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  3. How low can arduino can go?

How low can arduino can go?

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powerarduino pro minlow consumption
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  • H HarryDutch

    @funky81

    If you have a problem with your project (in this case you can't get the power consumption down to microamps) it's maybe a good idea to start with a bare minimum setup. In this case an Arduino Pro Mini, a regulated power supply and a sketch that's puts the Arduino to sleep. So for now you better focus on sleeping the Pro Mini and bring current consumption down to a couple of microamps before trying anything else.

    First you need to understand what these power savings are all about. This site (Nick Gammon) is all you need to know about power saving techniques for microprocessors (a must read):
    http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11497

    Read it all, do some of the examples yourself and above all try to understand what's happening.

    After that start with your basic setup to put the Arduino to sleep. This is how I do it:

    Arduino Pro Mini: use the 3.3v version. Remove the power led because it's useless and it's still using a couple of milliamps. I lift it off the board by using a small watchmaker screwdriver. Try to get it between the bottom side of the led and the pcb and use some force to lift it from the board. You could also cut one of the connections from the led to the board. For now don't remove the voltage regulator (more about this later).

    For the power supply I use a 3.3 volt LDO voltage regulator. In this case the HT7333-A (TO-92 package). I know there are a lot more LDO voltage regulators to choose from, but I have good results with this LDO. Search Ebay for it. Price is about $4 for 20 pieces. They have an ultra low quiescent current of only 4 microamps. According to the datasheet you need a 10 uF cap across Vin and GND and Vout and GND so use them. Find and read the datasheet to find out how to connect it.

    I’m using 3 AAA batteries (alkaline) to power the voltage regulator. Later on you can try other options (step-up, step-down, other regulators and so on) but for now stick with the setup as described above.

    Finally use the sketch below to put the Mini to sleep and check with your multimeter the current consumption. In this case I measured 38 uA with the voltage regulator in place (Voltcraft VC170 digital multimeter). After removing the voltage regulator I measured a current of only 3uA. Be aware that measuring very low currents are influenced by burden voltage (this is a nice video about burden voltage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRP98k3Rh1E).

    #include <avr/sleep.h>
    
    void setup () 
    {
      // disable ADC
      ADCSRA = 0;  
      
      set_sleep_mode (SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);  
      sleep_enable();
     
      // turn off brown-out enable in software
      MCUCR = bit (BODS) | bit (BODSE);
      MCUCR = bit (BODS); 
      sleep_cpu ();              // sleep within 3 clock cycles of above
    
    }  // end of setup
    
    void loop () { }
    
    

    Question is if it's really necessary to remove the voltage regulator to save an extra 35 uA. There is a nice battery life calculator here: http://oregonembedded.com/batterycalc.htm that will show you the difference in battery life when using 3uA or 38uA. I think a minimum period of 1 year before you have to replace/recharge your batteries is acceptable. Suppose you're using 3 AAA alkaline batteries. Capacity rating is then 1200 mAh (capacity is automatically derated by 15% to account for some self discharge.) Current consumption (without the regulator) is 0.003 mA. Current consumption during wake is 25 mA and the number of wakeups per hour is 12 (for example you take a temperature measurement every 5 minutes). Durations of wake time is 50 ms. If you use these figures with the calculator, battery life is 16 years. If you change 0.003 mA into 0.038 mA battery life will be 2.7 years. So you have to ask yourself if removing the voltage regulator (with the risk of destroying your mini which happened to me more than once) is really necessary. In this case I think it's not.

    If you really want to remove the regulator there are several ways to do this. Best way (at least for me) is first cutting the legs of the regulator with a very sharp scalpel. Be careful to cut only the legs and not the board beneath it. Then try to lift it from the board by using a needle nose pliers. Use minimal force! If you have to use too much force then try to cut the legs a little further.

    So there you have it. First try to prove to yourself that it's possible to get current consumption for an Arduino Pro Mini down to a few microamps and only then continue your adventures in MySensors land! Hope this helps.

