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  1. Home
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  3. DIY Outdoor LED

DIY Outdoor LED

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved General Discussion
diyled12vdrivercree
60 Posts 12 Posters 21.7k Views 6 Watching
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  • A activemind

    Will the FET get hot even with 2.4A when its rated for much more?

    I am thinking of building one node and trying it out to see if there is any fallout. This will be for my landscape lights so its not like it will be running 24/7.

    The plan IS to run a 14/2 wire running 12V. I could do 12/2 if the voltage drop is too bad. My runs should not be obscenely long...I guess I will have to just try and see what the drop is.

    Thanks again for all your feedback.

    -AM

    mfalkviddM Offline
    mfalkviddM Offline
    mfalkvidd
    Mod
    wrote on last edited by
    #23

    @activemind said:

    Will the FET get hot even with 2.4A when its rated for much more?

    Probably not. As long as you check the rating you should be fine.

    The plan IS to run a 14/2 wire running 12V. I could do 12/2 if the voltage drop is too bad. My runs should not be obscenely long...I guess I will have to just try and see what the drop is.

    14 AWG has a resistance of 0.00829 ohm per meter (source). Assuming you have 15m from the outlet to the light, the resistance in the cable will be 0.2487 ohm (0.00829 * 15 * 2). At 2.4A that will result in a voltage drop of 2.4 * 0.2487=0,60V. That shouldn't be a problem.

    If the distance from the outlet to the lights is longer, and you want to connect multiple lights without running multiple cables, the calculation doesn't look very good. Let's say the cable needs to be 30m and you want 5 lights, then we have a cable resistance of 0.00829 * 30 * 2=0.5 ohm and a voltage drop of 2.4 * 5 * 0.5=6V :exclamation:
    12 AWG will give you 0.00521 * 30 * 2=0.3126 ohm and 2.4 * 5 * 0.3126=3,75V voltage drop which also might be too much.

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    • A Offline
      A Offline
      activemind
      wrote on last edited by
      #24

      I would put my distance around 20m so that should be okay but I DO plan on putting multiple of these on a single run hence larger current!

      I really dont want to do multiple runs.

      Two options:

      1. I need to see how bright the light is with < 12V ?
      2. Use some regulator to bump up the voltage at the location. I will be building a seperate box anyways to house the FET and MySensors circuitry, so maybe put a regulator there?

      What do you think?

      -AM

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      • mfalkviddM Offline
        mfalkviddM Offline
        mfalkvidd
        Mod
        wrote on last edited by
        #25

        Option 2 would require larger current (2.4A at 12V will require at least 4.8A at 6V) so the problem just gets worse. Better to increase the voltage, maybe run 24V and regulate down to 12V at each light?

        A 1 Reply Last reply
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        • mfalkviddM mfalkvidd

          Option 2 would require larger current (2.4A at 12V will require at least 4.8A at 6V) so the problem just gets worse. Better to increase the voltage, maybe run 24V and regulate down to 12V at each light?

          A Offline
          A Offline
          activemind
          wrote on last edited by
          #26

          @mfalkvidd
          But i already have server grade 12v power supplies and i dont want to buy new ones.

          Is the LED really going to draw 2.4A? I will hook up one today and measure.

          What's the max safe amount of current i can carry on 14/2 LV wire?

          If push comes to shove, i might do multiple runs 😢

          -AM

          Boots33B 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • A activemind

            @mfalkvidd
            But i already have server grade 12v power supplies and i dont want to buy new ones.

            Is the LED really going to draw 2.4A? I will hook up one today and measure.

            What's the max safe amount of current i can carry on 14/2 LV wire?

            If push comes to shove, i might do multiple runs 😢

            -AM

            Boots33B Offline
            Boots33B Offline
            Boots33
            Hero Member
            wrote on last edited by
            #27

            @activemind

            Each led would draw around 410ma
            5/12=.416

            mfalkviddM 1 Reply Last reply
            1
            • mfalkviddM Offline
              mfalkviddM Offline
              mfalkvidd
              Mod
              wrote on last edited by
              #28

              According to http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm the limit for 14 awg is 5.9A.

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              • Boots33B Boots33

                @activemind

                Each led would draw around 410ma
                5/12=.416

                mfalkviddM Offline
                mfalkviddM Offline
                mfalkvidd
                Mod
                wrote on last edited by mfalkvidd
                #29

                @Boots33 correct! I edited my previous calculation. Sorry for misleading you @activemind My voltage drop calculations are off by 5x so you will be able to use 5 lights instead of 1 at 2.4A. That means you'll only get in trouble if you plan to use 20+ lights.

                A 1 Reply Last reply
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                • mfalkviddM mfalkvidd

                  @Boots33 correct! I edited my previous calculation. Sorry for misleading you @activemind My voltage drop calculations are off by 5x so you will be able to use 5 lights instead of 1 at 2.4A. That means you'll only get in trouble if you plan to use 20+ lights.

