My Slim 2AA Battery Node

GertSanders

@meddie
The pull up 1MOhm resistor should go from Vcc - resistor - D2
The switch should be connected to D2 and Gnd
D2 needs to be defined as INPUT, no need to add the statement with PULLUP.
Post your sketch so we can have a look.

meddie

/**
 * Created by Henrik Ekblad <henrik.ekblad@mysensors.org>
 * Copyright (C) 2013-2015 Sensnology AB
 * Full contributor list: https://github.com/mysensors/Arduino/graphs/contributors
 *
 * Documentation: http://www.mysensors.org
 * Support Forum: http://forum.mysensors.org
 *
 * This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or
 * modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License
 * version 2 as published by the Free Software Foundation.
 *
 *******************************
 *
 * DESCRIPTION
 *
 * Interrupt driven binary switch example with dual interrupts
 * Author: Patrick 'Anticimex' Fallberg
 * Connect one button or door/window reed switch between 
 * digitial I/O pin 3 (BUTTON_PIN below) and GND and the other
 * one in similar fashion on digital I/O pin 2.
 * This example is designed to fit Arduino Nano/Pro Mini
 * 
 */


#include <MySensor.h>
#include <SPI.h>

#define SKETCH_NAME "Binary Sensor"
#define SKETCH_MAJOR_VER "1"
#define SKETCH_MINOR_VER "0"

#define PRIMARY_CHILD_ID 3
#define SECONDARY_CHILD_ID 4

#define PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN 2   // Arduino Digital I/O pin for button/reed switch
#define SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN 3 // Arduino Digital I/O pin for button/reed switch

#if (PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN < 2 || PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN > 3)
#error PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN must be either 2 or 3 for interrupts to work
#endif
#if (SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN < 2 || SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN > 3)
#error SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN must be either 2 or 3 for interrupts to work
#endif
#if (PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN == SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN)
#error PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN and BUTTON_PIN2 cannot be the same
#endif
#if (PRIMARY_CHILD_ID == SECONDARY_CHILD_ID)
#error PRIMARY_CHILD_ID and SECONDARY_CHILD_ID cannot be the same
#endif
 
MySensor sensor_node;

// Change to V_LIGHT if you use S_LIGHT in presentation below
MyMessage msg(PRIMARY_CHILD_ID, V_TRIPPED);
MyMessage msg2(SECONDARY_CHILD_ID, V_TRIPPED);

void setup()  
{  
  sensor_node.begin();

  // Setup the buttons
  pinMode(PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN, INPUT);
  pinMode(SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN, INPUT);

  // Activate internal pull-ups
  digitalWrite(PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN, HIGH);
  
  // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller
  sensor_node.sendSketchInfo(SKETCH_NAME, SKETCH_MAJOR_VER"."SKETCH_MINOR_VER);

  // Register binary input sensor to sensor_node (they will be created as child devices)
  // You can use S_DOOR, S_MOTION or S_LIGHT here depending on your usage. 
  // If S_LIGHT is used, remember to update variable type you send in. See "msg" above.
  sensor_node.present(PRIMARY_CHILD_ID, S_DOOR);  
  sensor_node.present(SECONDARY_CHILD_ID, S_DOOR);  
}

// Loop will iterate on changes on the BUTTON_PINs
void loop() 
{
  uint8_t value;
  static uint8_t sentValue=2;
  static uint8_t sentValue2=2;

  // Short delay to allow buttons to properly settle
  sensor_node.sleep(5);
  
  value = digitalRead(PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN);
  
  if (value != sentValue) {
     // Value has changed from last transmission, send the updated value
     sensor_node.send(msg.set(value==HIGH ? 1 : 0));
     sentValue = value;
  }

  value = digitalRead(SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN);
  
  if (value != sentValue2) {
     // Value has changed from last transmission, send the updated value
     sensor_node.send(msg2.set(value==HIGH ? 1 : 0));
     sentValue2 = value;
  }

  // Sleep until something happens with the sensor
  sensor_node.sleep(PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN-2, CHANGE, SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN-2, CHANGE, 0);
} ```

