the perfect size for my purpose. I guess I need to stock few of them, while I can 🙂 Thanks for the tip!



  • @berkseo said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

    @monte said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

    Or do you mean that they are discontinuing 1.54" displays completely?

    Yes, I mean that these displays are no longer produced. And it is better to focus on new ones.

    Just to clear up a potential misunderstanding: The 1.54" EPDs aren't going to vanish anytime soon. Only the GDEP015OC1 has been discontinued and the GDEH0154D67 may follow, too at some point.

    But Dalian Good Display has just launched the GDEW0154M09 this month, which seems to be the successor of the GDEH0154D67 at first sight. There is also the GDEW0154M10, which supposedly has a better contrast due to a new manufacturing process. Waveshare seems to be still selling their version of the GDEH0154D67, but not any of the new ones.

    I don't think you need to hoard them like other poeple hoard their live-long stock of toilet paper these days. 😉



  • My super simple NRF51 touch buttons. I mostly use these to toggle overhead lights that I've converted to Tasmota.

    Screen Shot 2020-07-27 at 9.21.20 AM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-07-27 at 9.22.01 AM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-07-26 at 3.16.10 PM.png


  • Hero Member

    @ncollins Elegant. Does it talk to a gateway, which then talks to your Tasmota, or does it somehow talk directly to the Tasmota? So many things now have Bluetooth as part of them that the possibility of direct communication sometimes exists.



  • @NeverDie Buttons -> Mysensors Gateway -> OpenHab Rules -> Tasmota Switches / Outlets / Extension cords.

    I am tempted to explore the BLE route. It seems to support a majority of my sensor use cases, I like the idea of standardizing on the GATT protocol, and there are already a ton of tools and connectors in place.



  • @ncollins And this is my simple capacitive button, just a button:). Beginning of this story was like this:... once I bought a Chinese capacitive button and was very upset with the quality...
    IMG_20200728_170232.jpg





  • @berkseo said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

    https://youtu.be/kucVWKBBSWk

    Looks really good! I like the LED bridge.



  • @tbowmo said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

    atmega32u4

    Next step: build an entire keyboard and flash QMK to it!
    Nice project, I thought about something similar but to operate a fan, which is way harder than communicating with a computer, I should have started with that.
    Very little nice sensor that one...



  • @monte Where do you buy that e-ink displays? they look awesome



  • @berkseo nice! Just today, I've ordered something similar but with an led mounted sideway, to make more diffused glow of the opaque resin that will cover these:
    6757ae58-33e1-4f37-a7a0-c3031b854aa0-image.png

    @Danielo-Rodríguez I've bought mine on aliexpress, but you can find them at several different places. They are produced by a company named Good Display (Dalian Good Display Co., Ltd to be precise). They have different sizes and colors with different price and performace too. Also they are sold by Waveshare, but the displays are the same, I believe.



  • The other day I received PCB of a long-awaited project. Yesterday and today, I soldered the device, designed and printed the case of the device. It works, wow!!!
    photo_2020-07-28_03-18-09.jpg
    photo_2020-07-29_02-25-59 (3).jpg
    photo_2020-07-29_02-25-59 (3).jpg
    photo_2020-07-29_02-25-59.jpg


  • Hero Member

    I'm surprised no one here has built anything Covid19 related--even something as basic as a handwashing timer or something like that. I, for one, am tired of singing songs to time myself, and getting kids to handwash for the full recommended duration is, well, something I'd rather let automation enforce instead of me! 😉



  • @NeverDie From these things, which are in the photo above, can make an informant COVID-19. Show the trend, the number of infected people to date in your location, and so on.


  • Mod

    A MySensor'ed temperature controller for my utility cabinet, which runs too hot due to all the electronics in there (cable modem, router, switch, etc.)
    In its current version it is able to control a 12V 120mm PWM fan, and reads the temperature from 3 DS18B20 temp sensors (inlet, 'ambient' and router).
    Later I might add a temperature controller to keep the ambient temperature stable at a a few degrees above inlet, by controlling the fan's dutycycle.