    D Offline
    D Offline
    Dheeraj
    Plugin Developer
    wrote on last edited by
    #12

    @HarryDutch said:

    f you really want to remove the regulator there are several ways to do this. Best way (at least for me) is first cutting the legs of the regulator with a very sharp scalpel. Be careful to cut only the legs and not the board beneath it. Then try to lift it from the board by using a needle nose pliers. Use minimal force! If you have to use too much force then try to cut the legs a little further.

    So there you have it. First try to prove to yourself that it's possible to get current consumption for an Arduino Pro Mini down to a few microamps and only then continue your adventures in MySensors land! Hope this helps.

    really nice explanation of using battery with the sensor node. actually, i'm using 9v battery with mini pro using regulator for measuring DHT22 data and ambient light. It's working from last month and results show may work 2 month more. the reason of using 9v battery is that i have handful of them.

    Now, my question is that why initially the sleeping current is ~900 uA and then it boils down to ~120 uA after few day. why is that? . your expert answer will be appreciated.

    @funky81

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • H HarryDutch

      @funky81

      If you have a problem with your project (in this case you can't get the power consumption down to microamps) it's maybe a good idea to start with a bare minimum setup. In this case an Arduino Pro Mini, a regulated power supply and a sketch that's puts the Arduino to sleep. So for now you better focus on sleeping the Pro Mini and bring current consumption down to a couple of microamps before trying anything else.

      First you need to understand what these power savings are all about. This site (Nick Gammon) is all you need to know about power saving techniques for microprocessors (a must read):
      http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11497

      Read it all, do some of the examples yourself and above all try to understand what's happening.

      After that start with your basic setup to put the Arduino to sleep. This is how I do it:

      Arduino Pro Mini: use the 3.3v version. Remove the power led because it's useless and it's still using a couple of milliamps. I lift it off the board by using a small watchmaker screwdriver. Try to get it between the bottom side of the led and the pcb and use some force to lift it from the board. You could also cut one of the connections from the led to the board. For now don't remove the voltage regulator (more about this later).

      For the power supply I use a 3.3 volt LDO voltage regulator. In this case the HT7333-A (TO-92 package). I know there are a lot more LDO voltage regulators to choose from, but I have good results with this LDO. Search Ebay for it. Price is about $4 for 20 pieces. They have an ultra low quiescent current of only 4 microamps. According to the datasheet you need a 10 uF cap across Vin and GND and Vout and GND so use them. Find and read the datasheet to find out how to connect it.

      I’m using 3 AAA batteries (alkaline) to power the voltage regulator. Later on you can try other options (step-up, step-down, other regulators and so on) but for now stick with the setup as described above.

      Finally use the sketch below to put the Mini to sleep and check with your multimeter the current consumption. In this case I measured 38 uA with the voltage regulator in place (Voltcraft VC170 digital multimeter). After removing the voltage regulator I measured a current of only 3uA. Be aware that measuring very low currents are influenced by burden voltage (this is a nice video about burden voltage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRP98k3Rh1E).

      #include <avr/sleep.h>
      
      void setup () 
      {
        // disable ADC
        ADCSRA = 0;  
        
        set_sleep_mode (SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);  
        sleep_enable();
       
        // turn off brown-out enable in software
        MCUCR = bit (BODS) | bit (BODSE);
        MCUCR = bit (BODS); 
        sleep_cpu ();              // sleep within 3 clock cycles of above
      
      }  // end of setup
      
      void loop () { }
      
      

      Question is if it's really necessary to remove the voltage regulator to save an extra 35 uA. There is a nice battery life calculator here: http://oregonembedded.com/batterycalc.htm that will show you the difference in battery life when using 3uA or 38uA. I think a minimum period of 1 year before you have to replace/recharge your batteries is acceptable. Suppose you're using 3 AAA alkaline batteries. Capacity rating is then 1200 mAh (capacity is automatically derated by 15% to account for some self discharge.) Current consumption (without the regulator) is 0.003 mA. Current consumption during wake is 25 mA and the number of wakeups per hour is 12 (for example you take a temperature measurement every 5 minutes). Durations of wake time is 50 ms. If you use these figures with the calculator, battery life is 16 years. If you change 0.003 mA into 0.038 mA battery life will be 2.7 years. So you have to ask yourself if removing the voltage regulator (with the risk of destroying your mini which happened to me more than once) is really necessary. In this case I think it's not.