GertSanders

@meddie said:

// Activate internal pull-ups
digitalWrite(PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN, HIGH);
digitalWrite(SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN, HIGH);

If you use the external pull up, you need to comment out these two lines like so:

// Activate internal pull-ups
// digitalWrite(PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN, HIGH);
// digitalWrite(SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN, HIGH);

No need for an internal pullup if you use an external pull up.
In the above I'm assuming you have an external pullup resistor for each digital pin, one for D2 and one for D3.

ahmedadelhosni

@m26872 said:

@ahmedadelhosni You know that the nRF pins are not centered? That means if you rotate it like this it will no longer be straight above the "slim node motherboard".
What height do you expect it to be?

I understood now what you meant by "not centered". Thanks for notifying me.
I'll take care of that.

betonishard

@meddie are you also using the optiboot 9600 NOBOD in boards.txt the same as in the first post (fuse settings I mean)? And are you using avrdude arduino ide for mac?

I tried your solution but i get the same results.. Yikes!

If you use the same setup, can you post your boards.txt? Did you also make changes to the hex file?

Thanks in advance.

betonishard

@m26872 Thanks for your answer... The problem is I read a lot about it (which makes me kinda stupid that I still haven't achieved this).

I tried to find atmel studio (I believe you are referring to atmel studio?) I couldn't find a proper mac version. I checked on the fuse calculator and still no success. Maybe some one could give me the correct fuse settings for AVR or a proper mac download link for atmel studio.

OI know I am asking a lot, but it would help me a lot. Thanks.!!

m26872

@betonishard Yes, of course ask if you have problem. But I suggest you also make a new separate thread in General-, Hw- or Troubleshooting section about your issues.
Maybe it's a good idea to ask in arduino forum as well.

ahmedadelhosni

Hello @m26872

I succeeded now to burn the bootloader which you used (1Mhz). I just don't understand a phrase which you mentioned above.

According to this you should use minimal startup time to reduce power in every 8s sleep cycle, but for the moment I don't care and stick to the default 65ms.

Can you explain what is this ? and whether it is affecting badly on something or not ?

Thanks..

meddie

its the fuse, which defines the rising time. the oscillator needs some time to come to the correct frequency. If you dont wait this time its possble that your sketch dont work correctly. But the microcontroller is the 65 ms longer not in sleep mode and need more battery power. but works more stable.

meddie

YEAH, YEAH YEAH! Thank you all for the help a big thanks to GertSanders. Now it seems to work perfectly. The current draw is now 4.6µa. Now i have to transfer from bredboard to pcb.
Thank you very much!!!!!!

meddie

Here

@betonishard said:

@meddie are you also using the optiboot 9600 NOBOD in boards.txt the same as in the first post (fuse settings I mean)? And are you using avrdude arduino ide for mac?

Hi no i use the ide for Windows i dont have a mac.

Here is the hex File

:107E0000112484B714BE81FFE6D085E08093810001
:107E100082E08093C00088E18093C10086E0809377
:107E2000C20089E18093C4008EE0BFD0259A86E02D
:107E300023EC3FEF91E0309385002093840096BBC4
:107E4000B09BFECF1D9AA8958150A9F7EE24FF2480
:107E5000AA24A394B5E0CB2EA1E1BA2EF3E0DF2E45
:107E600098D0813461F495D0082FA5D0023829F13B
:107E7000013811F485E001C083E083D07FC08234F3
:107E800011F484E103C0853419F485E09CD076C0F8
:107E9000853579F47ED0E82EFF247BD0082F10E0C2
:107EA000102F00270E291F29000F111F84D07801E1
:107EB00065C0863521F484E086D080E0DECF84364C
:107EC00009F040C066D065D0082F63D080E0E81686
:107ED00080E7F80618F4F701D7BEE895C0E0D1E0D6
:107EE00058D089930C17E1F7F0E0EF16F0E7FF06A2
:107EF00018F0F701D7BEE8955ED007B600FCFDCFBD
:107F0000A701A0E0B1E02C9130E011968C9111977F
:107F100090E0982F8827822B932B1296FA010C0160
:107F2000A7BEE89511244E5F5F4FF1E0A038BF0770
:107F300051F7F701C7BEE89507B600FCFDCFB7BE05
:107F4000E8951CC0843761F424D023D0082F21D0B9
:107F500032D0F70185917F0114D00150D1F70EC0C6
:107F6000853739F428D08EE10CD085E90AD08FE02E
:107F700084CF813511F488E018D01DD080E101D084
:107F80006FCF982F8091C00085FFFCCF9093C600E3
:107F900008958091C00087FFFCCF8091C00084FDD0
:107FA00001C0A8958091C6000895E0E6F0E098E150
:107FB000908380830895EDDF803219F088E0F5DF4B
:107FC000FFCF84E1DECF1F93182FE3DF1150E9F7D5
:107FD000F2DF1F910895282E80E0E7DFEE27FF27CC
:027FE000099402
:027FFE0000057C
:0400000300007E007B
:00000001FF

