My Slim 2AA Battery Node

[m26872]

@Tomasz-Pazio Sounds more like some issue with the IDE and boards file than hw and fuses/bootloader. Have you tried different IDE versions?

[meddie]

@ahmedadelhosni
what is it on the door? is that a plastic wrap?

[ahmedadelhosni]

@meddie

The sensor is drawn by black rectangle. This is adhesive tape like this : http://2.imimg.com/data2/YX/UQ/MY-3910304/sale-bopp-clarity-adhesive-tape-250x250.jpg

The other red rectangle on the door was old tape I didn't remove. Actually before getting my boards I used a bread board and a battery for testing, so I needed a tape for support and keeping it in place :)

[meddie]

:thumbsup:

[Tomasz Pazio]

@m26872 thanks for advice, bootloader burned on IDE 1.0.x and after that, sketches are uploaded properly on 1.6.x.

One more question, how it should report battery state? I can not see any variable created for this in Vera.

[m26872]

@Tomasz-Pazio Great! If I remember Vera correct, a variable should be created automaticly upon first message if you use the sendbatterylevel() fuction.

[Cliff Karlsson]

anyone care to write down the exact precedure of how to burn a new bootloader to the atmel chip? what files goes to what folders and so on.

[GertSanders]

@Cliff-Karlsson I'm experimenting with several versions of Optiboot (various upload and upload combinations) for my board. Once that is done, I will add it to the documentation of my board. I'm extending the sketch found here:

http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11635

[m26872]

@Cliff-Karlsson Let's continue your bootloader trouble discussion in it's own thread:
http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2975/how-do-i-burn-a-bootloader-to-an-328p-with-uno-bootloader-preinstalled/8

[rsachoc]

OK, so finally I have received most of the parts I need to build a few of these sensors. I want to go with a temp sensor at first, the si7021. So I wanted to check what "other bits" I need (newb alert).

From there, do I need both 1 and 2? If so, what are these?

From here, what are 3 and 4? Do I need both?

Also, depending on the answers above, do I solder to exactly the same pins? Have I missed anything?

Thanks

[Cliff Karlsson]

Ok, finaly succeded in burning the bootloader. Now comes next part. Fuses and lockbits, I have no idea what this means but is this what I need to do?

avrdude -C ../etc/avrdude.conf -c usbasp -B5 -p ATmega328P -U lfuse:w:0x62:m -U hfuse:w:0xDE:m -U efuse:w:0x07:m -U lock:w:0x2F:m

[meddie]

oh, yes! And you have to be carefully with them, because to set the fuses wrong, can destroy your µcontroller

[meddie]

if you look to message Nr 179 you will find my bootloader and the correct fuses for this. But its a 1MHz Bootloader and the fuses too.
Dont use it if you want to run it at 8 MHz.

[bjacobse]

Web-based fuse calculator
A different way of evaluating fuses is presented at this web page:
http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc

At the bottom I inserted your fuses.
Translation:
Divide by8-> if your mcy board uses 8Mhz, then you now use 1Mhz Clock (Good this enables that you now can use a lower voltage down to 1,9V)
SPI is enabled, then you can program your mcu with FTDI cable
BOD mcu will not power down mcu when you have a low voltage (So you can use down to 1,9V)
I write 1,9Volt since this is the lowest voltage your NRF24L01+ can use for operation

[Cliff Karlsson]

Sorry for asking the same questions over and over but I have just used the files linked at the top of this thread.

This is the bootloader that I used:

atmega328_1a.hex (Optiboot for 9600baud at 1MHz)

##############################################################
# Add the new board to boards.txt (normally located at "C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr"
# The *.bootloader.* etries only matters if you want to program bootloader (and fuses) from Arduino IDE. 
# See http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc (select Atmega328p) for interpretation of fuse values and how 
# extended fuses are written in different applications (07h in Arduino IDE = FFh in Atmel studio).
##############################################################

apm96.name=APM Optiboot internal 1MHz noBOD 9600baud

apm96.upload.tool=avrdude
apm96.upload.protocol=arduino
apm96.upload.maximum_size=32256
apm96.upload.speed=9600
apm96.bootloader.tool=avrdude
apm96.bootloader.low_fuses=0x62
apm96.bootloader.high_fuses=0xde
apm96.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x07
apm96.bootloader.path=optiboot_v50
apm96.bootloader.file=atmega328_1a.hex
apm96.bootloader.unlock_bits=0x3F
apm96.bootloader.lock_bits=0x2F
apm96.build.mcu=atmega328p
apm96.build.f_cpu=1000000L
apm96.build.core=arduino
apm96.build.variant=standard

Do I still need to add fuses or is that done when the bootloader is burned?

[ahmedadelhosni]

@Cliff-Karlsson

It is already done when you burn the bootloader.

apm96.bootloader.low_fuses=0x62
apm96.bootloader.high_fuses=0xde

[m26872]

@Cliff-Karlsson said:

Ok, finaly succeded in burning the bootloader.

Great news!! With Arduino as ISP? Any particular tips to share?

[Cliff Karlsson]

@m26872 I am fairly sure that all methods work in normal cases but nothing worked for me fore some reason :) .

The only way I could get it to work was when I finaly put the chip in an Arduino Uno clone with 328p Dip(?) socket and connected an USBtiny ISP to the ISCP of that Uno. It took just a couple of seconds and then it was done :).

I flashed like 6-7 ships right away with bootloader and blink-sketch just for fun. Biggest problem now is to get the damn chip in/out of the sockets without bending any legs. But I ordered a chip extractor to remedy that problem (in 4-6 weeks :()

[m26872]

@Cliff-Karlsson
:thumbsup:

To get the ICs out from the DIP socket, I just use a small screw driver (2-3mm) and gently push it all the way under from one side only. And of course, don't push in the IC to hard to begin with.

[bjacobse]

@Cliff-Karlsson
You shall buy Textool ZIF socket. not sure which fits your Arduino, If you at some point get's lazy (Solder less, and accept to use a little more space) and use Arduino Pro Mini then textool 224-3344 ZIF will be your friend