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  3. Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

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  • DidiD Didi

    @petewill said:

    @Moshe-Livne @ServiceXp Cool, thanks! By testing, what sort of testing could I do to know it's safe?

    I have ordered 5 of them and i will test them at full 600 ma for 4 weeks in a flush box and protocoll data.I think if they don´t smoke we can use them on pcb

    RJ_MakeR Offline
    RJ_MakeR Offline
    RJ_Make
    Hero Member
    wrote on last edited by
    #44

    @Didi Would you mind pushing one to 1 amp for a while., and then 1.5 if possible. Just want to make sure the OCP activates before it goes up in smoke..

    RJ_Make

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    • DidiD Didi

      @petewill said:

      @Moshe-Livne @ServiceXp Cool, thanks! By testing, what sort of testing could I do to know it's safe?

      I have ordered 5 of them and i will test them at full 600 ma for 4 weeks in a flush box and protocoll data.I think if they don´t smoke we can use them on pcb

      Moshe LivneM Offline
      Moshe LivneM Offline
      Moshe Livne
      Hero Member
      wrote on last edited by
      #45

      @Didi Would you mind testing the meanwell ones as well? I would have but being on a small island at the end of the world is a problem sometimes. Don't mind buying a few for you for testing - I really would like to have both a reliable wall charger and a power supply I could use in a box without too much worry and the meanwell looks so promising....

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      • Moshe LivneM Moshe Livne

        @tbowmo @petewill @didi @ServiceXp I think I found the perfect one!!!!
        http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2155823_-1
        http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/GS05U-USB-spec-33533.pdf

        it is made by meanwell, so not flimsy. has all protections. 8$ at jameco and mouser and I am sure my meanwell supplier on aliexpress can get it for me at half price... it is a shame that they do not sell the inside separately but nothing is perfect.
        the only problem might be breaking it apart. Meanwell really make sturdy enclosures.
        let me know what you think...

        petewillP Offline
        petewillP Offline
        petewill
        Admin
        wrote on last edited by
        #46

        @Moshe-Livne said:

        I am sure my meanwell supplier on aliexpress can get it for me at half price...

        Do you have a link for this? I just tried searching and I couldn't find these one ebay or aliexpress.

        My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

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        • rvendrameR Offline
          rvendrameR Offline
          rvendrame
          Hero Member
          wrote on last edited by
          #47

          Adding my two cents, I have dissected two devices (one zwave from GE and one unbranded, non zwave) and both used a capacitor-resistor power supply.

          Very dangerous, as it is "transformerless" --- In other hand, cheap and small footprint. By using X2 capacitors the risk is a bit lower. It is in my list for prototype/testing over next weeks.

          Home Assistant / Vera Plus UI7
          ESP8266 GW + mySensors 2.3.2
          Alexa / Google Home

          petewillP Moshe LivneM 2 Replies Last reply
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          • sundberg84S Offline
            sundberg84S Offline
            sundberg84
            Hardware Contributor
            wrote on last edited by
            #48

            @rvendrame So did i on a 433mhz relay sold quite common here... it looked as this capacitor-resistor power supply as well.

            Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
            RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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            • rvendrameR rvendrame

              Adding my two cents, I have dissected two devices (one zwave from GE and one unbranded, non zwave) and both used a capacitor-resistor power supply.

              Very dangerous, as it is "transformerless" --- In other hand, cheap and small footprint. By using X2 capacitors the risk is a bit lower. It is in my list for prototype/testing over next weeks.

              petewillP Offline
              petewillP Offline
              petewill
              Admin
              wrote on last edited by
              #49

              @rvendrame said:

              Adding my two cents, I have dissected two devices (one zwave from GE and one unbranded, non zwave) and both used a capacitor-resistor power supply.

              Very dangerous, as it is "transformerless" --- In other hand, cheap and small footprint. By using X2 capacitors the risk is a bit lower. It is in my list for prototype/testing over next weeks.

              Interesting. Thanks for posting. I have very limited knowledge in this area so I'm learning a lot. I'm excited to get a good solution for this. It will be very useful for many things.

              My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

              1 Reply Last reply
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              • rvendrameR rvendrame

                Adding my two cents, I have dissected two devices (one zwave from GE and one unbranded, non zwave) and both used a capacitor-resistor power supply.

                Very dangerous, as it is "transformerless" --- In other hand, cheap and small footprint. By using X2 capacitors the risk is a bit lower. It is in my list for prototype/testing over next weeks.