      If you really want to remove the regulator there are several ways to do this. Best way (at least for me) is first cutting the legs of the regulator with a very sharp scalpel. Be careful to cut only the legs and not the board beneath it. Then try to lift it from the board by using a needle nose pliers. Use minimal force! If you have to use too much force then try to cut the legs a little further.

      So there you have it. First try to prove to yourself that it's possible to get current consumption for an Arduino Pro Mini down to a few microamps and only then continue your adventures in MySensors land! Hope this helps.

      funky81F Offline
      funky81F Offline
      funky81
      wrote on last edited by
      #13

      @HarryDutch thanks for we'll explained information. I really really appreciate it. Thanks to you, my adventure go to land of low power start to Gammon website. Well explained also in that website.
      And finally I can make justification about what cause that give me bad power consumption. Start with plain arduino, either using led or not, finally I can dive to 4uA (thanks to you). After that, slowly but sure, I attach RF, the result still quite the same (without calling mysensor library) - few uA differences - not significant.

      Then I start with mysensor code, and guess what, it now bump to 2.2mA like my first email. At this point, I realized the one that cause high power consumption is mysensor library. Until now, I still doing test about this. Will update it here for sketches and result for every sketch.

      AWIA 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • funky81F funky81

        @HarryDutch thanks for we'll explained information. I really really appreciate it. Thanks to you, my adventure go to land of low power start to Gammon website. Well explained also in that website.
        And finally I can make justification about what cause that give me bad power consumption. Start with plain arduino, either using led or not, finally I can dive to 4uA (thanks to you). After that, slowly but sure, I attach RF, the result still quite the same (without calling mysensor library) - few uA differences - not significant.

        Then I start with mysensor code, and guess what, it now bump to 2.2mA like my first email. At this point, I realized the one that cause high power consumption is mysensor library. Until now, I still doing test about this. Will update it here for sketches and result for every sketch.

        AWIA Offline
        AWIA Offline
        AWI
        Hero Member
        wrote on last edited by
        #14

        @funky81 Interesting ... that should not happen. Does your node actually communicate with the gateway? The "normal" power consumption I have: a few seconds around 2-3 mA (starting-up) ; 2-10 seconds 27 mA (sending, searching for communication partner); until end of "gw.sleep" 20 uA (withing the limits of my equipment).

        funky81F 1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • H Offline
          H Offline
          HarryDutch
          wrote on last edited by
          #15

          @Dheeraj

          To be honest I have not the foggiest idea why the current drops that much during sleep after a few days. What I do know is that 900 and 120 µA during sleep is way too much. The point is that whatever you connect to your Arduino, you have to switch it off when it’s not needed. At least when you use batteries to power your project. Take for example the DHT22 you use. According to the datasheet it’s using 50 µA in stand-by mode and the current drain of the light sensor (LM393?) is about 800 µA. I assume that you want to take a sample every 5 minutes or so? If that’s the case you can sleep the Arduino between 2 samples and switch off the light sensor and the DHT22 sensor at the same time.

