Multimeter recommendation?

[mfalkvidd]

Inspired by the workshop and tools threads, I've finally decided to buy myself a second multimeter. The one I have is a Caltek CM1100 which works fine, but it has a maximum resolution of 0.1mA when measuring DC current.

I have looked at this review: http://www.robotroom.com/Multimeter-Reviews-5.html
From what I read there, this looks like a good match for me: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Multimeter-Auto-Range-AC-DC-V-A-Sound-Light-Alarm-4H2G-/281789020156

I also looked at http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/174/multimeter-recommendations/ but several of the links in that thread are broken. This video was pretty great though:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh1n_ELmpFI
And this is probably good for someone prepared to pay $50-150
Review: Mid Range / Priced Multimeter Shootout / Buyers Guide – 37:35
— mjlorton

The MySensors store recommends the Vichy VC99 Multimeter which is reviewed here:
Vichy VC99 Multimeter – 11:49
— electronupdate

Then there's UT120C http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT120C-Super-Slim-Pocket-Meters-Handheld-Digital-Multimeters-Meter-Tester-/262231841827 which is cheap, really small and has the DCA resolution I'm looking for. People seem to like it according to this thread.

I could also buy the UT33A, which is currently on sale for ~$18.30 http://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/el-verktyg/verktyg/matinstrument/multimetrar/uni-t-ut33a-multimeter-p48114 The upside with this multimeter is that I can buy it in a local store, and I can return it if it breaks.

The things I'm looking for:

• My main use case is to measure current in sleep mode to calculate battery life, so something that can measure with a resolution of 10uA or better would be nice.
• Diode testing up to ~3.6V would be nice as well. The CM1100 can only go to 1.8V.
• Small size - I don't have much storage space
• Value for money. Buy quality, cry once. But I don't want to buy something expensive that I'm not going to be able to utilize. I am a hobbyist after all.

What are your recommendations?

[hek]

I found a sparsely used Fluke 87V on an auction site. Super happy with it.

[TheoL]

I volunteered to teach some of my colleagues how to create projects with an Arduino. The final lesson will be creating MySensors based projects. At the moment there are 20 people who assigned for my course. If only the half of them wants to continue creating MySensors and other cool projects, I have a group of people that'll br big enough to order things with discount. That's why I follow topics like this with much interest.

[m26872]

@mfalkvidd Thx for tip! I'll try to get one of those ut33a myself. Looks nice and costs nearly nothing. Of course you often get what you pay for, but I think it's worth a chance in this case. I'll double check a few measurments against my old Fluke 87 before I trust it.

[TRS-80]

I probably shouldn't contribute to this thread, I just keep picking up those free ones from Harbor Freight!

/runs away in shame

LOL

[sundberg84]

I bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/221275125008?rmvSB=true (link from Mysensors shop) and are really happy with it. Looking at some reviews and compare with more expensive multimeters it seems to work out good. I added banana plugs cables which i recommend - http://www.ebay.com/itm/281532771631?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[GertSanders]

+1 for a Fluke 87. They are solid and have lifetime warranty. Get a second hand one and it still applies. My mark4 is no longer on the market, but the current model does all you want and they are virtually unbreakable. Quality has a cost. I never go for cheap tools, but if you want cost to be low I would do what @hek did: find a working second hand Fluke. It will keep working ....

[alexsh1]

@mfalkvidd said:

VC99

Yes, this is what I have bought recently. The quality is amazing. No need to go for a Fluke and you'd be positively surprised how accurate it is

[mfalkvidd]

This is a quick comparison of the specs for the ones I've checked so far (click for larger version).

The UTC-120C is really nice with the super-slim form factor, but it is not able to measure small DC currents so it is no better than my current multimeter.

[tbowmo]

@mfalkvidd

One disadvantage with the UT120C, is that the test leads are not removable from the instrument. I like to have the opportunity to use whatever I have at hand (preferably one with "banana plugs"..). This also makes it a lot easier to connect for example an uCurrent gold at a later time..

[DavidZH]

And one other remark about the Uni-T meters (all of them!) and a lot of other cheap meters: do not try to measure mains voltage with those! Officially they are capable of doing that, but the protection inside the meters is way below adequate. If you make a short with the test pins (or a high energy surge comes through the line at the moment you're metering it will blow up in your hands!

So as long as you're testing low power devices, you're ok. Otherwise I'd really advice to save a bite longer and buy yourself something proper (Fluke , Keysight and what I saw of Brymen is built proper as well).

[A Former User]

@DavidZH That is not true. I own an UNI-T UT136D. Couple days before I was installing shutters controlled by relays, arduino and so on. So, I wanted to measure the voltage and forgot to switch the probes from A to V... flash and BOOM! The fuse has been blown up in thousands, but if you see i am still here writing to you

After that i replaced the fuse, cleaned up the inner parts and it's working without any failure.

[m26872]

@DavidZH You're right. Thanks for bringing up the safety aspect, it should have been done earlier. I guess online teardowns will show if the DMM level of protection corresponds with the specification. Of course the fault current rating isn't near the level of high-end professional tools, but hopefully satisfactory. The greatest risk I can think of is if someone uses it to measure on the wrong side of their common household fuse (10-16A), but then you can argue that fiddling there without enough knowledge or skill is the first mistake.

@kenci Blowing up something then survive and clean up doesn't sound too reassuring. But real tests are always valuable so thanks for sharing.