                  A Offline
                  A Offline
                  activemind
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #30

                  @mfalkvidd

                  Phew! I think i should be okay as i dont plan on putting more than 10 on a string.

                  -AM

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                  • A Offline
                    A Offline
                    activemind
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #31

                    Slightly off topic question, but I am looking for a benchtop power supply (yeah! been managing without one for so long) and wanted y'all opinion on this:

                    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DPS-305BM-Digital-Control-30V-5A-DC-Laboratory-Adjustable-power-supply-for-Laptop-Repair/785631910.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.1.zVG69O&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_9,searchweb201602_3_10037_10017_10034_10021_507_10022_10032_10009_10020_10008_10018_10019,searchweb201603_2&btsid=0ad919a2-0637-4aba-9918-1454e14c1f43

                    Or

                    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Benchtop-Power-Board-DIY-a-desktop-DC-power-by-an-old-computer-power-supply/32615031628.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.261.IcezQA

                    Or something else that doesnt cost a fortune.(<$100).

                    -AM

                    1 Reply Last reply
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                    • A Offline
                      A Offline
                      activemind
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #32

                      Or this one looks interesting too...good reviews on Amazon

                      http://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Supply/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1462210519&sr=1-2

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                      • A Offline
                        A Offline
                        activemind
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #33

                        Ended up blowing the regulator on a 5V pro mini when powered at 12V. Maybe its the "clone" part from china that is causing this but it gave out smoke and finally died when powered at 9V.

                        Going to assemble another 5V pro mini and power at 5V to test the board and circuit.

                        Thinking about putting a hefty 150R 1W ressistor before feeding 12V to RAW in final circuit.

                        Thoughts?

                        -AM

                        Boots33B 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • A activemind

                          Ended up blowing the regulator on a 5V pro mini when powered at 12V. Maybe its the "clone" part from china that is causing this but it gave out smoke and finally died when powered at 9V.

                          Going to assemble another 5V pro mini and power at 5V to test the board and circuit.

                          Thinking about putting a hefty 150R 1W ressistor before feeding 12V to RAW in final circuit.

                          Thoughts?

                          -AM

                          Boots33B Offline
                          Boots33B Offline
                          Boots33
                          Hero Member
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #34

                          @activemind

                          You could also use an external regulator module to supply the 5v. at the moment you are running right on the pro mini maximum voltage which in my mind is never a good thing for long term reliability. I have used these modules with great success, they work with a wide level of input voltage and can be adjusted, so can be set to 5v or 3v output . They are quite cheap as well so if you have the room they may be worth a look.

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                          • A Offline
                            A Offline
                            activemind
                            wrote on last edited by activemind
                            #35

                            Yeah, those would work good and I can feed 5V rather than 12V ar RAW pin.

                            How are these adjusted to output 5V?

                            edit: nevermind, I see the pot screw to adjust the output voltage.

                            -AM

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                            • A Offline
                              A Offline
                              activemind
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #36

                              assembled another pro mini board and powered it using 5V wall wart this time, no 3v3 on the board. I think I blew 662K part too.

                              Let me try replacing it.

                              -AM

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                              • A Offline
                                A Offline
                                activemind
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #37

                                replaced the 662K part and now it seems to be working fine. I dug up my stash and found one step down converter like above. Let me power the node using it and see how it goes.

                                -AM

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                                • A Offline
                                  A Offline
                                  activemind
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #38

                                  Powering a motion sensor sketch using the buck converter above. I wish I had my 12V relays in...

                                  Here is a pic:

                                  0_1462699296292_20160508_022105.jpg

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                                  • A Offline
                                    A Offline
                                    activemind
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #39

                                    Connected the whole thing up....working nicely.

                                    Though I do see a flicker when I try to dim it...

                                    0_1462849176708_20160509_194454.jpg

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                                    • A Offline
                                      A Offline
                                      activemind
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #40

                                      Figured out the flicker issue, it was the power supply. I was using a puny 750mA wall wart which could handle the PWM duty cycle. Once I put my hefty 12V power supply, its behaving fine.

                                      I built a perfboard and the FET and was able to fit everything in a plastic DIY box from ebay.

                                      How do I weatherize this because this will be outside exposed to elements? Also thinking of making some holes in the box to vent out some heat.

                                      Whats the best way to do this?

                                      -AM

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                                      • A Offline
                                        A Offline
                                        activemind
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #41

                                        Ready to rock n roll...

                                        Packaging is done though I dont know how weatherproof this is going to be..0_1463108803840_20160512_183825_resized.jpg

                                        AWIA 1 Reply Last reply
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                                        • A activemind

                                          Ready to rock n roll...

                                          Packaging is done though I dont know how weatherproof this is going to be..0_1463108803840_20160512_183825_resized.jpg

                                          AWIA Offline
                                          AWIA Offline
                                          AWI
                                          Hero Member
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #42

                                          @activemind looks good. I use these boxes outside. Just turn it upside down and your circuit should be protected from rain. I'm not sure your connectors will survive on the long run. (in fact i'm sure they won't :wink: )

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