PhoneyTV for Vera is Here!
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I followed your instructions and built a PhoneyTV this weekend. Great success!
This was the first time I used a prototype board to build something and it wasn't really that difficult. If there is some other beginner out there who's thinking about building this project, I say go for it.While I was at it I put a DHT22 on the board, maybe I'll substitute it for a Dallas DS18B20 to cut cost.
Good thinking on the Dallas sensor. I just ordered a few and am looking forward to adding them here and there as I build more stuff.
And soldering isn't too bad, yeah?
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The Sketch:
the Schematic...
So simple, there is no reason not to try it!
There is an UPDATED Version below, which adds a momentary pushbutton switch to control it locally. (software debounce)
Hi
Im a bit confused about the J1 in the schematic... It seems you dont use it or i dont understand what it is :-)
But how is the diodes then connected to the board?Regards
Jan -
Hi
Im a bit confused about the J1 in the schematic... It seems you dont use it or i dont understand what it is :-)
But how is the diodes then connected to the board?Regards
Jan@stofakiller said:
Hi
Im a bit confused about the J1 in the schematic... It seems you dont use it or i dont understand what it is :-)
But how is the diodes then connected to the board?Regards
JanJan,
the LEDs I used are through-hole pins; I soldered them to the board. The photo shows their respective resistors connected to them accordingly. I soldered a trace to connect all of the cathodes to ground, put the resistors in series with the anodes. PIN>>RESISTOR>>ANODE.
As far as the connector numbers go, use the MySensors standard radio connection and the pinouts for the LEDs detailed in the sketch. In my experience, having the Blue and White on some PWM gives a more realistic effect. The numbers don't match the Nano because I used the header component in the software I used to create the circuit diagram.
good luck why your build!
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@stofakiller said:
Hi
Im a bit confused about the J1 in the schematic... It seems you dont use it or i dont understand what it is :-)
But how is the diodes then connected to the board?Regards
JanJan,
the LEDs I used are through-hole pins; I soldered them to the board. The photo shows their respective resistors connected to them accordingly. I soldered a trace to connect all of the cathodes to ground, put the resistors in series with the anodes. PIN>>RESISTOR>>ANODE.
As far as the connector numbers go, use the MySensors standard radio connection and the pinouts for the LEDs detailed in the sketch. In my experience, having the Blue and White on some PWM gives a more realistic effect. The numbers don't match the Nano because I used the header component in the software I used to create the circuit diagram.
good luck why your build!
Okay, now i better understand, because in the schematics the J1 is connected to pin 3 and i didnt get it to work, but also the D1 you use is Blue, but in the sketch the first one you use is white ;-) So now i got the 6 diodes connected, what about the other 6? :-) are the connected parallel? (whites, red greens etc)
Regards Jan
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Okay, now i better understand, because in the schematics the J1 is connected to pin 3 and i didnt get it to work, but also the D1 you use is Blue, but in the sketch the first one you use is white ;-) So now i got the 6 diodes connected, what about the other 6? :-) are the connected parallel? (whites, red greens etc)
Regards Jan
@stofakiller said:
Okay, now i better understand, because in the schematics the J1 is connected to pin 3 and i didnt get it to work, but also the D1 you use is Blue, but in the sketch the first one you use is white ;-) So now i got the 6 diodes connected, what about the other 6? :-) are the connected parallel? (whites, red greens etc)
Regards Jan
Sorry about the schematic, I actually recall thinking that would come back to haunt me. I'll fix it to make it easier for the next guy :)
Yes, I put two LEDs on each 'channel' wired in parallel. This way, you can power all 12 LEDs with the arduino, no problem.
Six channels with two LEDs each.
Blue1
Blue2
White1
White2
Red
GreenI arranged them in this 4 x 3 matrix attached and used more space between the rows for a square-ish (that isn't a real word!) arrangement.
FYI, I'll probably get to adding a pushbutton to turn it on/off. I'll post that if I can get to it.
I also wanted to look at using SoftPWM.h and move some LEDs to the analogue side for even more variation in brightness.