Just create a new txt file put this code in there and rename the file to atmega328_1b.hex

this is my boards.txt:

##############################################################

atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.name=ATmega328 on a breadboard 1MHz internal clock, fast start, 1.8V BOD, 4800baud upload

atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.upload.protocol=arduino
atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.upload.maximum_size=32256
atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.upload.speed=4800

atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.bootloader.low_fuses=0x42
atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.bootloader.high_fuses=0xDE
atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x07

atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.bootloader.file=atmega/atmega328_1b.hex
atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.bootloader.unlock_bits=0x3F
atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.bootloader.lock_bits=0x2F

atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.build.mcu=atmega328p
atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.build.f_cpu=1000000L
atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.build.core=arduino:arduino
atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.build.variant=arduino:standard


atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.bootloader.tool=arduino:avrdude
atmega328_1mhz_4800baud.upload.tool=arduino:avrdude

this worked for me!

m26872

@ahmedadelhosni I've never verified it by measuring, but I understood like @meddie about Gammons writing.
To get rid of those 65ms startup time you should use fuses 42-DE-FF (Lo-Hi-Ext) instead of 62-DE-FF.

If anyone could verify and measure current between sleep cycles and share some results, it would be great.

betonishard

@meddie and @all Tonight I think I have fixed my issue however how I do not understand so maybe someone can explain, or maybe I think I have fixed it and it is not fixed at all.

On the arudino website it states that when you burn your bootloader you have to connect pin 13,12,11 and pin 10 to reset (and ofcourse 5v and ground). AFter burning the bootloader you should replace it with the rx and tx cable and disconnect 13,12,11 and connect reset to reset. Each time I did this I got the error of Yikes! However tonight by accident I forgot to rewire the pins to rx and tx and press “Upload using programmer” all of a sudden it stated “done uploading”.

I tested this with blink sketch so I attached a led to pin13 and ground. The led started to blink. I was happy however did not understand…. or is this just a n00b mistake

ahmedadelhosni

@meddie said:

@betonishard said:

Hello all,

I have been struggling with this for a couple of weeks now and I just can seem to figure out a good way to upload sketches to the arduio328p-pu. First of all I use this setup;

I use arduino for mac 1.6.5
I use a breadboard with a crystal, two capacitors and a resistor between reset and 5v.
An arduino to burn bootloader (with the chip inserted and sketch arduinoISP uploaded).
I use the same hex files as you guys with 1a. I used the optiboot 9600 BOD, just the 9600 and the 4800. Uploading the bootloader is no problem at all. Arduino ide burns the bootloader without any problems. However when I try to upload the sketches I get different errors. The “Yikes” version in which it states that my device signature is not ok and programmer not responding. I use upload using programmer.

So, I tried to upload the arduino uno version to rule out all miscabling. So what I did was upload the arduino uno bootloader, tried to upload the blink sketch afterwards and it works. So my cables are ok….

I thought to repeat the exact same process with the boot version above. However no succes, I keep getting stuck at uploading sketches. Is it just not possible?