          There are a couple of ways to achieve that: using a transistor (http://jeelabs.org/2012/09/07/switching-with-a-pnp-transistor/#comments) using a MOSFET (logic level) (http://jeelabs.org/2012/09/08/switching-with-a-p-mosfet/) or using one of the I/O pins of the Arduino as a “power supply”. The last solution only works for low currents like 1.5 mA (max) for the DHT22. I don’t have the specs for the LM393 but it should be around 3 mA. There’s one important fact about using I/O pins as power pins and that is the voltage drop. When you click the first URL above you see a graph showing the relation between the pin output voltage and the source current. As you can see there is a voltage drop so that the sensor will not get the full supply voltage. Looking at the datasheet for the DHT22 the supply voltage goes from 3.3V (min) to 6V (max). If you are using a 3.3V Arduino Pro Mini it’s possible that the DHT22 is not getting enough voltage from the I/O pin to operate reliably (not tested). So in this case you can use the 5V Pro Mini. The code for the DHT22 looks something like this:

          void setup() {
            pinMode(7, OUTPUT);  // “power pin” you can use any other pin
            digitalWrite(7, LOW);  // switch power off
          }
          void loop() {
            digitalWrite(7, HIGH);// switch power on
            delay(1000); // delay is needed for the sensor to stabilize 
           // take a sample and the rest of your code
          digitalWrite(7, LOW);// switch power off
          }
          

          You can try the same for the light sensor. Maybe you can use the same pin to power both sensors (not tested). Do not exceed 20 mA per pin. So try this and see if your problem is still present. I think it's a good idea to do some tests yourself with using a transistor/MOSFET as a switch. I learned a lot by doing these tests by myself.

          D 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • AWIA AWI

            @funky81 Interesting ... that should not happen. Does your node actually communicate with the gateway? The "normal" power consumption I have: a few seconds around 2-3 mA (starting-up) ; 2-10 seconds 27 mA (sending, searching for communication partner); until end of "gw.sleep" 20 uA (withing the limits of my equipment).

            funky81F Offline
            funky81F Offline
            funky81
            wrote on last edited by funky81
            #16

            @AWI yes, it can communicate with the gateway normally.
            Following is my test result

            1. First code
            /**
             */
            #include <SPI.h>
            #include <MySensor.h>  
            #include <avr/sleep.h>
            //#include <avr/wdt.h>
            
            MySensor gw;
            
            // watchdog interrupt
            //ISR (WDT_vect) { wdt_disable();  /* disable watchdog*/ }  // end of WDT_vect
            
            void setup()  
            { 
            //  pinMode(7,OUTPUT);
            //  digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
            //    gw.begin();
              Serial.begin(115200);
              Serial.print("Setup");
            }
            
            void loop()      
            {  
            //  gw.powerUp();
              //digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
            //  gw.sendBatteryLevel(0);  
              Serial.print("Loop");  
              Serial.flush();
            //  gw.powerDown();
              //gw.sleep(30*1000);
              sleep();
            //  digitalWrite(7, LOW);
            //  sleep();
            }
            
            void sleep(){
               // disable ADC
              ADCSRA = 0;  
            
              // clear various "reset" flags
              MCUSR = 0;     
              // allow changes, disable reset
              WDTCSR = bit (WDCE) | bit (WDE);
              // set interrupt mode and an interval 
              WDTCSR = bit (WDIE) | bit (WDP3) | bit (WDP0);    // set WDIE, and 1 second delay
              wdt_reset();  // pat the dog
              
              set_sleep_mode (SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);  
              noInterrupts ();           // timed sequence follows
              sleep_enable();
             
              // turn off brown-out enable in software
              MCUCR = bit (BODS) | bit (BODSE);
              MCUCR = bit (BODS); 
              interrupts ();             // guarantees next instruction executed
              sleep_cpu ();  
              
              // cancel sleep as a precaution
              sleep_disable();
            }
            

            With this code I've got

            1. Test_Current_0 : 0.004 mA - Plain, Just Arduino (w/o LED, w/o Voltage Regulator)
            2. Test_Current_0 : 0,009 mA - Config in point 1 + Voltage Regulator (HT7333)
            3. Test_Current_0 : 1,58 mA - Config in point 2 + NRF24L01+

