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  1. Home
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  3. Capacitors and switching power supplies

Capacitors and switching power supplies

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  • mfalkviddM Offline
    mfalkviddM Offline
    mfalkvidd
    Mod
    wrote on last edited by
    #4

    The recommendation is to place a 4.7uF cap as close as possible to the nrf chip. I am not familiar with the adapter board but the cap should be placed after the voltage regulator.

    1 Reply Last reply
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    • OitzuO Offline
      OitzuO Offline
      Oitzu
      wrote on last edited by
      #5

      @moskovskiy82 said:

      I am using external chargers 5V for powering my sensors (some are old branded nokia ones, others are a cheap chinese replacement).
      Power goes to arduino VCC (arduino pro mini 5V) and also the NRF24 adapter board (containing the voltage regulator and some capacitors - got it off aliexpress).

      I wonder if adding a decoupling capacitor just before power is split to arduino and NRF24 board will help in any way. If yes what is the best value for the capacitor?

      Well, the arduino should have some decoupling on the board itself, also the decoupling on the NRF24 adapter board should be sufficent.
      You could add a low-pass filter after the power supply (are your supplys switching regulators?) to reduce the ripple produced, but the frequency rejection of the linear regulators should also handle this fine.

      M ronnyandreR 2 Replies Last reply
      0
      • OitzuO Oitzu

        @moskovskiy82 said:

        I am using external chargers 5V for powering my sensors (some are old branded nokia ones, others are a cheap chinese replacement).
        Power goes to arduino VCC (arduino pro mini 5V) and also the NRF24 adapter board (containing the voltage regulator and some capacitors - got it off aliexpress).

        I wonder if adding a decoupling capacitor just before power is split to arduino and NRF24 board will help in any way. If yes what is the best value for the capacitor?

        Well, the arduino should have some decoupling on the board itself, also the decoupling on the NRF24 adapter board should be sufficent.
        You could add a low-pass filter after the power supply (are your supplys switching regulators?) to reduce the ripple produced, but the frequency rejection of the linear regulators should also handle this fine.

        M Offline
        M Offline
        moskovskiy82
        wrote on last edited by
        #6

        @Oitzu

        Thanks for the great explanation!

        1 Reply Last reply
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        • OitzuO Oitzu

          @moskovskiy82 said:

          I am using external chargers 5V for powering my sensors (some are old branded nokia ones, others are a cheap chinese replacement).
          Power goes to arduino VCC (arduino pro mini 5V) and also the NRF24 adapter board (containing the voltage regulator and some capacitors - got it off aliexpress).

          I wonder if adding a decoupling capacitor just before power is split to arduino and NRF24 board will help in any way. If yes what is the best value for the capacitor?

          Well, the arduino should have some decoupling on the board itself, also the decoupling on the NRF24 adapter board should be sufficent.
          You could add a low-pass filter after the power supply (are your supplys switching regulators?) to reduce the ripple produced, but the frequency rejection of the linear regulators should also handle this fine.

          ronnyandreR Offline
          ronnyandreR Offline
          ronnyandre
          wrote on last edited by
          #7

          @Oitzu do you have a recipe for making such low-pass filter?

          Newbie with RPi and Domoticz, trying to automate my home.

          AWIA 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • ronnyandreR ronnyandre

            @Oitzu do you have a recipe for making such low-pass filter?

            AWIA Offline
            AWIA Offline
            AWI
            Hero Member
            wrote on last edited by AWI
            #8

            @ronnyandre Things are sooo easy (if you have a degree in electronics ;-) ) An effective design includes multiple filters and depends for a great deal on the switching frequency (and harmonics). A typical design could look like this. 0_1492496982218_upload-8c6d3a13-308d-48a9-9bfa-45e7ca0f30c4

            An linear regulator (like LM7805) can be very effective for low frequencies (~ < 10kHz) but not for high frequencies.

            In most of the cases when working with phone mains adapters the 'standard' (uno/ nano) regulator (1117) with capacitors damps sufficiently.

            1 Reply Last reply
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            • ronnyandreR Offline
              ronnyandreR Offline
              ronnyandre
              wrote on last edited by
              #9

              Wow @AWI that looked more advanced than I thought.. :sweat_smile:

              Newbie with RPi and Domoticz, trying to automate my home.

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              • OitzuO Offline
                OitzuO Offline
                Oitzu
                wrote on last edited by
                #10

                @ronnyandre The main reason for using a filter would be a crappy/cheap switching power supply.
                I needed to use one of these filters on a cheap LM2596s (clone) module to filter the output to a nrf24l01+ pa/lna module.

                Unlike @AWI 's solution i just added a second stage after the first stage (that is on the module).
                http://blog.blackoise.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/lc-filter-schem1.jpg
                L1: 3.3µH
                C1: 220µF
                Worked fine enough to get the nrf24l01+ pa/lna module working.

                ronnyandreR gohanG 2 Replies Last reply
                0
                • OitzuO Oitzu

                  @ronnyandre The main reason for using a filter would be a crappy/cheap switching power supply.
                  I needed to use one of these filters on a cheap LM2596s (clone) module to filter the output to a nrf24l01+ pa/lna module.

                  Unlike @AWI 's solution i just added a second stage after the first stage (that is on the module).
                  http://blog.blackoise.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/lc-filter-schem1.jpg
                  L1: 3.3µH
                  C1: 220µF
                  Worked fine enough to get the nrf24l01+ pa/lna module working.

                  ronnyandreR Offline
                  ronnyandreR Offline
                  ronnyandre
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #11

                  @Oitzu Thanks! I'll try that one out :simple_smile:

                  Newbie with RPi and Domoticz, trying to automate my home.

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • OitzuO Oitzu

                    @ronnyandre The main reason for using a filter would be a crappy/cheap switching power supply.
                    I needed to use one of these filters on a cheap LM2596s (clone) module to filter the output to a nrf24l01+ pa/lna module.

                    Unlike @AWI 's solution i just added a second stage after the first stage (that is on the module).
                    http://blog.blackoise.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/lc-filter-schem1.jpg
                    L1: 3.3µH
                    C1: 220µF
                    Worked fine enough to get the nrf24l01+ pa/lna module working.

                    gohanG Offline
                    gohanG Offline
                    gohan
                    Mod
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #12

                    @Oitzu I am about to buy some of those LM2596s, the values for the filter components are suitable for LM2596 in general or it is something more specific that you had to calculate? Did you make the impedance yourself?

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                    • OitzuO Offline
                      OitzuO Offline
                      Oitzu
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #13

                      @gohan these values are just the ones i used and should filter lowpass at about 5.9 kHz.
                      The ripple on the LM2596s is usually arround 25-50kHz. (Depends on which clone you get. ;))

                      I'm no electrical engineer. Maybe @AWI can comment if there may be a more suitable component selection.

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