I read about setting the fuse options and I read that when you define these in the boards.txt, they will be set as the fuseparameters. When I check the boards txt above i see that fuse settings are: L0x62,H0xde,E0x07, however when I open the png file (first post, fuse settings) it states L0x62,H0xDE,E0xFF. Furthermore the lockbits are at 0xCF, compared to the boards.txt 0x2F. What is true and how should I set these. I don’t see a possibility in arduino ide (I use another arduino to upload, so I don’t have a tiny or USBASP.

Help would be much appreciated here because I have like 30 boards sitting catching dust.

Hi, i had the same problem, but then i tried the 1b hex and since i burned this it works for me.

@meddie @betonishard I guess I know the solution. Yesterday I begun creating my nodes with the same setup and faced the same issue. When You upload your sketch, choose your board, and the important thing which will solve the "Yikes" error, is to choose "Arduino as ISP" not "ArduioISP". You will find it under Tools > Programmer.

Another thing. If you are chip is the one which comes with the arduino UNO, then you have to add a crystal at the first time when you change the bootloader. According to what I read yesterday (and this solved an issue also which I faced) that the chip is already configured to use external crytsal. Thus (for the first time only), I tried adding a 20 Mhz, and 10Mhz as I didn't have 16Mhz, and surprisingly both configurations worked :)

let me know please if that helps.

ahmedadelhosni

@meddie THanks for the answer.

Can you please also explain your final result to reach 4uA. I have also the same problem and current is 90uA and sometimes drops to 20uA, then rises again. Thanks.

Edit: I figured out that I was using the 3.3v from arduino UNO. CHanged to two 1.5 batteries. THe current drops to 1.4uA when contact is open but sometimes it is also 15 uA. And when contact is closed it is 60 uA, and sometimes drops. Don't know why it is not stable.

Edit 26.1.2016: I managed to reach 1.4uA with door opened, and 15uA when closed. I guess the problem was with the wiring. DOn't really know but I used a battery holder instead. I will try to rechange the resistor value to 1Mohm and reupdate.

Edit 27.1.2016: ok I created another node and connected the contact sensor in series with the 1Mohm and the output is the voltage divider. now it is 1.4uA when open and 4.6uA when closed.

Thanks

Pierre P

@m26872 said:

Board releases:

Version 2.0 (black) [order] Now designed in KiCad. Hopefully the "final" release.

Well, can I ask an update ? It's about the labels, couldn't we have them on the two faces ? It's always good to know where are Vcc and Gnd at first eye I think.
After all, the atmega and nrf are the only components that can't move to the other side. But even there, knowing the digital and analog pin should be useful !

Cliff Karlsson

My PCBs have just arrived and I was going to build a couple of sensors but can´t figure out the first part of how to burn the bootloaders.

For starters can I just use one of the PCBs and solder the atmega socket and a 6 pin header near the nrlf-radio headers? And use this with a Atmega-programmer ?or do I need to solder any more components?

I tried with both a usbasp and a USBtinyISP but could not get any new device to show up in the arduino IDE. But I don´t know if it is a software issue with win10 or if it is hardware related.

Pierre P

I've made it with that link: http://www.gammon.com.au/breadboard with no cristal.

m26872

@Cliff-Karlsson Apart from the 2x3pin AVRISP you also need to supply power (battery?) Maybe easiest by the 1x6pin FTDI Vcc and Gnd pins. No other components should be needed.

m26872

@Pierre-P said:

@m26872 said:

Board releases:

Version 2.0 (black) [order] Now designed in KiCad. Hopefully the "final" release.

Well, can I ask an update ? It's about the labels, couldn't we have them on the two faces ? It's always good to know where are Vcc and Gnd at first eye I think.
After all, the atmega and nrf are the only components that can't move to the other side. But even there, knowing the digital and analog pin should be useful !

I think I'll collect "improvements" in a list. I agree that some labels could be added, but I don't think it's enough for a new board release.
Also the boardhouse credit collection (which becomes MySensors donations) will be scattered and smaller if there's many versions and branches.

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