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  3. Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

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  • rvendrameR rvendrame

    Just a heads up. Yesterday I blew up this module, which I bought some time ago (before we invest into the HLK analysis).

    I really don't know what happened, it simply exploded without any further notice (and very near my face, like 30cm or so). I was calibrating the power sensor. Dummy I was, trying to find why it was measuring 10W while the PSU is rated 3W...

    The sensor is based on a current transformer TA12-100 , measuring itself on ACMains.

    Perhaps some old-school guy can tell me if I violated some some basic rule? I want to believe that some scrap wire or metal has shortened some track, but how to prove it?

    Well after that, I measured the arduino + radio + measurement circuit and it never crossed 30mA... I also replaced the damaged PSU (by one identical), and now the power sensor measures 4W (instead the previous 10W), and despite some noising capacitor, no heat or instability after 12 hours or so on.

    Pictures of the occurrence:
    2015-08-07 10.49.17.jpg
    2015-08-07 10.50.28.jpg

    Botton one is the damaged one:
    2015-08-07 10.45.31.jpg
    2015-08-07 10.47.28.jpg

    RJ_MakeR Offline
    RJ_MakeR Offline
    RJ_Make
    Hero Member
    wrote on last edited by
    #182

    @rvendrame Whatever happened (looks like something went to ground; were you probing with a scope?), that MB6S was the source, because that rectifier is blow out.

    I don't think you will be able to buff that one out... :stuck_out_tongue:

    RJ_Make

    rvendrameR 1 Reply Last reply
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    • rvendrameR Offline
      rvendrameR Offline
      rvendrame
      Hero Member
      wrote on last edited by
      #183

      @ServiceXp , no

      Home Assistant / Vera Plus UI7
      ESP8266 GW + mySensors 2.3.2
      Alexa / Google Home

      1 Reply Last reply
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      • RJ_MakeR RJ_Make

        @rvendrame Whatever happened (looks like something went to ground; were you probing with a scope?), that MB6S was the source, because that rectifier is blow out.

        I don't think you will be able to buff that one out... :stuck_out_tongue:

        rvendrameR Offline
        rvendrameR Offline
        rvendrame
        Hero Member
        wrote on last edited by
        #184

        @ServiceXp , no oscilloscope. I was Cheking why the power sensor was measuring 10w instead 3w or less.

        The CT sensor was around the mains phase wire, and the psu was powering the sensor. I didn't change anything , just multimeter readings on DC side. Didn't touch the ac mains except to insert the current transformer around it.

        I also connected a light bulb on same wire, in order to generate some load. The sensor was measuring the bulb correctly, however when the bulb was disconnected it read 10w, away too much for only an arduino.

        Home Assistant / Vera Plus UI7
        ESP8266 GW + mySensors 2.3.2
        Alexa / Google Home

        YveauxY RJ_MakeR 2 Replies Last reply
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        • rvendrameR rvendrame

          @ServiceXp , no oscilloscope. I was Cheking why the power sensor was measuring 10w instead 3w or less.

          The CT sensor was around the mains phase wire, and the psu was powering the sensor. I didn't change anything , just multimeter readings on DC side. Didn't touch the ac mains except to insert the current transformer around it.

          I also connected a light bulb on same wire, in order to generate some load. The sensor was measuring the bulb correctly, however when the bulb was disconnected it read 10w, away too much for only an arduino.

          YveauxY Offline
          YveauxY Offline
          Yveaux
          Mod
          wrote on last edited by
          #185

          @rvendrame I'm not sure if I really get your setup, but ground loops can be a very nifty cause of all kinds of stuff getting 'too hot' :grimacing:

          Could this be the cause of the problem?

          That 0 ohms resistor also looks like it been fried. What's its use on the board?

          http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

          1 Reply Last reply
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          • rvendrameR rvendrame

            @ServiceXp , no oscilloscope. I was Cheking why the power sensor was measuring 10w instead 3w or less.

