110v-230v AC to Mysensors PCB board

[Cliff Karlsson]

I have several lamps where I have done something similar. The bulbs are wireless wemo-bulbs and I have connected the wires behind the lampswitch so that the bulbs are always powered. The I have placed a battery powered arduino witch is connected to the wall switch pin3-gnd.
Every time I flip the switch the arduino wakes up and the controller sends a toggle command using REST

[m26872]

@Cliff-Karlsson said:

I don't know if this has been answered already. But I have some major problems soldering the thermal fuse to the board. It always blows. Any tips ?

Raise the temperature of your soldering iron, and you'll be able to do it quicker with less propagating heat. You could also add some extra bend and length to the fuse legs.

[Sefi Ninio]

@Sefi-Ninio said:

Hi, @toabhishekverma
Well, your suggestion might work, I am not sure a switch that is meant to be connected to 220v mains can be connected to the gpio pin.

I think, adding an additional relay to the pcb and allowing them both to behave like a 3way switch will allow for maximum flexibility.

1. It could control 2 separate lamps
2. It could behave like 2 3-way switches
3. It could behave like a single 4-way switch

I would have done it myself, but I have no clue 😀

@aproxx , what do you think about adding another relay (for a total of 2 on board) and making them 3-way?

[Cliff Karlsson]

Another question about the thermal fuse. I might be wrong on this, but I guess its purpose is to break the power if the HLK overheats. But If placed in the intended place would not the PCB need to be on fire to have the thermal fuse be warmed up to 73 deg C?

[HenryWhite]

@Cliff-Karlsson said:

Another question about the thermal fuse. I might be wrong on this, but I guess its purpose is to break the power if the HLK overheats. But If placed in the intended place would not the PCB need to be on fire to have the thermal fuse be warmed up to 73 deg C?

I guess you're supposed to glue the thermal fuse to the hlk and run wires from this point to the designated footprint of the fuse on the pcb.

[Sefi Ninio]

@Sefi-Ninio said:

@Sefi-Ninio said:

Hi, @toabhishekverma
Well, your suggestion might work, I am not sure a switch that is meant to be connected to 220v mains can be connected to the gpio pin.

I think, adding an additional relay to the pcb and allowing them both to behave like a 3way switch will allow for maximum flexibility.

1. It could control 2 separate lamps
2. It could behave like 2 3-way switches
3. It could behave like a single 4-way switch

I would have done it myself, but I have no clue 😀

@aproxx , what do you think about adding another relay (for a total of 2 on board) and making them 3-way?

OK Guys,
I've decided to try and use the original V3.2.3 plans and add another relay to them (with your permission, @aproxx).

The board will have to be a bit bigger, I will have to make room for another relay along side the existing one, and I will have to also make room for its connectors.
Not a big problem, I think, as it is already very well designed and has a small footprint, but still.

I need a bit of help from you guys, though - I am a complete noob when it comes to the wiring and electricity. I can handle the coding, no problem, but the electricity is very new to me.

I am assuming that besides adding the second relay, no other components need to be added - no resistors, capacitors, varistors etc.
Is my assumption correct?

Thanks!

[HenryWhite]

@Sefi-Ninio said:

I am assuming that besides adding the second relay, no other components need to be added - no resistors, capacitors, varistors etc.
Is my assumption correct?

Thanks!

You need at least a second transistor.

[vil1driver]

maybe a fuse to protect relay output.. ?
and plz add a second switch, to control an other node or anything..

[Sefi Ninio]

So basically, I should duplicate the current circuit for the new relay...

[Jan Gatzke]

I am facing a little problem with the fuses. I am using these:

230V AC: http://de.aliexpress.com/item/TRF250-300U-line-resettable-fuses-0-3A-300MA-250V-Tyco/32368739339.html?detailNewVersion=2

5V DC: http://www.ebay.de/itm/321697892220?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

When I connect the pcb to power the LED on the Arduino flashes and then the 500 mA Fuse in the 5V circuit dies. I am now using the 300 mA resetable Fuse for the 5V part as well, which seems to work without problems. How can it be, that the 500 mA fuse dies and the 300 mA fuse does not?