            Another test

            /**
             */
            #include <SPI.h>
            #include <MySensor.h>  
            #include <avr/sleep.h>
            //#include <avr/wdt.h>
            
            MySensor gw;
            
            // watchdog interrupt
            //ISR (WDT_vect) { wdt_disable();  /* disable watchdog*/ }  // end of WDT_vect
            
            void setup()  
            { 
            //  pinMode(7,OUTPUT);
            //  digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
              gw.begin();
              Serial.begin(115200);
              Serial.print("Setup");
            }
            
            void loop()      
            {  
              //gw.powerUp();
              //digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
              gw.sendBatteryLevel(0);  
              Serial.print("Loop");  
              Serial.flush();
              //gw.powerDown();
              gw.sleep(30*1000);
              //sleep();
            //  digitalWrite(7, LOW);
            //  sleep();
            }
            
            void sleep(){
               // disable ADC
              ADCSRA = 0;  
            
              // clear various "reset" flags
              MCUSR = 0;     
              // allow changes, disable reset
              WDTCSR = bit (WDCE) | bit (WDE);
              // set interrupt mode and an interval 
              WDTCSR = bit (WDIE) | bit (WDP3) | bit (WDP0);    // set WDIE, and 1 second delay
              wdt_reset();  // pat the dog
              
              set_sleep_mode (SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);  
              noInterrupts ();           // timed sequence follows
              sleep_enable();
             
              // turn off brown-out enable in software
              MCUCR = bit (BODS) | bit (BODSE);
              MCUCR = bit (BODS); 
              interrupts ();             // guarantees next instruction executed
              sleep_cpu ();  
              
              // cancel sleep as a precaution
              sleep_disable();
            }
            

            Config is the same with no 3 (above), but the power consumption in sleep I take around 2.37 mA.

            Is it maybe I've got bad NRF24L01+ ?

            ----- Updated
            It seems my suspicion, it seems the cause of high power consumption is NRF24L01+ radio. I've checked all of my radio, it appears that 2 of 9 seems fake / bad condition.

            Thanks for contribution of @HarryDutch @AWI @Dheeraj @tbowmo @GuyP and others, so now I can play with other level of MySensor.

            Thanks

            I 1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • H HarryDutch

              @Dheeraj

              To be honest I have not the foggiest idea why the current drops that much during sleep after a few days. What I do know is that 900 and 120 µA during sleep is way too much. The point is that whatever you connect to your Arduino, you have to switch it off when it’s not needed. At least when you use batteries to power your project. Take for example the DHT22 you use. According to the datasheet it’s using 50 µA in stand-by mode and the current drain of the light sensor (LM393?) is about 800 µA. I assume that you want to take a sample every 5 minutes or so? If that’s the case you can sleep the Arduino between 2 samples and switch off the light sensor and the DHT22 sensor at the same time.

              There are a couple of ways to achieve that: using a transistor (http://jeelabs.org/2012/09/07/switching-with-a-pnp-transistor/#comments) using a MOSFET (logic level) (http://jeelabs.org/2012/09/08/switching-with-a-p-mosfet/) or using one of the I/O pins of the Arduino as a “power supply”. The last solution only works for low currents like 1.5 mA (max) for the DHT22. I don’t have the specs for the LM393 but it should be around 3 mA. There’s one important fact about using I/O pins as power pins and that is the voltage drop. When you click the first URL above you see a graph showing the relation between the pin output voltage and the source current. As you can see there is a voltage drop so that the sensor will not get the full supply voltage. Looking at the datasheet for the DHT22 the supply voltage goes from 3.3V (min) to 6V (max). If you are using a 3.3V Arduino Pro Mini it’s possible that the DHT22 is not getting enough voltage from the I/O pin to operate reliably (not tested). So in this case you can use the 5V Pro Mini. The code for the DHT22 looks something like this:

              void setup() {
                pinMode(7, OUTPUT);  // “power pin” you can use any other pin
                digitalWrite(7, LOW);  // switch power off
              }
              void loop() {
                digitalWrite(7, HIGH);// switch power on
                delay(1000); // delay is needed for the sensor to stabilize 
               // take a sample and the rest of your code
              digitalWrite(7, LOW);// switch power off
              }
              

              You can try the same for the light sensor. Maybe you can use the same pin to power both sensors (not tested). Do not exceed 20 mA per pin. So try this and see if your problem is still present. I think it's a good idea to do some tests yourself with using a transistor/MOSFET as a switch. I learned a lot by doing these tests by myself.

