We are mostly using fake nRF24L01+'s, but worse fakes are emerging.
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Ran the nRF24 GettingStarted and got this from two different nRF24's
Standard nRF24L01+
STATUS = 0x0e RX_DR=0 TX_DS=0 MAX_RT=0 RX_P_NO=7 TX_FULL=0
RX_ADDR_P0-1 = 0xa8a8e1fc62 0xf0f0f0f0d2
RX_ADDR_P2-5 = 0xff 0xc4 0xc5 0xc6
TX_ADDR = 0xa8a8e1fc00
RX_PW_P0-6 = 0x20 0x20 0x20 0x00 0x00 0x00
EN_AA = 0x3b
EN_RXADDR = 0x07
RF_CH = 0x4c
RF_SETUP = 0x07
CONFIG = 0x0f
DYNPD/FEATURE = 0x00 0x06
Data Rate = 1MBPS
Model = nRF24L01+
CRC Length = 16 bits
PA Power = PA_HIGHnRF24L01+ with Antenna
STATUS = 0x0e RX_DR=0 TX_DS=0 MAX_RT=0 RX_P_NO=7 TX_FULL=0
RX_ADDR_P0-1 = 0xe7e7e7e7e7 0xf0f0f0f0d2
RX_ADDR_P2-5 = 0xc3 0xc4 0xc5 0xc6
TX_ADDR = 0xe7e7e7e7e7
RX_PW_P0-6 = 0x00 0x20 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00
EN_AA = 0x3f
EN_RXADDR = 0x03
RF_CH = 0x4c
RF_SETUP = 0x07
CONFIG = 0x0f
DYNPD/FEATURE = 0x00 0x00
Data Rate = 1MBPS
Model = nRF24L01+
CRC Length = 16 bits
PA Power = PA_HIGHThe one with antenna's adresse looks kind of "strange", but don't know if we can read anything out of this ????
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Probably we could open a permanent thread where we can post our experiences with different aliexpress shops regarding nrf24l01+?
Is there a chance to write a short arduino program to check the identity of the nrf chip used? Then we could check the ones we receive and put this experience also in the above mentioned thread?
@phil83 said:
Probably we could open a permanent thread where we can post our experiences with different aliexpress shops regarding nrf24l01+?
I'd be interested to see a list of "good" sellers from aliexpress and not just for the radios. It seems like the store links just point to the cheapest one with free shipping some times. I haven't bought enough stuff to get burnt (7 orders of which 2 have come in and the rest should be in a week or 2) but it is one of the things that keeps me wary.
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I just used the GettingStarted and got the following reply from a nrf24l01+ with antenna:
RF24/examples/GettingStarted/
ROLE: Pong back
*** PRESS 'T' to begin transmitting to the other node
STATUS = 0x0e RX_DR=0 TX_DS=0 MAX_RT=0 RX_P_NO=7 TX_FULL=0
RX_ADDR_P0-1 x00 = 0xe7e7e7e7e7 0xf0f0f0f0d2
RX_ADDR_P2-5 x00 = 0xc3 0xc4 0xc5 0xc6
TX_ADDR = 0xe7e7e7e7e7
RX_PW_P0-6 x00 = 0x00 0x20 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00
EN_AA = 0x3f
EN_RXADDR x00 = 0x03
RF_CH = 0x4c
RF_SETUP x00 = 0x07
CONFIG = 0x0f
DYNPD/FEATURE x00 = 0x00 0x00
Data Rate = 1MBPS
Model = nRF24L01+
CRC Length = 16 bits
PA Power = PA_HIGHSo it's the same like @Magiske.
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This is the first time I'm putting anything here. I also have been developing a C based library for one of the NRF24L01 (no plus) devices.. I used a Stellaris Launchpad to interface with the chip. Eventhough most of the functionality work correctly I saw the CD (Carrier Detect) is not functioning properly. Once it is high it is always high. To make it low I had to flush the RX buffer. It is really strange. I bought my sensors from e-Bay. So they must be clones :D. Can someone try this CD thing and see whether it is working properly?
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Has anyone here found a good vendor for modules that use genuine Nordic NRF24L01+ chips?
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You could buy your modules from Itead. They have promised us to only source genuine Nordic chips. They are a little higher in price/shipping but you could also take the opportunity to buy a MySensors Micro board to support the project :)
The ebay/aliexpress shops is a bit of a chance-taking as they might switch sourcing partner at any time.
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You could buy your modules from Itead. They have promised us to only source genuine Nordic chips. They are a little higher in price/shipping but you could also take the opportunity to buy a MySensors Micro board to support the project :)
The ebay/aliexpress shops is a bit of a chance-taking as they might switch sourcing partner at any time.
@hek said:
You could buy your modules from Itead. They have promised us to only source genuine Nordic chips. They are a little higher in price/shipping but you could also take the opportunity to buy a MySensors Micro board to support the project :)
The ebay/aliexpress shops is a bit of a chance-taking as they might switch sourcing partner at any time.
Fair enough. I just now ordered some allegedly Itead NRF24L01+ modules from an Itead distributor, but I suppose there's a risk the distributor might get greedy and ship me something else. On a different thread, someone mentioned that the Itead modules each come in their own box. Would someone please post a photo of the individualized packaging for the Itead modles? If it's distinctive, it might serve as a kind of "certificate of authenticity." I realize that could be faked also, but it would make it a little harder for someone to fake, and so it's better than nothing.
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Would the following might work as a way to separate good modules from bad modules, therefore also separate out the fakes?
- Set up a looping ping-pong link between two "known good" modules and measure the % packet losses.
- Unplug a reference module and then plug a test modules into the same setup. If the packet loss percentage is significantly worse, then the test module is either bad or a fake.