[Tmaster]

Jan Gatzke; chinese brand electronics... who knows what can happens....

i ordered all stuff needed to make my pcb with maximun 4x4cms to use inside wall switches (like zwave fibaro modules). i will try to reduce that board by not using connectors and solder the cables directly etc..

Something that i don't know is why use a varistor and fuse on secundary??? arduino already have an polyfuse PPTC Resetable fuse, and someting bad that happens with nrf24 will burn the 3.3V regulator.. its that varistor and fuse realy needed?

[scropion86]

@aproxx hello. can i know how you rendered your PCB layout to 3D , if any tutorial it can guide me
to achieve that .

thanks

[aproxx]

Wow, this thread has been really active in the past few months! I'm sorry for my absence, but I kind of got dragged into other projects.. :)

A new version of the board will be shared soon! Compared to the current board following changes have been made:

• A second solid state relay has been added. This 2nd relay is optional, so if only 1 device needs to be controlled just 1 relay needs to be installed and everything will still work fine.
• The board size has been increased just a little bit to fit this 2nd relay. Size is still 5x5cm only.
• Some components have been moved in order to make it easier to solder them (This was a bit tricky on version 3.2.3 because some components were really close to each other).
• Traces between the relays and the connectors are now 'open air'. So there is no mask on top of the traces. This way it is possible to reinforce the traces. By doing this it shouldn't be any problem to connect a 2A load to the board.
• A temperature cut-off has been added to the board.
• The varistor for the low voltage circuit has been removed because it's not really needed anymore with all the extra security measures on the high voltage side of the board.

Currently this board is still on it's way from China, but as soon as I've received this board I'll share all the documentation and everything else which is needed on this forum! This will probably happen in 3-5 weeks from now, so stay tuned! ;)

[hek]

Great @approx, please consider to create it as new project over at openhardware.io, much easier to keep track of things (and a forum thread will be created automatically).

[aproxx]

@hek That sounds as a great idea. I'll share it on OpenHardware as soon as I have confirmed that everything works as expected!

[Tmaster]

@aproxx said:

• The varistor for the low voltage circuit has been removed because it's not really needed anymore with all the extra security measures on the high voltage side of the board.

exacly what i was talking about!:+1:

[vil1driver]

bad news :-/ then why have you fuse at home ? 400 000 V has security measures, why add more security ? it's juste our life, childs life !!
do you know what is a "security transformer" ? the hlk-pm01 isn't one.

[aproxx]

@vil1driver said:

bad news :-/ then why have you fuse at home ? 400 000 V has security measures, why add more security ? it's juste our life, childs life !!
do you know what is a "security transformer" ? the hlk-pm01 isn't one.

It's not that I think that security isn't important, but I believe that no security on the low voltage side is safer than having a false sense of security. As I've read above, lots of the low voltage fuses were not reliable. And that's one reason I dropped it in the newer design.

All that aside: I never ever EVER intend to mount these boards on locations people can reach (unless they intend to). Everything is placed safely behind a light switch or in a completely closed plastic box. The only thing that COULD be touched is the wires to the switch itself (And even those will be out of reach if the lid of the switch is on). But since these switches are only connected to ground and a digital input, those wires don't do any harm.

But yes, I do know what a 'security transformer' is. And no, I completely agree the HLK-PM01 itself isn't a secure transformer. But considering the price, the added fuses and temp cutoffs, and the plan to mount these in a safe location, I believe the HLK-PM01 does the job well. ;)

[vil1driver]

thanks for your answer,

[Tmaster]

Secure? ... A varistor and a 8v fuse on secundary line! ...
Never touch devices when powered to mains. A simple light bulb that you can touch on metal part, a tablet charger that can blow up... just don't touch the module and put it inside wall (not wood) or circuit case.