              D Offline
              D Offline
              Dheeraj
              Plugin Developer
              wrote on last edited by
              #17

              @HarryDutch

              thanks Harry, definitely will try your suggestion of I/O pins as power supply.

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • funky81F funky81

                @AWI yes, it can communicate with the gateway normally.
                Following is my test result

                1. First code
                /**
                 */
                #include <SPI.h>
                #include <MySensor.h>  
                #include <avr/sleep.h>
                //#include <avr/wdt.h>
                
                MySensor gw;
                
                // watchdog interrupt
                //ISR (WDT_vect) { wdt_disable();  /* disable watchdog*/ }  // end of WDT_vect
                
                void setup()  
                { 
                //  pinMode(7,OUTPUT);
                //  digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
                //    gw.begin();
                  Serial.begin(115200);
                  Serial.print("Setup");
                }
                
                void loop()      
                {  
                //  gw.powerUp();
                  //digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
                //  gw.sendBatteryLevel(0);  
                  Serial.print("Loop");  
                  Serial.flush();
                //  gw.powerDown();
                  //gw.sleep(30*1000);
                  sleep();
                //  digitalWrite(7, LOW);
                //  sleep();
                }
                
                void sleep(){
                   // disable ADC
                  ADCSRA = 0;  
                
                  // clear various "reset" flags
                  MCUSR = 0;     
                  // allow changes, disable reset
                  WDTCSR = bit (WDCE) | bit (WDE);
                  // set interrupt mode and an interval 
                  WDTCSR = bit (WDIE) | bit (WDP3) | bit (WDP0);    // set WDIE, and 1 second delay
                  wdt_reset();  // pat the dog
                  
                  set_sleep_mode (SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);  
                  noInterrupts ();           // timed sequence follows
                  sleep_enable();
                 
                  // turn off brown-out enable in software
                  MCUCR = bit (BODS) | bit (BODSE);
                  MCUCR = bit (BODS); 
                  interrupts ();             // guarantees next instruction executed
                  sleep_cpu ();  
                  
                  // cancel sleep as a precaution
                  sleep_disable();
                }
                

                With this code I've got

                1. Test_Current_0 : 0.004 mA - Plain, Just Arduino (w/o LED, w/o Voltage Regulator)
                2. Test_Current_0 : 0,009 mA - Config in point 1 + Voltage Regulator (HT7333)
                3. Test_Current_0 : 1,58 mA - Config in point 2 + NRF24L01+

                Another test

                /**
                 */
                #include <SPI.h>
                #include <MySensor.h>  
                #include <avr/sleep.h>
                //#include <avr/wdt.h>
                
                MySensor gw;
                
                // watchdog interrupt
                //ISR (WDT_vect) { wdt_disable();  /* disable watchdog*/ }  // end of WDT_vect
                
                void setup()  
                { 
                //  pinMode(7,OUTPUT);
                //  digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
                  gw.begin();
                  Serial.begin(115200);
                  Serial.print("Setup");
                }
                
                void loop()      
                {  
                  //gw.powerUp();
                  //digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
                  gw.sendBatteryLevel(0);  
                  Serial.print("Loop");  
                  Serial.flush();
                  //gw.powerDown();
                  gw.sleep(30*1000);
                  //sleep();
                //  digitalWrite(7, LOW);
                //  sleep();
                }
                
                void sleep(){
                   // disable ADC
                  ADCSRA = 0;  
                