            The CT sensor was around the mains phase wire, and the psu was powering the sensor. I didn't change anything , just multimeter readings on DC side. Didn't touch the ac mains except to insert the current transformer around it.

            I also connected a light bulb on same wire, in order to generate some load. The sensor was measuring the bulb correctly, however when the bulb was disconnected it read 10w, away too much for only an arduino.

            RJ_MakeR Offline
            RJ_MakeR Offline
            RJ_Make
            Hero Member
            wrote on last edited by RJ_Make
            #186

            @rvendrame Hard to say then, but I'd bet an ice cream sandwich that something went to ground/neutral. It's the high voltage side that is blown out of that rectifier.. You may never know what the cause was.

            RJ_Make

            1 Reply Last reply
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            • petewillP petewill

              Does anyone know of any 120V AC to 5V DC transformers that are safe to put in a wall electrical box? I have been using old cell phone chargers for most of my projects but I was recently pondering putting something right in the wall. Since shipping can take so long I thought I'd ask now before I even start on the project.

              I did some searching and couldn't find anything so I thought I'd ask the experts here.

              Thanks in advance!

              EDIT 9/7/2016
              Watch out for Fakes! Read more here: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers/355
              If in doubt you can get them directly from the vendor here: http://www.hlktech.net/product.php?CateId=10

              EDIT 12/28/2015
              After MUCH discussion on this here are the findings of this thread (as of now):

              Here is the diagram for how things should be wired:
              HLK-PM01-Wiring.jpg

              These are the parts I ordered. I haven't tested any of these parts yet as this project has been put on the back burner for now :(. I am in the USA so this is spec'd for 120 VAC. If you're using 240 you will need to change the size of the Varistor but everything else should be fine for 240.

              Also, see these posts for more discussion/ideas if interested:
              http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1540/110v-230v-ac-to-mysensors-pcb-board
              http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2488/in-wall-pcb

              Varistor for 120VAC - http://www.ebay.com/itm/321024816822?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

              73°C Thermal Fuse - http://www.ebay.com/itm/221560426284?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=520415979885&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

              250V 300mA Slow Blow Fuse - http://www.ebay.com/itm/111433875797?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=410420838583&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

              HLK-PM01 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/351418782712?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

              Pete

              J Offline
              J Offline
              jemish
              wrote on last edited by
              #187

              @petewill when you start home automation at that time please share photos wit me.
              how to setup the no. of relay, power supply, arduino, radio etc in WALL box.

              petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
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              • J jemish

                @petewill when you start home automation at that time please share photos wit me.
                how to setup the no. of relay, power supply, arduino, radio etc in WALL box.

                petewillP Offline
                petewillP Offline
                petewill
                Admin
                wrote on last edited by
                #188

                @jemish yes, that's the plan. Once all the geniuses figure out how to do it I plan on making a how to video :)

                My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • B Offline
                  B Offline
                  Bertb
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #189

                  Is there any news from the test guy?

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • J Offline
                    J Offline
                    jemish
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #190

                    yes , is there any news

                    1 Reply Last reply
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                    • Moshe LivneM Offline
                      Moshe LivneM Offline
                      Moshe Livne
                      Hero Member
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #191

                      @Didi, did you end up doing horrible things to these? You said something about flashbox?

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • Z Offline
                        Z Offline
                        Zeph
                        Hero Member
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #192

                        If the fellow behind http://lygte-info.dk/info/usbPowerSupplyTestHow UK.html posts good results on his website, the supply chain should prepare for a flood of orders! I've seen those tests widely referenced, and I think a lot of people are looking for something safer but still cheap.

                        Don't be surprised if a positive review made it to HackaDay and the like as well.

