My Slim 2AA Battery Node

[Cliff Karlsson]

Ok, finaly succeded in burning the bootloader. Now comes next part. Fuses and lockbits, I have no idea what this means but is this what I need to do?

avrdude -C ../etc/avrdude.conf -c usbasp -B5 -p ATmega328P -U lfuse:w:0x62:m -U hfuse:w:0xDE:m -U efuse:w:0x07:m -U lock:w:0x2F:m

[meddie]

oh, yes! And you have to be carefully with them, because to set the fuses wrong, can destroy your µcontroller

[meddie]

if you look to message Nr 179 you will find my bootloader and the correct fuses for this. But its a 1MHz Bootloader and the fuses too.
Dont use it if you want to run it at 8 MHz.

[bjacobse]

Web-based fuse calculator
A different way of evaluating fuses is presented at this web page:
http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc

At the bottom I inserted your fuses.
Translation:
Divide by8-> if your mcy board uses 8Mhz, then you now use 1Mhz Clock (Good this enables that you now can use a lower voltage down to 1,9V)
SPI is enabled, then you can program your mcu with FTDI cable
BOD mcu will not power down mcu when you have a low voltage (So you can use down to 1,9V)
I write 1,9Volt since this is the lowest voltage your NRF24L01+ can use for operation

[Cliff Karlsson]

Sorry for asking the same questions over and over but I have just used the files linked at the top of this thread.

This is the bootloader that I used:

atmega328_1a.hex (Optiboot for 9600baud at 1MHz)

##############################################################
# Add the new board to boards.txt (normally located at "C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr"
# The *.bootloader.* etries only matters if you want to program bootloader (and fuses) from Arduino IDE. 
# See http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc (select Atmega328p) for interpretation of fuse values and how 
# extended fuses are written in different applications (07h in Arduino IDE = FFh in Atmel studio).
##############################################################

apm96.name=APM Optiboot internal 1MHz noBOD 9600baud

apm96.upload.tool=avrdude
apm96.upload.protocol=arduino
apm96.upload.maximum_size=32256
apm96.upload.speed=9600
apm96.bootloader.tool=avrdude
apm96.bootloader.low_fuses=0x62
apm96.bootloader.high_fuses=0xde
apm96.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x07
apm96.bootloader.path=optiboot_v50
apm96.bootloader.file=atmega328_1a.hex
apm96.bootloader.unlock_bits=0x3F
apm96.bootloader.lock_bits=0x2F
apm96.build.mcu=atmega328p
apm96.build.f_cpu=1000000L
apm96.build.core=arduino
apm96.build.variant=standard

Do I still need to add fuses or is that done when the bootloader is burned?

[ahmedadelhosni]

@Cliff-Karlsson

It is already done when you burn the bootloader.

apm96.bootloader.low_fuses=0x62
apm96.bootloader.high_fuses=0xde

[m26872]

@Cliff-Karlsson said:

Ok, finaly succeded in burning the bootloader.

Great news!! With Arduino as ISP? Any particular tips to share?

[Cliff Karlsson]

@m26872 I am fairly sure that all methods work in normal cases but nothing worked for me fore some reason :) .

The only way I could get it to work was when I finaly put the chip in an Arduino Uno clone with 328p Dip(?) socket and connected an USBtiny ISP to the ISCP of that Uno. It took just a couple of seconds and then it was done :).

I flashed like 6-7 ships right away with bootloader and blink-sketch just for fun. Biggest problem now is to get the damn chip in/out of the sockets without bending any legs. But I ordered a chip extractor to remedy that problem (in 4-6 weeks :()

[m26872]

@Cliff-Karlsson
:thumbsup:

To get the ICs out from the DIP socket, I just use a small screw driver (2-3mm) and gently push it all the way under from one side only. And of course, don't push in the IC to hard to begin with.

[bjacobse]

@Cliff-Karlsson
You shall buy Textool ZIF socket. not sure which fits your Arduino, If you at some point get's lazy (Solder less, and accept to use a little more space) and use Arduino Pro Mini then textool 224-3344 ZIF will be your friend

[rsachoc]

Hi all, I'm seeing replies, but I'm not sure if any are aimed at my question? I think not?

[m26872]

@rsachoc
I've started a new thread aimed at your question. I'll soon delete much of the content in the post you based your question on and refer to the new thread instead.

[meddie]

it would be nice when a atsha204 a an a flash rom where placed to pcb for signing and ota

[m26872]

@meddie I don't use any of it myself yet, but I know it's only a matter of time until they'll be needed. I think a add-on board to all already existing nodes would be my personal priority then, but new users would prefer it on-board of course and only populate if needed. I'll put on my not yet posted future requests list. (I remember top-side labels are also wanted.) A thing to remember though, is that my Slim Node design is a concept was a lean and simplicity concept, without preparations for maximum flexibility etc.

As I've said earlier - if anyone like to do their own Slim Node design, you're very welcome. And if you share it, it's even better.

[GertSanders]

@m26872: slowly getting there: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3043/new-nrf24l01-smd/14

[meddie]

What i like on this node is the great idea with the casing. To use a cable duct is a great idea. We have wooden windows and i found in a diy market cable ducts in wooden look
like this:

The Problem is that the size is 15x15 mm outside. inside the pcb can be max. 13 mm.

[m26872]

@meddie I think 15x15 is very common and should be to prefer, but if I remember correct there's not enough space for AA batteries, or is there?

[m26872]

@GertSanders Good job! If you go the SMD way I think a lot could be done. Perhaps matching AAA width? Leave some (only few) SMD pads open for sensor connection, no proto area, etc.

[meddie]

oh, yes. You have right, the battery fits in it, but its a little bit too big so i cant close the cover. Damn i didnt try it before.
ok the i have to look for a graeter duct.

[AWI]

Currently this is my favorite board. Minimal size, traditional components and just enough breadboard space. A few variations:
Soldered an 8 mHz resonator (a 'crystal' which does not need the capacitors) for a more stable clock.

Soldered a 3.3v LDO (662k) under the radio to have it powered with a rechargeable Lipo (4.1V max) battery. And added a voltage divider to measure the actual battery voltage.

With a SMD version of the radio. Needs some creative soldering...

Compared to an other favourite ( @GertSanders )

It would even be better if the smd radio could be soldered on the board. Kicad is giving me a headache so if anybody wants to volunteer with a panelized design.... (I will reward you with a free batch of 'dirty' boards, just drop me a pm)