                  // clear various "reset" flags
                  MCUSR = 0;     
                  // allow changes, disable reset
                  WDTCSR = bit (WDCE) | bit (WDE);
                  // set interrupt mode and an interval 
                  WDTCSR = bit (WDIE) | bit (WDP3) | bit (WDP0);    // set WDIE, and 1 second delay
                  wdt_reset();  // pat the dog
                  
                  set_sleep_mode (SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);  
                  noInterrupts ();           // timed sequence follows
                  sleep_enable();
                 
                  // turn off brown-out enable in software
                  MCUCR = bit (BODS) | bit (BODSE);
                  MCUCR = bit (BODS); 
                  interrupts ();             // guarantees next instruction executed
                  sleep_cpu ();  
                  
                  // cancel sleep as a precaution
                  sleep_disable();
                }
                

                Config is the same with no 3 (above), but the power consumption in sleep I take around 2.37 mA.

                Is it maybe I've got bad NRF24L01+ ?

                ----- Updated
                It seems my suspicion, it seems the cause of high power consumption is NRF24L01+ radio. I've checked all of my radio, it appears that 2 of 9 seems fake / bad condition.

                Thanks for contribution of @HarryDutch @AWI @Dheeraj @tbowmo @GuyP and others, so now I can play with other level of MySensor.

                Thanks

                I Offline
                I Offline
                iask
                wrote on last edited by iask
                #18

                @funky81 What power consumption did you end up with when in sleep mode with your NRFXXXXX connected? I am using the door/window sensor sample, when close it consumes 11.5 uA and when open it consumes 8.5uA (I wish that could be the other way around since the window will be closed most of the time).

                funky81F 1 Reply Last reply
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                • I iask

                  @funky81 What power consumption did you end up with when in sleep mode with your NRFXXXXX connected? I am using the door/window sensor sample, when close it consumes 11.5 uA and when open it consumes 8.5uA (I wish that could be the other way around since the window will be closed most of the time).

                  funky81F Offline
                  funky81F Offline
                  funky81
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #19

                  @iask I haven't upload my latest door sketch to my node yet. But if I'm using above sketch, idle 4uA and around 18mA while transfer.

                  Do you have any issues like me before?

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                  • funky81F funky81

                    @iask I haven't upload my latest door sketch to my node yet. But if I'm using above sketch, idle 4uA and around 18mA while transfer.

                    Do you have any issues like me before?

                    I Offline
                    I Offline
                    iask
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #20

                    @funky81 Well I am not sure what else to try to get lower than 11.5uA. If you are getting 4uA then it's possible. I will have to try your sleep method

                    void sleep(){
                       // disable ADC
                      ADCSRA = 0;  
                    
                      // clear various "reset" flags
                      MCUSR = 0;     
                      // allow changes, disable reset
                      WDTCSR = bit (WDCE) | bit (WDE);
                      // set interrupt mode and an interval 
                      WDTCSR = bit (WDIE) | bit (WDP3) | bit (WDP0);    // set WDIE, and 1 second delay
                      wdt_reset();  // pat the dog
                      
                      set_sleep_mode (SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);  
                      noInterrupts ();           // timed sequence follows
                      sleep_enable();
                     
                      // turn off brown-out enable in software
                      MCUCR = bit (BODS) | bit (BODSE);
                      MCUCR = bit (BODS); 
                      interrupts ();             // guarantees next instruction executed
                      sleep_cpu ();  
                      
                      // cancel sleep as a precaution
                      sleep_disable();
                    }
                    

                    currently I am using

                    gw.sleep(INTERRUPT,CHANGE, 0);
                    
                    funky81F 1 Reply Last reply
                    1
                    • I iask

                      @funky81 Well I am not sure what else to try to get lower than 11.5uA. If you are getting 4uA then it's possible. I will have to try your sleep method

                      void sleep(){
                         // disable ADC
                        ADCSRA = 0;  
                      