                        (Get your ali orders in now, beat the rush - if you think it will come out well)

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • Talat KeleşT Offline
                          Talat KeleşT Offline
                          Talat Keleş
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #193

                          I'm also looking forward about test results. I've seen the module however never totally trusted; until I found this topic. The price and size are perfect for under-socket installation. If further results come out good, I'm eager to see in-wall projects.

                          1 Reply Last reply
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                          • C Offline
                            C Offline
                            ceech
                            Hardware Contributor
                            wrote on last edited by ceech
                            #194

                            This one is not "safe", but it is an In-Wall AC to DC converter. Transformerless. With a 3A Solid state relay:

                            2015-08-21T12-11-1.jpg

                            2015-08.jpg

                            The converter output is 3.3V at 100mA and the solid state relay is a Triac.

                            F schroecaS 2 Replies Last reply
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                            • B Offline
                              B Offline
                              Bertb
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #195

                              Looks very nice, but you cannot use it for sensors or actuators that can be touched by hand and do not comply with the insulation standards, since parts of it will be connected to mains.

                              C 1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • B Bertb

                                Looks very nice, but you cannot use it for sensors or actuators that can be touched by hand and do not comply with the insulation standards, since parts of it will be connected to mains.

                                C Offline
                                C Offline
                                ceech
                                Hardware Contributor
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #196

                                @Bertb Yes, it shouldn't be touched. It can be used with wall-mounted mains switches, though. Placed behind it.

                                DrJeffD 1 Reply Last reply
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                                • TD22057T Offline
                                  TD22057T Offline
                                  TD22057
                                  Hardware Contributor
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #197

                                  Did anyone look at the SwitchMote PSU over at LowerPowerLab? More info here. The kit is fairly expensive ($30) but I wonder how much it would be to source the components yourself since someone else has done all the design work.

                                  YveauxY 1 Reply Last reply
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                                  • TD22057T TD22057

                                    Did anyone look at the SwitchMote PSU over at LowerPowerLab? More info here. The kit is fairly expensive ($30) but I wonder how much it would be to source the components yourself since someone else has done all the design work.

                                    YveauxY Offline
                                    YveauxY Offline
                                    Yveaux
                                    Mod
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #198

                                    @TD22057 I would say the cost of this PSU is dominated by the Recom converter onboard. Farnell charges E14,58 for single pieces (http://nl.farnell.com/recom-power/rac02-05sc/ac-dc-converter-2w-5v-reg/dp/1903060?searchRef=SearchLookAhead).
                                    Rest of the components will be a few Euro's, and ofcourse the PCB (which contains a number of milled slots for isolation).
                                    All together you will get fairly close to $30 when building it yourself.

                                    http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

                                    1 Reply Last reply
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                                    • C ceech

                                      @Bertb Yes, it shouldn't be touched. It can be used with wall-mounted mains switches, though. Placed behind it.

                                      DrJeffD Offline
                                      DrJeffD Offline
                                      DrJeff
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #199

                                      @ceech said:

                                      Yes, it shouldn't be touched

                                      Nice! just label board !LIVE!

                                      Not safe due to no fuse? Do share, making your own boards with solder mask?

                                      YveauxY 1 Reply Last reply
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                                      • DrJeffD DrJeff

                                        @ceech said:

                                        Yes, it shouldn't be touched

                                        Nice! just label board !LIVE!

                                        Not safe due to no fuse? Do share, making your own boards with solder mask?

                                        YveauxY Offline
                                        YveauxY Offline
                                        Yveaux
                                        Mod
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #200

                                        @DrJeff the board is not isolated from mains by e.g a transformer. This means traces carry live mains!

                                        http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

                                        1 Reply Last reply
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                                        • DrJeffD Offline
                                          DrJeffD Offline
                                          DrJeff
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #201

                                          So basically it is like any other consumer Zwave switch or X10 just box it up (3D printer on stand by) with 2 micro buttons with a rocker face and I want 10. :) But sorry I digressed from the OP in my excitement.

                                          C 1 Reply Last reply
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