[mfalkvidd]

The safety aspect is mentioned in the videos I linked and in several of the threads. Yes, it is important if the multimeter will be used for measuring household mains. I don't plan on measuring anything above 24V, and most often 5V and lower so I am not that concerned.

[m26872]

In some sense I guess there's a dilemma that you'll need a better tool the less you know.

Btw, I'm now a proud owner of the super cheap ut33a. At 10A socket it says "Unfused". FYI I've plugged that socket. Useless and dangerous.

[peteorito]

Hi!! I have UT70A . I bought some year ago and i am very happy with it. It has many posibilities.

[alexsh1]

@hek would you mind me asking how much you paid for the Fluke?

[hek]

@alexsh1

$270 (including shipping from Poland)
Looked like it never ever had been used. It still had the plastic shield on the display and everything was wrapped up nicely without any scratches or anything.

[alexsh1]

@hek Still expensive IMHO but this is Fluke's price. In fact it is 1/2 what the multimeter costs normally

[RJ_Make]

Late to the party...., but I absolutely love Fluke. I have several and they are build very well.

[m26872]

I have to agree... I think you'll need at least one Fluke.

[mountainman]

Temped by EEVblog BM235 Multimeter especially given it comes with some nice silicone leads.

https://www.eevblog.com/product/bm235-multimeter/

The flukes are very nice though!

[TheoL]

I'm looking for a one that's a bit cheaper. And so a voltcraft VC 130-1. Is that a decent multi meter for a hobbyist?

[AWI]

@TheoL great meter for that money. Would not hesitate to buy

[NeverDie]

This post is deleted!

[marchen]

Anyone reading this post, and thinking of buying Multimeter , I recommend buying a like this one,.
Because you cannot measure AC current using that traditional multimeter like this one.
Accuracy of clamp is greater than the traditional one, you can also detect the flux or EMF using clamp meter. It will be very usefull in detecting live wires with current and in the projects related to coils as it can detect EMF.

[gohan]

It depends what your main usage is: the clamp meter is not very handy on a desk for example.

[Nca78]

@marchen how good is that to measure currents below 10uA ?

[marchen]

@Nca78 Yes it may be a problem to measure currents in micro amperes but normal multimeter can't ever measure the current in milli amps accurately.

[alowhum]

I have a completely automatic one, and I love it. It doesn't have a dial you have to turn to determine sensitivity.

All it basically has is an on button and two leads.

This gives me much more assurance that I won't fry the multimeter, so I use it a lot more.

[alexsh1]

OK, my best recommendation is Brymen BM869 (with logging) or there is a model without logging.

I have also supported a kickstarter project for a new Dave's multimeter EEVblog 121GW - https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/eevblog/eevblog-121gw-multimeter

There is another model EEVblog BM235 which I can highly recommend.

I have changed my mind about Vichy VC99 multimeter. Mine failed after a year and the build quality is just poor - you would not want to test even 240V with it. However, it has been very accurate in the beginning and extremely cheap.

[alexsh1]

@nca78 for such a low current the best bet would be EEVblog's uCurrent
https://www.adafruit.com/product/882

[Nca78]

@alexsh1 yes and no. I measure at 3.3V then run my low power nodes on a button cell so below 3V voltage, so I measure current a bit higher than the real one when node is on battery and I'm sure the battery life I calculate will be met. I don't need an ultra precise measurement I just need to know if I'm in the expected range or if something is wrong.

[alexsh1]

@nca78 Sometimes I need to measure current as low as 2uA. I do not think I can do that with my multimeter. So uCurrent is a good investment from my perspective.

[gohan]

@alexsh1 https://www.openhardware.io/view/380/Micro-nano-ampere-meter-double I think it is a good alternative from a cost perspective

[alexsh1]

@gohan I have looked at it, but never managed to complete it.

[gohan]

same here, I made the PCB with all headers and resistors but need to prepare che enclosure

[JohnRob]

I already had a Fluke 72 (old one with no current range below 10 Amps).

So for better accuracy, I purchased an HP 3478a digital multimeter on eBay for about $140. It gives me all the accuracy I want (but probably don't need) and has 1 µA resolution (accuracy is somewhat less but for tweaking battery usage stability makes it usable.

Of course it is not as portable as it needs mains power.

[mfalkvidd]

I just realized I forgot to report back. I bought a multimeter called pm18c. The temperature sensor is very fragile - broke almost immediately. But the rest works well. I still use my old small multimeter a lot though, the pm18c is a bit bulky.

Big thanks to everyone for the input!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33043413742.html

[gohan]

Aneng an8009 or similar is still a really good buy, 9999 counts is not something you get usually from cheap meters

[Nca78]

@gohan said in Multimeter recommendation?:

Aneng an8009 or similar is still a really good buy, 9999 counts is not something you get usually from cheap meters

I bought one and I don't suggest to buy it for MySensors projects.
Plugs for mA and uA are separated, and it makes it a pain to measure current consumption in battery powered nodes, you have to unplug/replug the wire to change scale between the 2 modes. When node is sleeping and you are in mA modes you don't see anything. When you are in uA and node is waking up it doesn't have enough current going through the multimeter and it resets.

[gohan]

It is a common issue I see in these small cheap meters. There is always the openhardware current meter for what you are suggesting

[Nca78]

@gohan said in Multimeter recommendation?:

It is a common issue I see in these small cheap meters. There is always the openhardware current meter for what you are suggesting

Sure but there are other multimeters with a common plug between mA and uA so you can just change range on the selector and you don't have to cut the power to your node during that switch.