                        // clear various "reset" flags
                        MCUSR = 0;     
                        // allow changes, disable reset
                        WDTCSR = bit (WDCE) | bit (WDE);
                        // set interrupt mode and an interval 
                        WDTCSR = bit (WDIE) | bit (WDP3) | bit (WDP0);    // set WDIE, and 1 second delay
                        wdt_reset();  // pat the dog
                        
                        set_sleep_mode (SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);  
                        noInterrupts ();           // timed sequence follows
                        sleep_enable();
                       
                        // turn off brown-out enable in software
                        MCUCR = bit (BODS) | bit (BODSE);
                        MCUCR = bit (BODS); 
                        interrupts ();             // guarantees next instruction executed
                        sleep_cpu ();  
                        
                        // cancel sleep as a precaution
                        sleep_disable();
                      }
                      

                      currently I am using

                      gw.sleep(INTERRUPT,CHANGE, 0);
                      
                      funky81F Offline
                      funky81F Offline
                      funky81
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #21

                      @iask how is the result?

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                      • T Offline
                        T Offline
                        Tibus
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #22

                        I use the @funky81 's sleep method but the nrf doesn't go to sleep so I draw 14ma. When I use the gw.sleep method, I draw +-26ua. Is it possible to go below? (without the nrf, my own pcb with atmega328 go to 5ua in sleep mode with your function (doesn't work with gw.sleep because it's a test without the nrf ;D)

                        funky81F 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • T Tibus

                          I use the @funky81 's sleep method but the nrf doesn't go to sleep so I draw 14ma. When I use the gw.sleep method, I draw +-26ua. Is it possible to go below? (without the nrf, my own pcb with atmega328 go to 5ua in sleep mode with your function (doesn't work with gw.sleep because it's a test without the nrf ;D)

                          funky81F Offline
                          funky81F Offline
                          funky81
                          wrote on last edited by funky81
                          #23

                          @Tibus do you have other nrf to try? I'm affraid you're using fake nrf.
                          30% of my nrf (out of 10), are fake...

                          one more thing, sleep method in above post dont turn off nrf radio while sleep.
                          you can try gw.sleep() if you want turn off nrf radio while sleep (MyGateway gw)

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                            T Offline
                            Tibus
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #24

                            yes, when I use de gw.sleep it works great but I can't go lower than 26ua+-. My test with your function draw 14ma because the nrf doesn't go to sleep... But is there a method to go lower than 26ua with the nrf? I'm already verry happy of the 26ua but if I can go lower, it would be even better ;D
                            Do you things it's because I use fake nrf? where can i bought real nrf? The one I use is from electrodragon.

                            funky81F 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • T Tibus

                              yes, when I use de gw.sleep it works great but I can't go lower than 26ua+-. My test with your function draw 14ma because the nrf doesn't go to sleep... But is there a method to go lower than 26ua with the nrf? I'm already verry happy of the 26ua but if I can go lower, it would be even better ;D
                              Do you things it's because I use fake nrf? where can i bought real nrf? The one I use is from electrodragon.

                              funky81F Offline
                              funky81F Offline
                              funky81
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #25

                              @Tibus my suggestion is that try other nrf radio.
                              Right now I can low as 10uA while sleeping

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                                T Offline
                                Tibus
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #26

                                ok thanks

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                                  E Offline
                                  ericvdb
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #27

                                  What do you guys use to measure such low currents?

                                  funky81F 1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • E ericvdb

                                    What do you guys use to measure such low currents?

                                    funky81F Offline
                                    funky81F Offline
                                    funky81
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #28

                                    Hi @ericvdb , you can use multi tester like in this link....

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                                    • B Offline
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                                      brolly759
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #29

                                      This is an old thread but Tibus, the problem I had was exactly yours with 26uA. I had to downgrade my Arduino software to 1.0.6 . Then I got normal numbers 3uA.

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