Iboard - Cheap Single board Ethernet Arduino with Radio
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I like it.. Just need some LED; Power and Inclusion Switch holes... :-)
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..but i dont have an old mouse case? ;-)
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Who needs a fancy printed case when you have some an old mouse case, a dremel and some glue :)
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I haven't really tested the range explicitly, and really the case is hopefully somewhat temporary. That said, the unit is in the basement and I have a temp sensor in the attic which works fine, and another sensor on the main floor at the other end of the house which also works fine.
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I have noticed that my ENC based ethernet gateway seems to lock up periodically (doesn't respond to ping or TCP on port 5003). I thought perhaps this case was overheating it, but now that doesn't seem to be the case. I'll be switching to one of the iBoard whenever it arrives, but had intended on using the ENC for another purpose, but perhaps not now.
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@ServiceXp Just added a new version of the box with LEDs and include button.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:483676 -
@ServiceXp Just added a new version of the box with LEDs and include button.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:483676 -
@ServiceXp Just added a new version of the box with LEDs and include button.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:483676 -
@ServiceXp Just added a new version of the box with LEDs and include button.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:483676 -
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I know it's a bit off topic but does anyone have a good idea of a general purpose printer? It seems like the 3D forums are full of people that love their own purchase/decision but have little constructive feedback.
@jtm312 - What do you use for small projects like this? Do you like it?
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I know it's a bit off topic but does anyone have a good idea of a general purpose printer? It seems like the 3D forums are full of people that love their own purchase/decision but have little constructive feedback.
@jtm312 - What do you use for small projects like this? Do you like it?
@tbully I'm using a Flashforge Creator. It's a Chinise clone of the original Makerbot GPL version. I have made a few minor mods to it and upgraded the firmware to the latest Sailfish version. It came mostly assembled, so I was up and running quickly. There are better printers on the market, but you get a lot for your money. Overall I have been happy with the investment, and it has been great to learn with.
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Anyone using the iBoard with 1.4, see: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/466/ethernet-gateway-problem/61#
Adding the line to setup gave me stability.
SPI.setClockDivider(SPI_CLOCK_DIV2); //to assist with gateway stability. -
IBoard: An ethernet gateway for about $20
As mentioned this is a really cheap all in one WizNet based Ethernet board. What makes it ideal for MySensors use is that it also includes a header for NRF24 radio..although an easy hardware modification is needed so we can use the sketches and libraries direct from Hek largely unmodified.
The designer of the iBoard used different pins rather than the standard MISO(D5), MOSI(D5) and SCK(D7)...
So you have two options...Either make the hardware mods described below or make the changes to the RF24 libraries.
If you want to go the software method, see the links to the modified RF24 libs at the bottom of the Wiki - http://wiki.iteadstudio.com/IBoardI chose the HW changes largely as i didnt fancy changing the library and mySensors has made some improvements to this library and I would need to modify them each time this is updated...not so interested in doing this!
So..the Hardware mod:
You need to cut the existing traces from the atmega going to the RF24 header ( D5,D6,D7) and then solder three short wires from the ISP header to the RF24 header.
We're lucky.. the ISP header is located right next to the RF24 header and this has the three pins we need to feed the radio.Cutting the traces:
Again some more luck. The three pins are together and on a corner of the Atmega so use a sharp Exacto knife of similar and cut these three traces.
If your nervous then use your multimeter to check you have the correct pins.Once cut, verify using your multimeter that they are now isolated nor shorted to GND.
In this image ive marked the pins to cut in RED http://i.imgur.com/2ztgmXS.jpg
And here is a bad photo of my cuts : http://i.imgur.com/KVARYqx.jpgThen you need to solder three wires:
Using some nice short wires connect the pins from the ISP header to the RF24 header
A picture tells 100 words so...http://i.imgur.com/jQoQLkS.jpgOk now some small changes to the sketch - still use this guide:
http://www.mysensors.org/build/vera#building-an-ethernet-connected-gateway-
As the board has WIZNET ( the sketch default is ENC28J60)
//#include <UIPEthernet.h> //Use this if you have attached a Ethernet ENC28J60
#include <Ethernet.h> // Use this fo WizNET module and Arduino Ethernet Shield -
Change the PINS assigned as the iboard is set to use D3 for CE and D8 for CSN:
#define RADIO_CE_PIN 3 // radio chip enable
#define RADIO_SPI_SS_PIN 8 // radio SPI serial selectThis will also require changing the LED pins to free ones like so:
#define RADIO_ERROR_LED_PIN 7 // Error led pin
#define RADIO_RX_LED_PIN 6 // Receive led pin
#define RADIO_TX_LED_PIN 9 // the PCB, on board LED
I dont use Include button or LED's so if you do want to , then post back with your solution.
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Set the IP and MAC as you need to. I have multiple ethernet arduinos on my LAN so i always change from the default DEADBEEFFEED to something else...just change a few of the existing HEX.
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Connect it to your USB programmer - ENSURE ITS SET TO 3.3V ( dont let the smoke out!! )
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Set Arduino IDE to "Duemilanove" - and upload away!!
Testing:
You should be able to ping the IP address, and if your radio is working you will see any messages from your mySensors sensors in the serial console.Other notes:
- I'm using a NRF24l01+PA+LNA which have higher power requiremnts than the non ampified radios. - working great! I didnt need a decoupling capacitor either.
- The Iboard does have some non-standard support for POE. One of the customer reviews on the product page talks about this...im yet to try this. I do have some passive injectors ready to go..just haven't done it yet ;-)
Good luck.
@gregl Thank you for your guide how to do the hardware changes. I'm more of a software guy, so I would like to try that route. You mentioned the software changes to the RF24 library in the wiki, but where should I change this library? I'm would like to use the EthernetGateway.ino on the iBoard, but I'm missing something and I can't figure out what it is. Just started with MySensors.
I hope you can give me some pointers.
Thanks a lot!
Firestarter -
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@Firestarter said:
ges to the RF24 library in the wiki, but where should I change this library? I'm would like to use the EthernetGateway.ino on the iBoard, but I'm missing something and I can't figure out what it is. Just started with MySensors.
I hope you can give me some pointers.
Hi Firestarter...Welcome! MySensors is very cool and keeps getting better all the time from community ideas/projects... and of course Hek keeps improving and adding great stuff all the time too!
The "wiki" i made reference too is here:http://wiki.iteadstudio.com/IBoard
at the bottom is some "Useful Links" two of which are to forks of the RF24 library. So you could go this route, but as i think i said before, if you do then you need to repeat if/whenever there is a change to the RF24 lib used by the other sensors you create...or you need to have 2 diff versions of the lib....
Imho, doing the hardware hack is best as its a one off job ( and its easy )and then you can load newer versions without needing to worry about lib changes!Good luck and enjoy!