                Moshe LivneM Offline
                Moshe LivneM Offline
                Moshe Livne
                Hero Member
                wrote on last edited by Moshe Livne
                #50

                @rvendrame very interesting. The link mention only 100ma at most but I guess that they are using SSRs so don't face the problems we have with our relays. I wonder why there is no "off the shelf" unit like that. I would be a bit scared to construct something like that.

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                • RJ_MakeR RJ_Make

                  @ServiceXp

                  Testing as in:

                  Ripple / Noise (if you don't have a scope just make sure the sensor does lock up on long run times at max load.)
                  Measure the heat it generates during full load (find something that can draw 1 amp).
                  Check to see if you can even fit it and the other components inside of a box that already has wire/switch run to it.

                  Personally, I would want to crack one of these open and see how it was designed. Making sure it's Ok, the specs look good on it, but you never know....

                  If the testing looks good, I would not have a problem using it (I would try and keep it in it's case if at all possible, or have one made that will house everything). I do think you are going to need a pretty deep box to fit it all.

                  We really need a MySensors Micro solution here, but then there is the liability.....

                  Moshe LivneM Offline
                  Moshe LivneM Offline
                  Moshe Livne
                  Hero Member
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #51

                  @ServiceXp @petewill @Didi here is another one! http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/606238.pdf

                  this one is reasonably smallish, has all the required protections. They are so well hidden....

                  DidiD 1 Reply Last reply
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                  • Moshe LivneM Moshe Livne

                    @ServiceXp @petewill @Didi here is another one! http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/606238.pdf

                    this one is reasonably smallish, has all the required protections. They are so well hidden....

                    DidiD Offline
                    DidiD Offline
                    Didi
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #52

                    @Moshe-Livne said:

                    @ServiceXp @petewill @Didi here is another one!

                    And pice is ok

                    Found one at ebay:
                    http://www.ebay.de/itm/5V-550mA-switching-power-supply-module-MYRRA-47122-PCB-mount-/301663807573?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item463c906855

                    if (knowledge == 0) { use BRAIN; use GOOGLE;use SEARCH; } else {make POST;}

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                    • rvendrameR Offline
                      rvendrameR Offline
                      rvendrame
                      Hero Member
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #53

                      @Moshe-Livne , I believe there is no off the shell as if you dig in the details, you will see that the impedance of the consuming circuit ( arduino + radio + relay in our case) direct influence the overall performance of the capacitor/resistor model.

                      Usually triacs consume less than relay (something between 10 and 50mA), and you can also control the bright of a light or speed of a motor, instead just turn them on or off.

                      The downside, you need a snubber circuit as well as a zero-cross detection circuit. The snubber is also recomended for relays, though.

                      So at the end you don't reduce the footprint or costs --- But triacs tend to last longer than relays, as no mechanical commutation occurs.

                      Home Assistant / Vera Plus UI7
                      ESP8266 GW + mySensors 2.3.2
                      Alexa / Google Home

                      DrJeffD 1 Reply Last reply
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                      • rvendrameR rvendrame

                        @Moshe-Livne , I believe there is no off the shell as if you dig in the details, you will see that the impedance of the consuming circuit ( arduino + radio + relay in our case) direct influence the overall performance of the capacitor/resistor model.

                        Usually triacs consume less than relay (something between 10 and 50mA), and you can also control the bright of a light or speed of a motor, instead just turn them on or off.

                        The downside, you need a snubber circuit as well as a zero-cross detection circuit. The snubber is also recomended for relays, though.

                        So at the end you don't reduce the footprint or costs --- But triacs tend to last longer than relays, as no mechanical commutation occurs.

                        DrJeffD Offline
                        DrJeffD Offline
                        DrJeff
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #54

                        @rvendrame I'm right with you on all of this have been trying to do this for a couple months with no time right now. Actually it has been longer I was originally building all this for another system using XBees and then found it better to use esp8266 then said better yet use Mysensors so here we are! Transformer less is key at least I think so! Only problem no off the self builds.

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                        • scalzS Offline
                          scalzS Offline
                          scalz
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #55

                          Hi,

                          I found an application notes from enocean regarding power supplies design. I think it could be helpful, and good to remember, so I share the link.
                          http://www.enocean.com/fileadmin/redaktion/pdf/app_notes/AN101_POWER_SUPPLY_LAYOUT_2015.pdf

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                          • rvendrameR Offline
                            rvendrameR Offline
                            rvendrame
                            Hero Member
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #56

                            I'm currently studying this doc STEVAL-ILL004V1 AN2263 AppNote .pdf. I should prototype something over next week if family allows.