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@hek said:
You could buy your modules from Itead. They have promised us to only source genuine Nordic chips. They are a little higher in price/shipping but you could also take the opportunity to buy a MySensors Micro board to support the project :)
The ebay/aliexpress shops is a bit of a chance-taking as they might switch sourcing partner at any time.
Fair enough. I just now ordered some allegedly Itead NRF24L01+ modules from an Itead distributor, but I suppose there's a risk the distributor might get greedy and ship me something else. On a different thread, someone mentioned that the Itead modules each come in their own box. Would someone please post a photo of the individualized packaging for the Itead modles? If it's distinctive, it might serve as a kind of "certificate of authenticity." I realize that could be faked also, but it would make it a little harder for someone to fake, and so it's better than nothing.
@NeverDie said:
Fair enough. I just now ordered some allegedly Itead NRF24L01+ modules from an Itead distributor, but I suppose there's a risk the distributor might get greedy and ship me something else. On a different thread, someone mentioned that the Itead modules each come in their own box. Would someone please post a photo of the individualized packaging for the Itead modles? If it's distinctive, it might serve as a kind of "certificate of authenticity." I realize that could be faked also, but it would make it a little harder for someone to fake, and so it's better than nothing.
Here's an image:
http://imall.itead.cc/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1800x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/i/m/im120606002_2.jpgCheers
Al -
@NeverDie said:
Fair enough. I just now ordered some allegedly Itead NRF24L01+ modules from an Itead distributor, but I suppose there's a risk the distributor might get greedy and ship me something else. On a different thread, someone mentioned that the Itead modules each come in their own box. Would someone please post a photo of the individualized packaging for the Itead modles? If it's distinctive, it might serve as a kind of "certificate of authenticity." I realize that could be faked also, but it would make it a little harder for someone to fake, and so it's better than nothing.
Here's an image:
http://imall.itead.cc/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1800x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/i/m/im120606002_2.jpgCheers
Al@Sparkman said:
@NeverDie said:
Fair enough. I just now ordered some allegedly Itead NRF24L01+ modules from an Itead distributor, but I suppose there's a risk the distributor might get greedy and ship me something else. On a different thread, someone mentioned that the Itead modules each come in their own box. Would someone please post a photo of the individualized packaging for the Itead modles? If it's distinctive, it might serve as a kind of "certificate of authenticity." I realize that could be faked also, but it would make it a little harder for someone to fake, and so it's better than nothing.
Here's an image:
http://imall.itead.cc/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1800x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/i/m/im120606002_2.jpgCheers
AlThanks! Pooling our information should reveal who the good vendors are.
After I receive the modules I ordered today, I'll post which vendor I purchased them from, the price, and whether or not I think they're real (i.e. what tests I ran to make that determination). I would encourage others to do the same.
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Judging from the current banter on this other thread, it sounds as though if a module is powered directly from a fully charged battery pack (so that there's no voltage ripple) but it has fewer lost packets after installing a 10uF capacitor, then it's probably a fake.
I'm guessing you could make a test rig by soldering a capacitor across the Vcc and Ground legs of one of these:

Then just plug the module into it, and then it into the usual arduino socket that you'd ordinarily plug the module into.Would that work?
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Explaining to a electronic newbie, how do I test them?
All i can do now is prette much see if they work or not within my house.I would be good if someone could create a little how-to so all can participate in these test.
Regards
Andreas -
Explaining to a electronic newbie, how do I test them?
All i can do now is prette much see if they work or not within my house.I would be good if someone could create a little how-to so all can participate in these test.
Regards
Andreas@sundberg84 said:
Explaining to a electronic newbie, how do I test them?
All i can do now is prette much see if they work or not within my house.I would be good if someone could create a little how-to so all can participate in these test.
Regards
AndreasSo far, I've mainly compared packet loss rates (as well as packet roundtrip times) for different types of modules. I think both are important, but if I had to pick just one or the other, I would pick packet loss rates.
I'm defining packet loss rate as: (# lost packets) divided by (total packets sent)
Anyone have ideas/opinions/thoughts/suggestions/recommendations as to whether there are better discriminating metrics to measure?
In terms of test setup, it would be ideal if the two arduinos running the test were screwed down to their test locations so that they couldn't be budged, so that almost the only thing that can change when testing different NRF modules is which NRF module is plugged into it. That way the antenna orientation will hopefully be effectively the same, or at least as close to that as we can hope to get without using an anachoic chamber--something which probably no one here would have access to.
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I'm trying to get gc_supermarket to refund me or send working ones.. the nrf's I got from them, marked "GOOD QUALITY" has a range of a few meters in open space. Cap adds another meter or so.
I've ordered nrf's from itead too, hopefully good ones.@Stric said:
I'm trying to get gc_supermarket to refund me or send working ones.. the nrf's I got from them, marked "GOOD QUALITY" has a range of a few meters in open space. Cap adds another meter or so.
That sounds awful. Have you tried other channels and locations and power supplies to rule out heavy interference or noise? If none of that makes any difference, would you please post a photo? Perhaps someone will notice something distinctively different that we can then all use to hopefully avoid a similar disappointment.
Also, I suggest ordering a minimum of 3 modules (from whomever you order), rather than only two, just to rule out the chance possibility that a botched module is to blame. This is what I did on my most recent order. It wouldn't rule out the possibility of getting 2 botched modules in the same order, but the odds of that should be very small if only random luck is involved.
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I also ordered those "good quality" from gc_supermarket. I havent made any test yet but on the chip it says NRF M, 24L01+ 1429AF
On my other radios it says 1242AF. -
It's a manufacturing date stamp. 29th week of 2014
Don't know what AF stands for. Anyone know?
