Is there a mysensor thread for this "mysensor" pro mini adapter?
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What size SMD did you use for yours? I might see if i can get a variety pack myself from amazon, i'm in the uk so have access to amazon. I think one of the resistors is 470r rather than 470k so the voltage divider didn't work although as i'm feeding it with 3v from two AA i used the internal reference method which worked well. I have to say i thought it ended up being quite long too and then when paired with the sensors you end up with some funny shapes to try and fit in a box :-)
Col
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@NeverDie the reason the radio sticks out is that otherwise the other components would be blocking the radio signal from reaching the antenna.
@mfalkvidd said:
@NeverDie the reason the radio sticks out is that otherwise the other components would be blocking the radio signal from reaching the antenna.
Not sure what you mean. Ssensebender seems to get by that way, doesn't it?
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@mfalkvidd said:
@NeverDie the reason the radio sticks out is that otherwise the other components would be blocking the radio signal from reaching the antenna.
Not sure what you mean. Ssensebender seems to get by that way, doesn't it?
@NeverDie I've got a few sensebenders and the range isn't great on them. i'm beginning to wonder if its because of the way the Radio is mounted of the PCB.
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@mfalkvidd said:
@NeverDie the reason the radio sticks out is that otherwise the other components would be blocking the radio signal from reaching the antenna.
Not sure what you mean. Ssensebender seems to get by that way, doesn't it?
@NeverDie said:
Not sure what you mean. Ssensebender seems to get by that way, doesn't it?
The sensebender PCB is blank in the area below where the antenna is.
https://www.openhardware.io/uploads/568d7feb0779a3581858ac2a/394/micro_radio.png
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@NeverDie said:
Not sure what you mean. Ssensebender seems to get by that way, doesn't it?
The sensebender PCB is blank in the area below where the antenna is.
https://www.openhardware.io/uploads/568d7feb0779a3581858ac2a/394/micro_radio.png
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If anyone is thinking of using this board Cory produced a PDF which has build instructions for 3.3 and 5v, I've uploaded it so it's easy for people to find.
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@Sparkman
Thanks! Makes sense. That clears up what you all are referring to.Now you have me wondering: is the JModule experiencing a problem in this regard?
@NeverDie said:
@Sparkman
Thanks! Makes sense. That clears up what you all are referring to.Now you have me wondering: is the JModule experiencing a problem in this regard?
It will definitely have reduced range in that direction, but any range issues can likely be minimized by orienting it differently. Would be interesting to compare the actual range reduction of it compared to the Sensebender.
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@NeverDie said:
@Sparkman
Thanks! Makes sense. That clears up what you all are referring to.Now you have me wondering: is the JModule experiencing a problem in this regard?
It will definitely have reduced range in that direction, but any range issues can likely be minimized by orienting it differently. Would be interesting to compare the actual range reduction of it compared to the Sensebender.
@Sparkman
Here's a photo of the one I put together:
Now you can see why, if it had been bent in a "U", I wasn't extremely concerned about having a blank area underneath. :wink: It would have had a ground plane between the RFM69 and the pro mini. Of course, in that case, I would have soldered the pro mini directly to the adapter board, so that it would be out of the way for the RFM69HW to float above it.
The pro mini's are nice because most of the tricky soldering has already been done for you, and they're nearly the same price as just the atmega328p component just by itself. I'm frankly puzzled as to why more designs don't leverage that obvious fact. True, there is some unsoldering work, which is a bit of a hassle: as you can see, I removed the voltage regulator and the two LEDs so that it doesn't waste any energy when running on two AA's. @chickey You may want to do similar, or else you'll waste energy from backfeeding your pro mini's voltage regulator.
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@Sparkman
Here's a photo of the one I put together:
Now you can see why, if it had been bent in a "U", I wasn't extremely concerned about having a blank area underneath. :wink: It would have had a ground plane between the RFM69 and the pro mini. Of course, in that case, I would have soldered the pro mini directly to the adapter board, so that it would be out of the way for the RFM69HW to float above it.
The pro mini's are nice because most of the tricky soldering has already been done for you, and they're nearly the same price as just the atmega328p component just by itself. I'm frankly puzzled as to why more designs don't leverage that obvious fact. True, there is some unsoldering work, which is a bit of a hassle: as you can see, I removed the voltage regulator and the two LEDs so that it doesn't waste any energy when running on two AA's. @chickey You may want to do similar, or else you'll waste energy from backfeeding your pro mini's voltage regulator.