                            Home Assistant / Vera Plus UI7
                            ESP8266 GW + mySensors 2.3.2
                            Alexa / Google Home

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                            • scalzS Offline
                              scalzS Offline
                              scalz
                              Hardware Contributor
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #57

                              Hi. interesting link, I will read it when I will have time. It looks like u2008 or u2010 which are obsolete now (I have some in stock, cheap on aliexpress) but I didn't know your ref. thanks

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                              • rvendrameR Offline
                                rvendrameR Offline
                                rvendrame
                                Hero Member
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #58

                                @scalz, I'm trying to porting the capacitor-resistor power supply concept from that doc to our mySensor world. Specially for 1-wire dimmer, as described in chapter 3.1.

                                Home Assistant / Vera Plus UI7
                                ESP8266 GW + mySensors 2.3.2
                                Alexa / Google Home

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                                • scalzS Offline
                                  scalzS Offline
                                  scalz
                                  Hardware Contributor
                                  wrote on last edited by scalz
                                  #59

                                  @rvendrame : I tried something similar once. I didn't remember exactly how all was connected but with triac, in one wire, even if I was not toggling anything, I had brown reset at start (maybe I could find my schem). With two wire, I had no problem but a little flickering (zero cross detection done by arduino). Maybe it was that which restarted. Next, I did another test with mosfet pwm, in one wire config again. This time, it started ok, and as I was increasing pwm it restarted for pwm = 170-200 (I don't remember exactly) .But I jumped onto another project I am finishing.
                                  I will follow your results with interest as your link is interesting , and at my home it is one wire too.

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                                  • rvendrameR Offline
                                    rvendrameR Offline
                                    rvendrame
                                    Hero Member
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #60

                                    @scalz, with the 1-wire circuit , the maximum you can reach is like 80% - 90 % of light bright, as you need to keep the triac/mosfet "off" for a short period, in order to recharge the PSU capacitor. Maybe that explained why it re-started on your test at PWM 170-200. (and would also confirm that it works 'as designed', good to know)

                                    Home Assistant / Vera Plus UI7
                                    ESP8266 GW + mySensors 2.3.2
                                    Alexa / Google Home

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                                    • T Offline
                                      T Offline
                                      ThinkPad
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #61

                                      I would be careful when stripping cheap USB-powersupplies and tucking them into a box in the wall. Read this page: http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/indexUSB UK.html and this page: http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/usbPowerSupplyTest UK.html to see how badly constructed some of these powersupplies are.

                                      He also explains how he is testing those powersupplies: http://lygte-info.dk/info/usbPowerSupplyTestHow UK.html
                                      Very informative i must say.

                                      Moshe LivneM petewillP SparkmanS DidiD 4 Replies Last reply
                                      2
                                      • T ThinkPad

                                        I would be careful when stripping cheap USB-powersupplies and tucking them into a box in the wall. Read this page: http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/indexUSB UK.html and this page: http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/usbPowerSupplyTest UK.html to see how badly constructed some of these powersupplies are.

                                        He also explains how he is testing those powersupplies: http://lygte-info.dk/info/usbPowerSupplyTestHow UK.html
                                        Very informative i must say.

                                        Moshe LivneM Offline
                                        Moshe LivneM Offline
                                        Moshe Livne
                                        Hero Member
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #62

                                        @ThinkPad Fascinating read.... If you read through the thread you will see that we actually go to the same conclusion. The meanwell charger should be good - they are respectable company and it has the 3 safeties we were looking for. It is not a very common charger - I have never seen it being sold before.

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                                        • T ThinkPad

                                          I would be careful when stripping cheap USB-powersupplies and tucking them into a box in the wall. Read this page: http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/indexUSB UK.html and this page: http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/usbPowerSupplyTest UK.html to see how badly constructed some of these powersupplies are.

                                          He also explains how he is testing those powersupplies: http://lygte-info.dk/info/usbPowerSupplyTestHow UK.html
                                          Very informative i must say.

                                          petewillP Offline
                                          petewillP Offline
                                          petewill
                                          Admin
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #63

                                          @ThinkPad Thanks for posting. It's good to see how the tests are performed. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment or skill to know how to test. Hopefully we will be able to find a safe one that we can all use.

                                          @Moshe-Livne have you been able to find the meanwell chargers from anywhere besides jameco?

                                          My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

                                          YveauxY Moshe LivneM 2 Replies Last reply
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