Finally, I want random go-dark dips (turning all LEDs off for a moment) and I didn't want to do it using delays, I will get that in there too.
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I have an updated version attached to:
Add a pushbutton to control it locally (I am using an interrupt on Digital Pin 2, which is not in use presently, so you can disconnect your radio connection to pin 2)
Improved the dark dips of light, again trying to make it even more realistic.
cleaned up the code to make it (a lot) simpler; I eliminated the generic relay 'stuff' and made is single use, basically.Now you can leave it plugged in and turn it off if you are occupying the room... and no longer have to worry about plugging it back in :)
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Completed upgrade to version 1.4, removing Relay capability.
PhoneyTV update attached:
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Hi @BulldogLowell
get work am in the middle of working the hardware
I cant seem to download the V2 or V3.1 versions I get the reply as is is the pic
Suggestions?
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@BulldogLowell In the final stage of boxing this unit I like it and sure will use it in the coming months.
Question is when it was included to vera she made the node and then created the light node for it complete with on and off buttons, are they supposed to work or ignore these and use the local interrupt on d2 but would be cool to control this remotely with vera or in a scene.Great project!
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@BulldogLowell In the final stage of boxing this unit I like it and sure will use it in the coming months.
Question is when it was included to vera she made the node and then created the light node for it complete with on and off buttons, are they supposed to work or ignore these and use the local interrupt on d2 but would be cool to control this remotely with vera or in a scene.Great project!
@5546dug said:
are they supposed to work or ignore these and use the local interrupt on d2
you will be able to turn on/off at the controller and with the (quite optional) attached button!
do you need it to work just by the button, and no controller? that is an easy mod if that is your use case.
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@BulldogLowell , In a perfect world I would like to control Phoney TV over vera/my sensors.
right now I can use RST to drop the lights for a few secs only, but that is a physical action .I did look at phoney tv 2.0 and see the pin was changed to pinbutton and declared as an output?
There was a relay in this sketch, or is the vera switch node to be therelay ? I see when you push button it changes the state of the lights but I think not the power to the nano.I guessing my guesses are wrong.
Enough guessing from an old guy!
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@BulldogLowell , In a perfect world I would like to control Phoney TV over vera/my sensors.
right now I can use RST to drop the lights for a few secs only, but that is a physical action .I did look at phoney tv 2.0 and see the pin was changed to pinbutton and declared as an output?
There was a relay in this sketch, or is the vera switch node to be therelay ? I see when you push button it changes the state of the lights but I think not the power to the nano.I guessing my guesses are wrong.
Enough guessing from an old guy!
Actually, the arduino never turns "off." Rather, cycling the "power" merely stops the output to the blinking/fading LEDs.
I'm not clear on your question... are you trying to use PhoneyTV without a controller at all?
anyways, you want the latest version above: PhoneyTV_V3.1_MySensors_V1.4.1.ino, i think
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@BulldogLowell yes I have v3.1 So I was wrong -at least consistent!
I have Vera controller and at the moment My Sensors serial GW is connected ,The vera dashboard shows node for light on and off and that is really what I want. To start the lights remotely , I think using the reset locally (d2 to gnd?) may work but only if we are there
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@BulldogLowell yes I have v3.1 So I was wrong -at least consistent!
I have Vera controller and at the moment My Sensors serial GW is connected ,The vera dashboard shows node for light on and off and that is really what I want. To start the lights remotely , I think using the reset locally (d2 to gnd?) may work but only if we are there
@5546dug said:
The vera dashboard shows node for light on and off and that is really what I want.
then you are there...
is it working?
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@BulldogLowell I see in v3.1 pin d2 is called ' button pin' and is an' input' and 'pullup'
(understand it is for the pushbutton use but even then it is only for a few sec. in my setup.)
Also there is d13 defined as for the relay and used with the radio could that be an issue?How is the controller/GW telling the Phoney TV to change states? Do I need to run a wire from d2 (?) to gnd/vcc to create an interupt?
I don't really need the button, but I will leave it there