    As all sensors in my utility cabinet are powered from 5V USB, I used a step-up converter to generate the 12V required by the fan.

    v1.jpg

    After soldering everything together I wasn't happy with the orientation of the JST headers for the temp sensors, so a small PCB was added to mount them under 90 degrees:

    v2.jpg

    All data and control is routed to Node-red, stored in InfluxDB and graphed in Grafana:

    c7ff7fd0-44f4-4a33-9ec8-e7e03ce7aaf5-image.png

    You can see the temperature of the router ('USG') go down with increasing fan rotational speed (lower chart, 'rpm.mean').
    Temperature decrease is not as big as I hoped for, so I might need to install a fan with a bigger airflow.



  • My new gateway with leds for state and the only node I have: A wireless arcade button controller ea084163-e43a-4aad-ae0c-993085b04502-image.png


  • Mod

    @Danielo-Rodríguez you might already be aware of this, but all that metal close to the nrf24 antenna will probably block some signal.



  • Well, it not really a build I plugged in wires, and copied code. Found a random usb charger and put it all in my workspace to be.

    And I absolutely love this thing. Maximum of 3 hours work. I was having fun, so it could be more.

    I considered that there could and should be a display on this thing, but not for now. I made this, because I have never experimented with temperature sensors and I just received a few. Now I can just see what happens with the temperature in there.
    sensor is a AHT10 temperature and humidity.
    http://www.aosong.com/m/en/products-40.html
    I used this library: https://github.com/enjoyneering/AHT10
    I repurposed Hek's DHT code, and swapped the readings with the AHT's

    IMG_20200815_095309.jpg

    shed before
    IMG_20200531_192231_2.jpg

    workspace after but still filling it.
    IMG-20200812-WA0001.jpeg



  • Today I've finally swapped my outdoor relay node with something descent.
    IMG_6784.jpg
    This was my very first mysensors node that I've built when I was only starting to mess with arduino, probably around four years ago.

    IMG_6785.jpg
    IMG_6786.jpg
    This board uses cheap 5v power supply and an amplified version of NRF24 module from Ebyte. It supposed to be poured with silicone ore resin, but I am yet to find suitable box, the size of this board appeared to be bigger then most of such cases designed for compound pouring. But I'm planning on making next version, with non-isolated power supply, which will help to achieve smaller size.



  • My new project of a temperature and humidity sensor with an electronic ink display 1.02 Inch ( GDEW0102T4 ), very low power consumption, very small device.

    https://youtu.be/2zTEHTAr7lk

    IMG_20200909_111923.jpg



  • USB + ESP8266 adapter for W2812B LED strip.

    Well, this is actually a Tasmota + Openhab build, but could easily be MySensors.

    Also worth noting, this 5m 150 led strip draws too much current to reliably use with a USB wall adapter.

    62154743620__8CA02E53-F789-4B83-8D1D-C2E1D4F18423.jpeg

    62154729146__FDB896AA-6E42-4B25-93B1-6214813216EA.jpeg

    Messages Image(2477667489).png

    Messages Image(1253441685).png


  • Mod

    Very nice renderings.

    W2812B uses about 50mA at full brightness, so you'd need a power supply that can deliver 7,500mA if you run the entire strip at maximum.



  • @mfalkvidd Yeah, I realize I can only use a portion of the strip, or keep it very dim. I actually bought this with the hopes of flashing with Tuya Convert, but turns out they switched to non ESP modules. So, I figured I would make my own.

    energizer_EIS2-1001-RGB.jpg



  • A bed occupancy sensor. 4 50kg load cells, an HX711, and a Wemos D1 to make a wifi scale that rests on a bed slat under the boxspring.

    Given the placement and weight distribution it doesn't turn the bed into a huge bath scale, but definitely accurate enough to use the deltas to estimate if there is someone in the bed. I can also tell when our 12lb (5.5kg) dog is on the bed.

    I have rules in openhab to turn the overhead fan on and off. Also disables some TTS notifications if somebody is in bed.

    IMG_1154.jpg IMG_1155.jpg IMG_1156.jpg IMG_1157.jpg IMG_1158.jpg Screen Shot 2020-09-15 at 8.26.22 PM.png



  • thanks to assistance of some of the people here i now have up and running a front gate controller for my double front gates (Solar powered)

    now have a node that monitors the batteries, knows if the gate is open or closed and has a relay for activating the gate



  • Compact, simple NRF52 motion sensor
    Ebyte E104-BT5032A NRF52832 module
    MH-SR602 Motion Sensor
    LiFePO4 AA Battery

    IMG_1164.jpg IMG_1167.jpg IMG_1166.jpg IMG_1165.jpg


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